John, you are welcome to the one pylon i have that airworld sent if you want it, i dont need it now and you could copy it or see if you can scrounge one from someone else

Ok so this weeks update, tail fin is added permenantly with some strengthening formers and spars added to make the mounting properly solid, scale fuel tank master has been made, needs a final polish before I make a mold to do some lightweight epoy ones, - also almost finished my own build/ design of thrust tube and afterburner, just got to add a couple of resistors to the 4 blue ones that aren't lit in the pic, this should add the tint of blue you get looking up pipe on a real aircraft aswell as the orange and yellow...

Forgot, also removed the rudder and other control surfaces as i wasnt happy with what i assume was supposed to be live hinging, it looked rough, and frankly not up to the job( it may well have been but i dont like it) hinges were done with paxolin and a sleeved rod, looks more scale with better movement

Morning Geebee

Yes I have done the same with regards to hinging - also thought the "live hinging" looked terrible and "suspect. I will post pictures of my flap hinges tomorrow.

This evening I am starting in your build sequence , unfortunately missing the cockpit build until a later stage - but will copy yours if ok? I presume mostly made from ABS sheeting and other profiles?

Can you shed a bit more detail/photos of your fin modification before you glue (if not too late already) as I am extremely concerned about this art of the aircraft. I have seen a pic of Trond's one - where it looked like he had fitted an ali wing tube of sorts. I don't need my fin to me removable - just secure and safe!

Your build looks fantastic, and with the absence of Airworld instructions - you, through this forum have helped immensely.

Regards

Gareth

The fin has been glued on already but basically the kit fin involves a rudder post and a former that runs parallel to the leading edge, I basically added 2 fuselage formers that had fin extensions in it these were bonded into the fuzz leaving the extensions protruding out of the top, the fin then slid over these and they were bonded to the skin of the fin with the rear one meeting the kit spar inside the stab.
im definitely going against all advice and fitting 2 engines so didn't have much vertical height to play with in the fuzz unlike Trond who only had an engine in the bottom position.

if you look inside the fizz you will see what I assume is part of Airworlds answer to securing the fin, in the form of a cut out in one of the rear formers,i wasn't happy with just that amount of load transfer from a fin that size though to be fair, it is a very small rudder.

cockpit is built from H.I.P.S sheet(plastic card) not ABS as abs is too trick to join and I like using Plastic weld to build.

It gets pretty tight with twins squezzed in. What is your plan for the pitot tube on the front? I need one for Barry's.was thinking about how to build one.

For the pitot i have inserted a plastic tub with a rubber lining, into which is a tight push fit turned down nitting needle. Basically i was slight concerned about a 12 inch javelin sticking out of the front so whilst it is plenty stong enough for flight loads, it should break away fairly easily if anyone catches it or walks into it or similar on the deck

I am wondering how you have fitted the LEDs. they look as if they in the tailpipe itself?
John

Thank you Geebee
Yes that would be most useful. I will send a PM.
Regards
John

The pics don't really do it justice but you can see the temporary jig to ensure thrust tubes are central etc and the effect of my experimental lighting system for the homemade afterburner

the Work continues, have installed and centred all servos and in process of connecting them up, got an electronics board sorted that is slowly having stuff added, it slides in and out of the top hatch for simple access, will post pics when complete, , gear bays are detailed as much as I can and overwing tanks are complete and fitted( and removeable) am really stuck now waiting for the main retracts from the idiot terrible customer service people that are airworld, , I got an email saying another 6-8 weeks and I'm going to hold them to it, ,I will be able to paint the airframe shortly, and be able to test run the engines prior to installation , hopefully that will take most of the 6-8 weeks , if anyone wants to lend me a set of mains or temporarily sell me a set for test fitting .....

Hi Geebee

If there is a way. I could send you my set, and you can redirect yours....mine are brand new and unfitted. I am still a ways away from needing them, so let me know if I can help in any way.

Gareth
0829066288

Hello,
I was going to puchase an Airworld Lightning as well, however, I also am keenly aware that the company has a lackluster history in customer interface!
Was told by the US airworld distributer that the next "batch" of Lightning gear was scheduled NOT to be produced until at least "JANUARY-2017"!!! Please be aware of this despite what you have been told by your source.
I am now seeking another airframe as a result of this...
Frank

Hi Frank, that does tally with what airworld told me, they said I would receive undercarriage in min of 6 and max of 8 weeks , would have thought if you were interested in a lightning, now would be perfect time to order one, bearing in mind they will have undercarriages after xmas.... and it takes about 2-3 months for airframe

Painting begins.. few minor jobs left to do inside and main gear and engines still need installing

Basic colours on fuselage

Weathering begins, love tired old aircraft that have worked hard for a living, trying to mimick a couple of shots I have of a very well worn lightning...

Test fit to ensure came lines and weathering weight match, a way to go yet but it's starting to look like a lightning

Hi Geebee

I only saw your private message now.....sorry

please send me an email on [email protected] and we can make the arrangements to get you going.

Chat soon

Gareth

Painting more or less complete, have left intake bullet incase I have to drill a hole in it to add nose weight, anyway, final stretch now, need to finalise all electrics, install engines ( xmas ) and do a few small internal jobs , oh and just complete the gear leg doors when I get gear.

Hi Stephen

Your retracts have left SA and on the way to you. Was nice chatting the other day, and good luck with the maiden.

Any idea when that might be?

Gareth

hi Gareth

it was great to have a chat , didn't realise international dialling codes are such a pain though, assuming I can get the electrics set satisfactorily over the next ten sets or so , then install the mains, which I HOPE will be a very easy quick job as I have everything set up in the wing already, all I need to do is do a bench run of the engines, install them and make the gear leg doors, I have 2 weeks of xmas hold coming up and if we get suitable weather as we do sometimes at this time of year ( cold but bright and still) the lightning may well be able to commit aviation in the first week of the new year.....

Very much looking forward to your flight report. Barry got a few more flights on his and while we keep moving the CG back more and more it still runs out of elevator authority when landing unless you come in real fast and flat. This might be just the way it is with a lightning not sure. Maybe flaps are washing it out? After I get the gear mounts fixed and Barry makes it back over to Florida I plan on moving the CG back even more and getting him to take it high and do some stalls and slow flight to try and figure this plane out.

It also does not help this plane has prototype gear so they are a one of set. They wobble real bad when braking at high speed so trying to get it to land slower but it does not like slowing down.

Your work looks fantastic! Very impressed.

Gunradd, at the moment I have the cg 3 inches aft if the main spar, I could go back perhaps another 3/4-1 inch max but any further would make it so light on its nose gear I'm not sure it would be wise , however no experience of a lightning means possibly this is what it needs... time will tell it's a murderously difficult job shoehorning all the electrics in this one, I'm just about winning at the moment, I've made a removeble tray that slides up the spine via the top hatch, it sits about 5 inches above the bottom engine( have staggered the engines as per the real thing.. ) and extends about 3 inches forward if the forward spar so helps keep weight forward, I think I'll need a little nose weight but not much.
thanks for the encouraging words