CrustyNoodle

I'm nearing completion of my DB-01 (just need to paint it) however I have previously built one for my 7 year old - he loves it.
The weekend before last we were up at the Outlaws place with Ang's DB-01 and my Revo. The inevitable happened, and we ended up colliding head on. The Revo emerged unscathed but it managed to break the top off Ang's DB-01 front shocks - one very upset boy!

I said I'd make it up to him by buying him some new shocks (he said he wanted metal ones so they wouldn't break next time). Reading on this forum, I got the impression that people were not too happy with the 3Racing shocks and I thought the price of the Tamiya ones was quite excessive (esspecially as I had to get two sets - one for him and one for me ) I decided I'd take the gamble and try something different.....

Yeah Racing have a large selection of shocks so I just went to RCMart and chose some sets that I figured would fit - you buy them in pairs and just select the length you need. It turns out that they actually have two designs of shock the cheaper ones are the [link=http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-damper-yeah-racing-alloy-70mm-buggy-bigfoot-dp0004bu-p-20083.html]70mm DP-0004[/link] for the front and [link=http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-damper-yeah-racing-alloy-90mm-buggy-bigfoot-dp0006bu-p-20085.html]90mm DP-0006[/link] for the rear. The more (slightly) expensive ones are the [link=http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-damper-yeah-racing-70mm-buggybigfoot-2pcs-dp1004ti-p-25328.html]70mm DP-1004TI[/link] for the front and the [link=http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-damper-yeah-racing-90mm-buggybigfoot-2pcs-dp1006ti-p-25330.html]90mm DP-1006TI[/link] for the rear.
As I couldn't decide which ones to get, I decided to get a set of each with the idea being that the more bling ones (the blue DP-0004's) would be good for Ang and less bling ones I'd use for my DB-01. While I was at it, I also ordered a [link=http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-batterylipo-cb0139-p-27871.html]charger and some batteries[/link] for myself.

The package arrived a couple of days ago so I thought I'd share my experience (remember though I haven't tried the TRF shocks nor am I an expert on shocks):
[link=http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-damper-yeah-racing-alloy-70mm-buggy-bigfoot-dp0004bu-p-20083.html]DP-0004 and DP0006:[/link]
These are quite a good looking unit that come with two spring weights both of which are harder than the standard DB-01 springs. the standard rear DB-01 springs fit these units but the front DB-01 spring are too small in diameter. The shock itself is very smooth (they come sans oil) and the piston is a white nylon afair that is a very close fit inside the damper bore. The bottom seal is held in place using a silly little circlip and I found that two of the shocks had bits of seal hanging out the bottom - obviously from a careless assembly - I replaced the damaged o-rings with the standard DB-01 o-rings (two per shock). Filled with oil (35wt front, 30wt rear as a guess) they are an impressively smooth shock. Both front an rear shocks are the perfect lenght for the DB-01 without any need for internal limiters.
[link=http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-damper-yeah-racing-70mm-buggybigfoot-2pcs-dp1004ti-p-25328.html]DP-1004ti and DP-1006ti[/link]
These are a quality looking shock with screw cap on the bottom to hold the seal (only 1 seal but with two nylon guide bushes). The spring diameter on these shocks is the same as the front DB-01 springs and also the same diameter as the TRF option springs (both front and rear), they come with 3 spring weights - all of which are quite a bit harder than the standard DB-01 springs and probably too stiff (but as I said, I am no expert). These units weren't particularly smooth out of the packet (again sans oil) as it seams that the surface finish on the interior isn't as good as the other shocks, also the pistons are a much looser fit in the bore than the other shocks. Once filled with oil (again 35wt front and 30wt rear) they feel very smooth but there is not as much damping as with the others - clearly due to the increased piston clearance (I'd be interested to know what the clearance is like on the TRF shocks). The length of the fronts is perfect but the rears need 1 o-ring under the piston to get the same length as the DB-01 rear shocks.

To mount the shocks you need to use the mounting posts included in the packet and on the front I needed to space these a little to get them to fit perfectly.

I can't comment on their on-track performance as I haven't run them yet and I'd be a bit dubious of my opinion on performance anyhow as I don't think I'd be able to tell the difference between good shock performance and bad. However at this stage, just based on my bench testing, I'd say that I'm pretty pleased with both types. I'd find it hard to choose which type I like better as I think they are both quite good.

Eman77

DoubleDub - congrats on the good racing! I'm always bewildered why racing folks slam Tamiya - after all, they've been around a long time, and build quality stuff. They don't always make race-grade vehicles, but when they do, they are impressive. Glad you showed them what the Durga can do (which isn't even their top of the line 4WD!).

