osr

That cleaning tip may come in very handy:
Iv'e just tried packing out my diff's with some stiff grease, really packing it in and it has worked quite nicely. The long grass doesn't stop me anymore, now i just take it with me:

DriftingDragon

ok guys i have a problem for ya. so everytime near the end of my battery life but still a fare bit left my car will just freeze up and not move the servo wont turn, and the wheels almost completely lock up and the only way to get it to work is to drop it from a very short high or bump the side of it so what up with it, the esc isnt hot when this happens the only thing that is hot is the motor. so any idea

DriftingDragon

ANY help would be great my lhs closes soon so its kinda urgent[&o]

PSXBatou

As promised here is my TT-01, all parts are Tamiya branded. Electronics aren't for obvious reasons.

Here is a list of parts that are on my TT-01, the part number for the item is in (parentheses). I added the part numbers so that they will be easy to find, hopefully this can help someone out if they are looking for a specific part for the TT-01.

Tamiya Hop-Ups/Parts-
Front 1-Way Differential (53671)
Rear Ball Differential (53663)
Tamiya sealed ball bearings (53497)
TB EVO IV Ball Joints Front (3455877) Rear (3455878) Must have if you are using the TB EVO IV Drive shaft
TB EVO IV Aluminum Drive Shaft (53783)
Aluminum Rear Toe-in Uprights (-2 Rear) (53800)
High Speed Gear Set (Using 58T) (53665)
22/23T Pinion Set (Using 23T) (50357)
24/25T Pinion Set (50477)
Front Stabilizer Set (53694)
Rear Stabilizer Set (53695)
Aluminum Motor Heat Sink (53664)
Aluminum Motor Mount (53666)
Carbon Upper Frame (53672)
Adjustable Upper Arms F/R (-2 front. 0 rear) (53674)
Adjustable Turnbuckle Tie-rods (53662)
Aluminum Racing Steering Set (53670)
Aluminum Steering Link (53864)
Racing Radials (50419) I use Sorex for the Track, I also have a set of HPI Belted Radials
Sponge Inserts (53113)
Metal Drive Shaft Set F/R (50883)
Metal Wheel Axles F/R (50823)
Aluminum Wheel Hubs (53569)
Ball Diff Cup Joint (53806) Must have if you are running universals with a Ball Diff
Cup Joint for TB-01 Front One-Way Unit (53590) Must have if you are running universals with a Front One Way Diff
TRF Damper Special Blue (49355)
Tamiya Aluminum Blue Bumper Stopper (53682)
Tamiya Aluminum Blue Lock Nuts (53159)
Tamiya Bumper Blue (53683)

Electronics-
Tekin G11 Pro ESC
Futaba Digital BB Servo (S3151)
Futaba FASST 2.4Ghz Receiver
Trinity Komodo Pro 19T Motor

Enough with the text and on with the photos!











Feel free to look here http://batou.org/PSXBatou/gallery/th...ls.php?album=5 for more photos. The photos in the album span from when it was parts in an unbuilt kit, the two bodies I did for it, mid-way configuration, and the final configuration its in now.

It took me from around October 07 till now to finish off this beast, its been a fun and expensive ride but well worth every penny. I remember many a night with little to no sleep from working on it.

Hope you all enjoy

dfiantii

Get better tires. Hey since the track will be closed for a while maybe we can do some parking lot bashing for a little while something smooth so it does not mess anything up. Let me know. I may switch over to my backup body and tires for a parking lot run instead of using my sorex tires.

PSXBatou

Those are my bash tires that I don't care about I think I put that I use Sorex on the track in the list of stuff on the car. Once the current set of bashers wear out I will swap over to the HPI Belted ones as my bash tires.

I don't keep my sorex tires mounted unless I'm at a track.

DriftingDragon

any help please... my lhs closes in 15min
and its the last time i can go this week

PSXBatou

If you have a failsafe on either the TX/RX or a failsafe device that is what is causing it. On the Futaba 3PM 2.4ghz system I have it has a built in fail safe, if you enable it the behavior is exactly as you explain it. Something, the ESC, TX/RX, or a failsafe unit is doing this. Look through your Radio gear, & ESC configuration manuals for anything that says "fail safe". If you have a fail safe module disconnect it.

