Mad Wax

Couple of problems.

I've tried to get the servo push rods at the exact length with steering central, so the screws that fit into the servo saver go straight through, even still there is a little bit of chatter with TX centred and not being touched. Sometimes the chatter stops. I'm using a Y lead from second channel into both.

Also I cannot get the servo points exact parrarel to each other (90' from body, outwards) so I've done this. I thought since as one pulls, the other pushes, so I angled the two differently (one servo one notch up, other servo one notch down)

I could never get my 2nd Marder servos to be totally quiet at standstill, but my first Marder was.

One thing I like about channel EPA- I can set the maximum level of brake, and transmitter won't send past that amount (so servo does not strain pulling the brake too much- I can set it to maximum braking.

R/C Modelsport

I always replace the threaded tie-rod material for some nice Titanium Tie-Rods from Lunsford. As far as the servo horns go, you will need to find a set that equal up. Flipping the servo horn around 180 degrees sometimes works or trying a different set will work. The teeth are molded in at varying angles it seems like. Also you could try a radio that had servo mixing that allows you to independently set the trim for channel 1 thru 4 and eliminate the "Y" harness all together. The M11 does a fantastic job for brake mixing channels 3 and 4. Havent tried it for channels 1 and 2 but I think it would work in the same fashion.

JRexA

For my cheap servo(2xJamara 21kg/cm) setup I used two identical two horned servo horns, and the cut of the horns that would have interfered with each other.
That gave me Two servo horns that was perfectly alligned, when the Servos is centered.

I still have to experiment a bit with the mounting in order to get the servos to work together, and not against each other....

jimbo1890

I had the same setup as JrexA except I had 4way horns on mine that had the three unused arms cut off.

Definitely worth trying

ibstar

should be ok
you need a servo programmer to get them absolutly spot on.
mine (single) hum's somethimes on switch on, just move steering and let centre and it stops.

Mad Wax

Cheers actually knew of 3rd channel feature mixing, but I wanted to use 1 channel for both servos - since 3 is reserved for the battery checker, I did try one servo on ch3 had some problems, but managed to get it working - no servo chatter at all now.

But 3rd channel is now used, cannot connect LED checker, still need a Y lead. Stupid only a 3 channel RX and no dedicated battery checker output.

However I could do with more stiffer servo horns, the supplied ones are a bit weedy. Anyone know of a part number & supplier of single side alloy servo horns for Hitec 705? I'll also try and get servo horns exact (one servo is +10 to stop chattering)

And I need metal shielded spark cap for Zenoah GS260RC.

jimbo1890

You can get the plug cap from your local auto parts store. It is listed in the BOSCH IGNITION PARTS catalogue there is even a picture.