Tilux

Ya I saw that, but was the diff I needed. Might order it too.

malice23

http://cgi.ebay.com/3Racing-Alum-Dif...d=p3286.c0.m14

Tilux

Sorry, you said it was the diff i needed, not the joint, are you sure about what you told me?

malice23

sorry the diff joint is what u need..check the link and order 2 pairs of those.

Druss

ok, while i'm not doubting you, how does the joint prevent the plastic gear from melting? Less flex so the balls can't get out of the sockets?

Lanzo

Out of interest, regarding the 3 racing aluminium diff joints, If you use these do you still need the stock diff plate washer? Or is the 'diff plate' intergrated into the 3 racing diff half?

Lanzo

Hey also, I have been running on roads/carparks a lot which is destroying the off road stock tyres really quickly and when the front tyres wear down I am getting loads of understeer. Does anyone know of a more ‘hard surface friendly’ tyre without off road spikes that will fit the Durgas stock hubs?

Mike

dimblum

Pro-Line Dirt Hawg tires should be just the ticket.. It's funny that they call them Dirt Hawg's when the tread is really an -all terrain- design.. Its a basher tire that will give excellent tread life if you switch between the street and backyard.. Take a look: http://www.prolineracing.com/c-29-tires.aspx

Use Dirt Hawg I for the rear and Dirt Hawg III for the front.

malice23

I had the same problem of melting diffs on my TA05...which essentially has the same drivetrain...There is more surface area I believe backing that metal ring that covers the balls inside the diff and keeping the balls in place more securely...lol sounds perverted. But ever since I changed to those I stopped having that issue a long time ago. All the stock parts go right into that 3rcing diff joint as they do in the stock joints. I remember that my ta05 diff joints were plastic and I think the durga's are also, so friction will cause the melting, but also I believe the size of the joint plays a huge role as well. instead of a little diff joint holding that plate in place you'll have a bigger piece holding it more securely. You have nothing to lose they're only 12 USD lol. also invest in better balls...I use trf ceramic balls but you can also get tungsten titanium balls.

crusadores

malice23,

My setting is 3.5mm using the EzRun 8.5T. I seldom hear slipping sounds, and that is normal. Also i have yet to see any residue from the slipper compound and my drive belts are in mint condition... For the past 3 months i race the DB01 each weekend for 2 hours (almost) non-stop.
And, yes, after the race i fondle the little beast for another 2 hours, whispering words of admiration... Hoho!

Tilux

Sorry i wasnt there cause I went to sleep. Anyway, the stock joint are metal, which kind? I dont know, but they are heavy for those. The balls are firmly secured (ROFL) by the joint and those round metal plate. But seriously im not sure the joint could actually help me for my problem. I wonder if any aftermarket company sell aluminium or any metal diff
for the DB-01. That could be useful.

malice23

DIMBLUM- I ordered the atomic carbon shock towers and the screws. Im going to take off the 3 racing towers and eliminate the bottoming out issue...I guess its better in the long run....how do these hold up? are they durable?

dimblum

They are far beyond durable.. If the Durga exploded, the only thing left would be the Atomic Carbon shock towers

Make sure to coat the edge of the towers with super glue/tire glue before you mount them (you only need a thin coat).. This seals the edge of the carbon fiber plate and prevents it from fraying over time.

Also, be sure to use the plastic kit wing mounts on the rear shock tower.. The wing will need the shock absorption of the soft plastic mounts to prevent excess stress to the plastic diff cover.. I tried using an aluminum wing mount once and broke a couple of diff covers because the carbon fiber part is so rigid that all the shock went to the diff cover. I switched back to the stock plastic parts and haven't had any problems since. If the stock plastic wing mounts try to pull away from the tower (after a few tumbles on the track), then reattach them with longer screws.

The front tower is a couple of mm thicker than the rear. If you find that the 20mm screws are a little short, then you may want to get an extra set of screws that are a few mm longer.. This ensures that the plastic retaining nut for the shocks has a few more threads to bite into..

Lastly, add a drop or two of thread lock to the screws when you attach the stainless steel nut to hold them in place.


Besides fixing the rear shock problem, these towers are "super" handy when it comes to shock maintenance.. The top of the shocks will only need the small plastic retaining nuts that came with the TRF shock kit (the same ones used for the 510/511X) to hold them in place.. Removing the shocks will be -wayyyy- easier when you need to work on them, the shocks will also have a better range of motion as well.

