C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
#4802
Thread Starter
People fly the UF with quite a large balance point range, its not normal to have that much elevator trim even with a nose heavy set up (instruction manual figure is a safe forward place)
Check the tailplane seat on the fuselage, if you don't clean off the seam material around this area I have seen examples when up is required as the tailplane sits at a positive incidence.
Balance and batteries comes down to where they sit. In the pockets larger sizes are normally needed, if you put one in the nose the weight required is less.
Dave
Check the tailplane seat on the fuselage, if you don't clean off the seam material around this area I have seen examples when up is required as the tailplane sits at a positive incidence.
Balance and batteries comes down to where they sit. In the pockets larger sizes are normally needed, if you put one in the nose the weight required is less.
Dave
#4803
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
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Hi Tellmic. I actually originally weighed and blalanced the plane with 2 different size of batteries. At first my C of G was 229.. I changed to a heavier bty to adjust the c of G. Got it to 223 with the heavier btys.... All other gear included and not changed. My intention to make it slightly nose heavy for the first flight if not right on.
Dave...Ill check the tailplane. It was hard upgainst the fuse so should be okay......however I will do a full check....maybe the larger futaba servos in the stabs are bulging out...by memory not ...but will check for any wing or stab position change from flush.
Most likely that is it. Thanks for the feedback....hopefully that is all it is...cheers
Dave...Ill check the tailplane. It was hard upgainst the fuse so should be okay......however I will do a full check....maybe the larger futaba servos in the stabs are bulging out...by memory not ...but will check for any wing or stab position change from flush.
Most likely that is it. Thanks for the feedback....hopefully that is all it is...cheers
#4804
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
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Thanks Dave for your advice on my elevator issues.
my biggest issue is that I dont fly the jets often due to area available .....so I get a look at it then have to wait a while before I retest....sometimes months.. This is one reason why I have recently purchased an xcalibur for the grass strips..
I have however been okay with the Euro.
Get lots of other plane flying but tarmac is hard to come by and my grass strip locally is about 200m and has a fence at either end...so I want to be sure I can get down before I push it.
the Tarmac we use is usually a full size airfield so plenty of room to land and adjust to a new plane.
I had a good look at the UF tonight and noticed that the stabs were fully mated to the fuse.no bulging all good. nice clean even seal all over.
The wing on one side is perfect but the other has a very very slight gap midway along the wing where it meets the fuse...micro millimeter..nothing drastic. mates happily front and rear.
I then added in a battery.
Powered on and noticed the flaps were in fact positive in elevation... ie 1mm or more above the wing. The elevator was up 1/2mm from the last flight ..from neutral where it had started.....The flaps were wrong...I had made a on the field last minute change and removed some settings...the flaps were not in the position I had originally planned for neutral flying. up rather than down by approx 2mm in the flying position... I had allowed them to go further ( by cleaning out the join)to reduce binding...they were also now binding again as they were at their limits...this also possibly explained my larger than expected battery use on one battery of the two on the maiden...
I am resetting the plane for flight next time. I will use the lighter batteries that will set the c of g about 229 back...rather than 223.
Im guessing the flaps are my main issue here...I had not noticed this as after it landed I had refueled and experienced a fuel tank leak on the main tank ( split ) so I had not looked that the surfaces much further that day.
Ill see how I go. next flight is not for 2 months unless I decide to chance it at the local field. Its runway is short so I would prefer to wait to the next tarmac day to try it out...in the mean time I will fix my errors.
A few more questions:
1) For a grass strip what is the recommended length you can safely fly at...ie 150m-250m...1billion miles ...
After watching it fly I think I have enough length local to get off and land. The Euro is just okay there on a 140F
2) my UFs flaps are not exactly level to the aileron at the trailing edge. ie the aileron is neutral and the flap maybe slightly down on it but slightly up on the trailing edge compared to the fuse.
One side is more so than the other..do you try to line up against the inboard trailing edge of the aileron or the fuse trailing edge?
