Raguvian

I understand what an AWD torque split is, but I'm saying that the back end likes to kick out already, so a more rear biased torque split would just make it oversteer even more. It would be really cool though. I'd like to give that a try if there was a way to make the AWD more rearward biased.
The RWD comment was kind of unrelated. I played with it in RWD mode yesterday and it was too hard to control. The ground was a bit wet yesterday though, so that made things even more difficult.

TIGER76

No the tamiya bullet connectors are lame upto deans/traxxas will allow better currency through.Overload on tams and they begin to melt together like the old msc used to on modded motors,remember my old boomarang on a 9t and it melts the msc connectors together [] loved that car too
My steering fault was do to a flat battery due to this only happening this time,yeh the tt-01 steering is sloppy as hell anyway but its make it more fun at speed lol

FastVee

mamba vid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTcDElwSl38

sorry 4 poor PQ

TIGER76

LOL quality m8 love the sound of that mamba when it starts to open up down the the bottom of that vid hehe
and you must go through a lot of tyres lol plenty of power and awesome spins n1

Raguvian

I have a general battery question but I guess I'll just post it here.

Can I charge any battery at whatever amps I want as long as I don't overcharge it? Or do batteries vary in the amount of amps they can be charged at? I charge my IB3800's at 2.5A, but I was wondering if it's OK to charge all batteries at 2.5A, or if there's a max amount of amps they can handle.

FastVee

Thanks Tiger! -it was first run with mamba

Usually its max.1c (4400mah max 4.4 amps) -however i have charged airsoft batteries(600mah) on 2 amps,no explosions yet, and racers usually charge all batts at 6 or more amps to give the last "oomph"-this will shorten the life of the batts tho.

FastVee

bit ot, but i´ll ask anyway.

Now im thinking about keeping mustang tt as rally car,on 17t, and now i need to find good touring car on tarmac -it must take Mamba abuse without exploding (mainly driving at parking lots and roads)

Thinking of ta-05 and f103gt.

Any info on thease? -i know that gt is rwd and both should be good, but i want drivers car, something that will make a good driver smile. -i mainly like classic cars, so rwd with...yep a new 65 mustang body would be good(drool).

05 is belt driven so small stones...umm maby not so good idea.
does all 1/10 bodys fit on gt? - and can it handle the MM 5700? (8 cell), or do i buy another 4wd/TT-01 ? - mainly thinking thease
http://www.stellamodels.net/catalog/...oducts_id=1741
http://www.stellamodels.net/catalog/...oducts_id=2540

or what do you suggest?

chewyjr13

My Feedback: (1)

bit the bullet

ordered these parts from rc mart
tamiya front stabalizer
tamiya rear stabalizer
ball differential set
carbon fibre top deck
yea racing 50mm dampers
aluminum propeller shaft
aluminum motor mount
gpm tie rod set
aluminum racing set

now im building this as a drift car but im ceontemplating weather to use like a novak xra esc adn a 15-19 t motor or get the traxxas venilion set up
its about 100 bucks more for the traxxas but no maintanence. Also i need a servo what is yall oppinion?

thanks

Raguvian

Ok, thanks. I was asking because I'm going to buy a Micro-T on Monday and I don't want to deal with the AA powered charger, and charging a 150 mah battery at 2.5A seemed a bit excessive. Some Internet research shows that they recommend you charge it at 0.3A.

FastVee

150mah ? even my old AA batteries are 2500mah,and AAA 1700mah. i charge them at 2-3 amps, so that is about 1.5C charge. 0.3A is only 1A in 3 hours, is it really that low charge rate/low amp battery?

150mah and 2.5A ...yep,you´re right -it is not very good idea to charge almost 20C

Raguvian

Yeah, it's a 150 mah battery only, but it manages to get a 10-12 minute run time, and a 0.3A (2C) it charges in 22 minutes. BTW, the Micro-T is 1/36 scale and fits in the palm of your hand. It's not going to use that much power.
Also, does that mean it's OK to charge my 3800 at 3A, which is still less than 1C? The Piranha charger charges max 3A on A/C power.
I tried to charge my IB's at 0.1A yesterday, and 1000 minutes later it's charged only 1650 mah![:@]

FastVee

Ok, so it´s that small[X(]

And yes, i would say that it is safe to charge 3A, i use 3.5A and when i want to race i charge at 5A on all 3000mah and more batts, oldest is charged well over 100 times and it gets very hot while charging, it still has the same "new pack"-power.

