Vaderbxman

Oh comeon, this place is usually teeming with activity. Here, I'll try to revive this thread.

BEARBYSR

Hey, nice truck, time to get some dirt on it. Are you gonna race it with the mamba?

old geezer

Sweet looking truck Vaderbxman. I like the paint job. NICE. It looks brand new. No dings or scratches on it and the wheels aren't chipped. What springs do you have on it? I tried the balloons on the outside of springs to keep the dirt out but thought they were interfering with the springs causing a coil bind. When racing I'm so concerned about weight that I didn't want to cary 4 balloons. That might sound funny but on a small scale it's big. How was the performance with that motor and how did the truck hold up. Any pictures of it in action?
Thank for posting the pics.

Vaderbxman

I would race the Mamba, if we had anyone show up at my track with a 1/10th scale truck. It's all 1/8th racing down here. I did get some dirt on it, but very little, because I broke a toe-in block on my car 3 minutes after I got there. Pity.

As for what springs I run: I use Team Losi XXX-t shocks, because I was tired of leaky shocks. The springs are just big enough for me to run a balloon between the shock body and the spring. The balloon only interferes when the shock is fully compressed, and I actually like that it does that.

I wish I had more run time at the track to see how the motor and ESC would hold up, because I've just been making speed runs in my backyard. It's not a good measure of how the motor handles it because it's pretty tall grass, but it fares well. I hooked the ESC to my comp yesterday and set the timing to low, trying to get the temps down. When I get a good stint of bashing in at our track in town, I'll let you guys know how hot or cool it ran.

As for action shots: I do have some, but they are blurry. I can't blame my dad because it's hard to take a picture with a fixed focus and not moving the camera and anticipating my movements. I'll post the best one I have of it.

XPFTP

coflex works great also for shocks .. here is a link to show u want it looks lie most local drug stores should carry it .. http://www.exmed.net/dept.asp?dept_i...FRqWGgod0A32Zg

you would want the width to fit ur shock top to bottom.. cut a piace long enough to warp around 2 times then 2 thiner strips for sort of a lock on top n bottom ... works great and is lite .. and it adheres to itself as the link states ..

here is the site i got the idea from ..
http://www.rc-resources.net/guides/shock-wrap.shtml

BEARBYSR

Hey,that's a great idea.We use that stuff at our shop to wrap around fingers when handling sharp, small parts.It's tuff stuff and what's nice is it sticks well without leavin glue residue on everything.

cheech4

nice paint job there, and yes you should get that vader dirty, lol. hey you mentioned broken toe block, so you have the alloy chassis plate??? if you do get the toe block brace kit from positive RC, RAZ54 is the man to get you the kit.. it will make your toe block problem go away.

BEARBYSR

I agree,best money I spent on the vader,alloy chassi and the brace kit.

Vaderbxman

What is it exactly? I remember it looking like a front hingepin brace, but I'm not 100% sure. I've broken 2 total, but it's taken a year to break both, and they went one right after the other.

Thanks for the compliments on the body!

cheech4

the brace kit is basically 2 custom made pieces of alluminum that connect the rear toeblocks to the hinge pins front and back, if you look at the design right now, the toe blocks are seperated, with the brace kit its like having one piece cuz its all connected making it alot stronger...

Vaderbxman

Cool! I need to check that out.

Hey Raz, shoot me a PM, I wanna know how much it costs.

loriding69

thanks for the hints on upgrades. i will try and find the posted comments on the tranny upgrades. i recently put a LRP Brushless System and airtronics servo in my bx pro and it's nice and quick. painted a new body for the bx and man do i suck at painting. here is a pic of my wife holding both the newly painted bx and the st.

Vaderbxman

Nice ride. And about the paint job: It just takes practice.

loriding69

thanks

Vaderbxman

I went back to the track again today. I got ALOT of wheel time in, but didn't drain a battery. I drove for about 2 gas tanks with my dad's turmoil (about 9 minutes) of driving as fast as the track would let me. I had a couple bits where the car sat still for up to 5 minutes while I helped my dad look for a missing part, and trying to get a temperature reading from my ESC and motor.

I didn't drain it because my spur gear is about to self-detonate. I need to find some longer screws so I can use the metal supr gear I bought so long ago.

My ESC was about 150 and my motor was about 140 at it's hottest I temped it at.

rcmaster103

Haven't been here for awhile. My Evader is in pieces. I stripped the alum. idler and so I still haven't fixed, not sure what I want to do yet, I'll probably get a new gear case with a B2 diff. and maybe a new alum. idler. I shouldn't use all metal gears, but while it works, it works well. lol I need to clean my Evader, too.

vagebadger

This is a huge thread....i have searched around a bit.....but I'll just ask..

