How to set up fuel system for Nitro ducted fan
11-03-2016, 09:20 PM
#1
How to set up fuel system for Nitro ducted fan
I know this must sound crazy but I just got a really great deal on a Byron F15 that also came with the Byron Mig 15 that was crashed
I'm going Turbine with the Byron F15 but it had 2 nice looking Ross .90 ducted fans with OS carbs.
I figure why not put one of the Byron fans/pipes set up in the Mig for fun. I have never seen a Nitro ducted fan jet fly except on YouTube. The Mig had a .60 size glow motor so I figured the .90 would be a little more fun
well i pulled every thing out and cleaned it. I removed 1 pound of clear silicone !
Im getting ready to put the 2 11 oz saddle tanks in and realized there is no muffler nipple on the Byron pipe
how is do you pressurize the fuel system ?
i was thinking of adding a BVM UAT I had laying around as a header tank, as pulling from 2 saddle tanks sound bad.
The F15 had 2 really crazy alummun(switches/fills) it's got like 5 nipples on it. No clue.
Any help for this odd side side project will be great. Thanks
I'm going Turbine with the Byron F15 but it had 2 nice looking Ross .90 ducted fans with OS carbs.
I figure why not put one of the Byron fans/pipes set up in the Mig for fun. I have never seen a Nitro ducted fan jet fly except on YouTube. The Mig had a .60 size glow motor so I figured the .90 would be a little more fun
well i pulled every thing out and cleaned it. I removed 1 pound of clear silicone !
Im getting ready to put the 2 11 oz saddle tanks in and realized there is no muffler nipple on the Byron pipe
how is do you pressurize the fuel system ?
i was thinking of adding a BVM UAT I had laying around as a header tank, as pulling from 2 saddle tanks sound bad.
The F15 had 2 really crazy alummun(switches/fills) it's got like 5 nipples on it. No clue.
Any help for this odd side side project will be great. Thanks
11-03-2016, 09:37 PM
#2
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normally the pipe for DF is has a nipple on the widest part for pressurizing the tank. Was that way for K&B 48 and a BVM 91 I used to run. For a header tank, just a simple small header with clunk and that is all you need. We never used anything fancier. I never tried a bladder type UAT in a nitro setup.
11-04-2016, 03:43 AM
#3
Byron used a wild manifold ( the crazy switch, 5 nipple gizmo you spoke of ) valve/tank system designed to keep the fuel at a constant level with the carb... Worked ok in a perfect setup but it didn't take me long to go more conventional. Drill and tap your tune pipe in the large section of pipe, install pressure nipple and go with conventional wisdom from there. I also recommend a BVM inflight mixture valve as well. Makes life real simple. Good luck, have fun.!!
Danno
P.S... Do the header tank as well... 2 or 4oz. dubro works well...
Danno
P.S... Do the header tank as well... 2 or 4oz. dubro works well...
Last edited by rcjetsaok; 11-04-2016 at 03:46 AM.
11-04-2016, 03:54 AM
#4
P.S.P.S.... To drill/tap the pipe, find the location you want the nipple to be. Take a punch and put a slight dimple / low spot on the pipe. Then wire brush the area and clean. Then use silver solder and create a puddle of solder wher you just dimpled the pipe and let cool. Now drill and tap through the solder and pipe for the nipple intallation. By adding the puddle of solder, you have created a thicker spot to drill and tap therefor getting more threads for the nipple to screw in to. The pipe wall is very thin and just drilling and screwing the nipple in that will not last...heat changes and such.
Cheers,
Danno
Cheers,
Danno
11-05-2016, 11:53 AM
#7
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I ran a Yellow F16 with an OS91/Ramtec Combo & a Tom Cook pipe, ran with impeller pressure nipple & never had an issue. Use a 1 or 2oz Sullivan tank as a hopper, works fine!
11-05-2016, 02:57 PM
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Mike,
Several good hints posted above. A former jet buddy flew some of the Byron stuff and we found that it was best to start the engine in an upright position. We used a 5 gallon bucket (inverted) with about a 4" thick foam pad taped to the bottom. The jet was placed in the pad inverted and the glow plug backed out about a turn to relieve compression. Once the motor fired and was running at idle the glow lead was removed and the plug tightened for run ups and setting the needle for high speed. The best, safest, setting was just below peak RPM and you would (carefully) pinch the fuel line for a quick jump to peak. He ran 5-10% nitro fuel with added oil, to about 22% oil content. The Rossi's didn't idle or transition well and large bore OS carbs worked better. Once the engine was set the model was flipped over for taxi and takeoff. The MiG sat close to the ground and would suck up every pebble and FOD on the runway. Also, the huge "cheater hole" on the bottom would literally suck the MiG to the runway hindering liftoff. The best technique to rotate was to quickly chop the throttle, to reduce the suction, lift off and add power once airborne. It was tricky but it usually worked if the engine didn't quit on the power up. This was a lot of "fun" back in the early days of jets and other Byron users made chime in here with their experiences also.
Good luck with this side project and let us know how it turns out.