Crusty - I appreciate the comments on the YR shocks. If you can follow up later letting us know how they hold up durability-wise (and how well they hold oil, etc), that would be valuable. Those are well-priced shocks. I'm still running the stockers for now (I'm just a basher).

I do have a set of TRF shocks, that came on my 2WD DT02-MS - and they're fantastic shocks. Very, very smooth. But not being a shock expert either, and just a basher, I doubt I'd spend $70+ on a set (these just happened to come in the kit I got). Wish they were cheaper.

For now, I plan on running the stock plastic Durga ones until they bust.

Ttam Says Blarg

I busted the original within about two weeks by running into a dumpster. I now have the 3Racing and there ok.

malice23

Double-Dub- Thats the best story about the Durga Ive heard yet...I can imagine what those guys were saying when you lined up your stock durga with those b44's to race lol. But screw them man You kicked butt and finished 2nd overall...I know some of those guys went on the tamiya site to see whats up with the DB-01 after that night. Its obviously got the genetics of a champion and can still win and hang witht he best of them. I also have to give you serious credit for your driving skills. To do that you must be really really good.

I bought me some mesh from Home Depot last night...had to buy the whole friggin role of 3 feet but I guess I got plenty more if I need some lol. Still have to paint this body and drill out the holes for the body posts.

I have a question about the wing though....How high did you guys cut the wing? Did you all leave it as high as it came or did you cut it lower?

ElectricGuy007

A wouldnt doubt in the right hands a durga could beat even a B44. I have beat B44's with my 501x.
I mainly got the 501x for the big races, like trophy races. I wanted to see if the 501x would hang
with a predator, but the only guy that has one cant keep it together so he doesnt run it anymore.
He told me at the track "I should of gotten something else because $600 for this wasnt worth it."
I have raced lazer zx5's with my 501x and one hit the jump wrong he hit me so hard I thought I
was broke he broke both of his front A-arms, my car didnt even have a scratch on it.
One guy said I have never seen a 501x walk god before.
I was thinking that's why I payed over 500 dollars, the car is so strong you'll never break it.
I replaced the diff balls with tungsten diff balls and I dont melt pulleys anymore, so I shouldnt have
another issue ever again.

DoubleDub

I want to get a 501x or a 511 next,I am an avid vintage Tamiya collector,and also a loooongtime racer of anything r/c,I normally race the shortcourse class with my SC10.But this whole 4wd buggy thing sucked me in in a big time way!!I don't get to race this week,gotta go on vacation so hopefully I am going to try and buy a new kit to build soon,in the meantime it's Durga time for me at our track!There are at least two guys buying Durgas this week to compete with,I think that is super cool!Do you guys have any input on the 511 or 501?

ElectricGuy007

The one thing I dont like about the 511 is it doesnt come with a body or an undertray, Id buy it if I didnt
already have a 501x WCE. Ive got so many spares that I dont feel like selling it either.

Lanzo

Thanks for the advise. I tightened the rear diff a few turns and the screetching noise has gone. The down side was that to celebrate I took my Durga to my local BMX track to hit some jumps. I went quite late in the day so the light was very low. On the run off from the first jump my Durga stopped dead. I gave it power and it started to disapwer into the ground. I ran over to find it submerged in thick brown mud. Could not see the mud patch in the dim light. Not cool! The ESC was drowned. The whole car fill of mud. Complete rebuild here we come!! Luckily I had not yet installed my brand new 8.5T brushless setup. It was just the stock tamiya esc. So it could have been a lot worse!!

DoubleDub

Do you race the 501? how does it compare to the B44?I "should" get a B44 because the trackside hobby shop carries parts for it and not for the Tamiya,But I like to be the oddball!And I can carry my own parts.

ElectricGuy007

Yes I race the 501x, how does the B44 compare to this is like apples and oranges, both cars drive
very well from the box. The B44 will break it you hit things, whereas the 501x might not ever break,
the B44 has weak front shock shafts, as well as common A-arms do break from time to time, the shock
towers will break if you tend to land upside down several times, whereas I've never landed the 501x upside
down. The B44 drives more aggessive than the 501x, whereas the 501x drives alot smoother due to being belt
drive. My 501x has a front one-way, whereas my B44 doesnt. It's good to have 2 cars to experiment with, and
If I fell like driving one car over the other then I will. My driving has improved and I dont break my B44
anymore, but at first I did because I had to get used to it.
The 501x I've melted 1 pulley and it was user error and not the car, now the car just runs a front one-way.
The belts have shown signs of wear but they have not snapped on me yet. I have about 20 runs on the car.

