New big Ripmax Xcalibur (Xcalibur+)
#251
Thread Starter
M5 screw, but like he said.
the booms are also clamped to the fuse by M5 bolts, we tried to get the number of tools down to a minimum for assembly. M4 screws (3mm AF Allen) on the canopy, nose cone and tail plane. The booms and wing clamp are M5 (4mm AF Allen)
Dave
the booms are also clamped to the fuse by M5 bolts, we tried to get the number of tools down to a minimum for assembly. M4 screws (3mm AF Allen) on the canopy, nose cone and tail plane. The booms and wing clamp are M5 (4mm AF Allen)
Dave
#252
My Feedback: (1)
Dave's right, I was thinking 4mm because it uses a 4mm Allen key but the bolt is M5.
Dave, is there any need for elevator trim when selecting take off or landing flaps? The manual does not mention anything about it, I've got the rest of the plane setup but I was wondering about this.
Dave, is there any need for elevator trim when selecting take off or landing flaps? The manual does not mention anything about it, I've got the rest of the plane setup but I was wondering about this.
#259
Thread Starter
Servo power is more than ample, little heavy, 4 sit at the back end and would be 2oz more way back there. Model is very light, so no real biggy, but you'll need big batteries or weight in the nose.
My three 2s Li-po packs are 692g and my servos 55g each.Just a heads up!
Dave
My three 2s Li-po packs are 692g and my servos 55g each.Just a heads up!
Dave
#261
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Servo power is more than ample, little heavy, 4 sit at the back end and would be 2oz more way back there. Model is very light, so no real biggy, but you'll need big batteries or weight in the nose.
My three 2s Li-po packs are 692g and my servos 55g each.Just a heads up!
Dave
My three 2s Li-po packs are 692g and my servos 55g each.Just a heads up!
Dave
#262
Thread Starter
#263
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I just want to say that the folks at Global Jet Club have been awesome to work with and the support has been top notch. My retracts were missing from the box when shipped and they got a replacement set shipped out very, very quick. Couldn't ask for better support.
Jason
Jason
#264
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Just picked up my "Union Jack" from my LHS, starting to lay out components.
Have a few ?
Air Tanks: I got them to fit head behind the nose in the frame holes, is the correct location.
Are the (2) Tanks enough, when combing both to be used as Retract and Brake?
was planning on using the Pilot RC, elec pneu. valve.
Have a few ?
Air Tanks: I got them to fit head behind the nose in the frame holes, is the correct location.
Are the (2) Tanks enough, when combing both to be used as Retract and Brake?
was planning on using the Pilot RC, elec pneu. valve.
#265
My Feedback: (1)
I just installed my tanks under the equipment trays with a dab of silicone, but as the plane is likely to need some weight in the nose for balance putting them further up front makes sense. I'm using one tank for the brakes and one for the gear on separate systems and starting with 100 PS I get 6 cycles on the gear before the pressure gets too low.
#266
Thread Starter
Either side if the nose unit is perfect, in the nose it restricts wire access and tanks are light.
two is plenty, I use the Behotec valve and get multiple cycles.
two is plenty, I use the Behotec valve and get multiple cycles.
#267
My Feedback: (1)
I have to say I'm pleased with the retract units and included air system, besides swapping out the filler valves to Robart valves (to standardize and fit my compressor), and installing SMC pressure gauges I've used all the included stuff and the retract system is 100% leak proof, it's been holding 50psi for something like 3 weeks now. The brakes bleed out pressure ever so slowly over a few days, but that's ok too.
#268
Thread Starter
The guys at Ripmax spent a long time sorting this, tried more than one manufacturer on the prototypes and settled on the one making them. My Xcalibur plus holds air for weeks (I use the Behotec valve so brakes are isolated)
I use a Festo filler and T's just because that's my standard set up.
I use a Festo filler and T's just because that's my standard set up.
#270
Thread Starter
Movement wise yes, you might have to trim larger openings in the servo covers with such large clevis. You won't get a lot of arm outside the covers
#272
My Feedback: (1)
You will need a longer arm on the flap servo, I'm using a Hitec 7955TG servo and with the long single arm (HD-LL) that's included I'm using all the servo travel available to just about get the recommended flap throw. This arm is 28.5mm when using the outer hole, so a 1.25" arm would work ok here.
On the other surfaces i use the short Hitec arms and these are 22mm on the outer hole, I could use the next hole in @19mm on elevator and aileron but as Dave says the problem then will be interference with the servo cover and clevis.
On the other surfaces i use the short Hitec arms and these are 22mm on the outer hole, I could use the next hole in @19mm on elevator and aileron but as Dave says the problem then will be interference with the servo cover and clevis.
Last edited by Pondus; 09-14-2015 at 02:50 PM.
#273
Thread Starter
Yes, good point I forgot! Flap does need a longer arm! I used a Secraft 1.25" arm. Everything else with JR super servos arms 20mm (stock clevis)
Dave
Dave
#274
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Hello Dave,
I opened the big box and was impressed, still am, however after the booms went correctly in place, the anti rotation tubeswould not allow the wings to slide in place. It appears the mounting rotation tube holes either on the wing or the fuselage are not lined up! Any suggestions?
Skeet
I opened the big box and was impressed, still am, however after the booms went correctly in place, the anti rotation tubeswould not allow the wings to slide in place. It appears the mounting rotation tube holes either on the wing or the fuselage are not lined up! Any suggestions?
Skeet
#275
Thread Starter
Odd as I have not seen a problem and they are jig assembled.
Are you putting the screws in first? I put the wing tube in and the carbon pegs and then added the screws. Same on the middle size one.
Dave
OK, reading again you are saying the boom/tubes are OK, its the wing that will not match? How far? Did you chamfer the tube or are you trying with the square cut end?
If you back off the screws on the booms there is some movement in the pegs.
Are you putting the screws in first? I put the wing tube in and the carbon pegs and then added the screws. Same on the middle size one.
Dave
OK, reading again you are saying the boom/tubes are OK, its the wing that will not match? How far? Did you chamfer the tube or are you trying with the square cut end?
If you back off the screws on the booms there is some movement in the pegs.
Last edited by Dave Wilshere; 09-16-2015 at 12:59 AM.