Custom made 1:10 RWD solid axle Escort MK2
#1

Thread Starter

Hi all,
I recently got interested into doing a somewhat mechanically scale Ford Escort MK2, much ispired by memberprestonlalown scale Escort MK2. He is doing awesome work on his, and as you will see I did use some of the same part as his build, namely the gearbox, the rear axle and Escort MK2 body from RetroRacing. Make sure you look at his thread over here if you have not already. Well technically it is JBLKING's thread as he was looking for a on-road RWD project, but it kind of drifted into prestonlal's own thread

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11...m.htm#11305270
Here some of the characteristics and guidelines of what I want to build:
- Fully home made aluminium ladder type chassis
- Solid axle rear end (Tamia CC-01 axle)
- Four link rear suspension, with watts linkage
- Macpherson front suspension, with similar operation as the actual Escort MK2
- Front mounted motor (Tamiya sport tuned black motor)
- Realistic weight distribution, both for center of gravity height and fore-aft weight distribution (I would like it to handle like a real car, and not like an rc racing car)
So I would like it to handle more like a full scale car than like the regular RC tend to handle with their very low center of gravity. It would be great if the car would roll, squat and dive a lot, and the best would be if it turns on three wheels like the real thing



So I was looking at different axles, and it is very hard to find axles that would fit nicely on a 185mm wide body, and at the same time be somewhat scale looking. I looked at a few ones like this:

Most properly sized and scale looking axles were discontinued, the only option left was the CC-01 axle which fits perfectly, but I was not 100% sure about the diff casing being off-center, I would have liked it better centered like on real cars. Another option was SDI axles, whic are customizable in lenght with no special tools (thanks prestonlal for mentionning these). I had already pulled the trigger on a CC-01 axle when I finally realized I could have got a single SDI axle for 65 euros. fairly expensive but that would be very scale looking. I also liked having a real diff better, instead of the solid spool found in the SDI axles. I might change my mind once I ride the car and have traction issues

http://sdi4x4.com/product_info.php?c...products_id=67
For wheels I already have some pretty scale looking steel rims looking wheels, and they fit nicely with the Tamiya Rally Blocks I already had from my TB-01 Rally. I plan on using these for the dirt rally mode on the escort, unless the offset does not work (they have a pretty high offset, not sure if it is +3 or +6. I found them on ebay but you can also find them athttp://www.genkidoridori.com/index.p...acturers_id=48

Not mine, but these are the same wheels and tires so it should look pretty scale:

EDIT:I also have the same thread over at Scale4x4rc.org, I will likely always update both but here is the link:
http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/sho...332#post966332
#2

Thread Starter

I used plastic to do a first shape of the frame bars, based on pictures I found on Google for Escorts MK2.



Test fitting under the body to have a first idea of suspension clearance:



I then proceeded to cut the shapes in 1/8" thick aluminium with a jigsaw and finish with a manual file. Here is the plastic model, rough aluminum shape, and the cleaned shape:


In order to make the two pieces identical, I aligned and clamped them together, and then put this assembly into the bench vise to file:



Once done, I made the angles manually in the bench vise to make them look like this:

Then attached together with the first piece of appropriate aluminium I found:




First mock up with body:


Making the brackets to attach the four links to the axles. I used cereal box cardboard to test the shape (it quickly gets complicated when wrapping around an irregular shape is involved). Once the cardboard fit nicely I cut the same shape into thinner aluminum (approx 1/16)



#3

Thread Starter

Bought a Jun Fac drive shaft on ebay. I will probably use it at a pretty extended position to have the motor mounted up front.


Mocking up again:


Here is how I will make the holders for the front lower arms. It will be more like a link really, the ball end linked to the chassis inside the square tube (I will drill a hole in the square tube to slide a pin in)

Here you can see the bracket I made to be able to mount the watts linkage to the diff housing. Well on actual cars it is on the diff housing, center, but mine is off center so I made the bracket to be centered.

