ravill

My Feedback: (11)

Jimibar, the pics of the A-10's I see show them all so filthy! Nice work!

What are you using to weather?!

Viper1GJ

My Feedback: (20)

Jimibar,
What are you using for weathering?

ravill

My Feedback: (11)

I’ve got all 4 batteries, balance ports and gun smoke valve in the front hatch.

Also, I added small fins to help opening the hatches up!

Edgar Perez

My Feedback: (13)

Nice, but I will be careful if charging LIPO batteries inside the plane.

ravill

My Feedback: (11)

I’m running LiFe batteries Edgar!

jimibar

Thanks Ravill.
My weathering is a bit complicated as I'm working in layers and multiples steps. Mostly like the modelling guys.
I'm using products from AMMO by Mig Jimenez, this brand is well known in the modelling world.
I'm happy with the result but to be honest with you, I think I'm going too far. This is not a 1/32 model and it's taking so much time to complete ... And keeping in mind that it is an RC model, most of the people won't even notice 1/10th of the details that I'm trying to do.
I'll post pictures later, I've finished the bottom of one wing. Now I need to get the motivation to continue ...

Regarding the steps on the weathering after the paint job, decals and one layer of goss varnish :
-first wash using black oil paint (regular oil paint from artist shop) and turpentine, I let it dry for 24 hours but depending on the result you are searching you can wipe it straight away
-wiping all the paint from the plane, this layer is used to tone the clear surface like the white and the grey paint. It is also really usefull for the recesses and rivets.
-next I apply various colors of oil paints from AMMO (they are calling it oilbrusher) in a dot shape. I'm doing that by small square surfaces to avoid the paint to dry too fast
-then I'm dabbing the dots with white spirit and a small brush - this is the step where you decide how far you want to go with your weathering, do you want it light or heavy, the more heavy you want, the less white spirit you use, It's hard to explain but the goal is to represent dirt on the surface and the dilution is important
-I let the surface dry for 24 hours, not more because the oil brushers from AMMO are drying quite fast and you might have trouble cleaning it after
-once the paint is almost dry you can alter the result of the level of dirt by using kitchen towels, if you consider it too dirty, you can just wipe the dried paint
-then I'm doing all the oil leaks and stains using oil paint and a brush, working as above in layers

ravill

My Feedback: (11)

Wowza! That sounds like a lot of work!

Well, I bought that shrink wrap label maker, and I really wonder why I waited so long to get it! It is the beeeeezzz kneeeezz!

CraigG

My Feedback: (40)

Looks great. What size heat shrink do you use?

ravill

My Feedback: (11)

Hi Craig,

I believe it is the next size down from 1/2". I'm trying to find the thread where I saw it and was recommended. I think it was Invertmast's thread.

It fits right over servo ends and snugs on down very well. You can change the font size so that the writing is larger when shrunk.

That little label maker is awesome.

CraigG

My Feedback: (40)

Thanks Rav. I remember that thread and meant to buy the label maker at the time. Never got around to it and now can't find the thread. The shrink wrap is a little pricey so I want to be sure I get the right size.

ravill

My Feedback: (11)

Craig,

I'll check my amazon order. Hold please.

Raf

ravill

My Feedback: (11)

Oops, I lied. It was the 1/2 inch.

CraigG

My Feedback: (40)

Thanks, I appreciate that!

Viper1GJ

My Feedback: (20)

I use 1/2" for everything. It nicely fits over the smaller servo plugs. With just a slight stretch it fits over the large servo plugs. You can stretch it to fit over Deans T plugs and last week I stretched it to fit over Multiplex plugs. In all cases it shrinks tight over the wires and looks good. I stretch it with a small set of needle nose pliers. See post #685 here: 1/6 F-105 Build Thread
Gary

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

I make my own extensions so I used ¼” mainly slid before crimping....

jimibar

Few pictures of the finished underwing :

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

Pretty sure the airforce have cleaner jet

ravill

My Feedback: (11)

That's filthy!!!

I love it!!

jimibar

Not when they are deployed.
The weathering is quite heavy for sure (and I like it that way) but according to the hundreds of photos and references that I'm using, mine is not the worst

Edgar Perez

My Feedback: (13)

Short update on mine: Went to start the turbines (JC Cheetah) and realized that the 4mm main fuel line was putting too much resistance and could not achieve full power. My setup in the fuselage is with the UATs is in front of the tanks and the ECUs in front of the UAT's. There is a 4mm bulkhead festo in the fuselage where the nacelles connect, and from them it goes to the turbine. The combination of distance and height differential is too much resistance to flow.
So will be increasing from 4mm to 6mm from the ECU to the turbine. Will also increase the kero start line from 3mm to 4mm. I don't think I need to increase the ECU fuel input line from 6mm, but will see.

CraigG

My Feedback: (40)

Never saw one that dirty but then again, they were pretty new when I flew them

ravill

My Feedback: (11)

I was able to start my engines, and because I didn’t want all the neighbors to hate me, I only gave them 1/2 throttle.

Those K160 G4’s are a nice piece of machinery.

Sorry about that fueling problem Edgar. I’m dealing with other issues though! Doh!

jimibar

I found some pictures of really dirty A10s but I wonder if they are reals or genuines.
I don't like when a plane is too clean, it does not makes sens but you are making me doubting, I want something which looks realistic ...

ravill

My Feedback: (11)

I’m working on my lights and sound system. I’ve had to have 2 computer screens at a time as these systems are so programming intensive!!

My cockpit is looking pretty good though!

jimibar

It looks great Rav !
How did you get the backscreen lightning ?