3) My tank is split as I have stated..not visible. I suspect it maybe due to fueling pressure...is this likely to be the case or maybe just a seem that was waiting to go. I use a one speed electric pump....maybe its too much...its not that strong. Im guessing you will advise me to use a variable speed unit...instead. and fix the tank...that part is easy.
thanks for all your help...
my biggest issue is that I dont fly the jets often due to area available .....so I get a look at it then have to wait a while before I retest....sometimes months.. This is one reason why I have recently purchased an xcalibur for the grass strips..
I have however been okay with the Euro.
Get lots of other plane flying but tarmac is hard to come by and my grass strip locally is about 200m and has a fence at either end...so I want to be sure I can get down before I push it.
the Tarmac we use is usually a full size airfield so plenty of room to land and adjust to a new plane.
I had a good look at the UF tonight and noticed that the stabs were fully mated to the fuse.no bulging all good. nice clean even seal all over.
The wing on one side is perfect but the other has a very very slight gap midway along the wing where it meets the fuse...micro millimeter..nothing drastic. mates happily front and rear.
I then added in a battery.
Powered on and noticed the flaps were in fact positive in elevation... ie 1mm or more above the wing. The elevator was up 1/2mm from the last flight ..from neutral where it had started.....The flaps were wrong...I had made a on the field last minute change and removed some settings...the flaps were not in the position I had originally planned for neutral flying. up rather than down by approx 2mm in the flying position... I had allowed them to go further ( by cleaning out the join)to reduce binding...they were also now binding again as they were at their limits...this also possibly explained my larger than expected battery use on one battery of the two on the maiden...
I am resetting the plane for flight next time. I will use the lighter batteries that will set the c of g about 229 back...rather than 223.
Im guessing the flaps are my main issue here...I had not noticed this as after it landed I had refueled and experienced a fuel tank leak on the main tank ( split ) so I had not looked that the surfaces much further that day.
Ill see how I go. next flight is not for 2 months unless I decide to chance it at the local field. Its runway is short so I would prefer to wait to the next tarmac day to try it out...in the mean time I will fix my errors.
A few more questions:
1) For a grass strip what is the recommended length you can safely fly at...ie 150m-250m...1billion miles ...
After watching it fly I think I have enough length local to get off and land. The Euro is just okay there on a 140F
2) my UFs flaps are not exactly level to the aileron at the trailing edge. ie the aileron is neutral and the flap maybe slightly down on it but slightly up on the trailing edge compared to the fuse.
One side is more so than the other..do you try to line up against the inboard trailing edge of the aileron or the fuse trailing edge?
3) My tank is split as I have stated..not visible. I suspect it maybe due to fueling pressure...is this likely to be the case or maybe just a seem that was waiting to go. I use a one speed electric pump....maybe its too much...its not that strong. Im guessing you will advise me to use a variable speed unit...instead. and fix the tank...that part is easy.
thanks for all your help...
#4805
Thread Starter
I guess the flaps being high would not help. That and the balance should sort it then.
Filling the tanks don't like fast filling, what voltage are you driving your fuel pump with, can you reduce it?
This is an old video from 2010 at our grass site, its 120m maximum, but the original patch was 90m and the join is not great this time so we try and fly on the 90m part. The airspace is not massive, we are restricted on the left hand end with a main road, so thing have to be kept tight, hence pull-ups and derry turns to follow the road. This day was cross wind, coming from the short end so a tight final turn in and it easily deals with the strip length. We have at least 12 UF in the club flown by all levels of pilots and they all cope with this length of strip.
You do need to have enough flap set though. Try flying the last 2 minutes gear down and flaps in to get used to the feel with it "draggy"
If you have a flying buddy who can spot that helps with positioning and speed until you are comfortable.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uj_3AJYg4jU
The wing is moulded as one and then cut, so the flap and aileron should line up perfectly.
Best of luck
Dave
Filling the tanks don't like fast filling, what voltage are you driving your fuel pump with, can you reduce it?
This is an old video from 2010 at our grass site, its 120m maximum, but the original patch was 90m and the join is not great this time so we try and fly on the 90m part. The airspace is not massive, we are restricted on the left hand end with a main road, so thing have to be kept tight, hence pull-ups and derry turns to follow the road. This day was cross wind, coming from the short end so a tight final turn in and it easily deals with the strip length. We have at least 12 UF in the club flown by all levels of pilots and they all cope with this length of strip.