Here is how a watts linkage works. This is as seen from behing the car. The small cross mark in the middle is where the linkage is bolted to the diff assembly. This allows for a vertical movement of the axle (without the lateral swing that happens with a panhard rod)

Compressed suspension:

Lifted suspension:

Here is a small video of my wooden test rig, makes it easier to understand:
http://s194.photobucket.com/user/frederik_Bucket/media/FE117441-D452-4517-94DC-5BE6F239E47D-2577-000005B71941199D.mp4.html
or this animation:

#4

Thread Starter

I had to file the housing a little for the small L bracket to fit perfectly flat as the axle had a small slope starting right there:



You see better what I had to remove here, see the top compared to the bottom of the axle:

And mocking this up again with the watts linkage in position:





And a couple more shots of the axle with almost all its brackets (will need something more to mount the shocks, it's already designed in cardboard but needs to make in in metal)


The tamiya sport tuned motor I just received, and the traxxas turnbuckles so I can have 4 links
(I got two off of my traxxas nitro stampede)


#5

Thread Starter

For the front macpherson suspension, I bought some used Team Losi XXX shocks, they have threaded body and I think I figured out a way of doing the struts and wheel hub/bearings attachment. No pics yet though. Should be pretty much like the real car, shock attached to hub at an angle of approximately 100 degrees, shock upside down (shaft up, body down) and I will use the shocks ride height adjusters to tighten the shock on the wheel hubs. It will be easier to explain with pics 

#6

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Excellent work and detailed pics Frederick! Looking forward to see it come together! Also that front strut sounds so cool!

Excellent work and detailed pics Frederick! Looking forward to see it come together! Also that front strut sounds so cool!
#11

Thread Starter

Thank you for the comments!
Small update, I did some work last night, the two brackets holding the four links to the chassis. Here is a small video of the 4-link moving. Watts linkage not mounted yet.

I took some pics from diffrerent angles, I'll post more when I have some time.
Frederik
#13

Thread Starter

Ha! Just like I came here to check this thread, I see you posted something yesterday
It is strange that I dont receive any notifications?
I will update with the more recent stuff I made recently, but I'll do that on the computer, it does not write very well on the iPad (the text box turn all white and text disappear if you write something longer.
Fred

I will update with the more recent stuff I made recently, but I'll do that on the computer, it does not write very well on the iPad (the text box turn all white and text disappear if you write something longer.
Fred
#14

Thread Starter

A few more pics with the body to have an idea of the height the suspension will need to be. Looks like the chassis will have to habe a little bit of forward rake so the front suspension mounting point (lower arm on the chassis) does not end up too high and the arm at a too steep angle.





And these are the shocks I have found to make the front struts. See I used two of the springs collars (normally used to adjust the height and preload) and I will use them to secure the strut to my custom wheel knuckles. Still thinking of how to make the front strut towers, I have a few ideas.






And these are the shocks I have found to make the front struts. See I used two of the springs collars (normally used to adjust the height and preload) and I will use them to secure the strut to my custom wheel knuckles. Still thinking of how to make the front strut towers, I have a few ideas.


#15

Thread Starter

This one is with the fake tall sidewall rims and smaller diameter tires, makes for a more stock look. In this pic it is approximately 5mm ground clearance. Given these tires have +3mm offset they start rubbing in the fenders at that height but they still fit nicely. I am glad they do because I think they look pretty scale.

The smaller tires/wheels looks more appropriate for the escort IMHO, compared to the normal wheels and tires (same pic I posted previously):

And the 2 piece adjustable offset wheels, 31mm wide rear (wheels are in +2mm position):

The smaller tires/wheels looks more appropriate for the escort IMHO, compared to the normal wheels and tires (same pic I posted previously):

And the 2 piece adjustable offset wheels, 31mm wide rear (wheels are in +2mm position):

#16

Thread Starter

Here are pictures of 1:1 aftermarket (modded for rally) escort front suspension. See how the lower arm is actually two pieces, one is the main arm (a link with two ball ends really) and there is a second link to locate the arm and prevent fore-aft movement.


I think the production Escort MK2 had similar main arm link, but the secondary link served a double purpose as it was also the sway bar (if I understand the pics correctly).


I think I am going to do the modded version, and have the sway bar separate, as it will be easier to dial in the suspension. To start with I am not going to put sway bars, at least not right from the start. It looks like people are modding it to simply replace the sway bar attachment by a link attached to the chassis.
Fred
I think the production Escort MK2 had similar main arm link, but the secondary link served a double purpose as it was also the sway bar (if I understand the pics correctly).


