T1 Models Euro Fighter build
07-18-2017, 09:34 AM
#1
T1 Models Euro Fighter build
Well a few weeks ago I received the all new T1 models euro fighter. The challenge was to have her built for Kentucky Jets. I did end up getting her done and very happy with how well it flew. I normaly only like American fighters but after flying this one a few times I was hooked. Several even asked me if it had thrust vectoring lol. She can for sure turn and burn. I did not have time to scale it out with weathering or the light kit yet but now that I am back home I will start work on that.
Here is a pic next to the Carf Euro.... She is about an inch or 2 shorter but much more scale with canopy and airbrake. Also the rivet detail and the screw head detail is amazing for an ARF. Also it has a very well built bifurcated pipe so more more ugly dorky single pipe out the back.
I gave the factory some recommendations and corrections so the kit you receive might have these updates already included. If you have an early kit I will include everything the good and the bad to help everyone have success. Also this kit was shipped out in a huge rush to make it to Kentucky then I built it in a huge rush.
Here is a pic next to the Carf Euro.... She is about an inch or 2 shorter but much more scale with canopy and airbrake. Also the rivet detail and the screw head detail is amazing for an ARF. Also it has a very well built bifurcated pipe so more more ugly dorky single pipe out the back.
I gave the factory some recommendations and corrections so the kit you receive might have these updates already included. If you have an early kit I will include everything the good and the bad to help everyone have success. Also this kit was shipped out in a huge rush to make it to Kentucky then I built it in a huge rush.
Last edited by gunradd; 07-18-2017 at 10:17 AM.
07-18-2017, 09:36 AM
#2
Some pics of the gear. Gear held up great other then loosing a tire. Make sure you locktite them. The gear is very rugged and scale. Also the nose gear leans forward like the full scale. The kit has lights that attach to the main gear also but still need to install that. Each main has 2 retract cylinders. This makes them very reliable.
07-18-2017, 09:50 AM
#3
Here is some flight video from Kentucky jets. I did not go to crazy with it on this flight due to the fact their where 5 other planes in the air at the same time also one of those aircraft was Lance Cambell and his SR71... I have allot of respect for him and his plane so I kept the plane out of his way and towards the middle of the field.
The plane will do anything you ask of it and then some. Really crazy how controllable it is with the nose pointed almost straight up in a high alpha. I had to take it away from my buddy Ali Machinchy because he was having to much fun with it early in the week. He loved it and could not get enough. The nose high attitude in cruise also is another plus and looks very scale.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rxcXZCsMAhQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
The plane will do anything you ask of it and then some. Really crazy how controllable it is with the nose pointed almost straight up in a high alpha. I had to take it away from my buddy Ali Machinchy because he was having to much fun with it early in the week. He loved it and could not get enough. The nose high attitude in cruise also is another plus and looks very scale.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rxcXZCsMAhQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
07-18-2017, 09:55 AM
#4
The airplane does not come with an instruction manual.... yet. I hope to work with the factory and get something put together. For the most part its a straight forward build. I will publish throws and CG soon.
I used all Savox 1256TG servos. The outside elevons really should have smaller mini servos for better fit but with some mods a full size servo will go.
Used 6 xicoy air valves for the cockpit canopy gear and doors along with brake and air brake.
Ordered better fuel fittings from PacificRCJets.com
Installed 2 LIFE receiver batteries and one life ECU battery all in the nose.
I used all Savox 1256TG servos. The outside elevons really should have smaller mini servos for better fit but with some mods a full size servo will go.
Used 6 xicoy air valves for the cockpit canopy gear and doors along with brake and air brake.
Ordered better fuel fittings from PacificRCJets.com
Installed 2 LIFE receiver batteries and one life ECU battery all in the nose.
07-18-2017, 10:10 AM
#6
I first started on the servos installation and flight controls.
