my diff stripped because the idler sharpened. i was running an EZrun 60a 4000kv system (the one with the true 540 that actually drew 60 amps). i was getting 50 minutes per pack (5000mah 40c). i think the reason i never stripped the diff is because i never really got air and when i did i let off the throttle. not to mention the stock tires cant grip a vacuum table covered in maple syrup that's sat for 2 weeks.

Show some pics, man! I'm interested!! :p

That's the battery I'm running, and that's about how long my runs are...

Thanks man I will try to get some up later this week. I never posted pics here so we'll see how I go. I guess I just use the "insert image" icon? I have some pics in my gallery but will get some up here soon. Can any one please tell me if an ext2 body will fit my old st without modification? I mean do the post holes line up exact? Cheers.

Thanks for the info on Kongpower.

But what do you mean by "gutter silicone"? Here in California we don't call anything gutter silicone. I'm assuming its stuff you put on gutters. Got any brand names? Is it like caulking in a tube or just something like Plumbers Goop?

Hey cumquat...50 minutes a pack? Wow, that's awesome. EXT2Rob and I get about 20-25 minutes of full-on racing per 5000 mAh pack. What brand do you use?

that was a gens ace. it puffed from being over-discharged.

Yes, you can fit any evader body on the ST. You can use the DT, EXT, EXT2, Brushless, EXT2.4, or (Of course) ST and all of them will fit any of the Evaders. So yes, it will fit.

Yes, you can use the "insert image" icon. A window will come up, and you have to click on the "From Computer" tab. Then towards the bottom, click "Select Files". Select your files and post.

Well there is a difference. EGB and E2R run solid, on the throttle racing. Cumquat and I run bashing (At least I think he does), so we don't have the throttle down the whole time, just in bursts. (Except speed runs)

yep, just bashing (although at times it was more like thrashing). i think the biggest reason for the run times was the fact that i ran stock tires and gearing. heavier tires and/or higher gearing will drop your run times like a vegan handed a leather jacket with a squirrel fur fringe.

Hey All,

Does anyone have any experience with t-bone racing front bumper?? I got a one. I notice that it does not have the tabs that protect the e-clips on the suspension arm pivots. So I'm up in the air about putting this on OVER the stock evader (EXT/EXT2) "bumper". All the pix I can see show the TBR product mounted directly to the bulkhead. So maybe these ends are far enough out of the way that the tabs are just not needed??

Thoughts??

NTR

That bumper looks like it would cause a lot of drag. The front part of it is practically vertically flat. It's like a right angle coming off the bulkhead. If you hit something, it's not going to flex and act like a bumper, (The idea of a bumper being meant to "bump" or "lightly crash" without damage.) it's going to just stay there, and act like part of the chassis. I think on a decent impact, you might crack it off, or bust the main chassis hinge. Personally, I don't care for the looks of it. I'm not trying to be negative or make anyone feel dumb, nor am I trying to be mean about it. I'm just trying to give my thoughts like you asked and fulfill my duty as a T.E.C. member. Thank-You. :p

Well, I'm not sure what you were looking at. Maybe the "race" bumper?? That one looks kinda incorrect.

The one I got was the "Thrasher" Looks like it would protect the front pretty well .... it would deflect a direct blow shock eyes and suspension arms . . . . . and it is not angled.

Anyway's I was just asking about the trailing tabs on the stock bumper and the lack thereof on the TBR bumper. . . . . . . . .

But it sounds like you would never get that far with it. That's fine. Everybody has an opinion.

So if anyone else has any experience with front bumper let me know.

Thanks
NTR


=DieHarder;11639962]That bumper looks like it would cause a lot of drag. The front part of it is practically vertically flat. It's like a right angle coming off the bulkhead. If you hit something, it's not going to flex and act like a bumper, (The idea of a bumper being meant to "bump" or "lightly crash" without damage.) it's going to just stay there, and act like part of the chassis. I think on a decent impact, you might crack it off, or bust the main chassis hinge. Personally, I don't care for the looks of it. I'm not trying to be negative or make anyone feel dumb, nor am I trying to be mean about it. I'm just trying to give my thoughts like you asked and fulfill my duty as a T.E.C. member. Thank-You. :p[/QUOTE]

Plumbers goop i guess.Some people call it silastic.

