Loctite & Instruction Manual question
11-15-2005, 11:41 PM
#51
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RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question
You mean since its going clockwise, the leading edge of the rotor blade should be pointed to the right as you look at it from the top, correct?
11-16-2005, 10:36 AM
#52
RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question
Standing behind the helicopter with the tail facing you the main rotor should turn clock wise. With the blades at 9 and 3 oclock the trailing edge of the 9 oclock blade (the thin part) and the leading edge of the 3 oclock blade (the fat part) shoud be facing you. The paddles should be oriented the same way.
The tail rotor when viewed looking at the right side of the helicopter, tail to the left, nose right should turn counter clockwise.
The tail rotor when viewed looking at the right side of the helicopter, tail to the left, nose right should turn counter clockwise.
11-16-2005, 12:55 PM
#53
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RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question
Yeah, I got all that part right, its easy enough, Bernoulli's Principle and all. The hard part is reading my transmitter instruction manual and then making sure that the pitch servo's arent reversed. So as I throttle up the pitch on the main blades should do what? Increase or decrease the angle of attack? I'm guessing as the throttle goes up, the blades angle of attack increases, which gives them more lift, but then again the blades rotate in opposite directions do they not? Like if one has the front edge move down then the other one has the front edge move up...confusing.
Dan
Dan
11-16-2005, 01:11 PM
#54
RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question
Ok here goes.
As you increase lift on the main blades (by increasing the collective) you also increase the drag. So to maintain a constant head speed you have to increase the throttle at the same time. As the collective pitch comes down, so does the power requirement.
So to answer your question, in normal mode at idle the the throttle barrel should be nearly closed, the engine at idle and the blades at minus 2 degrees. As you increase the throttle stick the throttle barrel should open and the blade pitch angle should increase. At half stick you going to have positive 5 degrees of pitch and half throttle, at full stick 9 degrees and full throttle. This should give you a hover around half stick.
If you move the collective both blades should increase pitch. If you move the cyclic one will increase and one will decrease pitch, this is more pronounced on the flybar though. The flybar paddles shouldnt move when you give more or less collective (except for drag in the head links, if you hold it it should stay still)
As you increase lift on the main blades (by increasing the collective) you also increase the drag. So to maintain a constant head speed you have to increase the throttle at the same time. As the collective pitch comes down, so does the power requirement.
So to answer your question, in normal mode at idle the the throttle barrel should be nearly closed, the engine at idle and the blades at minus 2 degrees. As you increase the throttle stick the throttle barrel should open and the blade pitch angle should increase. At half stick you going to have positive 5 degrees of pitch and half throttle, at full stick 9 degrees and full throttle. This should give you a hover around half stick.
If you move the collective both blades should increase pitch. If you move the cyclic one will increase and one will decrease pitch, this is more pronounced on the flybar though. The flybar paddles shouldnt move when you give more or less collective (except for drag in the head links, if you hold it it should stay still)
11-20-2005, 05:07 AM
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RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question
Ok, I got the bottom end to -2 degrees, mid stick to 5 degrees, but full throttle is at like 14 degrees. How do I bring full throttle down to 9 degrees and not affect the other two measurements?
Dan
Dan
11-20-2005, 05:39 AM
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RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question
I believe to have found the answer, set the end point of servo movement! Does this sound right? I got like 2 gallons of fuel and I cant friggin wait to try this thing out. After I figure out all this setup I'm going to install the copilot and then hopefully only have to balance the blades.
Dan
Dan
11-20-2005, 06:44 AM
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RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question
Also I've been trying to find that post on collective pitch curve. My radio is set up like this
1 0%
2 25%
3 50%
4 75%
5 100%
Is that about accurate?
Throttle curve and revo mixing have me a little confused as well.
What should I use for hi and low revo mixing?
Thanks,
Dan
1 0%
2 25%
3 50%
4 75%
5 100%
Is that about accurate?
Throttle curve and revo mixing have me a little confused as well.
What should I use for hi and low revo mixing?
Thanks,
Dan
11-20-2005, 08:46 AM
#58
RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question
Revo mixing is easy, if you have a heading hold gyro disable it. Other wise you'll have to experement.