It is safer to use low charge rate,but i have had no problems! - i also discharge them b4 every charge (nimh)

and when i charge on 5A , i get the packs to 8.54 volts on 6 cell, it stays a bit less on 2A

FastVee

Ok, decided to get rid of the nearly flat tires the only way i could think of -driving Not the best idea, the car was undriveable as you see in the end of this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-brdK0yA40 video. the battery pack was nearly empty 4400mah 6-cell.

i hit the brakes atleast a mile before that hit broke only the rear shock tower

littleleon

I have a question to anyone who has bought the 3 Racing Aluminum nuckles front and rear.

I've just finished installing some hop ups for my Tt-01, and most of them I'd bought because I thought that they would really make a difference to the way the car handled. However, I had a bit of extra cash and saw the aluminium nuckles sitting there all lonely and all and I decided that i had to have them. Impulsive I know.

Get home and try to install them on the car. They don't fit. It'll teach me to get things without doing my homework first.

Now here is my question, How am I going to be able to get these nuckles to work with the Tamiya Ball Diff and Front One-Way. I've read on the 3 Racing site that I need the 3 racing swing shafts and diff outer joins. Is that all I need, is there any other way to get these guys to work for me?

Has anyone managed to install these guys without using the swing shafts and diff joins?

chrisestt01

You will have to get drive shafts that fit. I use [link=http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?sort=1a&keywords=STT233&x=16&y=7]http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?sort=1a&keywords=STT233&x=16&y=7 [/link]. Alternatively, as you discovered, you can get the 3R swing shafts and diff cups (because the ball end of their swing shaft is smaller than Tamiya), but I think that will cost you more.

dfiantii

Whats up Chrises sorry I have not gotten back to you on the PM. College has started up again and its going to be a little harder than last semester. I am actually on my way out to my father-in-law's house to watch the Super Bowl. Is your ride up and running now? I have decided that I am going to put dean plugs or maybe even bullet plugs on all my motors rather than direct solder like I have been doing. Makes for a faster swapout of motors and I plan on having a few of my motors rebuilt this week but will use some spare ones I have for practicing. How is your TT-01 coming along?

Raguvian

It looks like I'll have to put the TT-01 upgrades on hold to get the Micro-T. I already want ballbearings and the threaded axles.

I do want new wheels and tires for my car though. They're getting chewed up.[&:]

chewyjr13

My Feedback: (1)

so any suggestion weather ill have a good set up and if ii should just get the venilion?

chrisestt01

No worries. After building the rally Focus I find that there is an awful lot of dust that gets into the car and no matter what you do, there is always dust stuck somewhere and it spreads. It gets onto my tools and into the tool box as well. Not sure if it is worth the hassle, so now I am contemplating converting it to a drifter.
On my CF chassis I installed a rear ball diff and front one way, but have not had time to test it thoroughly or race it. Hopefully this week I will find the time to go to the track for practice.
I like the deans plugs. I usually swap out motors between race heats.

chrisestt01

You got yourself some good stuff. You will have to do a lot of fine tuning with your shocks and stabilizers. Make one change at a time and drive consistently to check out the difference between changes.
Can't help you with the venillion.

littleleon

Thank you very much for your advice. I hadn't considered GPM.

The Hedgehog

The F103GT will be impossible to control with brushless. Lunchboxer had to use a gyro to keep his going straight. Go with the !A-05 if you are going to use brushless. Silvercan power is already a handful on the F103GT.

scandomofo

I ordered some parts from rcmart. hopefully they will come soon and hope to install them

*Yeah Racing (#DP-0001SV) Alloy 50mm Damper Set (SV) For 1:10 Touring
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...ducts_id=20838

*Yeah Racing (#TT-042BU) Alloy Bearing Steering Set (BU) For TT01
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...ducts_id=25687

Tamiya (#53790) Cup Joint for Universal Shaft For TT01
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...ducts_id=16257

GPM (#STT233) Steel Universal Swing Shaft
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...ducts_id=19492

omegabri

Will the Cup Joint's fit the standard TT-01 kit, but with GPM Universal Titanium shafts fitted also ???

scandomofo

im pretty sure that it'll work out. if not... im gonna have a bad day haha