86waterpumper

I just picked up a 501x worlds edition on tower! They were blowing them out since they have the 511 out. 280 shipped not too bad I don't think! I got the last one they had I think did anyone else pick up one on sale? I have been watching this thread and thought about a durga because I've really had alot of fun with my daughters df03 dark impact, but heck I figured I would end up buying better shocks and a slipper for the durga so by the time I had done that I could have just bought the 501! I agree that the 511 doesn't seem that great of a deal! No wheels, no tires, no bodY and less aluminum parts? HAHA pretty incomplete, the box is rather small :P I know I don't have the car yet, but from reading on oople and other forums i don't really see where the 511 is a huge deal. Im sure it is lighter, and better but the changes are rather small not revolutionary by any means. I'd say the 501 is still a great car and probably tougher!
I know most run brushless motors in the durga and 501, but which brushed motors are a good match? I have a 14x2 checkpoint, a 13x1 and 12x1 pavidis peak motors and then a 9x1 and 9x2 roundwire cobalt...also was curious what tires worked pretty good on the 501?

malice23

Ive had those checkpoint motors and all theyve ever done was destroy my cars due to how aggressive and torquey they are. I love the smooth power delivery of a brushless so ILL Never look back...I do have a trinity copperhead 6t motor just sitting in the original package from YEARS ago that I havent even installed cuz I dont even know what ESC could handle that thing. And if I did use it it would go into an onroad car or something...Either way those brushed motors ofer like 1/3 the runtime of a brushless setup so if you ask me Id go with a brushless anyday. You'll have more fun for a longer period of time and they are more reliable.

On a side note I have completed my Durga and will be posting pics later tonight...Im so pleased with how this thing came out, although I stripped a spur gear last night running it lol. It was my fault though, gear mesh wasnt tight enough and the Mamba melted that spur gear...yes, literally melted it. I was picking out bits of melted plastic till 4am last night. So, Luckily Since I have doubles of everything in the kit I threw in a new spur, tightened my belts and now shes ready to go...This car is amazing. What an ANIMAL. I have it so dialed in right now with all the settings on the mamba max esc and the remote setting ( steering EPA etc..) that I cant wait to race it. Cant wait to hear your reactions after the photo posts! I have the soft spring in the rear and the hards up front. I also, contrary to all your advice, installed the sway bars and I quite like the feel. I installed the soft bars front and rear to experiment with how it handles and I like it way better than without the bars. It just feels more level when turning. The thing has insane grip!

-Eric01-

Hi!

Thanks for the answer. I've looked for some servos in the last time and I think I'll take this servo: [link=http://shop.conrad.at/ce/de/product/206045/PREMIUMLINESERVOMC-620MG-T/SHOP_AREA_19788]MC 620 MG-T[/link]
Very good price and metal gearing. [sm=thumbup.gif]

Eric

ElectricGuy007

Lucky bought the last one huh, yeah they are having a blowout sale on the checkpoint motors too,
30 bucks a pop. Tower does that to get rid of existing stock, the worlds edition might end up being
discontinued soon, that's good because I never planned on selling mine anyways no matter how cheap it gets.
I run full treaded losi pink taper pins on the stock rims and I have a set of the black durga wheels with
proline inside jobs.
I heard proline disconituned the inside jobs too, I cant seem to find them anywhere.

malice23

Here it is guys...

86waterpumper

Yeah I got my trinity cobalts for 15, and my peaks and checkpoints for 20 apiece new, some at stormer hobbies, and one or two off ebay. Brushless is nice, but a v2 endbell brushed motor for 20 bucks isn't bad either! Anyway thanks for the tire tips. I will hunt around and see what is available.
I am sure the 501x worlds is discontinued already, Tamiyausa.com has it on sale as well...so a good deal! If someone is looking and wants to upgrade above a durga on the cheap! I think at tamiyausa the are like 350 with free shipping? I am sure alot here have that much in their durgas for sure. The only thing that kind of worries me is finding spare parts if I run it hard and break it, like the one way I think it is already discontinued, but I'm not going to run it anyway I don't think. I guess just have to hunt ebay if stuff needs replacing. I have to do that with my other tamiyas anyhow as it is :P

Nice looking durga malice! What kind of lipo is that?

malice23

Thanks 86..Intellect 4000mah 20c 7.4v perfect battery. I also cut out the vents and added metal mesh to help with cooling cuz the heat was building up in there. Will post pics w/the vents soon.

Lanzo

Help Please! I can't work this out!!

I was installing my new Brushless ESC and Motor in my Durga, So I had half my car in peices while doing so. My wife bumped the table and knocked one of my ball diffs onto the floor. The impact cracked the pulley. So I finished instaling the motor and esc and ordered a replacement pulley.

Yesterday the pulley arrived. FYI the part I ordered was a "Tamiya 53988 Ball Differential Pulley (37T)" I hope that was the correct one.