As for pitch setup. You want your end points as close to 100 or a little above as you can and EQUAL on both sides. Try for about 11 or 12 degrees top and bottom, if you have more move the rod in on the servo and try again, you can even go a little higher on the atvs as long as they are equal. You want zero degrees pitch at mid stick and the linkage 90 degrees to the servo arm. If you cant get the 90 degrees if its a 4 prong arm, rotate the arm 90 degrees at a time till you get the one thats closest. You could also use a wheel and drill a hole right where you want it. After you get the blades at zero at mid stick, and the top and bottom throws equal, then use the pitch curve for setting where you want the pitch at which stick position. If its set up right, your 3d curve will be pretty equal on either side of 50 for both top, bottom and 1/4 and 3/4 stick positions. For example if your good your mid stick point will always be 50 percent and zero degrees. If you need 90 percent to give you 9 degrees at top then your bottom should be 10 precent and -9 degrees and if your 5 degree 3/4 stick point is say 70 percent then your bottom 1/4 stick point at -5 should be 30 percent.
Hope that makes sense.
What kind of gyro do you have? If your smart and its a 401 or 500T you wont have to worry about revo.
As for pitch setup. You want your end points as close to 100 or a little above as you can and EQUAL on both sides. Try for about 11 or 12 degrees top and bottom, if you have more move the rod in on the servo and try again, you can even go a little higher on the atvs as long as they are equal. You want zero degrees pitch at mid stick and the linkage 90 degrees to the servo arm. If you cant get the 90 degrees if its a 4 prong arm, rotate the arm 90 degrees at a time till you get the one thats closest. You could also use a wheel and drill a hole right where you want it. After you get the blades at zero at mid stick, and the top and bottom throws equal, then use the pitch curve for setting where you want the pitch at which stick position. If its set up right, your 3d curve will be pretty equal on either side of 50 for both top, bottom and 1/4 and 3/4 stick positions. For example if your good your mid stick point will always be 50 percent and zero degrees. If you need 90 percent to give you 9 degrees at top then your bottom should be 10 precent and -9 degrees and if your 5 degree 3/4 stick point is say 70 percent then your bottom 1/4 stick point at -5 should be 30 percent.
Hope that makes sense.
What kind of gyro do you have? If your smart and its a 401 or 500T you wont have to worry about revo.
11-20-2005, 09:01 AM
#60
RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question
Ok thats a piezo gyro.
As you increase the throttle and pitch on a helicopter the fuselage wants to spin the opposite direction. Thats what the tail rotor is for, to keep it from spinning. A tandem rotor like a chinook has two main rotors spinning opposite directions so the torque cancels each other out. If you decrease the power the helicopter comes down and produces less torque so the tail rotor (unless you change its pitch) wants to spin the fuselage the other way. Its all a giant balancing act.
What revo mixing does is add a bit of tail rotor pitch as you add power and takes a bit away as you decrease power. So your main rotor spins clockwise, and right rudder (tail rotor) will make the nose spin to the right (clock wise) As you add power your nose is going to want to go to the left so you need more right tail rotor to compensate. So turn revo on, and give throttle and watch the tail blades, if they go the same direction as giving right stick does its good to go, decrease power and the servo should move like your giving left stick. You will have to flight test it to figure out how much to give, for example if you add power and the nose rotates too far to the right you will have to take away some percentage of revo, if you add power and it turns left you will need more mixing.
As you increase the throttle and pitch on a helicopter the fuselage wants to spin the opposite direction. Thats what the tail rotor is for, to keep it from spinning. A tandem rotor like a chinook has two main rotors spinning opposite directions so the torque cancels each other out. If you decrease the power the helicopter comes down and produces less torque so the tail rotor (unless you change its pitch) wants to spin the fuselage the other way. Its all a giant balancing act.
What revo mixing does is add a bit of tail rotor pitch as you add power and takes a bit away as you decrease power. So your main rotor spins clockwise, and right rudder (tail rotor) will make the nose spin to the right (clock wise) As you add power your nose is going to want to go to the left so you need more right tail rotor to compensate. So turn revo on, and give throttle and watch the tail blades, if they go the same direction as giving right stick does its good to go, decrease power and the servo should move like your giving left stick. You will have to flight test it to figure out how much to give, for example if you add power and the nose rotates too far to the right you will have to take away some percentage of revo, if you add power and it turns left you will need more mixing.