Do you guys get rtv gasket silicone? Blue stuff?
That stuff is good,i used it for many years in the radiator industry.
Handy to have too if your doing work on 1:1 vehicles ;)

The stuff we use is called roof and gutter silicone....That's just the cheap
stuff from a hardware shop,still works pretty good.

http://www.selleys.com.au/sealants/s...e/roof-gutter/

I actually cover my esc's in this stuff in my rock crawlers so they can go under water.

Hope this helps.

here it's called caulk.

here are some pics of my evader. I got it from my brother after it had been sitting in his garage for about 6 years. he only ran like 4 packs through it before he got bored. it now has a hobbyking 35a esc, 3300kv wind hobby brushless motor, flysky 2.4ghz 3 channel rx, hobbyking mi series servo (10kg/.11sec I think), evader st swaybar kit, xtm x-cellerator wheels, proline edge fronts and proline gladiators rear with light weight flanged nylock wheel nuts. I also used soft springs for the shocks. I added a steel idler to the tranny and kept stock pinion and spur. it needed a new bumper also. just for something a little different I got some fluro accessories for the turnbuckles and shock towers. I am super happy with how this st looks and drives. the motor only runs at 70% (in hopes of not xploding my tranny) and the throttle punch is set to low. it still flips in its lid when I pull the trigger. no temp issues on 2s and I have never considered running 3s. now I know that other evader bodies fit it wont be long till I order one cos the old purple one just aint working for me. thanks for reading.http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1930755http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1930756http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1930757http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1930758[ATTACH]1930759[/IMG]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1930760[ATTACH]1930761[/IMG][ATTACH]1930762[/IMG]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1930763http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1930764http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1930765http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1930766http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1930767http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1930768http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1930769http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1930770

Nice! I have a couple of questions though. First off, I'm looking at these pics and I spotted a wire running a crossed the front shock tower and bulkhead and then it attaches to two ball joint arms on each side that screw into the a-arms. Also the same thing along the bottom of the back shock tower. What are those wires for?

Also I love those red nuts on the top shock bolts. Cool :cool:! But I noticed that it is set up so that on those bolts that nuts are on the inside of the shock towers, and the bolt heads are on the outside. When I got my Evader, it was setup opposite to that. Ever since, I have run the nuts on the outside. Is mine backwards, or is yours backwards?

NTR: I guess your right, I was looking at the wrong one. The thrasher actually looks pretty good. I'd go for it. I don't have a lot of experience with T-Bone Racing, so I can't answer your question about the tabs. Sorry if I offended you. The way I read it, it sounded in my head like you were offended, so I give my personal apologies. :confused: I guess I should have expressed myself a little better or typed it differently. I was just trying to give my opinion, not to offend you. Hope you accept my apologies...

Hey Dieharder,

No offense taken;no apology necessary . . . . it's all good . . just tryin' to gain some intel on how to mount it on my vader. Fits pretty well, so I guess I'll give it a go like it is. The TBR bumper on the back worked well . . . . so I reckon this one will too.

NTR

That 35A hobbywing ESC is a very good item. I have the 60A on my vader which is great . . . but I got a 35A for my kid's Evader, with a 3200KV TACON motor. It ran great. Later we found a Slash roller and put the 35A and the TACON motor combo on that . . . . . I was concerned . . . . but the ESC still runs cool and the motor burns the tires off . . .

The shocks are great too, I have some but I could not get rebuild kits . . . . so i dispatched that problem by buying ProLine Powerstrokes.

NTR

Glad the rear bumper worked out NTR! Hope to see some pics soon! I have a 200 amp (320 amp Peak) ESC in my Evader. The think shreds through the ground to hell. The thing will dig a hole till it bottoms out on a stop to flooring it trigger motion in sand. It's currently out of commission as I'm using the electronics in a 4WD snow plow truck that I'm building. It's coming along pretty good so far, and it really helps that my dad is a mechanical engineer and can get aluminum pieces at work for me to machine into parts here at home. I'm holding out on you guys about it, but once I'm finished, I'll give a full report on what I've done, how I did it, and pics and vids to go along with it!

