Replacing Rotor Gear
#1
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From: , FL
I recently just acquired an LT-711 HawkSpy...
I had some good first flights and the thing flew like a champ..
One bad crash later, busted main blade...
I tried to super glue it.. Dumb move... Got a good flight then another crash...
Not to be deterred, I ordered some replacement blades.. Waited patiently (shee yea right!!
) and they arrived today..
Now it doesn't have enough power to lift off... Good batteries in the transmitter and a full charge on the chopper...
I think the crash might have thrown something out of whack... There is a definite clickity clack when the rotors start to spin when before it was a smooth spin-up....
And when I hold the chopper and rev up the power, I can feel a definite vibration...
After pulling off the side metal panel, I found the problem...
Seems the gear (green box) that controls the upper rotor got munched up pretty bad (red box)...

you can look at the full size image here: http://sjfm.us/temp/gear1.jpg
My question is, what's the best way to replace that gear?
And is this the right replacement gear??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SERVO-MOTER-...item4ab26b56e8
Any hints, tips or advice would be most appreciated.
Michale
I had some good first flights and the thing flew like a champ..
One bad crash later, busted main blade...
I tried to super glue it.. Dumb move... Got a good flight then another crash...
Not to be deterred, I ordered some replacement blades.. Waited patiently (shee yea right!!
) and they arrived today..Now it doesn't have enough power to lift off... Good batteries in the transmitter and a full charge on the chopper...
I think the crash might have thrown something out of whack... There is a definite clickity clack when the rotors start to spin when before it was a smooth spin-up....
And when I hold the chopper and rev up the power, I can feel a definite vibration...
After pulling off the side metal panel, I found the problem...
Seems the gear (green box) that controls the upper rotor got munched up pretty bad (red box)...

you can look at the full size image here: http://sjfm.us/temp/gear1.jpg
My question is, what's the best way to replace that gear?
And is this the right replacement gear??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SERVO-MOTER-...item4ab26b56e8
Any hints, tips or advice would be most appreciated.
Michale
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From: San Juan, PUERTO RICO (USA)
<span style="font-size: medium">From the pictures it seems that it's a coax heli.
Yes, the gears can be replaced, however it a very cumbersome - time consuming task.
It gets messy. I'd rather change main and feathering shafts on my 450''s and 600's anytime.
See if you can re-groove the existing gears with a sharp metal object. I have used a
surgical scalpel to re-groove my Walkera 4F180 (single rotor fixed pitch). It is not the
ideal thing to do, but takes care of the wack wack sound on spool up.
If you like coax helis, you should try the Syma 031 they are built like tanks.
Hope this helps</span>.
Yes, the gears can be replaced, however it a very cumbersome - time consuming task.
It gets messy. I'd rather change main and feathering shafts on my 450''s and 600's anytime.
See if you can re-groove the existing gears with a sharp metal object. I have used a
surgical scalpel to re-groove my Walkera 4F180 (single rotor fixed pitch). It is not the
ideal thing to do, but takes care of the wack wack sound on spool up.
If you like coax helis, you should try the Syma 031 they are built like tanks.
Hope this helps</span>.
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From: Carmel, CA, US MINOR OUTLYING ISLANDS
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Tips on replacing gears.</span><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">After flying into a tree when I first got the Heliocopter I needed to replace a gear I striped. The connecting gears come in sets of two, so I replaced both. They can be found on E-bay with free shipping and take about 5 days to receive them. I would recommend having a back-up set of gears and and other breakable items on hand.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Since I could find no instructions on how to disassemble the Hawkspy 711, I took lots of pictures before disassembly and these came in very handy when I reassembled the copter. I wasted a lot time because I had no instructions. With these tips, it shouldn't take more than a couple of hours. I read one person's review who said he could do it in 45 minutes, but he didn't say how.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Tools needed: a set of small Phillips head screw drivers. I used a set of 1.4 mm to 3.0 mm with long shafts and twisting heads that worked fine.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">1. Remove the blades.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">2. Remove the canopy by pulling on both sides where it has tension fasteners. The front light is fastened with tape and comes out to free the canopy completely.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">3. Remove the camera and landing gear. Always put screws back into the holes that hold the part.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">4. Remove both lower shrouding pieces. The top shrouds don't need to be removed. The charging port on the right side, does not need to be removed. On the left side, a housing for an electronic piece does need to be removed.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">5. Take pictures of the exposed gear box and notice how they fit together. Take lots of pictures because they will come in handy upon reassembly.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">6. There are four recessed screws that hold the the gear assembly together. They are accessed from the bottom where the landing gear was. Unscrew these and the gear box will separate. The front part of this assembly is tied by straps to the battery. Leave the straps in place. There is no need to remove these to access the gears.