I think I am going to do the modded version, and have the sway bar separate, as it will be easier to dial in the suspension. To start with I am not going to put sway bars, at least not right from the start. It looks like people are modding it to simply replace the sway bar attachment by a link attached to the chassis.
Fred
#17

Thread Starter

Here are the 21mm wide tires I have bought for the steelies rims. Should fit well with the wheels for that stocker look:

And the drift tires and wheels I have ordered too, I have a feeling that car will make for a pretty cool drifter

And a couple 1:1 pics just for kicks :banana:


And the drift tires and wheels I have ordered too, I have a feeling that car will make for a pretty cool drifter


And a couple 1:1 pics just for kicks :banana:


#18

Thread Starter

Made a first draft of the front strut design. Still a lot to sort out:
I made the steering part way too big and it would interfere with the frame. It will have to be higher or lower than the frame rails throughout the suspension travel.
I still need to add 3 or 4 screws to sandwitch the two outer aluminum pieces. In the middle, the thinner L shaped part holding the shock also serves as the retainer part for the bearings. The two outer pieces are drilled through size of the bearing, and the thinner center part is smaller.





Also I can see the lower suspension arm is going to be very short, almost like two of these ball joints screwed onto each other. This will make it hard to make the secondary arm like the actual car and attach it to the arm. Maybe I will put the mounting holes more towards center of the car. I am having other ideas as I write though :lolbeat: Nothing unsolvable I think
I made the steering part way too big and it would interfere with the frame. It will have to be higher or lower than the frame rails throughout the suspension travel.
I still need to add 3 or 4 screws to sandwitch the two outer aluminum pieces. In the middle, the thinner L shaped part holding the shock also serves as the retainer part for the bearings. The two outer pieces are drilled through size of the bearing, and the thinner center part is smaller.





Also I can see the lower suspension arm is going to be very short, almost like two of these ball joints screwed onto each other. This will make it hard to make the secondary arm like the actual car and attach it to the arm. Maybe I will put the mounting holes more towards center of the car. I am having other ideas as I write though :lolbeat: Nothing unsolvable I think

#19

Thread Starter

Here are a few more pics I just snapped, in an exploded view to make it clearer how it is made:
There are 4 main layers from left to right in the first pic:
-The inner bearing and ball joint holder
-the strut support (angled for approximately 100 degrees strut inclination)
-a shim because the strut support is not thick enough to fill the space between the two bearingson the axle shaft
-the outer bearing holder and steering support.
Keep in mind I still need to put screws (4 probably, one at each corner) to keep the 4 layers sandwitched together.
I will likely have to put the screw heads towards the inside, so I dont have the screw heads poking out where the wheel mounts. That means I will drill and tap the outer bearing holder and use screws just the right lenght so they end flush with the outer bearing holder.
Still needs to do somehing about the steering arm which is way too big, but you get the idea.


There are 4 main layers from left to right in the first pic:
-The inner bearing and ball joint holder
-the strut support (angled for approximately 100 degrees strut inclination)
-a shim because the strut support is not thick enough to fill the space between the two bearingson the axle shaft
-the outer bearing holder and steering support.
Keep in mind I still need to put screws (4 probably, one at each corner) to keep the 4 layers sandwitched together.
I will likely have to put the screw heads towards the inside, so I dont have the screw heads poking out where the wheel mounts. That means I will drill and tap the outer bearing holder and use screws just the right lenght so they end flush with the outer bearing holder.
Still needs to do somehing about the steering arm which is way too big, but you get the idea.



