JET LEGEND VIPER BUILD THREAD
09-25-2013, 06:38 AM
#828
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: hull, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 712
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The 2mm air line works well - less obtrusive and doesn't make any difference to the performance of the retracts. The retracts will operate slower due to lower flow and not pressure. You can change the nipples in the retracts and electronic valves to 3mm if you so wish - the thread size is the same for both 2 and 3mm nipples.
The oleos have reverted back to a sprung system with some very 'claggy' silicon grease added as the dampening agent. In my view the hydro-pneumatic system was much better but they must have had their reasons to change it back. Ive found some of the the sprung systems to be a little soft and perhaps needing some stronger or additional springs.
To refit the 2mm onto the nipple; insert it into the short metal tube thingy (can't think of the word!) until flush with the bottom and use a pair of small side cutters on the waist of said short metal tube thingy to gently push it onto the nipple. Goes easy but is quite snug...
Good luck...
The oleos have reverted back to a sprung system with some very 'claggy' silicon grease added as the dampening agent. In my view the hydro-pneumatic system was much better but they must have had their reasons to change it back. Ive found some of the the sprung systems to be a little soft and perhaps needing some stronger or additional springs.
To refit the 2mm onto the nipple; insert it into the short metal tube thingy (can't think of the word!) until flush with the bottom and use a pair of small side cutters on the waist of said short metal tube thingy to gently push it onto the nipple. Goes easy but is quite snug...
Good luck...
09-26-2013, 06:22 AM
#829
Ok, I'm making some progress with the Viper.
Most of the servos are now installed. I need longer arms, and those are on order, so I'm on hold for rigging the linkages.
The engine has been mounted, and the alignment looks as good as I can do. Spacing from the bellmouth is spot-on. I ordered a Hanson UAT, but the jet came with a Spark UAT already installed. I'm not familiar with this UAT. I opened it and noticed it has a straight brass tube inside with some kind of conical-shaped filter on the end. Also, the output fuel tube to the fuel pump looks to be 4mm, not the 6mm found on a BVM or Hanson UAT. Is this Spark UAT worth using, or should I use the Hanson UAT? The 4mm output tube seems small, but on the other hand I wouldn't need to slip that piece of 4mm tube around the input nipple of the fuel pump to make the 6mm tube fit. So maybe 4mm from the UAT to the pump is ok. Any thoughts here?
I've got BVM heat shield paint now on the underside of the engine hatch. I'm thinking about doing some kind of heat shielding on the elevator/rudder leads above the exhaust pipe. Has anyone else done this? Or is this not needed.
Now that I've come to terms with the 2mm line, yes, the sleeves do snug right up and make a good connection. They route without any fuss, too, unlike the thicker 3mm tube. My only concern, as has been mentioned, is that they do seem to kink easily. When I plugged in the accidentally cut line, it did want to kink. Fortunately there was some extra slack in the line, and with some careful re-routing I got things worked out.
One thing I did notice was that my air gage showed about 1/4 full (I've since put in a normal gage that has numbers that make sense to me) right out of the box. I thought the gage must be AFU. Well, when I messed up and cut the line, air came out! Wow, the gage was right. I don't know if they aired this thing up in China, or wherever, but that it still had air in it after shipping to me was impressive.
Still scratching my head on where to put every thing - fuel pump, ECU, batteries, etc. Any suggestions here are also appreciated.
Thanks in advance for the help!
Randy
Most of the servos are now installed. I need longer arms, and those are on order, so I'm on hold for rigging the linkages.
The engine has been mounted, and the alignment looks as good as I can do. Spacing from the bellmouth is spot-on. I ordered a Hanson UAT, but the jet came with a Spark UAT already installed. I'm not familiar with this UAT. I opened it and noticed it has a straight brass tube inside with some kind of conical-shaped filter on the end. Also, the output fuel tube to the fuel pump looks to be 4mm, not the 6mm found on a BVM or Hanson UAT. Is this Spark UAT worth using, or should I use the Hanson UAT? The 4mm output tube seems small, but on the other hand I wouldn't need to slip that piece of 4mm tube around the input nipple of the fuel pump to make the 6mm tube fit. So maybe 4mm from the UAT to the pump is ok. Any thoughts here?
I've got BVM heat shield paint now on the underside of the engine hatch. I'm thinking about doing some kind of heat shielding on the elevator/rudder leads above the exhaust pipe. Has anyone else done this? Or is this not needed.