Enjoy the towers. I would never trade them back for any other part.. They are awesome!

malice23

well they definitely sound worth it...Im also going to have to remove my limiters. yay! more travel lol. so If im correct u said that they come with 2 sets of holes and the upper holes mount the trf shocks right? btw did u see the vid of the trf501x racing on the KND circuit on youtube? god that car really holds its line...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9YxkiPFudZo

dimblum

Yup, that's how the shock towers work

The video is great. That guy is a pretty good driver for loose dirt! I wish they would use astroturf on our jumps for more grip.. Our track is 100% dirt and the surface can suffer sometimes since it is outdoors..

Lanzo

Hello Again
I was browsing youtube and I found this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbGexX2q2-w

As you can see the drga in the video is mounted with the wheels of the ground and the owner is reving the motor. His rear and front wheels rotate smoothly. My Durga when mounted in the same way has a bit or vabration in the rear wheels under full throttle. If I back off the throttle a bit it is ok, but full ball is not smooth at the rear. It's not realy bad but a bit disconcerting, the front wheels are perfectly smooth.

Has anyone else got this issue?

What could be causeing the rear wheels to vibtate a bit like this at full throttle??

Cheers,
Mike

dimblum

Mike,

The guy in the video must have balanced his tires.. I do it every time I change out my tires for a new set. It ensures that you have as much tire contact with the road as possible..

Balancing your tires is pretty easy. First buy a compatible prop/tire balancer like this one: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHY61

I know it shows a plane prop, but it works equally well for 1/10th scale tires and is the same one I have used for the past year..

Now you need some putty to act as a counterweight for each wheel.. Believe it or not, the best stuff is -poster putty- like this: http://www.shopping.com/xPO-3M-Adhes...ble-2-Oz-White

The putty is applied to the inside front of the wheel and will not come off the whole time you run your car. Since it is putty, it is very easy to fine tune the weight needed to balance each tire.

Here are a couple videos to show you how the process works:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dtdXDstLr7s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPre2FSfnyk

The guys in these videos are balancing 1/8th scale tires, but the process is the same no matter the size.

Hope this helps.

ElectricGuy007

I found something pretty cool. Some tamiya drivers used to own this prototype, but I dont know if they still do or not.
I would like to see a 2wd TRF tamiya buggy, although I dont know when that is gonna happen.
But it is cool to see something like this. I guess you could just buy a B4 and put tamiya TRF shocks on it.

Tilux

Sorry I didnt quite read that post, kk I guess il give it a shot. Still have a question, my shocks keeps on bottoming out. Should I use the 3racing aluminium shocks or the Tamiya 501x one? And what type of oil in it?

malice23

thats a modified dynastorm. I can tell from the shock towers I have that buggy...actually I have it on ebay right now if any1 is interested...THE whole chassis is FRP. and its great hugely advanced for when it came out in 1992. even comes wit ha slipper clutch!

crusadores

Hello there!

Has anyone scanned their DURGA or BALDRE (even better!) decals page?

I would like to draw my own windows ec, based on the dimensions of the originals...
Right now my attempts on decoratingmy BALDRE have been quite successful. I printed on Avery Zweckform Clear using my inkjet. These where attached on the INSIDE of the shell, which is clear (not painted!).

crusadores

Interesting...

TOWERHOBBIES has the following items marked as "DISCONTINUED"

Tamiya Slipper Pad DB01
Tamiya Front One-Way Set DB01
Tamiya Double Slipper Clutch Set DB01

What does this mean? They stopped offering these or has TAMIYA stopped producing?

Stef.

Lanzo

Hey Stef,

In order to get the same effect you mentioned I put baking bpaper over the decals, traced the bits I needed with a pencil. I then stuck strips of masking tape over the baking paper to cover the entire area, when I peeled it off the pencil shape was transfered from the baking paper onto the sticky side of the masking tape. I could then cut it out and stick it onto the inside of the body shell.

Worked really well for me.

Cheers,

Mike

Lanzo

Thanks for this, It makes perfect sense. I will give it a try.

Cheers,

Mike

-Eric01-

My Durga: