crashtestdummie

Proud owner of a Honey Bee esky CP2 2005 , I have the following problem : The swashplate has got a kind of pin. This pin is inserted in a vertical space, to keep the swash in position when it moves. When I reach the radio corner (full right - or left + rear with the right stick - mode 2), the pin gets out of its space and gets rigth (or left) outside. This blends the pin and gets the swash out of its normal position []. I tried to shorten all rods. It doesn't seems to be a good idea, because the swashplate is then too low and it gives the blades a hudge pitch. Would this pin be 2 mm longer, I would'nt have this problem. Do someone have an idea ? Thank you anyway. Great Forum ! cheers. G.

predman

My Feedback: (7)

I moved my swashdown just until it wouldnt come out then adjusted the pitch,works awesome!!!!

mowmer

Had the same problem with mine. I took a small stainless pin I use for pinning things to styrofoam. Instead of the pin having a round head, the one I used has a flat T shaped head. (Got it at a craft store ) its about one inch long. I then inverted the heli and glued the pin to the underside of the swashplate (T shaped head toward the main axis shaft. ). Do not glue it to the top of the swashplate, there might not be enough clearance for the rotor head to spin. The hardest part of this is finding away to keep the heli inverted until the glue dries. I used a smalll basket which I could lay the inverted heli on until the glue dryed. Also make small scratches in the plastic where the pin will go so the glue will hold better. Use a good glue I used a polyurathane glue which has held up well. U can also cut the pin down if its too long, last you can't take the swashplate off and do this because you will not be able to get the swashplate back on with the pin sticking out. I posted this same problem aweek ago and no one replied to it so this is the best I could come up with. Maybe someone had a better way of fixing this problem?

crashtestdummie

Thank you for your help ! I'll try both.

(Please, esky, think of 2mm more plastic [>:])

cheers. G

stockcp2

hmm dont quote me on this, but the anti-rotation pin on the Blade CP swashplate looked longer at the LHS, but I didn't have my CP2 swash handy to compare..... =P

I had this exact same problem. I worked on it for hours and still I could pop the anti-rotation pin off track using the TX. I ended up taking some plastic clips off of an old 486 CPU fan which were already small. I shaped them with an exacto knife to ~roughly 2mm tall, 3mm wide and 15mm long and then matched them up with the inner track edge very nicely. I also have a slant carved on the edges which are closer to swash itself so as to not cause binding during all combinations of elevator/aileron movement. The slant was not carved to deep as to prevent the anti-rotation pin from being able to slide up its slope. The swash can twist and move freely as before. I also have a square notch in the foot of each of them so as to accomodate for how the frame is designed down at the bottom where the canopy (cabin) pin is mounted. This way its aligned with the track all the way to the bottom. The new plastic doesn't stretch the full length to the top end of the track, because its not needed on that end. I used plasti zap ca++ to adhere them.

I dont have a digital camera otherwise I would have saved a few keystrokes.

edit:
for those that may adopt this idea another good reason to not run the plastic all the way to the top of the track is so that the swash plate removal process is the same.

wadesie93

My Feedback: (11)

On the esky pin coming out of the track the fix is very easy and there are no mods needed. The servo's have tooooo much throw and allow the pin to come out. Simply move you linkage to the second hole in on the white servo arms this will still allow full movement and wont allow the pin to escape the track. The easiest way to insert the linkage into the holes on the arms is to warm the metal linkage slightly with a lighter or soldering iron and push it threw. My buddy and I spent alot of time to figure this out and it works great.

stockcp2

When you say "Simply move you linkage to the second hole in on the white servo arms" do you mean

here?

o
() o o o o o
^ o

or here?

o
() o o o o o
^ o

wadesie93

My Feedback: (11)

tryed to copy it and it didnt work but the second one you have there.

stockcp2

Well no matter. I am glad that I asked for even though I felt the second one made more sense, by description, it was kinda up for grabs. I plan on using this idea if I ever have to replace my main frame.

oh and I held the ALT key down and typed 0 1 6 0 on the Numerical pad and it prints a half space which seems to work here on the boards, lol.... Thanks again.

stockcp2

edit: wasn't the issue, i finally dumped the training gear