Crash7772

Well I beat the Revo 2.5 with my modded Evader Pro. I should be able to have a video posted when I get home from work.

SpecialEd

Hi, guys! Okay...so...the new 12T motor finally ate the stock tranny so it's time for a complete rebuild. I think it's just the tranny but I haven't yet taken it apart so don't know for sure. I have read every page of this thread to get the right info and am now more confused than ever [sm=drowning.gif] Since my net goal is to have a bad-arse Evader I am taking every opportunity (such as a trashed tranny) to make it better. Can anyone tell me just what I'll need to build a bulletproof tranny and diff for the Evader ST? I'm not worried about cost, I just want to set this up so that it gives me the fewest problems. The motor is a Trinity D6 12T Double Modified and the ESC is a Duratrax Intellispeed 12T Reversible.

Thanks!!!
John

raz54

You need a metal idler gear for sure and IF you can find one a metal diff gear. The metal diff gear worth it's weight in gold now cause they are no longer made. It was the one for the associated B2. Since you proabably won't find one just get a couple spare stock diff gears and the metal idler and make sure the slipper clutch is not too tight, that will help save the diff gear.

SpecialEd

Thanks, raz. Hopefully I'll be able to track down the elusive B2 metal diff gear. I do love tinkering with the ol' Vader so wouldn't be totally upset if I had to take it apart occasionally to replace a plastic gear.

Do you have any preference between the standard diff balls and the carbide diff balls? I suspect that because they're 3-4 times the cost of the stock diff balls that the carbides are probably better. However, I believe I've read on this forum that there are some who believe they don't add enough value to warrant the higher cost.

I used the help I found here to put a new body on my Vader. I attached stock E-Maxx body posts to the shock towers to get the height I needed (was too impatient to go out and buy posts specifically meant for the job). The net result is not the most beautiful setup but it's a start. I learned that the HPI Baja Bug body isn't exactly the best choice for the job as the wheelbase is too short given the limitations imposed by the body posts.

I am currently working on an HPI M3 body to replace the Bug body. It looks like it's going to be a much better fit as the wheelbase is identical to the stock body. It is also the same width so I think it'll work better. However, we won't know for sure until it's actually mounted. Here's a couple of pics of the Bugvader...

CustomTamiyas4Life

My Feedback: (34)

I'm luvin that bug body!

I was just messing sround and bashing at my track and i was about 30 feet away from the side of an old jump that i don't use andymore and i drove right into it full speed and it ended up being like a 80* angle and i was getting 4 feet of air off of like a foot tall jump. JUst put new brushes int he qm so it rips!

duneslider

If you find were you can get a metal diff gear let us all know because I have been searching for weeks with no luck. However, the nylon diff gears made for the B2 are more durable than the duratrax ones. You could go that route and if 12t is as low as you go I bet you would be okay. I don't think you would toast many of them with just a 12t. If you start going to high end brushless and below 12t you will trash all but the metal gears. I would imagine 12t is plenty fast though.

I have been doing some more research on the carbide diff balls. They will last a lot longer than the regular ones. I have heard guys running brushless say they have had them for over a year and they are still good. If you aren't running a hot motor the regular diff balls will last a long time, however, if you start running fast brushless and lower turn motors you will find the regular balls aren't good enough.

That BUG body looks pretty good. I kind of like it.

Duneslider

raz54

[quote]ORIGINAL: SpecialEd

Thanks, raz. Hopefully I'll be able to track down the elusive B2 metal diff gear. I do love tinkering with the ol' Vader so wouldn't be totally upset if I had to take it apart occasionally to replace a plastic gear.

Do you have any preference between the standard diff balls and the carbide diff balls? I suspect that because they're 3-4 times the cost of the stock diff balls that the carbides are probably better. However, I believe I've read on this forum that there are some who believe they don't add enough value to warrant the higher cost.








Good luck finding one. The only way I got one was from a very good friend. When I do install the metal diff gear I will be putting in the carbide balls. From what I've heard they not only last longer they are smoother.

Crash7772

Here we go......Revo 2.5 VS Evader Pro

http://www.zippyvideos.com/523193317...untitled_0008/

CustomTamiyas4Life

My Feedback: (34)

Could u host that at putfile in realplayer format maybe?[]

cheech4

ok just odered my toe blocks 2 sets,a blue aluminum heat sink and a Team Orion Revolution 13T Double Modified Motor. i already installed a robinson racing 87 t spur gear and a aluminum idler gear from the nitro evader. How fast do u think the evader will be ???? just with these mods....?

4 stroken ron

My Feedback: (29)

OK, Ya beat the Revo. But that was nothing but an acceleration contest. Not really a fair fight against the Revo is it?
BTW someone needs to tune that Revo so it comes out of the hole better.
Cool vid.
Ron

raz54

Good going there Crash772.

SpecialEd, I love that Bug body. It reminds me of the real bug I once had.

Crash7772

I think the Revo is overgeared but we are planning on doing a long run sometime. He was only getting about 15' in second gear before we shut down. It's tough though because the electric just jumps off the line. We did a few more runs but even with longer distance he didn't seem to catch up much. Also I'm only running a 6-cell Venom pack right now. I was looking into getting some better batteries or maybe even a 7 cell for brute speed. Keep in mind this guy has been talking smack for weeks now and most of my work said I didn't stand a chance period. But we all agree the Revo needs tuning work.

Crash7772

The link won't open for you? If not I will look into another host.

CustomTamiyas4Life

My Feedback: (34)

I have alotta trouple with vids...usually all i can view is realplayer putfile vids.

I'm undergoing a huge tranny rebuild...no new parts, but alotta cleaning and stuff. I was wondering why my car felt like it had auto-brakes...2 bearings were terribly seized and i can't get one of them off.

Anyone got an idea on how to get off a stuck bearing on a topshaft? It's the bearing on the side without the output shaft.

raz54

If you have the top shaft out of the trans you can try heating the bearing.

CustomTamiyas4Life

My Feedback: (34)

How do i heat it? I only got a hairdryer to heat it and it's too late.(parent are asleep)

CustomTamiyas4Life

My Feedback: (34)

Anyone know an alternative to the screws that came with the gear cover!? I'm going driving in sand sunday(my first time EVER) and i need to seal those up badly! I'm probably gonna get around 15 feet of air...a 5 foot mound of sand is calling my name...

bIGmiK

Nah hair dryer wont put enough heat out I doubt. Try a heat gun or an oxy (dont hold the oxy to close).

CustomTamiyas4Life

My Feedback: (34)

I have neither.

raz54

Heat it on your stove and don't tell us you don't have a stove (lol). if it's electric put the bearing right on the burner. If it's gas try to hold it so only the bearing is in the flame. Then once it's heated place the end of the shaft in a glass of water but don't put the bearing in the water. Then the shaft will cool faster and shrink and the beaing should slide off (with pliars).

cheech4

i dont know about that, that revo sounded tuned

4 stroken ron

My Feedback: (29)

Nah, a well tuned Revo would wheely itself to death in that situation. Also, it had some hesitation when he pulled the trigger. And it needs a different clutch bell and spur for a drag race, and a close ratio trans, and a center diff. Getting crazy now isn't it?
Ron

cheech4

ok really quick, in a show of posts. Just curious how many rc cars or trucks, nitro or electric does every body here have... i had 3, i had 2 nitro and my electric evader pro. now im down to only the pro sold off the others... but now im thinking should i get another??

Evader_Newbie

18th scale cars are always good for indoors........

Question!!! What use does a sway bar for an evader do???? Any pros or cons????