I bought the evader in 2003...i love it. I'm just trying to better understand all the aspects of it.....of electric (i have switched to nitro lately) i enjoy the plug and play ease of electric....but still love the smell of nitro in the morning. I'm trying to match the speed of my xxx-nt....but before i spend any $ on the evader....i want to get your thoughts...

What are the best gears to use. 78T, 81T, 86T or 88T More teeth = faster top end?

and what of the pinion gear is the 20T vs 23T the only one?


I have the stock 20T motor...it seems to work fine. What results can i get from a 19 -18....so on
Brushless just seems too expensive....is the $ really worth the results?

and finally the battery. I have switched from NICd Stock 6-cell 7.2 1500 mAh to a Piranha 6 cell 2000 mAh. I recently got a good deal on some 6 cell 4200 mAh....they melted my motor...yeah...the motor started smoking...and stopped working. So i guess 4200 mAh is too much....

Is there a max mAh.....do motors/ESCs have a max mAh?

Thanks, I know its a lot of questions....

VAGE

Vaderbxman

It's not that motors or ESC's have maximum mAh they can take: It's that they are putting out electricity for so long. I had that problem with my new 3800 DTX batteries and a tired old 15T I had.

Brushless is expensive, but worth every penny. Recently, brushless technology has been getting cheaper, and you can pick up a system for about 190 dollars.

As for gearing: The ratio is more dependent on the pinion than the spur gear.

vagebadger

gotcha....i noticed the smoke after about 15 minutes......I was thinking "wow..these new batteries are great"...then the motor blew up...lol


So whats the best way to increase overall acceleration and top speed....can you have both or is it a give and take.

thanks

cheech4

few things you can do, one thing depends on your ESC can it handle lower turn motors, some great motors are 19t orion element, 19t checkpoint money motor. the orion formula motors are great, if your ESC can handle low turn like 10 turns then i like the 12t check point motors and the orion revolution.

another great way to get some serious power and not break the bank is buy the NOVAK XBR 8.5 brushless, that should keep up if not beat your nitro. spend a little more you can buy a Mamba 6900 like i have and reach a top speed 48 mph gunned.. i usually gear my evader 18/86 or 18/87, that set up will get you really nice acceleration and good top end.. you can also gear depending on motor it 20/87 if you looking for nice top end but with some sacrifice torque.

vagebadger

i have the stock Duratrax Sprint ESC...can that handle a 19T or lower?


If i upgrade to any brushless motor i also have to upgrade to a capable ESC...right? They probably come as a set...

Can both brushless motors you mentioned use my pile of NImH battries i have...or is LIPO the option

cheech4

you can get away with 19t motor on that ESC nothing lower, so i suggest a good 19t spec motor like the 2007 orion element or the checkpoint money motor or even the kamodo dragon.

as far as brushless yes you need a special ESC to run brushless motors, but its sooooo worth it, why cuz there NO maintenance, no brushes to replace no coms to cut, no springs, just clean it once in a while and once in a blue while lube the bearings. but depending how much money your willing to spend you can definetly can buy a system that will smoke a nitro, i know ALL my 3 working RC can all smoke a nitro. And my X-ray T2 can smoke a jato 3.3

brenthampton79

My tranny on my evader pro seems likes it is stripping for some reason, I have replaced both the diff gear and the idler gear. The Truck still grinds and it is not the spur and pinion gear (they were turning as the tranny was grinding and popping) I have the slipper clutch really loose and it still does it. Any ideas???

cheech4

check your cvd's for binding, tighten up your slipper maybe its slipping to much, make sure your diff is tightenened properly under specs, which is tighten all the way and then back it out 1/8 turn

chaman

Hey guys! Im an Evader fanthat recently got banned (LOL!) from the Traxxas forum after I post that the Evader handled better than the Rustler!! Would belive some people?? I have the Evader and a Rustler VXL with Velineon brushless sytem. That thing flies! But sadly the rest of the car cant keep up with it. The Tranny is bombproof but the car han dles poorly compared with the Evader's stabilty. These FACTS did not suited well with the arrogants mods there...!

Anyways i have a Velineon system that will go to the Evader soon. I already upgraded the idler gear to aluminum and i think I will go like this. Also the diff has all carbide balls.

What you think?