Rgds,
Art ARRO
Several good hints posted above. A former jet buddy flew some of the Byron stuff and we found that it was best to start the engine in an upright position. We used a 5 gallon bucket (inverted) with about a 4" thick foam pad taped to the bottom. The jet was placed in the pad inverted and the glow plug backed out about a turn to relieve compression. Once the motor fired and was running at idle the glow lead was removed and the plug tightened for run ups and setting the needle for high speed. The best, safest, setting was just below peak RPM and you would (carefully) pinch the fuel line for a quick jump to peak. He ran 5-10% nitro fuel with added oil, to about 22% oil content. The Rossi's didn't idle or transition well and large bore OS carbs worked better. Once the engine was set the model was flipped over for taxi and takeoff. The MiG sat close to the ground and would suck up every pebble and FOD on the runway. Also, the huge "cheater hole" on the bottom would literally suck the MiG to the runway hindering liftoff. The best technique to rotate was to quickly chop the throttle, to reduce the suction, lift off and add power once airborne. It was tricky but it usually worked if the engine didn't quit on the power up. This was a lot of "fun" back in the early days of jets and other Byron users made chime in here with their experiences also.
Good luck with this side project and let us know how it turns out.
Rgds,
Art ARRO
11-05-2016, 03:06 PM
#10
Mike,
Several good hints posted above. A former jet buddy flew some of the Byron stuff and we found that it was best to start the engine in an upright position. We used a 5 gallon bucket (inverted) with about a 4" thick foam pad taped to the bottom. The jet was placed in the pad inverted and the glow plug backed out about a turn to relieve compression. Once the motor fired and was running at idle the glow lead was removed and the plug tightened for run ups and setting the needle for high speed. The best, safest, setting was just below peak RPM and you would (carefully) pinch the fuel line for a quick jump to peak. He ran 5-10% nitro fuel with added oil, to about 22% oil content. The Rossi's didn't idle or transition well and large bore OS carbs worked better. Once the engine was set the model was flipped over for taxi and takeoff. The MiG sat close to the ground and would suck up every pebble and FOD on the runway. Also, the huge "cheater hole" on the bottom would literally suck the MiG to the runway hindering liftoff. The best technique to rotate was to quickly chop the throttle, to reduce the suction, lift off and add power once airborne. It was tricky but it usually worked if the engine didn't quit on the power up. This was a lot of "fun" back in the early days of jets and other Byron users made chime in here with their experiences also.
Good luck with this side project and let us know how it turns out.
Rgds,
Art ARRO
Several good hints posted above. A former jet buddy flew some of the Byron stuff and we found that it was best to start the engine in an upright position. We used a 5 gallon bucket (inverted) with about a 4" thick foam pad taped to the bottom. The jet was placed in the pad inverted and the glow plug backed out about a turn to relieve compression. Once the motor fired and was running at idle the glow lead was removed and the plug tightened for run ups and setting the needle for high speed. The best, safest, setting was just below peak RPM and you would (carefully) pinch the fuel line for a quick jump to peak. He ran 5-10% nitro fuel with added oil, to about 22% oil content. The Rossi's didn't idle or transition well and large bore OS carbs worked better. Once the engine was set the model was flipped over for taxi and takeoff. The MiG sat close to the ground and would suck up every pebble and FOD on the runway. Also, the huge "cheater hole" on the bottom would literally suck the MiG to the runway hindering liftoff. The best technique to rotate was to quickly chop the throttle, to reduce the suction, lift off and add power once airborne. It was tricky but it usually worked if the engine didn't quit on the power up. This was a lot of "fun" back in the early days of jets and other Byron users made chime in here with their experiences also.
Good luck with this side project and let us know how it turns out.
Rgds,
Art ARRO
Wow. Thanks guys lot of new information to me.
We almost got it started but the drill keeps unscrewing the nut off the fan
11-05-2016, 05:18 PM
#12
It's already been frustrating. I didn't know I needed a special starting wand so I don't keep losing the nut on the motor
but it was cool waching 5 of the old guys remember back when they had a cool Byron and the proceeded to teach me a thing or two. They all really wanted to here it fly Nitro
11-05-2016, 05:26 PM
#13
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Here is a diagram on how to plumb the 5 nipple manifolds. They were used to fuel the Byron constant level fuel tanks. I still have a Byron F16 and Mig 15 laying around. I keep telling myself to rehab the F 16. ducted fans are the new show stoppers at the jet meets. Back in the day you were a genius if you got one in the air.
11-05-2016, 05:39 PM
#14
Here is a diagram on how to plumb the 5 nipple manifolds. They were used to fuel the Byron constant level fuel tanks. I still have a Byron F16 and Mig 15 laying around. I keep telling myself to rehab the F 16. ducted fans are the new show stoppers at the jet meets. Back in the day you were a genius if you got one in the air.
11-06-2016, 04:21 PM
#17
Also stock up on McCoy MC-9 glow plugs, you're gonna go through a bunch if you get too lean. I always likes 5% nitro Ritch's Brew fuel too.
http://www.ritchsbrew.com/rb.html
http://www.ritchsbrew.com/rb.html
11-07-2016, 06:42 AM
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Also have a few extra tuned pipe coupler o rings. They are not really o rings but a flattened silicone seal. They seemed to blow out every so often on me.......We used to crank the engine with the fuel off and then while cranking turn the manifold on or remove the hemostat on the carb line. It would help prevent things from locking up.