11-20-2005, 09:21 AM
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RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question
In another post right above your last one didnt you say go for -2, 5, and 9 degrees? I can get that np, zero at half stick is giving me problems.
Dan
Dan
11-20-2005, 10:11 AM
#62
RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question
Yes thats true but remember you have different flight modes or idle ups. Do your setup in idle up one so you get the symetrical pitch set up right. Once you get it correct mechanically and your end points equal, then use your pitch curve points to set the -2, 5 and 9 is gong to be your normal mode pitch curve and where you learn to fly. As you progress you will start using your idle up but if you get it set up that way to begin with, all you have to do is modify your pitch points.
11-20-2005, 11:49 AM
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RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question
Man I'm starting to get excited. I just installed the co-pilot and everything works, but I'm going to tackle its set up tomorrow. I'm also gonna have to try to get mid stick to 0 degrees like you said. Whats the correct way to make the adjustment? Shorten the rod? Try different holes? Radio setting? Doing all this alone is taking forever, but I think I'm learning more than if someone helped me, though it still would be nice. Also, zip ties = GOLD.
Dan
Dan
11-20-2005, 02:16 PM
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RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question
In reading your posts above, I get the feeling that you are not clear on the difference between mechanical adjustment of your pitch range, and electronic adjustment (your pitch curve). Mechanically, you want your pitch range over 100% of servo movement, to range from -10 to +10 degrees. This is your mechanical range.
Your pitch curves, defined in your transmitter, tell the servos what part of the mechanical range to use, and at what stick positions. In all radios that I know of, pitch curves are defined by percent of total servo throw, where 0% is -10 degrees of pitch, 50% is the mid point at 0 degrees of pitch, and 100% is +10 degrees of pitch.
Various radios allow you to define several points on the pitch curve with some allowing three points (bottom, middle and top), and some allowing five points (cutting the same range into five parts). If you want -2, 5, and 9, you would use the approximate numbers in a three-point curve of 40, 75, and 100 percent. All transmitters allow you to set up multiple pitch/throttle curves selectable by a mode switch. The actual numbers that you use must be determined by using your pitch guage with the stick in the position you want to measure, and adjusting the pitch curve point until the pitch guage reads correctly.
I hope that I have managed to clear up this concept in your mind.
Your pitch curves, defined in your transmitter, tell the servos what part of the mechanical range to use, and at what stick positions. In all radios that I know of, pitch curves are defined by percent of total servo throw, where 0% is -10 degrees of pitch, 50% is the mid point at 0 degrees of pitch, and 100% is +10 degrees of pitch.
Various radios allow you to define several points on the pitch curve with some allowing three points (bottom, middle and top), and some allowing five points (cutting the same range into five parts). If you want -2, 5, and 9, you would use the approximate numbers in a three-point curve of 40, 75, and 100 percent. All transmitters allow you to set up multiple pitch/throttle curves selectable by a mode switch. The actual numbers that you use must be determined by using your pitch guage with the stick in the position you want to measure, and adjusting the pitch curve point until the pitch guage reads correctly.
I hope that I have managed to clear up this concept in your mind.
11-20-2005, 04:10 PM
#66
RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question
Your welcome and wisdom seeker is correct. Actually the the pitch range depends on your mechanics, some can get more some less but ideal is +- 9 or 10 degrees. You also have to make sure that you don't have more than about 6 degrees of pitch added by your cyclic inputs. Any more than 16 or 17 degrees total pitch (collective plus cyclic) and you will stall the blade no matter how much ***** your engine has.
Your pitch range and 0 degree adjustment is going to be a combonation of rod length, pitch servo out put wheel position on the spline and the length of the collective rods going from the swash to the main blades. You want to ideally achieve 0 degrees pitch, with the rod 90 degrees to the servo arm and zero sub trim and equal throws on both sides, plus and minus, with no binding. As you are seeing setup is more time consuming than building. If you get it set up though, a well set up cheap helicopter will out perform a poorly setup machine with the best and most expensive of everthing any day of the week.