#20

Thread Starter

And here are the shocks, before and after modding. I just cut and filed the top attachment. See you also need extra spring seat adjusters because there is only one per shock, so I odered a set of 4 (two of which are longer, but I did not mind, actually that was good as I was not sure which lenght would be better).
I think this seller stil sells used shocks like these. Look for losi xxx shocks, or someing like that. Make sure you get the proper lenght as there are like 3 or 4 different lenghts and the body all look the same.
Edit: the seller where I got these does not have any more for sale. Make sure you get the threaded body version, as there are also the smooth body with clamp collar type. As for the lenght, here are the measurements of the ones I got:
Body lenght: 1.835 before cutting (including plastic cap)
Lenght: 3.345 overall outer lenght including the plastic ball end, or 2.9" eye to eye.
Diameter: approx 0.5"
After modding the shock body is 0.455" including plastic cap. Shock travel is 0.75"
Looks like 2" long soft springs will fit nicely! Its nice these losi shocks have the cap at the shaft instead of at the top of the shock, so I can cut the top mounting eye and have very little space required on the knuckle (the shock is almost contacting the strut lower ball end)
Fred

edit:
Decided on m chassis minilites wheels with 60D tires, it should have the small yet meaty look just like the real thing :banana::banana::banana:
I am pretty sure I'll be able to adapt my front struts so they fit inside the wheels nicely. Will post some pics when they arrive.
Fred
I think this seller stil sells used shocks like these. Look for losi xxx shocks, or someing like that. Make sure you get the proper lenght as there are like 3 or 4 different lenghts and the body all look the same.
Edit: the seller where I got these does not have any more for sale. Make sure you get the threaded body version, as there are also the smooth body with clamp collar type. As for the lenght, here are the measurements of the ones I got:
Body lenght: 1.835 before cutting (including plastic cap)
Lenght: 3.345 overall outer lenght including the plastic ball end, or 2.9" eye to eye.
Diameter: approx 0.5"
After modding the shock body is 0.455" including plastic cap. Shock travel is 0.75"
Looks like 2" long soft springs will fit nicely! Its nice these losi shocks have the cap at the shaft instead of at the top of the shock, so I can cut the top mounting eye and have very little space required on the knuckle (the shock is almost contacting the strut lower ball end)
Fred

edit:
Decided on m chassis minilites wheels with 60D tires, it should have the small yet meaty look just like the real thing :banana::banana::banana:
I am pretty sure I'll be able to adapt my front struts so they fit inside the wheels nicely. Will post some pics when they arrive.
Fred
#21

Thread Starter

Today I finally received the gd600 tranny! and also the m-chassis tires I bought. Still waiting for the wheels though.
Here is a size comparison with tamiya touring car tires. The m tires are tamiya too, the medium size is 60D (60mm) and the small one is the 55mm model.
I think the medium size (60mm) will be perfect for the escort! By the way the disc in this picture is from the crappy chinese kit, but are almost same size as the one Prestonlal will be sending me! (I am buyin some of his leftover parts from his disc brakes and Venom 1/8th scale bike brakes) :banana:

Here is a size comparison with tamiya touring car tires. The m tires are tamiya too, the medium size is 60D (60mm) and the small one is the 55mm model.
I think the medium size (60mm) will be perfect for the escort! By the way the disc in this picture is from the crappy chinese kit, but are almost same size as the one Prestonlal will be sending me! (I am buyin some of his leftover parts from his disc brakes and Venom 1/8th scale bike brakes) :banana:


#22

Thread Starter

Just got the mini wheels to go with the mini tires. Regarding the brakes fitment, I have not been at home to test fit the rotors and calipers in the wheels, but the inner diameter of the wheel near the hex is approx. 33.5mm, tapering out to 36mm at the outer edge.
The discs are 30mm so that leaves 1.75mm each side for the caliper, it will be tight but sounds like it is doable. Worst case is I will put the rotors on the lathe and "turn" them down a little lol (in diameter that is haha)
But I am questioning clearance towards the wheel inner face, because the hex is flush with the inner side spokes, so if the hex sits fully in the hex cavity, that leaves no space whatsoever between the disc and wheel spokes. If that is the case I might dremel the inside spokes a little to make room for the calipers. I will update once I do some actual test fitting.
Fred
edit:
Got to test the fitment of the mini wheels! Looks like it will be a perfect fit!
The steering linkage will need just a little bit of filing but nothing affecting the structure really. And the size is just perfect!
I think the brakes will fit tightly but should be doable. Will definately put the wheels on the lathe and shave some material from the back face of the wheel.







