Rare

LoL, well i tryed my old account and it works now Id like to keep this account, mods can delete
"AdonaiRustler" because i only made that account because this one wouldnt work.

kingrustler

i was noticing that before you posted.

RC_Diablo

No Ive hit stuff with the tire all the time and never broke the bellcrank I think it IS that the rest of you truck is so tough it transfers the force to the weakest link trust me if the bellcrank was that weak I would have broke it by now like today I had to knock on this guys door to get him to back up so I could get my rusty out from under the tire (This is when the ears on my servo broke off) I hit the tire at full speed the truck was slammed to the ground bottomed out and the RPM bumper bent over touching the upper chassis and before that I hit a curb with the right wheel at full throttle and the rustler apparently thought it was a UFO becuase it flew half way across the yard spining in the air

Rare

WoW.

RC_Diablo

Yeah but I just got her running again I forgot I had a extra spur that came with it when I bought it lol also had to replace king pins and bend my RPM bumber back lol but now shes ready to go head on tommorow once again

Rare

Glad to hear that! Wish i could say the same.

MONSTARUSTA

I'm Planning on getting aluminum a-arms sortly and I was wondering if you used standard length rear arms, and extended front could you use front wheels all way around and get a truck with equal width? Because then I could rotate tires and still use the mip cvds I just bought!

Rare

you could do that, i beleive it would be the same with front and rear. Remember, you will have to lengthen the camber links in the front.

Dudelive

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXKMF0&P=ML

Wondering if these are the adjustable camber links for the rustler, will be used for backyard running. Oh by the way not "nitro"

Thanks
Dudelive

Rare

I believe those are too short, unless you can get them to extend to 77mm. Remember the front stock camber links are 77mm long and the rear is 90mm

MONSTARUSTA

I've seen a few jatos at the local track. (closest track anyway[:@]) and their arms are pretty long and they are very different from the rusty. Thier for from what I saw I'd say their to long.

P.S. my rusty wasn't their to compair them to though

badykstra

I just bought a used rustler for my son ( I have one to of course!) I can't figure out how to set the xl-1 esc. Can someone please help me out?

RC_Diablo

SETTING NEUTRAL CONTROL


The neutral is like centering a servo set your throttle trim in the middle (zero) then take a small screw driver and adjust the plastic neutral screw till the LED goes out neither red or green BUT MAKE SURE YOU DONT TURN THE SCREWS MORE THAN A HALF TURN in either direction


SETTING PROPORTIONAL CONTROL

After setting neutral control pull your trigger to full throttle and adjust the proportional controls so the motor runs at its fastest speed once again dont turn the screw more than half a turn



When the throttle is pulled a green light should emit from the LED and red when in reverse if this is oppisite then reverse your throttle servo on your Transmitter

jasonharding

Just bought a load of upgrades for my Rusty and its amazing now! People slag the Rustler off saying its no racing car and to get it up to racing standard takes alot of time and money but hey, thats the best part. Hasnt cost me a huge deal but its great when all the work and fine tuning pays off. Racing cars is a hobby, like stamp collecting (although far more exciting!) What would be the fun in collecting stamps if you bought the whole collection on your first day!!?? Thats why i think buying a Rustler is better than getting a losi or something because you can make it unique and as you gradually upgrade it keeps getting better and better over time.

The upgrades i have are:

LRP A1 Pro Automatic Speedo
Reedy Pulse 13T Triple
HPI Super Radial Road Tyres
Aluminium Idler
Pro Ball Diff (cheap on ebay!)
Metal yokes (i read CVD's actually make the car slower)
Slipper Clutch
Chrome RPM Rims (look amazing, proper 'PIMP MY RIDE' style but one clip or knock and all the chrome paint falls off and they look crap! Very dissopointed)
RPM Bearing Holders
Larger Pro Bearings
Chevy Silverado Shell
Deans Connectors
4x3000 & 2x3300 GP Batteries
Dremeled wings off completely and mounted speedo on old speedo mount and reciever above steering servo. So much lighter and looks like a super charged Pede!)

Car runs great now and so quick. My mate just got a Kyosho nitro car with a GX-12 engine (i think thats what there called). Are these cars fast? Anyone think my spec will beat him? I sure hope so!

Couple of questions if anyone can help.

1. Can someone suggest the right gearing for my car? I know people say keep trying but i dont have the money to buy a load of different pinions and experiment. At the moment i have an 18t pinion with an 84t spur, coupled with a 13t tripple motor. The motor is roasting after just a minute! Could some one suggest some gearing with the 84t spur or an 87t spur as these are the only ones i have. I just need some recomendations on pinions to use with such a high powered motor.

2. When my car gets far away, like not too far, it kind of keeps cutting out and jolting, like its switching itself on and off quickly. This loses alot of the speed and control and is very annoying. Ive tried different recievers, transmitters, 2 different speed controllers and different motors and i keep getting the same problem. Why could this be? I read somewhere that having capacitors on the motor may help. Ive even positioned my speedo away from my reciever and still no luck. Its like its getting interference but i dont know why. Any suggestions?

3. One more thing, sorry to go on! I read that you can widen the front wheels so there further out, giving more/better control. How do i do this, i cant remember where i read about it. A link or description would be great.