As for pitch and throttle curves you want to reach a point where as you increase pitch the throttle increases at the same times and the blades maintain a constant head speed. You also want to descend and not have the blades over speed. To make things just a hair more confusing. Pitch and throttle curves only work correctly if the engine is tuned well too. Right now your head is probably ready to explode but remember, if the engine is running rich, and your not getting the top performance out of your heli, when your learning to fly it wont be a big deal, as you gain flying experiance you will gain a feel for your machine and an ear for what sounds right and what doesnt.
What your doing is very hard, flying solo with no local help, and on my end its hard translating some of this stuff from me pointing and showing to the written word but keep asking questions and I'll keep trying to make it all make sense.
Andy
Your pitch range and 0 degree adjustment is going to be a combonation of rod length, pitch servo out put wheel position on the spline and the length of the collective rods going from the swash to the main blades. You want to ideally achieve 0 degrees pitch, with the rod 90 degrees to the servo arm and zero sub trim and equal throws on both sides, plus and minus, with no binding. As you are seeing setup is more time consuming than building. If you get it set up though, a well set up cheap helicopter will out perform a poorly setup machine with the best and most expensive of everthing any day of the week.
As for pitch and throttle curves you want to reach a point where as you increase pitch the throttle increases at the same times and the blades maintain a constant head speed. You also want to descend and not have the blades over speed. To make things just a hair more confusing. Pitch and throttle curves only work correctly if the engine is tuned well too. Right now your head is probably ready to explode but remember, if the engine is running rich, and your not getting the top performance out of your heli, when your learning to fly it wont be a big deal, as you gain flying experiance you will gain a feel for your machine and an ear for what sounds right and what doesnt.
What your doing is very hard, flying solo with no local help, and on my end its hard translating some of this stuff from me pointing and showing to the written word but keep asking questions and I'll keep trying to make it all make sense.
Andy
11-20-2005, 11:06 PM
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RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question
barracuda,
I was wondering about the curves myself. I have the throttle curve in normal set a straight diagonal line 0 - 100%. I have the pitch set at the same curve with Low Point at -2deg. and high point at 11deg.
How I understand you, is that I should have set it mechanically so I can achieve full machine potential pitch... and then get the learning setting with my idle up settings??
Should I set NORM Mode at -2, 5.5, 11 / THROTTLE 0-100 - and then IDLE UP 1 at -2, 5.5, 11 / THROTTLE 100-0-100 - and then IDLE UP 2 at -10, 0, 10 / THROTTLE 100-0-100 ?????
This is how I think I understand it.
I had already dialed it in nicely, and then I read this thread...
And I think the guys at my club don't really repect the fact of the 'well set-up machine'.
I want to build and setup a perfect machine... don't care how long it takes.
Raptor 50v2
JR9303 / GY401
-Marc
I was wondering about the curves myself. I have the throttle curve in normal set a straight diagonal line 0 - 100%. I have the pitch set at the same curve with Low Point at -2deg. and high point at 11deg.
How I understand you, is that I should have set it mechanically so I can achieve full machine potential pitch... and then get the learning setting with my idle up settings??
Should I set NORM Mode at -2, 5.5, 11 / THROTTLE 0-100 - and then IDLE UP 1 at -2, 5.5, 11 / THROTTLE 100-0-100 - and then IDLE UP 2 at -10, 0, 10 / THROTTLE 100-0-100 ?????
This is how I think I understand it.
I had already dialed it in nicely, and then I read this thread...
And I think the guys at my club don't really repect the fact of the 'well set-up machine'.
I want to build and setup a perfect machine... don't care how long it takes.
Raptor 50v2
JR9303 / GY401
-Marc
11-20-2005, 11:50 PM
#68
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RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question
Wisdom seeker was correct in his assumption there, but it makes sense now. The hard part is gonna be trying to get my blades to move up 2 degrees at half stick. I was under the impression that changing the rod length was a no no for the most part. The instructions were very specific as to their length and what length to use for 3d or beginners. I'll keep plugging away at it and experimenting with the servo. Something else thats still tickling my tentacles is the actual engine startup. I understand how to do it, but there is a point where the engine is running but the blades arent turning correct? Then you throttle up and they begin spinning. What does that? I'm confused because I dont see an agent that engages the main blades to the engine.
Thanks for the help!
Dan
Thanks for the help!