It could also be that the motor is geared too high or too low and is cutting out, however that wouldnt stop servos so thats what lead me to believe its a configuration issue. The battery could be bad too, have you tried multiple batteries and do you get the same result?

You need to add more to this, your explaination is too vague to give accurate advice.

DriftingDragon

for the gearing im just using stock gears with a 21t, and im using stock rx, and a duratrax 12t, an would the Thermal protection, to prevent damage from current overload. for the esc be the failsafe?

PSXBatou

Try a couple more batteries and see what happens, if it still behaves the same with multiple batteries that rules out the battery. Stick the stock silver can in it and see what it does, if it still does it with the Silver can that would rule out the engine. It sounds like its a faulty ESC but its hard to say. Try the two things suggested and see what you get as far as results go.

Maybe try the TEU-101BK ESC if you still have it too.

Good luck, glitches are a pain to pin point at times.

DriftingDragon

ok thnk

DriftingDragon

heres the video of my car > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BfQE9_WrIYU <

ps its my first vid

i also figured out a symton i had the tx crystal backwards and i put it back 2 normal and it severely reduced the problem

Raguvian

Well, my TT-01 met an untimely demise yesterday with a curb.
The rear differential came out of the case, 3 screw holes got stripped and the front shock tower has broken off on both left and right sides, so both front wheels flop about.

omegabri

My TT-01 did VERY good yesterday in it’s first head-to-head racing scene, in a fantastic large oval brand new empty car park not too far from where I live.
I was pitting against my brothers car (which is also a Tamiya – very much a TT-01, but petrol version !!) and I am very pleased to say that my hopped up electric TT-01 easily kept up……in fact it was very good ‘neck and neck’ racing !!!

Mines got just about every ally hop-up you can get (mainly GPM and/or 3Racing, along with Tamiya bits), and fully ball raced, inc. the steering links, with a Tamiya Sport Tuned RS motor in it. No carbon chassis bits and no gearing upgrades…….but it goes like a rocket !! (A tad more acceleration up to top speed would be slightly better out of the bends, but it didn’t really need it anyway !!)

Anyway…….he he he !!! and yip yip yip !!!!!!

omegabri

OK guys….

Looks like I’m gonna take the Corally route to ensure good battery connection and no resistance…..
Just a couple of grey areas:

1) Which part (male or female) goes on each battery that I have ? (Obviously the opposite would be connected to my ESC I assume !!)

2) Do you always get connection protection sleeves ? (i.e. Don’t want a big bang coming from my car/kit box off a spare battery !! ha ha)

3) Can you simply cut the charging connector off any unit and fix Corally connectors to it, so it matches my batteries ??

Soz for all the question folks !!!

osr

Hi, i just ordered the 24/25 pinion and 55/58 spur set. Hope they get here for the weekend

Cheers mate. I can't wait to try them. Any idea what your top speed is ?

wasting money

I can give you #1 out of your 3. Put the female on your battery. That way there is nothing exposed to short out.

chrisestt01

Hey osr, the gears you ordered will improve your top speed, but the price you pay is that you will lose on acelleration. I don't know what my top speed is in absolute terms, because when racing, it is the relative speed that is important (your speed relative to the person in front/behind you). It also depends on the type of motor you run and the battery. Experiment with it - it's great fun.

TIGER76

Yeah ive stuck with 23/58 now gives a nice top end and good enough pullaway i tried 25/55 for a while but my motor gained alot of heat and had to let it cool down every 10mins or so,gave a great top speed tho 35mph+ on a 19 turn.
I ordered the carsons speed pack a while ago with the 28t pinion and used it against the 55 spur but had way too many problems with over heating but man when it built up speed it flew!!!
But for now im happy with 23/55 on my 17x2 motor
Keeping the car straight at top speed always seems to be the problem though unless the ground is perfectly flat,i use the local running track now and its super smoooth

littleleon

Having recently attained a TT01 I've been busy adding hopups and other parts. Now, I've been running it in the carpark at work or near home, thinking that yeah, it's not too bad, but It seemed a little too easy. Well, just bashing I guess is easy... open space and all.