You do need to have enough flap set though. Try flying the last 2 minutes gear down and flaps in to get used to the feel with it "draggy"
If you have a flying buddy who can spot that helps with positioning and speed until you are comfortable.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uj_3AJYg4jU
The wing is moulded as one and then cut, so the flap and aileron should line up perfectly.
Best of luck
Dave
#4806
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
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Thanks Dave. I had a look at the flap again... its close enough now...micro millimeter diff.
I will fix the tank and try the local club field. Our strip is about double the length you have on yours so with the 140 should be plenty.
As for the tank/pump...will fix pump and try a lower voltage on the pump as you said...Probably time for me to buy a variable pump.
Big thanks for all your help
I will fix the tank and try the local club field. Our strip is about double the length you have on yours so with the 140 should be plenty.
As for the tank/pump...will fix pump and try a lower voltage on the pump as you said...Probably time for me to buy a variable pump.
Big thanks for all your help
#4807
Where are you guys measuring the CG from since the manual still shows it measured from the wing pod?
Never mind, found it...Thanks Dave!
The new wing is swept back with greater span, larger flaps and tapering section from root to tip. The swept design makes the Ultra Flash easier to balance with the lighter Li-Po cells now used by the majority of jet modellers. The wing design has been successfully tested on designs like the Spark and Ultra Lightning. The Ultra Flash has also been designed from the start for use with a trailing link undercarriage set, the main wheel wells are a few mm back from the leg centre and the main leg openings are wider to accept the CARF supplied trailing link legs.
Construction follows the same process as the original Flash, the fuselage is identical, as is the process for installing the elevator servos. The wings use the same combined gear cover and aileron/flap servo mounting plate, screwed to the wing with 9 screws.
Follow the construction process shown in the manual, using this addendum.
Wings
The wings follow the same assembly process. If you are using the original straight Oleo leg from the original Flash, leg cover plates are supplied. These can also be fitted to some trailing link main legs if you want a cleaner lower wing surface.
The kit also includes a pair of moulded U section mouldings to seal the leg openings. These will require trimming around the under carriage units and to length.
The wing flaps use a ball link connection at the flap end and a clevis at the servo. The flap is factory fitted with a pair of horns ready to accept the supplied ball link. A long Allen driver is required to fit the M3 x 16 ball link screw. Access is from inside the moulded hinge cover knuckle. Move the aileron up and flap down to gain access.
Spend some time setting the Flap pushrod length before fully screwing the cover plate down.
The threaded rod should be approximately 50mm long and a good starting point for the push rod centres would be 75mm. This is centre of ball link to clevis pin.
The aileron pushrods need to be approximately 60mm long with 86mm centres. Both figures based on JR 8411 servos.
The flap settings for the Ultra Flash are:
Take off 25-28mm (1-1 1/8â€). Landing 95-100mm (3 ¾†to 4â€) both figures measured at the root, trailing edge of each flap.
The Ultra Flash requires down elevator with flap. Take off 0.8mm and Landing 4mm measured at the elevator trailing edge tip. Exact figures will be affected by balance position.
Balance point, gear up 220-225mm back from the wing/fuselage joint.
Never mind, found it...Thanks Dave!
The new wing is swept back with greater span, larger flaps and tapering section from root to tip. The swept design makes the Ultra Flash easier to balance with the lighter Li-Po cells now used by the majority of jet modellers. The wing design has been successfully tested on designs like the Spark and Ultra Lightning. The Ultra Flash has also been designed from the start for use with a trailing link undercarriage set, the main wheel wells are a few mm back from the leg centre and the main leg openings are wider to accept the CARF supplied trailing link legs.
Construction follows the same process as the original Flash, the fuselage is identical, as is the process for installing the elevator servos. The wings use the same combined gear cover and aileron/flap servo mounting plate, screwed to the wing with 9 screws.
Follow the construction process shown in the manual, using this addendum.
Wings
The wings follow the same assembly process. If you are using the original straight Oleo leg from the original Flash, leg cover plates are supplied. These can also be fitted to some trailing link main legs if you want a cleaner lower wing surface.
The kit also includes a pair of moulded U section mouldings to seal the leg openings. These will require trimming around the under carriage units and to length.
