badazzbusa

My Feedback: (1)

I just got a new firehammer. I had alot of trouble getting it started at first, they call for a 25:1 mix rate for the first two tanks. After 100 tries at starting that thing I added more fuel to make the mix around 33:1 and it started in 4 pulls. I think the high needle is set wrong. The book doesn't list any needle settings so I was wondering what other firehammer owners had theirs set at? I'm pretty much at sea level.

radio_controlled_mad

the high needle does not effect the starting "h" needle is for amount of fuel at high speeds ""L" is for amount of fuel at low speeds - the mix of oil to petrol will not stop it from starting all together the engine will just will run crap if aint right or seize if run to lean for a long period of time.if the idle screw is to far out it wont start - try closeing it off all together (clockwise) then turning it out 1 fulll turn - if that works turn the idle in and out whilst running till the you get the engine ticking over without over reving.if the engine dies at slow speed open the l needle 1/4 turn at a time - you will here the engine when its set correct - if it does the same at high speeds repeat the process on the "h" needle. basic starting point i think is "L" 1 1/4 turns out "h" 1 1/2 turns out - that increases if you have added tuned pipe & filter = "L" 1 1/4 "H" 1 3/4

badazzbusa

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks, The mix was to rich for it to start, like I said it started right up after leaning the oil/fuel mixture out. It now runs fine but sounds a little rich while running. I wasn't sure if it's still because of the rich oil to fuel mixture and just needs to be broken in or if the high needle was off. The factory setting is 1 3/4 turns on the high , the low end seems to run fine and it idles fine. It's still all stock for now. Do you have a pipe on yours? Does it help alot? Thanks.

kengentry5000

My Feedback: (2)

Great info wakey. My Firehammer starts pretty easily (almost exactly like my Homelite-brand weed eater).

- Set Choke lever (pointing down on my model)
- Push primer bulb a few times until it appears you are pumping fuel into the engine (2 - 5 times)
- Pull cord a few times and you should hear it try to start.
- Return choke lever to run position (pointing toward front of car on my model)
- Pull cord once or twice more and motor should start running.

With the exception of the time I think I blew dust into my ignition coil, the starting procedure has been roughly the same (and easy).

I have been tempted to adjust my high speed screw up some because it sounds like my engine is not winding out all the way (the throttle is being pulled all the way by the servo). How do I know I am at safe operating level for the engine? (When the cylinder head pops off? :-)

Good luck,
Ken

radio_controlled_mad

i think most of the guys would agree adding a tuned pipe and decent air filter is a huge dif in power over stock - but keep in mind you prob need to tune the carb a bit more once fitted - another good hop up is decent lsd diff - thats the first things i changed before the alloy ect.but keep stock parts for a while as there new - run them into the ground till your sure you want to spend that kind of cash on tuned parts as it will bankrupt you once you start hopping up.theres few pics in my gallery what i have done to mine.

kengentry5000

My Feedback: (2)

What is an "lsd diff"? Is lsd a brand or are you just "trippin'" man? ;-)

Ken

radio_controlled_mad

i did that in my teens lsd diff is limeted slip differential i think theres 2 fg ones that will fit marder or fire hammer ect - the stock ones fitted are ok but fit an adjustable lsd they spread the power over the back wheels better - handles faster corners so on - but its not a part i would change till the other was run into the ground.

the dif in the pic is made by kpd prob cost around £250 if not more (it aint mine just pasted it off ebay) new fg ones are around £150

kengentry5000

My Feedback: (2)

Thank you for the explanation. I will put that on my wish list. I still have this feeling that an Elcon alloy front end is my best first 'big' investment. A pipe would make my Firehammer go faster, but that would probably translate into breaking more plastic parts faster :-). The upgraded diff will definitely come later as needed.

I saw a tip on the Mozler R&D (Sandy?) web site where a spacer (10 mm) was inserted between the chassis plate and the rear bulkheads, raising the diff by 10 mm. A spacer of equivalent height is also required for the triangular bracket's front hole above the diff. This allowed the diff ring gear to ride higher allowing debris to fall out better. I also am having trouble with my diff riding low and chewing up the plastic diff cover on the bottom of the chassis plate. Raising the diff should make this problem go away.

Anybody have an opinion (positive or negative) on raising the diff this way?

Ken

radio_controlled_mad

my marder has been fully converted with elcon alloy - more expensive than the fg alloy but is a better grade and stronger as well as much much better looking - you mention your intrested in elcon - the elcon diff blocks are raised and higher than stock parts so there is no need to buy diff raiser - saves money.looks good and gives a better drive train - might be one of the 1st parts to change if your already thinking about alloy.

badazzbusa

My Feedback: (1)

Wakey, Thanks again for the info. Your ride looks real nice. I think I'll leave the high end rich for a couple of tanks then set it back to 1 1/2 turns if it doesn't seem to smooth out at 50:1. Like I said it runs fine now but sounds a little rich and blowing some oil on the body. This is my first gas car but I have 2 50cc planes so just trying to make sure it's at it's best performance since I don't have anything to compare it to.

Mad Wax

If you're going to upgrade the entire car to alloy (entire front end, servo saver, rc plate, engine mounts, gear system, entire rear end) it woud work out cheaper to buy a all alloy car from the get go. Work out how much it'll cost to upgrade your car- last time I worked it out much more expensive than a Hormann (which is already full alloy)

So IMO use this stock model as it is- if you do buy alloy don't go mad. Then buy a all alloy car in a few years time.

radio_controlled_mad

if its running just break engine in on a couple of tanks on half throttle then start adjusting the "h" neelde anti clock wise (rich) if its dyeing at full throttle or move it clockwise (lean) till it does dye then move it back a touch that should be set - you can also tell if its over rich by putting your hand or cloth next to the exhaust pipe - if its blowing a hell of alot of black crap out then its to rich and lean it down a little - your always going to get some crap coming out though as u do with all 2 strokes.

radio_controlled_mad

your correct - its works out much cheaper - i got into large scale when i bought a clapped out marder off a freind 2 yrs ago ragged it then sold it on,bought myself a new marder race and promised myself i wouldnt buy or change anything as it was all new - but within a month or so i was hopping it up and once you change one thing before you know it youve spent a fortune,the only thing left from my marder race is the shocks,cv ball drive and chassi - the rest got stuck on ebay to pay for more hop ups.i started a leopard 2 month ago but have from scratch but miles off it been finished,but this time im doin what i shud of done in 1st place and buy parts i want bit by bit as & when i can afford them