The canard was first and I used some of the included hardware but didn't like it much so used some Hanger 9 titanium turnbuckle links. This turned out to really help getting them to align together perfect for fine adjustment. The holes for the servo mounts are pre drilled at their location. The canards dont need much throw so set them up with maximum mechanical advantage and max resolution.
The wing and tail surfaces come with hinges pre installed and glued into the surfaces. You will still need to glue them into the wings and tail. Double check them all to make sure they are secure dont trust prior work and check them your self. Before gluing dry fit the parts and lube the hinge pin portion to protect it from glue. Mine had the wrong size holes drilled in a few places so I had to enlarge them.
The rear stab needed some improving. The vertical stab has an alignment carbon tube but the part it slides into on the fuselage was just fiberglass skin.. I hysoeld a piece of thin ply on the inside of the skin then drilled a hole for the alignment pin. This made the entire structure very strong. Next you will need to secure the front of the stab through the air inlet hole on the front. A machined screw needs to be installed from inside the air inlet tube into the vertical stab.
The canard was first and I used some of the included hardware but didn't like it much so used some Hanger 9 titanium turnbuckle links. This turned out to really help getting them to align together perfect for fine adjustment. The holes for the servo mounts are pre drilled at their location. The canards dont need much throw so set them up with maximum mechanical advantage and max resolution.
The wing and tail surfaces come with hinges pre installed and glued into the surfaces. You will still need to glue them into the wings and tail. Double check them all to make sure they are secure dont trust prior work and check them your self. Before gluing dry fit the parts and lube the hinge pin portion to protect it from glue. Mine had the wrong size holes drilled in a few places so I had to enlarge them.
The rear stab needed some improving. The vertical stab has an alignment carbon tube but the part it slides into on the fuselage was just fiberglass skin.. I hysoeld a piece of thin ply on the inside of the skin then drilled a hole for the alignment pin. This made the entire structure very strong. Next you will need to secure the front of the stab through the air inlet hole on the front. A machined screw needs to be installed from inside the air inlet tube into the vertical stab.
07-18-2017, 10:14 AM
#7
The included linkages where a bit short for the rudder so I ended up again using hanger 9 titanium quick links. these worked great. You MUST use both sides of the linkage. DO not just use one side because the way the hinges are you will have play and possible flutter. After installing the both sides the rudder will be nice and tight. It is a challenge to get right but when done you will have a flutter free linkage that is hidden and scale.
07-18-2017, 11:05 AM
#8
The wings where pretty straight forward. A word of caution... THE WINGS ARE VERY THIN! special care needs to be taken so you don't drill through the skin or poke a screw driver through them. I felt pretty good after the build I didn't damage the top skin. The kit comes with some nice covers to hide the servos and linkages. I had to modify the outside servo pockets to hold the larger servos I used. Some mini servos would make it very easy to install. The servo wire can be a challenge to route so I used my own wire then crimped on my own servo connectors after routing the wires. The lights come with a string and preinstalled channel for the nav lights.
The kit comes with some small wood shims. These get installed as needed under the servo mounts to allow the servos to fit in the wing without pushing on the wing skin. You need more shim in the rear and less on the front.
Remember the inside control surface is not a flap its an elevator/aileron so it needs to move up and down.
The kit comes with some small wood shims. These get installed as needed under the servo mounts to allow the servos to fit in the wing without pushing on the wing skin. You need more shim in the rear and less on the front.
Remember the inside control surface is not a flap its an elevator/aileron so it needs to move up and down.
07-19-2017, 04:16 AM
#10
Here is the fuel tank set up. I plumed these in series since they are so close together. When possible I like to do it this way so that the second tank stays full longer in the flight and help keep the amount of air going to the UAT to a minimum. Also no Ts means I don't have to worry about the tanks filling differently. With the K160 and timer set to 7 mins I had plenty of fuel left over after each flight to extend the flight time. I did not use a overflow tank at all and never felt the need too with the extra fuel I had after each flight.
