mauryr

You can reach them from the intakes.
Mind the manual where it says '6 cm' - if you just choose a random height, you might end up with the rods bothering you when you close it.

FenderBean

The rod should be long enough to stick your fingers in the inlet on the outside wall and pull or push them. I put an “L” bend at the end of my rods to help grasp them. When you slide the rods toward the nose mine sit about an inch past the inlet opening and when the canopy is on about 5 inches or so inside the inlet.

skunkwurk

My Feedback: (18)

Hello Xantos,

Great jet, you are going to love it. The Rebel is my daily and can't imagine not having it. This is what I did, hope it helps. Note that I installed wheel collars & a little piece of tubing to create a soft stop when pulling/unlocking the canopy against the carbon rod guides. I hysol'd plywood blocks where the rods exits the canopy in the back and sanded down the exit in the front to ensure smooth operation. I included a couple close shots for you to see the ends and collars. Rod guides are hysol'd in for a smooth fit. Please be mindful of Mauro's suggestion. If you are not careful the rods or guides may hit the top of the fuselage when installed. I tried to keep mine as symmetrical as possible and clear everything. Works great.

Xantos

Hey Thanks for the Pics it clears up things .
Another question - Im planning to run a Rhino 200 , are the Intakes big enough to let the Rhino breathe or should I consider cutting out NACA inlets in the fuse ?

c_makhija

Not needed Nands...
Around 30 flights now with the RP and Rhino 200. No mods. Stock intakes are large enough.

Chatty.

skunkwurk

My Feedback: (18)

No need to do anything, there are many many flying with 200 class turbines.

sc

FenderBean

Yeah no need for more gets plenty as is.

Xantos

Hey Guys
My build is coming along quite well.
I just had one question on joining the 2 fuse halves.
If i choose to go with the standard Method A with the 4 bolts is it enough?
I dont need to take the model apart to get it to the field & can open it by unscrewing 4 bolts to get at the tailpipe or rear fuse if necessary.
Any other structural issues ?

David Jackson

My Feedback: (15)

Method A (4) bolts joining the fuse works fine. More than 70 flights on mine no problem. The fuse can be taken apart if necessary with just a little work.

Xantos

Hey Guys,
The Standard 6L tank that comes with the Rebel Pro does not have any baffles inside ,its quite a large volume of fuel in there.
All airplane Ive built so far BVM , CARF etc all have had baffles inside the tank to prevent fuel from sloshing around
Isn't it a problem to have it sloshing around ?
Im thinking of either cutting the tank and installing baffles or buying a new kevlar tank
Any ideas?

mauryr

I got one with the 6 liters tank and one with the 5 liters tank, neither have baffles, haven't noticed anything weird in flight.

FenderBean

Over thinking it, I have one and normally dont fill it up all the way due to being more fuel than needed and I have never had an issue nor has anyone else. Because we have free floating clunks and its really a small tank in relation to the jet size, near the center of gravity and on center line this to me would be pointless.

David Jackson

My Feedback: (15)

I've had no problems with the standard 6 liter tank, this is my 3rd year with the Rebel Pro.

PILOTMD11

My Feedback: (19)

Xantos

Thanks for the input guys

Xantos

icicles

I've had three flame outs. Due to excessive air entering the UAT. I ended up fitting a larger UAT. Problem solved.
To be fair it wasn't the fault of model , my plumbing, the tank, or the UAT.
I was just giving my Rebel a very hard time.

Chris

cmjets

FenderBean

if you scroll back a few pages the build thread shows my setup, some folks do things similar to mine and I seen others with everything underneath out of site.

FenderBean

Good stuff, can't go wrong here if your looking tanks hey CM can you you lay any image into the tanks?

cmjets

Xantos

OK Finally got my Rebel in the Air this weekend.

scoeroo

My Feedback: (9)

Liking that rear end take-off pic - Nice

Desert Fox 1

Cheers!
Desert Fox 1

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

So which one was it? LOL
Reviving an old thread, as I just took delivery of the CARF version Rebel Pro and wanted to see the differences, including final weight.
Upon initial inspection, the main hatch attachment has been improved. The 'hooks' that 'grip' it to the fuse go the opposite direction as Pirotti, so air load will actually help hold it down, and instead of the rods at the intake to hold it down it's just a single bolt up front, like the Havoc.
Additionally, the wing, stab, and vert fin tubes are carbon, the gear cutouts, control horns, and servo hatches are already done for you, the rudder servo setup is much like the elevators(servo mounted in the lower rib through the opening, so no 'hatch' to cut out), and the vert fin is held on with a bolt instead of the pin.
Basically, a refined version of the original design and a lot more prefabrication. But I'm also wondering if it will be lighter than the Pirotti versions. So far, there are only a handful of the CARF versions of this Pro in the hands of the public so not much info on weight for them, yet.
Can anyone tell me what length of servo arms are needed for each surface? Thanks.