Now that I've come to terms with the 2mm line, yes, the sleeves do snug right up and make a good connection. They route without any fuss, too, unlike the thicker 3mm tube. My only concern, as has been mentioned, is that they do seem to kink easily. When I plugged in the accidentally cut line, it did want to kink. Fortunately there was some extra slack in the line, and with some careful re-routing I got things worked out.
One thing I did notice was that my air gage showed about 1/4 full (I've since put in a normal gage that has numbers that make sense to me) right out of the box. I thought the gage must be AFU. Well, when I messed up and cut the line, air came out! Wow, the gage was right. I don't know if they aired this thing up in China, or wherever, but that it still had air in it after shipping to me was impressive.
Still scratching my head on where to put every thing - fuel pump, ECU, batteries, etc. Any suggestions here are also appreciated.
Thanks in advance for the help!
Randy
Last edited by VF84sluggo; 09-26-2013 at 06:25 AM.
09-26-2013, 07:17 AM
#830
My Feedback: (67)
Hi Randy
the Spark UAT is fine. All the factory parts that come with this plane will work fine as is. Three years ago we had a lengthy discussion with the owner of JL to revamp this 1.9M Viper project out of the old Cermark Viper with a totally different approach toward a RTF project. Finally it works. Mine is a RTF completed with their T-12 engine. Everything including servos are all assembled in the factory and all stock items. Onlything I changed to non stock is the air fill valve after experiencing some leaks. Overall this one is by far the most reliable jets with factory stock items that I have flown. It's not perfect as everyone has different preferences and taste. I don't like the 2 mm only because I am used to the 3mm airline setting, but it works so good. I never had leaks.
I especially like their electronic retract and brake valves. They have tiny mechanical buttons on top of valves so I can use them to test the brake and to retract the landing gear without turning on/off the radio. A great feature for storing your jet after flying.
Overall it's a sport scale jet that's easy to fly, looks good in the air, economical to operate and sold at a very reasonable price. To top it off, I don't even have to buy expensive pilot figures. Just Ken and Barbie will do the job.
Mike.
the Spark UAT is fine. All the factory parts that come with this plane will work fine as is. Three years ago we had a lengthy discussion with the owner of JL to revamp this 1.9M Viper project out of the old Cermark Viper with a totally different approach toward a RTF project. Finally it works. Mine is a RTF completed with their T-12 engine. Everything including servos are all assembled in the factory and all stock items. Onlything I changed to non stock is the air fill valve after experiencing some leaks. Overall this one is by far the most reliable jets with factory stock items that I have flown. It's not perfect as everyone has different preferences and taste. I don't like the 2 mm only because I am used to the 3mm airline setting, but it works so good. I never had leaks.
I especially like their electronic retract and brake valves. They have tiny mechanical buttons on top of valves so I can use them to test the brake and to retract the landing gear without turning on/off the radio. A great feature for storing your jet after flying.
Overall it's a sport scale jet that's easy to fly, looks good in the air, economical to operate and sold at a very reasonable price. To top it off, I don't even have to buy expensive pilot figures. Just Ken and Barbie will do the job.
Mike.
09-26-2013, 07:53 AM
#831
Thanks for the info, Mike. I'll stick with the Spark UAT then.
I wanted to go with a BVM fill valve (for compatibility with my Boomer) and a PSI gage, and that's what got me into messing with the 2mm line. I got it sorted out, and all is good.
Have you had any trouble with the stock tank stoppers failing and spewing kero? That was mentioned in an earlier post as problem.
Randy
I wanted to go with a BVM fill valve (for compatibility with my Boomer) and a PSI gage, and that's what got me into messing with the 2mm line. I got it sorted out, and all is good.
Have you had any trouble with the stock tank stoppers failing and spewing kero? That was mentioned in an earlier post as problem.
Randy
09-26-2013, 09:07 AM
#832
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: hull, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 712
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi ,
I didn't bother with any kind of heatshield - 9 hours of flying the Viper on the T12 and no issues - this is a very reliable jet!
I put my pump underneath the turbine, just behind the forward engine former. I used A123's (no regs) which I mounted just behind the canopy in the 'hoop' of the fuselage. My ECU pack is strapped next to the turbine...
I have nothing in the nose of the Viper apart from one of my satellite RX's...
I used the stock tanks too with the stock bungs and have had no problems. However you must give the pinch bolts on the bung a good tightening to secure them properly. I changed the supplied screws to some good quality cap head bolts which allowed me to nip each bung up very securely.
