sydr1234

hello rc universe. Im new to the hobby and need help please!!. Firstly, im stubborn and stupid, dont know anyone in the sport, and wont be joining a club. Here is my issue. I bought a secondhand robbe moskito. I believe the machine is well set up but i have had to get a new transmitter. However, the jargon and complication is driving me mad. Because i am stupid and in experiened the heli is much less forgiving now than it was. please consider the following

Are the EPA just a case of limiting the servo range of movement so as not to overload the servo at a point of over extension?
What is the importance of dual rate settings, and do all of the channels need to be adjusted similarly?
Do EXPONENTIALS soften the inputs (ie for beginners)?
How do i set a pitch or throttle curve for normal flying. Ive heard about degrees, but the controller only seems to show %

I know - another stupid idiot, but i am prepared for success by means of trial and error. Im in this for the long haul and will probably be much more knowledgeable for it. I have a futaba 6exhp radio

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Yes EPA adjusts total servo travel so as to avoid binding. Dont forget that moving the contol in or out on the servo accomplishes the same thing. Ideally you want to use a hole on the servo arm that gives you full motion with the EPA's as close to 100 as possible and equal on both sides. Say 90 and 90 not 75 and 95.

Dual rates and expo can both be used to soften control respones. Dual rates do it by reducing the total travel. Expo does it by having less travel around center and more at the ends. Most of us that need to tone things down just throw some expo in there.

Pitch and throttle curves are used to tune your pitch settings and throttle together as they are slaved on the one stick. The idea is to have the head speed constant. As for degrees thats read by attaching a pitch gauge to you blades and changing the percentage numbers as you watch the gauge to get the pitch points you want.

sydr1234

thanks for your feed back, my first at rc universe. If you have time lets get this straight. By coincidence or not i dont seem to be experiencing alot of binding. The heli was set up by a club hobbyist and so lets say that the machine is not as bigger issue here, so the epa is not my biggest issue i can deal with that.

As for the EXPO and D/R. do i have to have continuity in the adjustments i make to the channels that are involved. Also do you have any suggestions for novice set up, generally, for the end points.

Secondly, how do i go a about rationalising the relationship between pitch and throttle curve.

Thirdly, when you programme a 5 point throttle curve will it be a smooth transition between the different throttle responses as it changes. Any suggestions on these issues.

Thanks for your kind help

syd

sydr1234

Oh and when you say throw some expo in there what is your advice.

When i first got this heli it worked really well. Ive had a cheap electric, then a co axial. Im learning all the time - the moskito was well set up and even a plank like me could get it to move around ( nose ahead). I find it really challenging although rewarding. Doing this all on my own can only serve to increase my skill and understanding. Anyway, i also installed a new fm receive. However, the tail seems abit wayward. do i need to set up the gyro completely. Or as it is in line will it work to a certain extent anyway

tippy

Your driving along in your car on a flat road at a constant speed. There are forces (load) that want to slow you down but you apply just enough power (via throttle) to just balance your forward force and load at exactly the speed you choose.

The you start going up a hill. What has changed? The load has increased. So if you maintain the same power output, you will loose speed. In order to maintain that "desired" speed, you gotta apply more power. Likewise with going down hill ... the load drops off. If you don't adjust power out, you will overshoot your "desired" speed.

On your heli, you will "desire" to hold the rotor at a constant RPM (ie the speed of your car). As you fly your heli, lift will be varied by changing the pitch of your rotor blades. As the rotor blades change from 0 degrees pitch, the load on the engine increases (ie your car is going up a hill). So to maintain that "desired" rotor RPM, you have to change the engines power output (throttle) to stay up with this new load. If set up correctly, the power out will changes as required as the load (pitch) changes and (ideally) the result will be a constant RPM.

So we control the helis vertical thrust via the collective stick (left stick in mode 2). As you move the stick, there are two programmable curves that changes the servo response based on stick position and the curve value (point) at that particular stick position. The two curves are pitch and throttle (power). So as you move the collective (left ) stick, these two independant curves drive two functions independantly of each other with the hopes that engine power and engine load (pitch) will balance to keep a constant RPM.

Good Luck,
d.tipton

Gorgok

First off, what Gyro do you have?

If its a standard, non heading hold gyro, you will need to setup some revo mix as your head load torques the heli more, the tail reacts to counter it. With my current setup, at mid stick (0* pitch on main rotor) my tail is basically at 0* pitch also, as the heli doesn't torque much. As the main rotor gets more pitch the tail rotor has to push the tail to the left (nose to the right). On the radio that means i add more revo to the right when trottle is up. The amount will vary on your pitch curve and and end pitch... and any figures i give would be meaningless on your setup.

If your tail is wagging you may have too much gain, you should lower the gyro channel end points (to lower gain). You probably have a switch for the gyro on your radio, one will be low, one high, at default probably 0% and 100% (like on and off). What i would do is set the lower to 50% (max on a JR... don't know about others) and the upper to something like 75%, or tweak it as you fly. If your tail is still wagging at the higher gain, flip the switch and see if it helped. If it still is wagging, you might need to look at the tail servo.

The servo could be slow, too slow to keep up with the gyro. Or the servo arm could be too long, so it throws the tail alot more than the gyro wants. It all really depends on the gyro and gear though.

If you have a heading hold gyro then you gotta find somebody else.. I won't get my heading hold gyro until the 18th.. After that i plan to enjoy flying without caring about my tail. GY401 w/ 9254

sydr1234

thanks for your feed back people. its all helpful. I know i need to get out in the field and play around with all these theories, although i wont have much time for a few days so the theory is all good. Alot of the normal curve graphs show quite a difference between pitch and throttle. I would have thought there should be a direct correlation between the two on the graphs. Oh well i'll play around and see. I guess one other thing is the gyro. I think its a mechanical futaba that sits inline on the servo. it does have another box with reverse/normal and another adjustment. Do i make adjustments on my gyro or transmiter.

Gorgok

The curves can be very different, as it depends entirely on your engine and helis mechanicals. My setup has the throttle curve stop at about 55% max, as i can pull my blades around no problem even at that low a throttle (TOKI .40 engine).

With 3d setups you get curves that have throttle at negative pitch, or stick down, also. Usually those curves end up looking like Us and Vs. In contrast a 3d pitch curve will most likely just be a line from bottom to top, at a 45* angle... It could have a slight S bend to it, one way or the other.