The discs are 30mm so that leaves 1.75mm each side for the caliper, it will be tight but sounds like it is doable. Worst case is I will put the rotors on the lathe and "turn" them down a little lol (in diameter that is haha)
But I am questioning clearance towards the wheel inner face, because the hex is flush with the inner side spokes, so if the hex sits fully in the hex cavity, that leaves no space whatsoever between the disc and wheel spokes. If that is the case I might dremel the inside spokes a little to make room for the calipers. I will update once I do some actual test fitting.
Fred
edit:
Got to test the fitment of the mini wheels! Looks like it will be a perfect fit!
The steering linkage will need just a little bit of filing but nothing affecting the structure really. And the size is just perfect!
I think the brakes will fit tightly but should be doable. Will definately put the wheels on the lathe and shave some material from the back face of the wheel.








#23

Thread Starter

Well I'm not all that sure the brakes will fit that easily in the mini wheels, the pads looks like they will fit but I worry about the brake caliper which needs to be buried in that tiny space in the wheel (to reach the disc that will be almost where the wheel spokes are). It will all depends on the shape of the caliper. I might end up grinding whatever does not fit and JB weld it to one of the aluminum pieces of the strut.
I will probably still need to remove some of the knuckle aluminium anyway, depending on the shape of the caliper. As long as I keep enough space to place the two "sandwitch" screws on this side of the strut I should be good!

Fred
I will probably still need to remove some of the knuckle aluminium anyway, depending on the shape of the caliper. As long as I keep enough space to place the two "sandwitch" screws on this side of the strut I should be good!

Fred
#24

Thread Starter

Ok I got all the brakes parts as well as some styrene bits (wing, and bumpers!! thanks to Prestonlal!) and now the real headscratching begins lol
The discs are pretty small which is great for the mini wheels, but it will still be a challenge to fit the brakes with the mini wheels. Here is a close up shot of the wheel+brake next to the brake+caliper:

See how the screws and washers to hold the pads take approximately twice the space of what is available between the disc and the rim. Few options I have thought about, but no real solution yet, might be a mix of all:
- I can machine the inside of the wheel a bit to shave some plastic and make the inside of the wheel slightly larger. But I'll have to measure the thickness first and make sure I keep enough so it stays strong.
- I can machine the disc to a slightly smaller diameter, but then I'll have more trouble fitting the caliper to strut as it will need to be even more towards the center.
I see why Trinity2DBone got few mm wider each side with the discs, because the part of the disc that is actually hex is much shorter than normal hex, so it does not sit in the bottom of the wheel (there is space between hex face and inside the hex in the wheel). I will machine the wheels on the lathe to shorten the wheel's hex hole so it is just deep enough, and I will definately have to machine the inside spokes too.
Some more pics comparing normal touring car wheels with the minis. Of course there would be no problem whatsoever fitting in the touring car wheels but I would really like to use the minis...


The discs are pretty small which is great for the mini wheels, but it will still be a challenge to fit the brakes with the mini wheels. Here is a close up shot of the wheel+brake next to the brake+caliper:

See how the screws and washers to hold the pads take approximately twice the space of what is available between the disc and the rim. Few options I have thought about, but no real solution yet, might be a mix of all:
- I can machine the inside of the wheel a bit to shave some plastic and make the inside of the wheel slightly larger. But I'll have to measure the thickness first and make sure I keep enough so it stays strong.
- I can machine the disc to a slightly smaller diameter, but then I'll have more trouble fitting the caliper to strut as it will need to be even more towards the center.
I see why Trinity2DBone got few mm wider each side with the discs, because the part of the disc that is actually hex is much shorter than normal hex, so it does not sit in the bottom of the wheel (there is space between hex face and inside the hex in the wheel). I will machine the wheels on the lathe to shorten the wheel's hex hole so it is just deep enough, and I will definately have to machine the inside spokes too.
Some more pics comparing normal touring car wheels with the minis. Of course there would be no problem whatsoever fitting in the touring car wheels but I would really like to use the minis...



#25

Thread Starter

For the headlights I am tempted to go with what Rangeman used in his range rover classic build thread :
http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/sho...t=73737&page=4




Here is the link he posted for the lights, the size looks suitable for the escort:
http://dx.com/p/20mm-light-diffusing...ck-4600?item=8
http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/sho...t=73737&page=4




Here is the link he posted for the lights, the size looks suitable for the escort:
http://dx.com/p/20mm-light-diffusing...ck-4600?item=8