Enjoy...
Jeff
PS Other than that I think it's probably one of the best airframes JL have produced.
I didn't bother with any kind of heatshield - 9 hours of flying the Viper on the T12 and no issues - this is a very reliable jet!
I put my pump underneath the turbine, just behind the forward engine former. I used A123's (no regs) which I mounted just behind the canopy in the 'hoop' of the fuselage. My ECU pack is strapped next to the turbine...
I have nothing in the nose of the Viper apart from one of my satellite RX's...
I used the stock tanks too with the stock bungs and have had no problems. However you must give the pinch bolts on the bung a good tightening to secure them properly. I changed the supplied screws to some good quality cap head bolts which allowed me to nip each bung up very securely.
Enjoy...
Jeff
PS Other than that I think it's probably one of the best airframes JL have produced.
09-26-2013, 09:09 AM
#833
My Feedback: (67)
No. I have no problem with it. As a matter of fact I was very impressed by their tank strength. A rookie maddened his Viper and forgot to unplug the air vent. Flew it all the way until the tanks were sucked into 1/5 of their size. Every thing held together.
Mike
Mike
09-26-2013, 09:39 AM
#834
All good news, gents! Looks like JL has already made some of the changes suggested.
My tanks have cap head socket screws in the bung, and I have given them a little more snugging up. The forward anti-rotation pin has been turned into a pin with a bolt, like the aft pin, so the wing can be snugged up with minimal gap.
Jeff, I am using A123's too, with no regulator, and want to keep the nose free of batteries. I use Futaba and like to keep that area for my receiver and antennas. So, when you say your batteries are in the "hoop" of the fuselage, do you have them mounted on the fuel tanks? Not sure what you mean. Also, with the fuel pump and ECU battery back aft, I assume you need them there to get the c.g. back to 35mm behind the spar centerline. Is this correct?
Thanks,
Randy
My tanks have cap head socket screws in the bung, and I have given them a little more snugging up. The forward anti-rotation pin has been turned into a pin with a bolt, like the aft pin, so the wing can be snugged up with minimal gap.
Jeff, I am using A123's too, with no regulator, and want to keep the nose free of batteries. I use Futaba and like to keep that area for my receiver and antennas. So, when you say your batteries are in the "hoop" of the fuselage, do you have them mounted on the fuel tanks? Not sure what you mean. Also, with the fuel pump and ECU battery back aft, I assume you need them there to get the c.g. back to 35mm behind the spar centerline. Is this correct?
Thanks,
Randy
09-26-2013, 09:52 AM
#835
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: hull, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 712
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi,
Yes, on top of the tanks - quite correct!
I put the 123 packs and the ECU pack in these locations as best guess after first flights and it actually ended up about right. However it still feels slightly nose heavy so they could go even further back. My CG is at the 35mm position.
Hope this helps...and I make some kind of sense...well it's been a long week so far!
Jeff
Yes, on top of the tanks - quite correct!
I put the 123 packs and the ECU pack in these locations as best guess after first flights and it actually ended up about right. However it still feels slightly nose heavy so they could go even further back. My CG is at the 35mm position.
Hope this helps...and I make some kind of sense...well it's been a long week so far!
Jeff
10-03-2013, 08:04 AM
#837
Hi Guys
Thought I would post a few pics of my latest Viper build that was finished and flown a few weeks ago.This one was for a friend whom needed a home for his Booster 90 with which it went very well. Due to a change of direction and not a reflection on the airframe it is already now owed by another good friend of mine whom I retro fitted it with his Kingtech 80. This should also be a very good match giving very similar power for very little extra weight although as yet not "re-maidend".
Using my experiences with the other Vipers that ive built over the past year or so I have incorporated a few modifications that I found useful.
The first was to remove some of the base of the fin strake. I was then abel to run the elevator and rudder leads out through the fuz just behind the turbine hatch along the outside of the fuz well out of the way of the tail pipe. There has never been an issue with the leads inside but it cant hurt to be away from the heat and it allows for slightly shorter leads to be used as you can now use all of the servo lead with out having to tuck it back up into the fin.
The second it to face the top of the forward R/C deck with 2mm liteply, Then pack it up away from the centre deck with two 5x2mm liteply strips across the fuz glued to the underside at it rear were the two meet as a spacer. This lifts the front deck sufficiently to allow it to clear the nose wheel when retracted. This both tidy's up the battery tray area and closes off the fuz from any stray grass, debris or splashes from wet runways.