I'll post some pics soon as my shell is finished being painted,

Cheers!

kingrustler

you are over geared go to this page [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/gearwizard.cfm]gear wizard[/link] and follow the directions and try inputting different size pinions till you get one where the roll out is close to 0.00 as possible . you will need to know the transmissions ratio and it is 2.72 also measure you tires from top to bottom and put that in the tire box then just start putting in pinions till you get close to 0.00 under 0.00 will have more torque over will have more speed .

as for the starting and stopping that is due to am radio try an FM radio that should help . or you can try one of the spread spectrum ones out some are real reasonable. check ebay for some thing like this Spectrum DX2 DSM 2CH Radio System they are like 169.00 and will have a lot better range . or just don't drive so fare .


the wider stance will help a lot i use the trick that the guys use on the stamped i will post the link in a minute OK . the one i used was the hpi nitro rush a arm conversion . there is one made by fast lane also and it is aluminum . you can do the hpi nirto rush front arm conversion for about 20. bucks you will need new turn buckles also .when you do the conversion . any way i will post the link to the how to on the widening of the rustler .[link=http://www.inadad.com/wpede.shtml] wide pede or wide rustler same [/link]

[link=http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=257963]this one to same guy [/link]
hope this helps good luck

MONSTARUSTA

Jason I cut the sides of the chassis off my rusty too. I also think It looks great expecially after being cleaned up with a dremal. The only down side is the chassis flex from side to side and you don't really notice a difference other than the wheels are on the ground more(the back two any way)hehehehe

Also the 13turn triple doesn't have enough torque to run in a rusty. The basic method for judging gearing in a rusty is two teeth lower on the pinion than the motors turns. Therefore no lower than a 14 turn single or double motor should be used with the stock 87tooth pinion.

jasonharding

Cheers for your replies, some usful stuff there and thanks kingrustler, i'll have a bash at the widening!

Monstarusta, how do u mean the motor has too much torque? If i change the spur surely i'll be ok wont i and stick in an 11t pinion maybe? I cant really afford a new motor so i need to work out a solution with the one i have, and yeah, the front end is so light if i didnt have the slipper clutch i think i might take off!

mtucker

Sounds like fun with the upgrades. I am about to buy a new rustler for very similar mods.... and a brushless setup. My first one has been great. The screws on the bottom side are partially gone from all the bashing.
I noticed the same thing. Once the "chrome is gone" you are left with a grey/white plastic underneath. I tried the white RPM rims and they hold up much better since scratches and dings stay white.

If you don't have any capacitors on your motor, then adding caps will likely make it work. I am not familar with the Reedy motors, but I looked at a picture of one on Tower Hobbies and it looks like it needs the capacitors soldered on by hand (some motors come with surface mount caps already on). I started having problems with a RC plane of mine glitching all of the sudden. After I poked around, I saw one side of one of the capacitors had come loose from a crash. Once I soldered it back on, it was trouble free again.
AM systems really aren't that bad (its not like AM and FM music radios). There was a good explanation of this on Peter Berg's webpage (Berg that sold to Castle Creations), but unfortunately that information is gone. Use three capacitors (case to +, case to -, and + to -). Capacitors in the 1000pF to 1uF range should help a lot.

Matt

MONSTARUSTA

I didn't say it had to much it has to little. A 13turn triple is an extremly bad motor for off-road or any off-road truck because its slow at accelerating compaired to a single or double this causes the motor to work at a lower rpm more often therefore causing heat problems.

jasonharding

Thanks mtucker, i'll try adding some capacitors. I just looked at the price of fm radio systems and wow! Hopefully i wont need to stretch to that. My mate has a little tamiya with a standard 540 motor and am reciever/transmitter and his car can go for miles. Can the faster motor generally cause interferance then? Maybe i might just buy a new motor, say a 14T as it also seems i cant gear this 13T Tripple one. Any suggestions on a good 14turn motor? Im after as much speed as possible without going brushless (I want to beat my mates nitro gx10!)

jasonharding

Oh ok monstarustler, cheers. So you suggest a 14T motor. Any suggestions on what type/brand? I run a bit of off road but mainly onroad. Would i then couple that with a 12t pinion and 87t spur?

MONSTARUSTA

Yes I'd suggest a 12tooth pinion and a 87 tooth spur. (At least how I gear mine) I'd suggest a Reedy or Trinity motor. I'd pick a Reedy Flash modified 14turn double because It's cheaper and still got all the Reedy quality.

Also has anyone else heard about the MIP CVD's slowing the rusty up?

kingrustler

I did not say AM is bad. just that they dont have the range of fm or digital . i still use am radio on my rustler and am fine. i only have problems when i drive to where i can bearly see it . which you can not drive what you can't see any way so i just turn around.before that point. any way for fast brushless is the way to go . the low turn motors you are going to get are going to need maintence to keep in top running shape .

with my brushless setup i run any where from 15 tooth pinion to 25 tooth pinion with a veriaty of spur gears 78,81,84,87and90 with no real problems . when i want to spank a jato i run 78 spur and 25 tooth pinion . they dont catch up till well in to there second gear . mind you i dont leave it that over geared for long at all unless it is cold out side. even then i only do it for about 1 battery pack then let it cool .mostly i run 19 pinion and 78 spur with the brushless . lots of fun i run with only nitro powered trucks cause thats what all my freinds have . the rustler has no problem running with the t-maxx,jato, or revos that my freinds have . i do have to watch out for the revo and t-maxx as when they hit you at full speed things break .the jato is weak if it hits me it breaks . [>:]

Rare

The CVD's is a waste of money.

jasonharding

The Jang put CVD's on his car and said he actually noticed the responce was worse so reverted back to the yokes and plastic drive shafts. Ive upgraded to metal yokes because ive had my plastic yokes break on me like 3 times. Its very annoying. Also when you screw in the grub screws on the plastic yokes its very easy to thread them if u over tighten them as there only made of plastic. The metal yokes are definately and improvement and wont ever require replacing.

I think im going to grab myself a 14T double motor as im worried my 13T tripple is going to bklow up soon. Its impossible to gear using that gear wizard chart. Hopefully that'l fix my interference problems too if i get one with capacitors on it.