I took it finally to my lhs circuit today, and wow, did it change my mind.

It was really hard. I must have crashed or flipped the thing at least every other lap. It was so much fun and yet so much work, I was shaking when my battery finally gave up.
I'm hooked. I'd get the first corner ok, then crash on the second... next lap, first 2 corners were great, crashed on the third... and so it went on and on. I think in about an hour, I got perhaps one lap where I'd say, if nothing else, I got a fairly good line going.

My body is showing the worse for wear though... I snapped my antenna post, lost a clip, but nothing major broke... so that's gotta be a good thing.

I'm currently running the SuperStock Tz motor which I found to be great for the track. It doesn't have that many straights and it was way too technical for my skill level.
I was thinking of purchasing a Mamba Max for this car in the near future, but I think I'll wait until my skill level can handle the Tz, then think again about upgrading... maybe...

What do you think? Should I upgrade anyway?

I've also noticed that I have an amazing amount of understeer. Any ideas as to what would be a good starting point to dialing this out of the car? camber? toe? or sway bars?

I had a really fun day...

osr

If you are using the stock tyres, then replace them first to start to solve understeer. You will have to search a bit for reccomendations for tyres on different surfaces. Once you have suitable tyres then look some more at your driving

good luck.

dfiantii

Which version of the TT-01 do you have? I have the base model but with alot of hopeups, to much to list. First find out what tires your local track runs. The stock tires will never hold up to track racing their not built for that. Second I would dial in a little bit of camber all around. Right now I think i have 1.5 degrees all around but I don't know what my droop setting is. Ride height is 4.5mm front 5mm rear. I am running a Trinity P2K2 motor with a 58/23 gear ratio. I have medium sway bars and a Quantum Pro ESC 7 turn motor limit. I changed out the gear diffs for a ball diff in the rear with a one way in the front to cut down on rotational mass the motor has to push as well as i changed out the plastic dogbones and axles for metal ones that you would find on the TL01 I think. All i know is my dog bones are 39mm in length. Post some pics.

chrisestt01

Hey Dfiantii how is the racing going? I have been busy playing around with different gear combos. I have now fitted 40x65 which gives me a FDR of 4.2 and run the silver can. The car flies on the straights, but lost a bit of acceleration in the corners. See how that goes in the next race.

chrisestt01

Litleleon, you will learn a lot from reading all about car handling. Try http://www.rctek.com/handling/index.html and http://users.pandora.be/elvo/ for starters. Then it is practice, practice, practice. You can never get enough of that. It is better to start slow and learn to follow the ideal line, than going fast all over the place. In racing, the driver who makes the least mistakes, not the fastest one, usually wins.

littleleon

Thanks a lot for the links. I'll have a read.

I'm currently running the Tamiya Racing Slicks (Medium I think).The stock tires I wore through within a couple of weeks of bashing and just generally getting used to running the car. I'll post some pics when I can. The track is indoor but it is asphalt. Super smooth.

My car is fairly well hopped up. I've got Ball diff in the rear, and one way diff on the front, Tamiya "Blue" Dampers, ball bearings, adjustable everything (that I could get), aluminium shaft, sway-bars, carbon upper deck, .. and a few others. Currently waiting on some shafts so that I can install my aluminium front and rear knuckles.

I know that I was a little light on braking, given the one-way diff on the front, too much on the brake and it goes all "ballerina" on me.

There was another car there, and man, it was quick. I watched him for ages and got to know the right lines. The one thing I did realise was that the faster you go, the harder the crash. Even my crashes seemed slow in comparison.

Its probably a good thing that I'm in Japan, the parts are cheap and available I'm going to need a lot I feel.

Thanks for your advice.