Does anybody no of any problem/s with using lexan for the component deck?
Radio interference or something I am unaware of?
Yea I know it's a little heavy, I'm going to drill lightening holes when I get everything situated.
I'm finding it a lot easier to route wiring and tubing under since I can see thru it.
Critiques welcome as long as there good.

I like it!
Scott

Hello!
Looks great i also used Lexan on my Ultra Flash. Perfect material, and as you say - routing of the wires is so much easier as you can actually see what is going on below the deck. When I was finished with the install I used adhesive foil to cover the lexan with, then I reinnstalled all the components.
I will be using lexan on all my future jet builds from now on!

Helihover<br type="_moz" />

I think it will not be a problem, good idea by the way.

About the weight, not a issue too.. your plane will still have a very low wing loading and power to spare.



Enrique

Whats the best way to cut this material?

I've been using a dremel with an abrasive cutting disk to cut it, then sanding smooth. The only small problem is that it melts a little and you have to trim the melted material with a hobby knife before sanding. Leave the plastic protective covering on as long as possible before installing to protect from scratching. Lexan is soft and scratches easy. It is still the best type of clear material because it will not break. You can bend it double and it will not break. Other plastics will break very easy, even just trying to cut. I think you also may be able to use a sheet metal shear to cut the lexan if you have square edges, but I have not tried this since I didn't have many square edges.

Anyone used it as a template and once all done you could just make the board out of your favorite lighter material if you wish?

Sorry, I forgot, I did also "carefully" use this little "toy" table saw for the first cuts of the main shape. This saw (from Harbor Freight) is great for lots of other modeling uses. And I am using the step drill for hole cutting after a small pilot drill.

Cut Lexan with a small table saw for straight cuts, use a jig for curved. Sand the edges smooth as you can with progressive paper. If you want the edges clear you can get a small butane/propane torch and quickly flash the edge and it will look almost polished. Practice on how long and how close to keep the flame on the edge on some scrap.
BTW I dont for the life of me why you would want the deck clear, the main purpose of the deck is to hide the spaghetti. Scotty

What thickness are you using for the tray in the Rookie, 0.25"? I would think this would be the minimum thickness to retain rigidity once fully populated with the install components.

AF7, The lexan I'm using is 1/10th inch thick, hence more lightening holes coming..
And Scotty, you have a point but each to his own., as I said in the 1st post I am finding it a LOT easier to route (and should have said "and connect") the "spaghetti" with the deck being clear, which makes it worth it for me. Not to mention finding a leak or accidentally unplugged connector later. I'm hoping this will help me to make it look less like spaghetti and more organized when I finish it. l usually go for function more than fashion. Not so worried about the way it looks as to the how it works., If it works better for me I'm going to do it. With this size jet and the amount of extras it has (smoke, canards, gyros, thrust vectoring, etc.) keeping the components away from each other as needed (pumps, rxs ,ecu, etc.) makes for a large deck that barely fits in the hole and my huge old hands make it hard to get to stuff under the deck. If anyone ever says they don't like the way it looks I'll tell them what my Dad used to say "Don't look at it".

I like that one!
The best I had heard before was: "Show me yours..."

Greg