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">7. Loosen the lower brass fitting on the lower large gear which secures the propeller shaft, and pull the shaft out from the top. Note there is an allighnment slot on the shaft for reassembly. The gears will separate after this for replacement.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">8. The rear connecting gear that connects the engine to the large gear that turns the shaft is the one I sheared and needed replacing. It goes in first with the brass bushing covering the spindle. To the front, is the other connecting gear that goes in second and fits below the the upper large gear that turns the shaft. This connecting gear has no brass bushing and goes in upside down when compared to the rear connecting gear. The last gear to go in is the lower large shaft gear and brass fitting. The brass fitting is on the bottom of the assembly.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">9. Run the removed shaft back through the gear assembly, and tighten the screw found in the brass fitting at the bottom of the lower large shaft gear. Make sure screw is aligned with shaft groove. Tighten screw.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">9. Reassemble parts in the way they came off. Refer to photos for help.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">When assembling the gears, it will feel like you need three hands, but I managed with two. By placing the screws into the parts taken off, it was easy to reassemble the helicopter without missing a screw.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">My impression of the helicopter after disassembly was that it was a pretty good quality unit overall. All the parts fit well and went back together smoothly. I learned a lot in the process about RC helicopters and enjoyed the experience, even though my patience was tested without instructions. Please let me know if I missed anything in these instructions.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Thank you.</span></div>
</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">After flying into a tree when I first got the Heliocopter I needed to replace a gear I striped. The connecting gears come in sets of two, so I replaced both. They can be found on E-bay with free shipping and take about 5 days to receive them. I would recommend having a back-up set of gears and and other breakable items on hand.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Since I could find no instructions on how to disassemble the Hawkspy 711, I took lots of pictures before disassembly and these came in very handy when I reassembled the copter. I wasted a lot time because I had no instructions. With these tips, it shouldn't take more than a couple of hours. I read one person's review who said he could do it in 45 minutes, but he didn't say how.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Tools needed: a set of small Phillips head screw drivers. I used a set of 1.4 mm to 3.0 mm with long shafts and twisting heads that worked fine.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">1. Remove the blades.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">2. Remove the canopy by pulling on both sides where it has tension fasteners. The front light is fastened with tape and comes out to free the canopy completely.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">3. Remove the camera and landing gear. Always put screws back into the holes that hold the part.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">4. Remove both lower shrouding pieces. The top shrouds don't need to be removed. The charging port on the right side, does not need to be removed. On the left side, a housing for an electronic piece does need to be removed.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">5. Take pictures of the exposed gear box and notice how they fit together. Take lots of pictures because they will come in handy upon reassembly.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">6. There are four recessed screws that hold the the gear assembly together. They are accessed from the bottom where the landing gear was. Unscrew these and the gear box will separate. The front part of this assembly is tied by straps to the battery. Leave the straps in place. There is no need to remove these to access the gears.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">7. Loosen the lower brass fitting on the lower large gear which secures the propeller shaft, and pull the shaft out from the top. Note there is an allighnment slot on the shaft for reassembly. The gears will separate after this for replacement.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">8. The rear connecting gear that connects the engine to the large gear that turns the shaft is the one I sheared and needed replacing. It goes in first with the brass bushing covering the spindle. To the front, is the other connecting gear that goes in second and fits below the the upper large gear that turns the shaft. This connecting gear has no brass bushing and goes in upside down when compared to the rear connecting gear. The last gear to go in is the lower large shaft gear and brass fitting. The brass fitting is on the bottom of the assembly.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">9. Run the removed shaft back through the gear assembly, and tighten the screw found in the brass fitting at the bottom of the lower large shaft gear. Make sure screw is aligned with shaft groove. Tighten screw.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">9. Reassemble parts in the way they came off. Refer to photos for help.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">When assembling the gears, it will feel like you need three hands, but I managed with two. By placing the screws into the parts taken off, it was easy to reassemble the helicopter without missing a screw.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">My impression of the helicopter after disassembly was that it was a pretty good quality unit overall. All the parts fit well and went back together smoothly. I learned a lot in the process about RC helicopters and enjoyed the experience, even though my patience was tested without instructions. Please let me know if I missed anything in these instructions.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Thank you.</span></div>