Third! I have made up a liteply plate were the air lines and aile,flap leads exit ether side of the Fuz . To these I have fixed the male half of the three JL air connectors and the two sockets of the Ex leads from the Rx. This allows you to simply slide the wing on to its tube and connect it all up with one hand in the restricted space left wile holding the wing with the other. This save asking or needing help as with most swept wings they tends to swivel round and drop there trailing edge during rigging.
Last is and has been mentioned many times before is to only use only one of the 1500cc tanks in front of the inlets, then use two smaller tanks ether side of the turbine. In this case I've use two 800cl tanks that I've managed to find. Many have used the nicely moulded 950cc tanks available as smoke tanks from JL. This is not an essential mod as the JL Viper is very tolerant of CG change but for very little work it both helps with any change in flight trim and gives a bit more room up front.
R/C install comprises of a Powerbox duel reg switch using two 2200ma lipos for power, a 12ch JR Rx. Turbine uses a 3200ma ecu lipo mounted at the front of the main tank and a std centre pickup 4oz air trap. I have mounted the ECU on top of the inlet duct and the pump below the front of the turbine with the fuel/kero valve ether side on the turbine rails. Mounting the ancillary's near the Turbine keeps the associated leads to a minimum. Servos used were std 6.4Kg digis all round using only long enough servo arms to give the appropriate movement at a minimum of 100% travel adjust. The only exception was on the elevator servo were a JR 8411 11kg was used but again with as short a servo arm as is practical to give the best mechanical advantage to the servo over the elevator. This same setup was used by myself in Vipers that have now flown for the best part of a year and worked well. No lead was needed to achieve the now accepted CG at 35mm back from centre of wing tube dry with gear up.
Last edited by Mark Vandervelden; 10-03-2013 at 09:13 AM.
10-10-2013, 09:44 AM
#839
I got mine from Dreamworks. Sin City Jets also has (had?) them.
After searching just now, it looks like Dreamworks is out of stock, and Sin City Jets web site looks different (and a search comes up empty for Power Jack.) Global Jet Club appears to have them: http://www.globaljetclub.com/index.p...&category_id=0
RC
After searching just now, it looks like Dreamworks is out of stock, and Sin City Jets web site looks different (and a search comes up empty for Power Jack.) Global Jet Club appears to have them: http://www.globaljetclub.com/index.p...&category_id=0
RC
10-12-2013, 11:23 AM
#840
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Rødekro, DENMARK
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hello
I had my maiden flight today. It flies perfecktly, but in the second flight it gave a "crack" sound in a bypass. It was with about 3/4 throttle on my P80.
See pictures:
Has anyone experiened this?
I had my maiden flight today. It flies perfecktly, but in the second flight it gave a "crack" sound in a bypass. It was with about 3/4 throttle on my P80.
See pictures:
Has anyone experiened this?
10-14-2013, 06:37 AM
#842
Hi LarsHoi
Wow that look nasty but what a testament to the construction that even after sustaining that damage it got down safely.
With so many of these airframes flying with out incident now you have been very unlucky to have had one crack like this.
Possibly its been stressed somehow before flight ? perhaps in transit were upon your first flight showed up the damage.
I was chatting with my UK rep this morning on an unrelated matter and he mentioned you have been offerd a replacement tail FOC
Good to know JL are looking after us and hopefully you will be back up and running with your Viper very soon.
Out of interest I happen to have a spare tail plane here from a Viper that meet it demise as a result of a faulty DX18 Tx.
This particular Viper struck the ground all but vertical and at "full power" so its tail end has been stress tested to say the least.
Fortunately it hit grass and although the airframe forward of the rear part of the turbine hatch was destroyed the tail survived.
This has given me to opportunity to test and see just how strong the tail really is so I have done a very unscientific test.
You will see from the picture below that its not really bending that much under the weight but the elevator would still operate !
I would have gone further and placed more even weight on it but simply ran out of heavy lumps to use and it was getting unstabel.
Total dead weight in the picture is 21,3Kg so twice the weight of the actual airframe
Don't know about you guys but im impressed
Wow that look nasty but what a testament to the construction that even after sustaining that damage it got down safely.
With so many of these airframes flying with out incident now you have been very unlucky to have had one crack like this.
Possibly its been stressed somehow before flight ? perhaps in transit were upon your first flight showed up the damage.