Dan
11-21-2005, 09:48 AM
#69
RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question
Chewy. If you have a Raptor visit http://www.raptortechnique.com and read read read.
To answer your question, enable idle up one and set your helicopter up so that you get +- 10 or 11 degrees, equal end points, servo rod at 90 degrees and mixing levers level at 1/2 stick. You only need 9 degrees or 10 at the most for normal and idle one. The less total pitch you run the less sensitive your collective stick will be. Throttle hold curve should have as much positive pitch as you can get but no more than 12 degrees. Once you achieve that make all pitch adjustments with your pitch curve. Disable idle one, set normal up for -2, 1, 5, 7, 9 and throttle 0, 25, 50, 75, 100 adjust the engine needle so it hovers at half stick after the motor has been broken in. Depending on how strong your engine is you may have to raise or lower the half stick and 3/4 stick throttle points. When learning DO NOT CHOP THE THROTTLE, smoothly lower it to get it set down if you get in trouble, training sticks will help here.
As you gain comfort lower the lower pitch points a bit till you get to -5 on the bottom and +9 on the top.
Once your comfortable flying around a bit enable idle one, set the throttle to 100,75,50,75,100 with -9 -5 0 5 +9 I also reccomend setting up your normal mode for 3/4 stick hovering at that point so that you don't get a jump going from idle up to normal or the other way around. I don't mess with idle 2, i've never found a need for it, I just inhibit it. Some guys run 3 head speeds. I normally spool up till its light on the skids, flip to idle one and dont mess with it again till I land.
To answer your question, enable idle up one and set your helicopter up so that you get +- 10 or 11 degrees, equal end points, servo rod at 90 degrees and mixing levers level at 1/2 stick. You only need 9 degrees or 10 at the most for normal and idle one. The less total pitch you run the less sensitive your collective stick will be. Throttle hold curve should have as much positive pitch as you can get but no more than 12 degrees. Once you achieve that make all pitch adjustments with your pitch curve. Disable idle one, set normal up for -2, 1, 5, 7, 9 and throttle 0, 25, 50, 75, 100 adjust the engine needle so it hovers at half stick after the motor has been broken in. Depending on how strong your engine is you may have to raise or lower the half stick and 3/4 stick throttle points. When learning DO NOT CHOP THE THROTTLE, smoothly lower it to get it set down if you get in trouble, training sticks will help here.
As you gain comfort lower the lower pitch points a bit till you get to -5 on the bottom and +9 on the top.
Once your comfortable flying around a bit enable idle one, set the throttle to 100,75,50,75,100 with -9 -5 0 5 +9 I also reccomend setting up your normal mode for 3/4 stick hovering at that point so that you don't get a jump going from idle up to normal or the other way around. I don't mess with idle 2, i've never found a need for it, I just inhibit it. Some guys run 3 head speeds. I normally spool up till its light on the skids, flip to idle one and dont mess with it again till I land.
11-21-2005, 09:54 AM
#70
RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question
Dan. First you have a clutch that runs inside a clutch bell called a centrifigual clutch. As you spool up those shoes on the clutch spread out and contact the clutch bell and spin the motor. You should be able to rotate your blades w/o turning over the engine, well the same thing applies while your at idle.
Rod lengths are a starting point and the collective rod can vary a few mm either way depending on what servo you use and other factors. I know this is a pita but........trust me a properly setup heli will make life many times easier. So if you have to extend or shorten the rod to get zero pitch at half stick do so.
Some radios have something called HOVER PIT and HOVER THRO or something similar. They allow you to use knobs to adjust the pitch and throttle around neutral. Either inhibit this if its in the software to do so or make sure before you go any farther that the knobs are centered if infact you have these. Then setup the collective rod so that you have zero degrees at mid stick, and the rod is 90 degrees to the servo arm. Make sure you have equal travel on both sides and no binding. Then see what your top and bottom pitches are. Let me know and we will go from there.
Rod lengths are a starting point and the collective rod can vary a few mm either way depending on what servo you use and other factors. I know this is a pita but........trust me a properly setup heli will make life many times easier. So if you have to extend or shorten the rod to get zero pitch at half stick do so.
