TIGER76

That 10t motor should be insanely fast m8 the rz/bz are only 23turn motors,my method 17 is fast at least 30mph+ with a 10t motor you should see 35+ it could be either that ESC or try a bigger size battery,when u say you only get a minute runtime makes me think its the ESC as even with that nicad battery you should still see 10mins plus.
Does the ESC heatup after a run? as the motor limit is VERY close to the ESC limit i usually have a few turns extra ie my 17t motor = 15 turn esc etc
The esc could be thermaling from too much power for the motor can you try the silver can motor on that esc and see what runtime you get??

nitrosportsandrunner

is the xl-10 in training mode..lol?!
i have a xl5, witha 15t motor and it(in my rusty) and a 2000 mah battery is much slower than my 3300 batteries(both are radioshack batts) so, i would say that you should have at least a 3300mah battery. a motor like that one requires a really good battery to run right.

chrisestt01

There is no easy way to fix this. You have to be very systematic and check everything. It is caused by either binding or incorrect adjustment.

To check for binding you will have to take of all dog bones and spin each wheel. Check that they are spinning freely. While you do that check that the rims are not wobbling. Reinstall the dogbones and spin each wheel again. Check that one side of a diff is not binding. Check the rear diff too. Disconnect the steering rod from your servo and centre the servo. Make sure that your radio puts the servo in the centre position when you release the steering wheel. Disconnect the arm that connects the two tie rods. Move each wheel from left to right and check for binding. Binding could be in the ball connectors, steering bearings and the steering knuckle bushings. You have to check each one of them.

Now you check your adjustments. You will need a caliper to check that the length of your tie rods are exactly the same. Check that the gap in the adjustable upper arms are the same. Check that the ride height is the same at both front wheels and both rear wheels (front and rear do not have to be the same though). It is remotely possible that the alignment of your suspension arms and wheel knuckles are out. To check this, swap left and right and see if the car pulls to the other side.

The only other thing left is torque steering which occurs when you have a powerful motor and throttle up fast. You can check this by throttling up slowly.

Good luck

stevenxowens792

Are there different types of tt-01 models out there? I was looking at purchasing one. I may track race a bit and drift. I looked online to start researching and purchase prices and I noticed that you have a ferrari tt-01 that is only 159 bucks RTR. Then you have a bunch of models around the 190-200 range rtr. Then the drift models 230 rtr.

What is the difference between these? Can you make a basic tt-01 into a drifter? I like the tt-01 with LEDs (are these the headlights?)? Can you make these into drifters?

Thanks for your patience and effort.

SXO792

TIGER76

Wheres my reply gone mods!?!?!

gmbnj

Just built my subaru tt-01 and I can not decide on which motor to get.

I will be using the stock ESC that came with it.

How are the Tamiya motors, the GT or RZ? What about the trinity stock? What do you guys use that will not blow the ESC?

Thank you in advance


Gregg

TIGER76

The GT or RZ will be fine m8 ive used down to a 17turn on the tam ESC with no problems,i found a 21turn nice on the standard ESC til you get a lower turn ESC

UltraDrifter

No heatup to the esc either the motor.I focus the problem at the low mah battery as you think too.So I have to buy two packs from tower hobbies where i use to make my purchases.Have you something in mind to take a look at?e-shop/link with low cost battery packs/Thanks.

osr

I just ordered a Mamba Max.....[>:]


It was either that or lower my gearing..... [sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

now as i don't have a lipo charger im on the lookout for a 12 cell nimh.....woooot !

TIGER76

Sweet dont forget a nice video when setup m8 all the ones on utube of TT brushless are crap []
maybe some street runs so we can see what the TT can do
which did you order m8 the 5700?

roadracerx

Hello all have not been on in quite a while,
Just wanted to show off some pics of my sons new car we bought it second hand on the bay, rtr drift spec Rx-7.

Have just painted 2 new bodys for our cars, have al ook the lambo body i got for $4.00 and the GT-R was $20.00 it's an original tamiya lightweight body not sure if I'm going to put the calsonic stickers on I like the plain look, anybody else got the calsonic with pics?
anway cheers
RacerX & Son

osr

Yeah ordered the 5700 and as soon as it's in and configured im going to the beach to test it. The one i go to is huge at low tide so it'll be a great test. If it looks fast there then i'll be very pleased. At the moment my Tamiya TZ looks about as fast as a donkey when i take it somewhere big and open.

I'll have to see if wifey will come and hold the camera

drevil

My Feedback: (5)

Can anyone tell me the best way to get the TT01 to handle more predictably? Last year I bought my brother a TT01 and compared to my TA04 is had pretty unpredictable handling. I'm not certain if it has to do with the sloppy suspension this car has or the lack of oil filled shocks. I'd like to hear from those who have noticed the twitchy handling that this car has and what they've done to fix it.