I was chatting with my UK rep this morning on an unrelated matter and he mentioned you have been offerd a replacement tail FOC
Good to know JL are looking after us and hopefully you will be back up and running with your Viper very soon.
Out of interest I happen to have a spare tail plane here from a Viper that meet it demise as a result of a faulty DX18 Tx.
This particular Viper struck the ground all but vertical and at "full power" so its tail end has been stress tested to say the least.
Fortunately it hit grass and although the airframe forward of the rear part of the turbine hatch was destroyed the tail survived.
This has given me to opportunity to test and see just how strong the tail really is so I have done a very unscientific test.
You will see from the picture below that its not really bending that much under the weight but the elevator would still operate !
I would have gone further and placed more even weight on it but simply ran out of heavy lumps to use and it was getting unstabel.
Total dead weight in the picture is 21,3Kg so twice the weight of the actual airframe
Don't know about you guys but im impressed
Last edited by Mark Vandervelden; 10-14-2013 at 06:52 AM.
10-14-2013, 07:48 AM
#843
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Rødekro, DENMARK
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi
The whole plane got inspected from a second person just before the flight and he mentioned that the tailplane worked very hard and stabil. So there was no sign of this damage before the flight. And I have been flying with this damaged tailplane for a few minutes which indicates that it's not stressed under flying. It was after the landing a person said, that he heard a crack in the air. I simply don't understand how this could happen.
Anyway I was impressed how easy it was to fly and by reading this tread I only had to give 2 beep on the ailerons. And JL will send me a new tailplane, so I am overall saticefied with this model and the service from Final-modelbau so far.
The whole plane got inspected from a second person just before the flight and he mentioned that the tailplane worked very hard and stabil. So there was no sign of this damage before the flight. And I have been flying with this damaged tailplane for a few minutes which indicates that it's not stressed under flying. It was after the landing a person said, that he heard a crack in the air. I simply don't understand how this could happen.
Anyway I was impressed how easy it was to fly and by reading this tread I only had to give 2 beep on the ailerons. And JL will send me a new tailplane, so I am overall saticefied with this model and the service from Final-modelbau so far.
10-28-2013, 06:11 AM
#844
My Feedback: (11)
I did the DUMBEST thing ever yesterday, I am still in shock. One of my robart quick disconnects came apart in flight and the gear would not retract, so I landed, pulled the wing, fixed it, then took off again. About 2 minutes into the flight I thought "Did I tighted the wing bolt?"
I proceeded high speed passes, knofe edges, stalls etc.
When I landed there is a 1/4 inch gap in my wing to the fuse, and no wing bolt! I forgot to tighten the wing bolt back up and the wing did not come off. I feel like an idiot and a dirtbag who just got lucky. Next time I have issues I stop, shutdown, and go over the plane from the beginning. No more "running fixes". There are some times I tape my wings up front because I get nervous about the gap up there. People laugh but I assure tape will hold your wings on. I just proved the wings stay on with nothing! YIKES!
I plan to punish myself but not sure how yet.
I am building a Mig-29 now and have learned quite a few building tricks, I plan to re do my viper internals to make this process easier. I wish I could just leave the wings on but I dont care to buy a big enough vehicle to pull the size of trialer I would need!
I proceeded high speed passes, knofe edges, stalls etc.
When I landed there is a 1/4 inch gap in my wing to the fuse, and no wing bolt! I forgot to tighten the wing bolt back up and the wing did not come off. I feel like an idiot and a dirtbag who just got lucky. Next time I have issues I stop, shutdown, and go over the plane from the beginning. No more "running fixes". There are some times I tape my wings up front because I get nervous about the gap up there. People laugh but I assure tape will hold your wings on. I just proved the wings stay on with nothing! YIKES!
I plan to punish myself but not sure how yet.
I am building a Mig-29 now and have learned quite a few building tricks, I plan to re do my viper internals to make this process easier. I wish I could just leave the wings on but I dont care to buy a big enough vehicle to pull the size of trialer I would need!
10-28-2013, 10:48 PM
#846
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: , AUSTRALIA
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My buddy flew his today for the second time. All went wonderfully, but after landing we discovered the same situation as illustrated above, but on the wing. Just outboard of the landing gear. Wing is totally destroyed.
It appears, on inspection that the skin was never glued in properly to the ribs and internal structure. Very very poor. Lucky we discovered this, was not hard tho, because the wing was almost flapping on taxi back. Buddy is very disappointed to say the least and is obviously a manufacturing falt. He is very meticulous with handling the plane on the ground.
