panel lines on Sabre plug with chartpak tape - HELP
#1
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From: montreal,
QC, CANADA
I am finishing a plug for a Sabre. I primed, then applied 1/64" chartpak tape, then painted acrylic enamel. It seems to stay soft for a few days. I tried pulling the tape off, but at the ends it started lifting the paint. Since the paint covers the tape completely it has to be broken to let the tape be pulled off. I tried sanding to break the "envelope" but the tape got so thin that I couldn't pull it off. If I wait several days until the paint hardens up, I might not be able to get it off at all.
I know this technique has been used for years. What is the secret?
Thanks for any help
sb
I know this technique has been used for years. What is the secret?
Thanks for any help
sb
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From: Oxford, MS
The secret is to paint the tape with primer. Hit it lightly with 400 grit sandpaper (wet) and then paint with the enamel or whatever color coat. You should not get any paint lifting then.
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From: Reno, NV
Scott-The surfaces on that Sabre plug look GREAT. Gloss black sure tells all... 
Priming the tape helps seal the tape from absorbing the gloss black you put on. But since you are stuck now. You might have to wait til the paint drys alittle longer. You can always lightly run an Xacto knife on either side of the tape to start the pull an then pull the tape back on itself. Not to one side or the other. I've done this before. You kind a have to wait for the gloss black to adhere to the plug a little longer.
Gordon

Priming the tape helps seal the tape from absorbing the gloss black you put on. But since you are stuck now. You might have to wait til the paint drys alittle longer. You can always lightly run an Xacto knife on either side of the tape to start the pull an then pull the tape back on itself. Not to one side or the other. I've done this before. You kind a have to wait for the gloss black to adhere to the plug a little longer.
Gordon
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From: montreal,
QC, CANADA
Originally posted by Gordon M
Scott-The surfaces on that Sabre plug look GREAT. Gloss black sure tells all...
Priming the tape helps seal the tape from absorbing the gloss black you put on. But since you are stuck now. You might have to wait til the paint drys alittle longer. You can always lightly run an Xacto knife on either side of the tape to start the pull an then pull the tape back on itself. Not to one side or the other. I've done this before. You kind a have to wait for the gloss black to adhere to the plug a little longer.
Gordon
Scott-The surfaces on that Sabre plug look GREAT. Gloss black sure tells all...

Priming the tape helps seal the tape from absorbing the gloss black you put on. But since you are stuck now. You might have to wait til the paint drys alittle longer. You can always lightly run an Xacto knife on either side of the tape to start the pull an then pull the tape back on itself. Not to one side or the other. I've done this before. You kind a have to wait for the gloss black to adhere to the plug a little longer.
Gordon
Black is damned hard to paint I have found. You would think it would cover the best but not so. It took 4 coats to get it that black, and with a flash it is not really all that black surprisingly enough.
I think I will have a bunch of touchup to do on these panel lines. Oh well, what's another week?
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From: DundasOntario, CANADA
Hi Scott,
Isn't scratch building fun ! No wonder ARF 's are getting so popular.
My theory about your problem is that you put 4 coats of paint on over the chart pack. That might be a little too much. A definite film has formed over the tape making it hard to remove.Is the paint 2 part ?
To get out of your present situation, go lightly on the wet sanding so you only take the paint off and dont' thin the tape.
Can't afford any more delays. Remember our pact !!
Isn't scratch building fun ! No wonder ARF 's are getting so popular.
My theory about your problem is that you put 4 coats of paint on over the chart pack. That might be a little too much. A definite film has formed over the tape making it hard to remove.Is the paint 2 part ?
To get out of your present situation, go lightly on the wet sanding so you only take the paint off and dont' thin the tape.
Can't afford any more delays. Remember our pact !!
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From: Festus,
MO
Hi Scott, Yeh, that chartpak can be frustrating. Even painting on a model, it leaves its adhesive in the lines. What we used to do was to get the plug in final primer and then apply the tape. Then we took an airbrush of thinned primer and went over the tape only. You must do this several times to build up the line. Pull the tape, sand with 400 grit, then paint your black. Sounds like a lot of work, but remember you only have to do it once. Good luck. Bill Harris
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From: Claremore,
OK
Hey Guys thanks for the info now i know how to put lines on my F16 plug...Problem is i already made a mold for it.. Is there anyway to apply lines to the Mold or am i stuck now?
Great looking F86 plug,,if you kit it let me know..What size power package is it designed for and its overall spec's?
Thanks
Chet
Great looking F86 plug,,if you kit it let me know..What size power package is it designed for and its overall spec's?
Thanks
Chet
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From: montreal,
QC, CANADA
Thanks guys,
I figured that if I made the lines in the primer they would get filled in by the tape. Hmmm, perhaps I should have done more testing.
It is a 2 part paint 747drvr, and I had to put that much on because the black wouldn't cover. It will get done - don't worry!
The model is designed for a 3" fan (electric) and is 330 sq in.
I will let it cure some more, then try carefully sanding the tops of the tape. But I will be doing touchups whether I like it or not. Live and learn.
I think I will have to do a bunch of experimenting. I want to figure this out once and for all and see how different the lines look when done on the primer.
Thanks for the advice all
sb
I figured that if I made the lines in the primer they would get filled in by the tape. Hmmm, perhaps I should have done more testing.
It is a 2 part paint 747drvr, and I had to put that much on because the black wouldn't cover. It will get done - don't worry!
The model is designed for a 3" fan (electric) and is 330 sq in.