07-19-2017, 04:24 AM
#11
Plumbing the air system was a challenge to say the least. This is because of the limited room for all the valves and the fact that it has a working canopy airbrake gear doors and gear. In all I needed 4 2way valves and 2 1 way valves. The airbrake is spring loaded down so you only use a 1 way valve for it and also the brakes. I ended up fitting all the airvalves under the equipment boards in the mid fuselage. It was very tight but it all works. Word of advice.... Take the included airline in the kit and toss it in the trash it will cause all kinds of problems. I requested they use better stuff in the future but not sure if they will change it. The kit comes with lots of T fittings and 4 way connectors. I needed extra T fittings on mine but had some 4 ways left over.
When doing the airlines for the main gear make sure you T the lines off in a spot so that you only have 1 airline coming out of the wing so you don't have to many air connections when installing the wings at the field. With the 2 main gear actuators they just get a T fitting to join them together.
When doing the airlines for the main gear make sure you T the lines off in a spot so that you only have 1 airline coming out of the wing so you don't have to many air connections when installing the wings at the field. With the 2 main gear actuators they just get a T fitting to join them together.
Last edited by gunradd; 07-19-2017 at 04:49 AM.
07-19-2017, 04:30 AM
#14
Engine mounting was pretty straight forward other then the fuel fitting for the engine hit the wheel well. I had to rotate the fitting to about the 5:30 to 6 oclock position. This has not caused me any starting problems and all has worked fine.
07-20-2017, 05:13 AM
#16
Thnx Geoff
Cockpit has insane detail for an ARF. Installation was not to bad but it did require some slight trimming to fit. It gets installed with magnets so its easy to remove. One problem I had was they didn't supply enough magnets but that should be corrected in future kits. Another issue is the pilot seat... It has great detail but is to large to fit inside the canopy. I trimmed off about 3/4 inch from the bottom of the seat then it all works. I used Velcro around the sides of the glare shield to hold it in place and its still easy to remove.
Cockpit has insane detail for an ARF. Installation was not to bad but it did require some slight trimming to fit. It gets installed with magnets so its easy to remove. One problem I had was they didn't supply enough magnets but that should be corrected in future kits. Another issue is the pilot seat... It has great detail but is to large to fit inside the canopy. I trimmed off about 3/4 inch from the bottom of the seat then it all works. I used Velcro around the sides of the glare shield to hold it in place and its still easy to remove.
07-31-2017, 06:09 PM
#18
Hello Gunradd,
What size turbine do you have in your Eurofighter? Are you happy with the bifurcated pipe?
I've wanted to do a Eurofighter for quite a while... I've just been waiting patiently for the RAF or someone else to come up with interesting color schemes other than gray on gray...
What size turbine do you have in your Eurofighter? Are you happy with the bifurcated pipe?
I've wanted to do a Eurofighter for quite a while... I've just been waiting patiently for the RAF or someone else to come up with interesting color schemes other than gray on gray...
08-01-2017, 02:23 AM
#20
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08-01-2017, 03:28 AM
#21
Hello Gunradd,
What size turbine do you have in your Eurofighter? Are you happy with the bifurcated pipe?
I've wanted to do a Eurofighter for quite a while... I've just been waiting patiently for the RAF or someone else to come up with interesting color schemes other than gray on gray...
What size turbine do you have in your Eurofighter? Are you happy with the bifurcated pipe?
I've wanted to do a Eurofighter for quite a while... I've just been waiting patiently for the RAF or someone else to come up with interesting color schemes other than gray on gray...
Pretty sure they will do about any scheme you choose. My friend has one in the tiger meet scheme. They did an amazing paint job on it. Give Dirk a call and he can confirm.
08-01-2017, 03:31 AM
#22
Hello Ken. The slats are not functional. It would be to much work to make them functional in my opinion. They build the wing with them detached so the end user can glue them in position how ever they want. I like this feature since it looks allot more scale. Everyone thinks they are functional when they see it.