I am looking for the largest length carbon fiber control horn I can get. Something with a shark fin type shape would be great but not a must. Most of the horns I find on the common jet sites are very short, THanks

Dragon plate .com buy carbon. Cut your own

We are manufacturing our own carbon plates from aero grade quadriaxial:

http://www.ultimate-jets.net/collect...lding-material
http://www.ultimate-jets.net/blogs/n...n-fiber-fabric

If you send me a dxf file, I can CNC route any shape.
If you want a cheaper alternative, as Rapptor said, you can cut your own from a plate with a carbide coated blade (for ceramic tiles cutting) on a hack saw.

Or use a reinforced Dremel cutoff wheel to rough cut and then a bench grinder to finish shaping.

BVM has some big ones they sell for the kingcat I used them on my F22 and they give great leverage.

+1

Thanks, I looked at bvm the largest they have is a 11/16 which should be enough, but I hate to use should . I may go with the 5/8 since I can get a four pack for 15.00 vs one 11/16 for 7.50.
I am going to replace all 14 control horns(two per surface) on the Avanti, I have been flying over 25 years and this was my first experience with flutter, me no likey. I thought about cutting my own since it would be cheaper and I could design a good anchor to glue in but I just dont have the will power to do that at the moment.
Thanks guys

Fender you can cut and grind carbon with common Dremel tools, if you want to take that path. If you want to minimize control loss, use a slip fit bushing/bearing rod end.

Yeah, I have cut carbon fiber with a dremel before just hard to cut 14 pieces the same shape and get the holes drilled the same. Don't suppose you have a picture of the slip fit thing you are talking about. Im not understanding what you mean. I need as tight of fit as possible, im trying to get down to servo gear slop only. Which I had but apparently wasnt good enough, so im going with more mechanical advantage.

Here you go Keith. The control links in your AH-64 follow this design, and ironically.....my FLY EAGLE F-35 had this hardware included. Have never seen another model with stuff like this included.

The idea is, you dont want to load the clevis, you want to load the bearing. The bushing allows you to torque the ball link without preloading the bearing. This configuration works for double horns, which is what I think you are trying to do. If youre doing single....disregard, you can then use a servo eyelet on the horn side.

ahhh okay gotcha I thought that might be what you were getting at, yeah im using a double setup with the ball in middle.


This style horn would be great in carbon

just found these lol
http://www.jtecrc.com/composite_control_horns.html

Falconwings I don't get it. Is the ball supposed to be able to rotate, or are those spacers there just to provide clearance for the ball link? I don't see how torquing that bolt and nut would pre-load a ball link?

What makes you think the fiberglass would not be stiff enough? I think the need for carbon fiber is often oversold, I bet a good G10/FR4 horn in the appropriate thickness would be fine. Especially in a double truss configuration.

If not just cut them out of CF plate but buy a lot of blades!

Have you got the servo side horn as short as possible? I mean like less than 1/2 inch?

Yes I'm under an inch on the servo arms and with the longer control horns I will going even lower like I did on the rudder. It's under a 1/2 inch. I have never used g10, doesn't mean it's not good it's just not what is in my brain as a know material.

Matt, you only use one spacer on one side. When you tighten the bolt, it puts pressure on the spacer but the spacer slips inside the clevis ID, so it doesnt get preloaded. A preloaded clevis will lead to early wear of the bearing, deformation and eventually unwanted slop. So if you want ultra precise control and minimum slop....that's the way to go.