TIGER76

I gave up with the handling m8 tried all the hopups out got rid of the sloppy steering but still drives like a drunk blind donkey lol
Really think tamiya boobooed the steering on the tt really even worst at high speeds if u hit anything larger than a pea it takes to the air lmao

chrisestt01

This is the holy grail: getting predictable handling at all speeds. Obviously at low speed it is easier that at high speed. There is no magic bullet for this. The TT-01 is not designed to be a racer. It is OK at low speed with the standard gearing. If you want to go faster then you could spend a fortune on hop ups and never get it right. You have to start with understanding the steering process. It is fairly complicated and there are many aspects that influence one and another. Start with reading up. Go to http://users.pandora.be/elvo/. Then try one thing at a time on the track that you use until you understand what it does to the steering. You will find that your setup will be different than someone else at the same track, because you have a different driving style. Nothing wrong with that. I got mine to run almost as solid as on rails and using 4.23 gearing and silver can it easily keeps up/beats higher end cars. So it can be done. Good luck.

m52 power!

Please read, I know it's long. I'll paypal you $5 if you have a solution, serious!

I've had my tt-01 for about a year. It's fitted with a mamba max BL motor and ESC, ball diffs, ball bearings alum torque tube/main shaft etc.

For the longest time everything ran great! I could beat the crap out of it and it would take it, it was a blast.

Then I installed some aftermarket torque tube/main shaft "knuckles". The joints at the end of the torque tube/main shaft that go into the gearboxes. They're made of aluminum and anodized blue.

They didn't fit very well at all! While driving when I hammer the throttle or brake hard it made this "clicking noise" like going over rocks. I found out the location of the noise, the main diff bevel gear was skipping across the input differential gear!

By this point my ball diffs bevel gears were destroyed and I was very unhappy.

Since then I replaced the ball diffs and the bevel gears in the gear box, this time using the stock OEM knuckles that connect the torque tube/main shaft.

Still the exact same problem, the diff bevel gears skipped across each other eventually stripping the gears completely.

Ok, I triple check that everything is installed correctly, it is. Order new diffs and bevel gears AGAIN. This time I also bought new differential housings in case they were somehow cracked/bent/weak in some way I couldn't find.

Just finished putting everything together, I go outside and do a couple passes. Damn this thing is fast, I was happy.

After a couple minutes the HORRIBLE "skipping over rocks" noise is back under hard accel/decel. I immediately take it inside to tear it down to find the diffs stripped again. I'm very frustrated at this point and am almost considering buying a completely different chassis.

I know I'm putting a lot of power through this simple chassis but it CAN take it! I ran it for the longest period ever and it was a blast. Until I "upgraded" to the aftermarket dinball knuckle joint shafts for the main shaat I had no problems. Now the problem is back even though I replaced everything in the effected area.

Please Help!
-Chris

dfiantii

Chris,
Anyway you can post some pictures of the damage? Sounds like some how your ball diff gears are not seating properly with the shaft drive bevel gear and the clicking noise is the skipping of the gears. Please if you can take some pictures maybe we can help you figure this out. I know when i replaced my stock gears with ball diffs and metal dogbones/ or outdrives whatever I had to put a small rubber oring in the ball cups to take up the play so they would not chatter but I am sure one of the gurus in this forum will come along and maybe figure it out but some pics might help also.

TIGER76

Id guess it was the mamba setup doing the damage the TT wasnt really built for BL

osr

Hi Chris.

1) Have you modded your bumper holders at all, to heighten the supension travel ? Resulting in your drive shafts being able to go lower than normal. If you have, you should be able to see the problem straight away if you put the car on a block and turn the wheels, they will have a cogging effect if they are too low.


2) Do you have an alloy prop shaft ? these can be shorter and sometimes longer from, what i have read, than the stock plastic ones. Allowing lots more play, if shorter or putting more pressure, if longer, on the drive train and the prop shaft cups, allowing the bevel gear to move.

3)Have you checked the diff housing, chassis side as well really carfully for cracks, specifically where the bearings sit. Also the bearings themselves to ensure thay are all as should be. Maybe you have a crack in the diff housing allowing movement under pressure. Maybe one of your bearings is knackered causing intermittent sticking.

4)When i 'upgraded' to GPM wheel knuckles/uprights and their steel universal shafts i had to shorten my diff cups as the the new parts made the drive train too long and put too much pressure on the diffs. Not related to your issue i would think but maybe you have those bits too and the problem took longer to effect you....

If none of that helps then check everywhere on your car for cracks or stress, are you certain you didn't change anything else at the same time as the prop cups, no matter how you think it might not be involved .....like a 3s Lipo or something !

If it used to work and now doesn't then something is not as it used to be.


Best of.

osr

Ill let you know, i have a 5700 on order...and a 3s lipo [&:]

TIGER76

Cool best order a spare chassis too lol
you buying from BPM site m8??

osr

I figured maybe the chassis would be the only thing that might not get affected ! hehe. We'll see, i plan on testing it at littlestone beach, huge expanse of open flat sand. The place makes my car feel so slow right now so im really looking forward to trying this out.

Yeah i ordered from bpm. Is there something i should know ? you've worried me now....

Raguvian

Road racer x, where did you get those white wheels? Did you get them with the Focus? I really like them.

TIGER76

no m8 bpm cheapest place for us brits they even stamp it as gift to avoid customs too lol
I was thinking with all that power maybe the chassis would end up warping hehe

roadracerx

Yes mate the wheels are the original focus wheels and i made up the red pin stripes,
thanks for the comment
Cheers
RacerX