After seeing these 2 faults it makes me very nervous about my Viper, if I can ever get the T12 to run properly. Sent back to JL as we speak. I suspect the Ecu is no good.[
Very bad to see, and hope the quality is not going down as this is an excellent flying plane.Q
It was only his SECOND flight.
MattUOTE=LarsHoi;11637061]Hello
I had my maiden flight today. It flies perfecktly, but in the second flight it gave a "crack" sound in a bypass. It was with about 3/4 throttle on my P80.
See pictures:
Has anyone experiened this?[/QUOTE]
It appears, on inspection that the skin was never glued in properly to the ribs and internal structure. Very very poor. Lucky we discovered this, was not hard tho, because the wing was almost flapping on taxi back. Buddy is very disappointed to say the least and is obviously a manufacturing falt. He is very meticulous with handling the plane on the ground.
After seeing these 2 faults it makes me very nervous about my Viper, if I can ever get the T12 to run properly. Sent back to JL as we speak. I suspect the Ecu is no good.[
Very bad to see, and hope the quality is not going down as this is an excellent flying plane.Q
It was only his SECOND flight.
MattUOTE=LarsHoi;11637061]Hello
I had my maiden flight today. It flies perfecktly, but in the second flight it gave a "crack" sound in a bypass. It was with about 3/4 throttle on my P80.
See pictures:
Has anyone experiened this?[/QUOTE]
10-30-2013, 07:14 AM
#847
My Feedback: (18)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Clermont,
FL
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My buddy flew his today for the second time. All went wonderfully, but after landing we discovered the same situation as illustrated above, but on the wing. Just outboard of the landing gear. Wing is totally destroyed.
It appears, on inspection that the skin was never glued in properly to the ribs and internal structure. Very very poor. Lucky we discovered this, was not hard tho, because the wing was almost flapping on taxi back. Buddy is very disappointed to say the least and is obviously a manufacturing falt. He is very meticulous with handling the plane on the ground.
After seeing these 2 faults it makes me very nervous about my Viper, if I can ever get the T12 to run properly. Sent back to JL as we speak. I suspect the Ecu is no good.[
Very bad to see, and hope the quality is not going down as this is an excellent flying plane.Q
It was only his SECOND flight.
MattUOTE=LarsHoi;11637061]Hello
I had my maiden flight today. It flies perfecktly, but in the second flight it gave a "crack" sound in a bypass. It was with about 3/4 throttle on my P80.
See pictures:
Has anyone experiened this?
It appears, on inspection that the skin was never glued in properly to the ribs and internal structure. Very very poor. Lucky we discovered this, was not hard tho, because the wing was almost flapping on taxi back. Buddy is very disappointed to say the least and is obviously a manufacturing falt. He is very meticulous with handling the plane on the ground.
After seeing these 2 faults it makes me very nervous about my Viper, if I can ever get the T12 to run properly. Sent back to JL as we speak. I suspect the Ecu is no good.[
Very bad to see, and hope the quality is not going down as this is an excellent flying plane.Q
It was only his SECOND flight.
MattUOTE=LarsHoi;11637061]Hello
I had my maiden flight today. It flies perfecktly, but in the second flight it gave a "crack" sound in a bypass. It was with about 3/4 throttle on my P80.
See pictures:
Has anyone experiened this?
Wow, hopefully they didn't change up something or someone in the manufacturing process. We have two arriving saturday and these have to be the first two instances I've read about people having issues. Most just seem to love this plane. I'm curious when the aircraft with the elevator issue and the other one with the wing issue were originally delivered ?
10-30-2013, 02:10 PM
#850
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: hull, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 712
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi,
Get in touch with the factory or your dealer; I'm sure they will be very interested to see what happened and also supply you with replacement parts. There are an awful lot of these jets around now and I've seen them flown extremely hard (too hard in some cases) on airframes both quite old and very new versions. I do, therefore, suspect manufacturing error. They have been excellent so far but need to 'keep on the ball' to avoid any more slip ups!
Jeff
Get in touch with the factory or your dealer; I'm sure they will be very interested to see what happened and also supply you with replacement parts. There are an awful lot of these jets around now and I've seen them flown extremely hard (too hard in some cases) on airframes both quite old and very new versions. I do, therefore, suspect manufacturing error. They have been excellent so far but need to 'keep on the ball' to avoid any more slip ups!
Jeff