The wing flaps use a ball link connection at the flap end and a clevis at the servo. The flap is factory fitted with a pair of horns ready to accept the supplied ball link. A long Allen driver is required to fit the M3 x 16 ball link screw. Access is from inside the moulded hinge cover knuckle. Move the aileron up and flap down to gain access.
Spend some time setting the Flap pushrod length before fully screwing the cover plate down.
The threaded rod should be approximately 50mm long and a good starting point for the push rod centres would be 75mm. This is centre of ball link to clevis pin.
The aileron pushrods need to be approximately 60mm long with 86mm centres. Both figures based on JR 8411 servos.
The flap settings for the Ultra Flash are:
Take off 25-28mm (1-1 1/8â€). Landing 95-100mm (3 ¾†to 4â€) both figures measured at the root, trailing edge of each flap.
The Ultra Flash requires down elevator with flap. Take off 0.8mm and Landing 4mm measured at the elevator trailing edge tip. Exact figures will be affected by balance position.
Balance point, gear up 220-225mm back from the wing/fuselage joint.
Last edited by General Jake; 08-04-2015 at 10:51 AM.
#4808
Thread Starter
Yup, but that is a safe starting point balance, people go 3/8" back from there happily.
i always say fly it and see what suits you and your thumbs!
i always say fly it and see what suits you and your thumbs!
#4809
My Feedback: (29)
All:
I have an UF in the blue angels scheme I recently repaired from broken nose on a runway run-off. Repair put it back to almost perfect condition and now I will go to painting, I was wondering if any of you who had to do repairs on the same scheme happen to have the paint brand and code used for the blue angels blue, if possible the yellow as well, but not that critical. Any help will be appreciated
Thanks!
I have an UF in the blue angels scheme I recently repaired from broken nose on a runway run-off. Repair put it back to almost perfect condition and now I will go to painting, I was wondering if any of you who had to do repairs on the same scheme happen to have the paint brand and code used for the blue angels blue, if possible the yellow as well, but not that critical. Any help will be appreciated
Thanks!
#4810
Hi Ruizmilton.
Are you aware that Carf sells small tins of paint that will match very well.
Paul.
Are you aware that Carf sells small tins of paint that will match very well.
Paul.
#4816
My Feedback: (29)
Anyone out there who can help with this?
Thanks!
Thanks!
All:
I have an UF in the blue angels scheme I recently repaired from broken nose on a runway run-off. Repair put it back to almost perfect condition and now I will go to painting, I was wondering if any of you who had to do repairs on the same scheme happen to have the paint brand and code used for the blue angels blue, if possible the yellow as well, but not that critical. Any help will be appreciated
Thanks!
I have an UF in the blue angels scheme I recently repaired from broken nose on a runway run-off. Repair put it back to almost perfect condition and now I will go to painting, I was wondering if any of you who had to do repairs on the same scheme happen to have the paint brand and code used for the blue angels blue, if possible the yellow as well, but not that critical. Any help will be appreciated
Thanks!
#4819
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: New City, NY
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Not in the U.S. for the time being. Thanks most likely to D.O.T. regulations and shipping company hazardous material rules that go by those regulations making it not financially feasible to ship 4 oz. of paint with hazardous material surcharges.
Marty
Marty
#4820
My Feedback: (38)
Mine has a 120sx In it, GPS had it wide open with the wind on its tail at 239.3 MPH,,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THGjG-Q7FSQ
and landing this jet, is a straight up breeze,,,,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPHYPeDwE6E
Last edited by raron455; 08-08-2015 at 05:42 PM.
#4822
The Ultra Flash is very strong. Been flying mine with a 180RX for a long time but bearing in mind that throttle management is key. You don't need to spend all your time flat out. This way you get a good mix of flight time and performance without having to add additional fuel tanks etc.
#4825
Please be patient... Some more final touches and it will be the best looking UF with afterburner lights... I will post all the pictures and a videos....
For now check the link below... Master at work...
https://www.facebook.com/DemonAero/p...279732/?type=1
David
For now check the link below... Master at work...
https://www.facebook.com/DemonAero/p...279732/?type=1
David