I will let it cure some more, then try carefully sanding the tops of the tape. But I will be doing touchups whether I like it or not. Live and learn.
I think I will have to do a bunch of experimenting. I want to figure this out once and for all and see how different the lines look when done on the primer.
Thanks for the advice all
sb
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From: VereenigingGauteng, SOUTH AFRICA
Hi all,
The last coat that I put on the plug is 4:1 Filler primer wich is a 2 pack product. Water paper with 220/320 then 600 then 1000 grit.
Next take contour tape, plastic automotive panel beeter stuf. Stick a strip to a cleen mirror and cut into thin strips with a steel rule and a hobby knife.
Stick the thin strips over the plug where the pannel lines must be.
Spray 2 pack 4:1 filler primer over the tape and about 1" either side to give a soft lead in to the build up of filler. Spray only until the tape is covered.
When the primer is rubbery dry, use a hobby knife to lift the end, and pull back on its self. It will tear through the middle of the "Pannel line".
When completely dry, about 24 hours, or can be sanded with 600 with out clogging the paper.
Take 600 water paper wrapped around a wood block with a sharpish corner. Use the corner to sand along the pannel line to clean it up.
Take 1000 water paper and sand with your finger to give a smooth flow over the pannel line. Sharp corners dont mold very well.
Polish with 1000 wet.
Give it a go.
Dale
PS All sanding is done WET.
The last coat that I put on the plug is 4:1 Filler primer wich is a 2 pack product. Water paper with 220/320 then 600 then 1000 grit.
Next take contour tape, plastic automotive panel beeter stuf. Stick a strip to a cleen mirror and cut into thin strips with a steel rule and a hobby knife.
Stick the thin strips over the plug where the pannel lines must be.
Spray 2 pack 4:1 filler primer over the tape and about 1" either side to give a soft lead in to the build up of filler. Spray only until the tape is covered.
When the primer is rubbery dry, use a hobby knife to lift the end, and pull back on its self. It will tear through the middle of the "Pannel line".
When completely dry, about 24 hours, or can be sanded with 600 with out clogging the paper.
Take 600 water paper wrapped around a wood block with a sharpish corner. Use the corner to sand along the pannel line to clean it up.
Take 1000 water paper and sand with your finger to give a smooth flow over the pannel line. Sharp corners dont mold very well.
Polish with 1000 wet.
Give it a go.
Dale
PS All sanding is done WET.
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From: Elk Grove, CA
The lighter "other way" of taping the panel lines in is:
sand everything very smooth,
primer if needed, sand off the primer,
sand with 400 everything very smooth.
wipe the plane down with windex to get any oils off the plane,( this makes the tape stick better)
wash your hands,(any oil coming off your hands will make the tape less sticky)
get out the tape 1/32 and 1/64th and the three views of the plane,
put down with tape all the panel lines you can fine on the three view,
The tape must not overlap tape, but must be cut flush with the edge of any intersecting tape.
then paint the plane sealing in the tape with the paint.
It results in a raised panel line that looks great and the whole aircraft is
pounds lighter minus the primer that is used to "build up" the deck height to have a "sunken" panel line.
Happy trails, Black is great... but have a can of lemon pledge and a clean rag handy to keep it Clean.
sand everything very smooth,
primer if needed, sand off the primer,
sand with 400 everything very smooth.
wipe the plane down with windex to get any oils off the plane,( this makes the tape stick better)
wash your hands,(any oil coming off your hands will make the tape less sticky)
get out the tape 1/32 and 1/64th and the three views of the plane,
put down with tape all the panel lines you can fine on the three view,
The tape must not overlap tape, but must be cut flush with the edge of any intersecting tape.
then paint the plane sealing in the tape with the paint.
It results in a raised panel line that looks great and the whole aircraft is
pounds lighter minus the primer that is used to "build up" the deck height to have a "sunken" panel line.
Happy trails, Black is great... but have a can of lemon pledge and a clean rag handy to keep it Clean.
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From: Elk Grove, CA
I will post some,
it was a method created By scale legend Doc Keith.
I thought he was painting a completed jet...oh well,
If hes doing his own plugs..... Godlike status is coming soon,
Thats talent to do that kind of work.
I hope my Trim F-86 comes out as well.....
I'll be using the same method on the wings, fin and stabs.
it was a method created By scale legend Doc Keith.
I thought he was painting a completed jet...oh well,
If hes doing his own plugs..... Godlike status is coming soon,
Thats talent to do that kind of work.
I hope my Trim F-86 comes out as well.....
I'll be using the same method on the wings, fin and stabs.
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From: Elk Grove, CA
I'm about to paint the stabs on the F-86,
will take pictures before and after,
it may take a while, got to borrow a camera..
To make it perfect blow the three view up to the scale of the plane then connect the dots.
will take pictures before and after,
it may take a while, got to borrow a camera..
To make it perfect blow the three view up to the scale of the plane then connect the dots.
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From: Elk Grove, CA
If your going to do rivets and fastners as well,
shooting the primer over the tape method is the way to go,
then you can burn ,imprint, emboss, rivets as wanted
but if you just want panel lines, paint over tape is easy.
shooting the primer over the tape method is the way to go,
then you can burn ,imprint, emboss, rivets as wanted
but if you just want panel lines, paint over tape is easy.
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From: Sacramento,
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ORIGINAL: vasek
John, do you have some pics of the final result of the panel lines "the other way"?
John, do you have some pics of the final result of the panel lines "the other way"?