Hey DieHarder those "wires" you speak of are the sway bars.http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1930932http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1930934 They help with chassis roll. I used the stiff bars however the kits also come with medium bars. Those red and yellow bits on my shock towers and the yellow ball cups are just there to look pretty that's the only reason they are there, and I think my bolts are on backwards but doesn't seem to effect performance. Thanks for reading my vader story. Cant wait to read about your 4wd plow.

Hey NTR I also wanna see the bumper. Is it for a vader ??

Interesting. I've never seen sway bars on an Evader... They aren't in my manual or any others that I know of, yet it looks as if they were designed to go on the Evader. Are they? Or are they extras that you added? They look pretty cool, and those nuts on the top shock screws really stand nicely underneath the spotlight. I thought about doing the colored ball ends, front bumper, motor guard, etc. , but I realized that if I did it, I would want to have all the option parts to be the same color. Either yellow, green, or blue. I guess I never got around to deciding and that's kinda where I left it. The ball ends look cool on your vader though. :cool:

NTR: I too want to see the bumper on the Evader!! Let's see some shots!!! :p

the part number for the sway bars are DTXC 9577(rear i think) and DTXC 9576 (front?). cos i live in Australia it cost me a bit to have them shipped over, maybe about $26 altogether for parts and shipping but i had to have them. I never noticed them on other vaders before so i just had to get them. i am stoked they got a mention:D!!! for me...i try to have my rcs look as nice as they run. but some times i go ott and just buy parts/accessories i don't even need. i also thought about getting all the yellow parts but sometimes less is more. that being said i would love all the graphite parts. that would look trick on any vader.

I used to have the anti-sway bars on my EXT2 for awhile. They do look cool. Not sure if they improved handling, but the track where I race is really bumpy. The suspension gets a complete workout which, perhaps, is why I broke a key part of the swaybar on both ends of the car. Look at picture 1444 (nice shots btw). See the two little plastic clips that hold the middle part of the bar to the car. That's what broke. If dtx would have made them out of metal all would be fine, but no, they had to cheap out and make them out of plastic. The plastic is not nearly strong enough to absorb the kind of torque the suspension generates when its constantly going through its entire travel. They finally snapped. If you're running on asphalt the sway bars probably would help but on a bumpy surface they reduce suspension compliance. I wouldn't mind a bit more suspension travel to smooth out my track!

Hey NTR, haven't seen you around here in a while. Yes, pics of the new bumper, please.

EGbasher & I had a nice race day yesterday, despite being slightly delayed by the appearance of a couple wandering dogs. (I like dogs, but our cats do not!) We had to take precautions, tie them up, give them some water, then go check with neighbors to see if they were locals. Eventually, we just let them go on their way. They seemed to know where they were going, once we got them on the other side of the fence.

I think I may have "seen the light" wrt to ribbed tires. EGB let me have a pair to try out. Initially I tried them on my "other" Evader. Had to turn the dual-rate back quite a bit on the transmitter to even make it drive-able. WAY too much steering. Kept spinning out. Decided I didn't like them. But that was on a dry track with lots of surface sand/dust. Kinda slippery.

But yesterday, being a race day, we watered the track to keep the dust down. I was driving my Subie-vader, Dirt Hawgs on the front, and brand new Gladiators on the rear. Ahh...new tires....!! But around the big-oak turn, I couldn't get any turning traction. I had to goose the throttle to kick the rear around to line up for the exit. And while I had gobs of straight line traction, directional stability wasn't that great as long as I was on-power. I decided to try the ribbed tires on the Subie. I still had to dial-out some steering, but after a little while, I was really getting the hang of it, and directional stability felt a lot more stable. And it cornered better, the front really did have more bite. I may have been sold on ribbed tires now. Thanks EGB! Good fun yesterday.