Some radios have something called HOVER PIT and HOVER THRO or something similar. They allow you to use knobs to adjust the pitch and throttle around neutral. Either inhibit this if its in the software to do so or make sure before you go any farther that the knobs are centered if infact you have these. Then setup the collective rod so that you have zero degrees at mid stick, and the rod is 90 degrees to the servo arm. Make sure you have equal travel on both sides and no binding. Then see what your top and bottom pitches are. Let me know and we will go from there.
12-04-2005, 02:18 PM
#71
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RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question
AHHH!
Now I've come full circle and I'm back to my original question. Anyway, here's what happend: I tried to start my helicopter for the first time yesterday and something went wrong, terribly wrong... I put in the starter and followed the directions to a T, when all of a sudden, my gears jammed and made a horrible fingernails on chalkboard sound. Upon further investigation, I could see that the gear thats attached to the engine was slipping up when I cranked the engine. So, long story short, no cigar.
I'm thinking that I didnt attach it correctly or that a screw came loose or something. Now, in order to take it apart I have to take out 2 screws on the left and right of the body that I had to use loctite on. I tried getting them off but they wouldnt budge, and I was starting to strip the screws when I finally called it a day.
Now, what could that problem be with the engine locking up when I crank it and how the hell can I get those screws off? Is there something that dissolves loctite? I dont want to resort to drilling out the screws because that is way over my head and will take forever to fix.
Thanks for your help!
Dan
Now I've come full circle and I'm back to my original question. Anyway, here's what happend: I tried to start my helicopter for the first time yesterday and something went wrong, terribly wrong... I put in the starter and followed the directions to a T, when all of a sudden, my gears jammed and made a horrible fingernails on chalkboard sound. Upon further investigation, I could see that the gear thats attached to the engine was slipping up when I cranked the engine. So, long story short, no cigar.
I'm thinking that I didnt attach it correctly or that a screw came loose or something. Now, in order to take it apart I have to take out 2 screws on the left and right of the body that I had to use loctite on. I tried getting them off but they wouldnt budge, and I was starting to strip the screws when I finally called it a day.
Now, what could that problem be with the engine locking up when I crank it and how the hell can I get those screws off? Is there something that dissolves loctite? I dont want to resort to drilling out the screws because that is way over my head and will take forever to fix.
Thanks for your help!
Dan
12-04-2005, 02:35 PM
#72
RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question
You can try heating them with a soldering iron.
A set of JIS screw drivers will help prevent it from happening in the future. JIS = Japanese Industreal Standard they are a better fit to those nipper screws than the standard phillips heads.
A set of JIS screw drivers will help prevent it from happening in the future. JIS = Japanese Industreal Standard they are a better fit to those nipper screws than the standard phillips heads.
12-11-2005, 06:49 AM
#73
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RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question
Hey all! Quick update! I finally got the screws off, and fairly easy too by using a small butane blowtorch to heat the screws. I tore down the whole helicopter and found out that I was right and somehow the whole clutch came loose, and after retightening it and applying more loctite I think its working. I'm going to try to crank her up again this saturday. I'll let you know what happens! Thanks Cuda!
Dan
Dan
12-12-2005, 11:42 PM
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RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question
Another quick question about batteries: I ordered a new receiver battery since that one seems to die first. Does the milliamps / hour make a difference other than how long the battery lasts? I ordered a 1800maH and the one that came with the controller is a 1000maH. I just wanna double tap this one before I fry something this late in the game. Oh and I installed an in-line fuel filter like you suggested. It has a long silver end and a short blue end. Does it matter which way I turn it? Right now I have it blue end going to the engine.
Thanks!
Dan
Thanks!
Dan
12-13-2005, 09:10 AM
#75
RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question
The more Mah the longer the battery will last as long as the voltage is the same. I use a 4000 mah in mine. But you don't need a 100 dollar lithium battery to have fun. I would suggest a volt meter with a load button to put a load on the battery when you test it. Helis are a little harder on batteries than planes since our servos are usually doing something.
As for the fuel filter, if it doesnt have an arrow dont sweat it, as long as you don't turn it around at some point and send the junk in the filter into the engine.
As for the fuel filter, if it doesnt have an arrow dont sweat it, as long as you don't turn it around at some point and send the junk in the filter into the engine.