I rebuilt the diff with the new pulley. In my hand the diff works fine. I turn the left side clockwise and the right side goes counter clockwise. I turn the right side clockwise and the left side goes counter clockwise. The diff is tightened enough to stop the pulley rotating when the sides are held. Seemed all ok so I installed the new diff in the rear of the car.

Now here is the problem:
(For these tests the car is supported in the center with the wheels off the ground) .

1. As soon as the diff is in the car and has the weight of the drive shaft and wheels on it, the diff does not work as expected.

2. If I rotate the left hand rear wheel by itself, it sometimes rotates the right wheel in the opercite directon (as I would expect) but it also sometimes drives the two front wheels slightly which I would not expect, however If I rotate the rear right wheel by itself it rotates the rear left wheel in the opercite direction as expected.

4. If I gently rotate both the two front wheels together at the same time, in the same direction, I would expect the two real wheels to turn as well, but only the rear left wheel turns, the rear right wheel remains still????

5. (similar to point 4) If I quickly rotate both the two front wheels together at the same time, in the same direction, the rear left wheel rotates at the same speed as the front wheels but the the rear right wheel moves only very slowly.

I thought that the diff was probably too tight so I loosened it, that did not help, so I tried tightening it, that did not work. So I rebuilt the diff from scratch checking each step. That did not work.

I have no idea what the issue could be. Does anyone have any ideas??

Cheers,

Mike

dimblum

Hmm.. If you are still using the kit diff assembly (plastic parts glued to metal diff rings), then one of the rings is probably loose and slipping against the plastic. In this case it appears to be the right rear side..

Other possibilities are:

* You only need a little diff grease to cover both sides of your diff, but if one side is dry then a similar problem could occur since the grease helps the balls to grip the rings

* If the thrust bearing does not turn freely, then the diff action will be compromised

* If the bearing on the right side of the diff is jammed, then the outdrive will drag against the friction and try to spin the left wheel more than the right.

The more common problems deal with the diff being built backwards or the screw being too loose, but it looks like you got that covered.

Hope this helps.

malice23

Ok ran into a slight issue finally after running it for a few days...I have officially stripped 2 spur gears. My mesh was fine with the pinion. Im thinking the problem lies in the slipper clutch nut setting and/or the belt tensioners. How tight are you guys setting the clutch nut? When I checked the spur after it stripped the middle part where the shaft goes into it was melted on one side. I had the slipper on the loose side and not nearly all the way tight...is it supposed to be all the way tightened or a few turns out from full lock? I ordered 2 new spurs on ebay. If its none of those issues then maybe the mamba is eating away the spurs for breakfats lunch and dinner. Maybe I have to tighten it all the way since that motor is powerful? Believe me I have set all the settings on that motor to their loest point and have even lowered the throttle curve to get a more gradual acceleration instead of that typical mamba explosion. feedback would help...dont wanna keep changing the spurs every run.

On a side note the thing jumps amazingly and its very responsive to throttle and brake input. Very high quality item, and for an even crazier story, before the spur stripped, I was handing an RC8T's a-s-s on a platter today going around a few laps on a track me and my friend put together. $600 truggy vs a $200 durga lol. GOD I love this buggy. BRING IT!

Lanzo

Thanks Dimblum,

I will try what you have suggested and let you know how I go.

Better do some stretches to warm up my right arm before I crack out the screwdriver to remove the belt/diff covers for a third time today! Grrr.

Cheers,

Mike

crusadores

Malice,

If you have set the Mamba to be less brutal than it normaly is, i suspect that your sliper is too tight. I tightened to 3.5mm-4mm, almost as indicated in the manual.

"...the middle part where the shaft goes into it was melted on one side"

During assembly, did you use the correct shims? All of the shims? Are the outer bearings evenly seated in the sockets?

Lanzo

Hello Dimblum (Or anyone else who can help),

Dimblum said:
This obviosly indicates that a btter diff is available, I am still using the stock diffs. If i wanted to upgrade from them what are all the parts that I need to do this? Is it the 501X diffs i need? I had a look RCmart and could not find the DB-01 Diff upgrade??

Cheers,

Mike

The Collector1

My Feedback: (2)

501x diff halves, ceramic or carbide bearings, and good diff lube with the stock diff gear and diff rings

Lanzo

Is there somewhere you can get a single packet of ceramic bearings for the DB01 Diff in one pack? Or is it just a case of finding the sizes needed and ordering them individually? When you say replace the ball bearings with ceramic or carbide do you mean the all of it including the 2 enclosed bearings as well as the 12 individual balls and the thrust bearing?

Cheers,

Mike