CARF REBEL 2m
01-13-2023, 11:44 PM
#551
If you know what a throttle is, turbine size is not a problem…
Your altitude helps too 🙂
If it’s std Electron legs put a packer under the nose unit to raise the nose a little. The std leg is softly sprung and could do with being 1/4” longer
D
Your altitude helps too 🙂
If it’s std Electron legs put a packer under the nose unit to raise the nose a little. The std leg is softly sprung and could do with being 1/4” longer
D
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DenisFerrari (01-14-2023)
01-14-2023, 06:35 AM
#552
My Rebel weighs in at slightly over 26#s Dry. My T-Ones weigh in at slightly over 34#s Dry. I run a K142G4 in the Rebel and K-160 G2 & 4 in the T-Ones. I have hundreds of flights on T-Ones and have never seen flutter. My Ultra-Flash destroyed itself when it's second stab's live hinge on the elevator failed and fluttered. I will always be nervous about CARF's live hinging. I keep a very close eye on it. But I like the way the Rebel flies, and it is a lot easier to handle on the ground, when I am by myself. Personally, I do not like the Rebel's servo mounts either. They are nowhere near the strength of the T-Ones'! I will occasionally pull them out and check them.
The nav lights on a Rebel are easy. I glued the landing lights to the Mains with Hysol. The Wing Tip lights I just cut slots in the tips for the heat sinks & lightly glued the WT lights on with goop. Fishing the wires through the wings was easy. They can go straight through w/o a lot of fishing around. I put a 2 servo One-Click connector at the wing connection. One circuit for Landing Lights and one for the Navs. I was a little disappointed that there was no taillight. But, then I am not sure one could be put up in the tip of the fin anyway. The controller appears to be a bit limiting. I was not able to figure out how to put the landing lights on the gear switch and the Navs on the light switch. On the T-One's new light controller, doing that was easy. The Unilights are very bright! No trouble seeing them in the day or evening. I would say they are about twice as bright as what comes in the T-Ones. But the T-Ones' nav lIghts are pretty bright too. For me, putting in the lights was worth the effort, especially if you like to fly late in the evening.
The nav lights on a Rebel are easy. I glued the landing lights to the Mains with Hysol. The Wing Tip lights I just cut slots in the tips for the heat sinks & lightly glued the WT lights on with goop. Fishing the wires through the wings was easy. They can go straight through w/o a lot of fishing around. I put a 2 servo One-Click connector at the wing connection. One circuit for Landing Lights and one for the Navs. I was a little disappointed that there was no taillight. But, then I am not sure one could be put up in the tip of the fin anyway. The controller appears to be a bit limiting. I was not able to figure out how to put the landing lights on the gear switch and the Navs on the light switch. On the T-One's new light controller, doing that was easy. The Unilights are very bright! No trouble seeing them in the day or evening. I would say they are about twice as bright as what comes in the T-Ones. But the T-Ones' nav lIghts are pretty bright too. For me, putting in the lights was worth the effort, especially if you like to fly late in the evening.
01-14-2023, 02:12 PM
#553
Thanks,
Tone
02-01-2023, 09:00 PM
#554
A question for all of the 2M Rebel owners about the CG. The manual says CG on the the front edge of the wing tube. I am using 2-2S/3000 LiPos for the flight pack and a 3S LiFe pack for the turbine all on a tray in the nose. I still need about 14 ounces of lead to get the CG right. The manual says nothing about fuel load on the main tank so I assume empty since the manual states UAT full. Where is everyone balancing at and with what kind of fuel level in the main tank?
Thanks
Jack
Thanks
Jack
02-01-2023, 09:54 PM
#555
You are nose heavy already without the weight!
Put 1.5” of fuel in the main tank. Remove the top hatch, stand above the model and look down on the wing spar, hook a finger under the turbine opening hatch side lip each side above the REAR of the wing spar and lift. It should balance there. All the fuel is in front of the balance, so fuel level will influence the balance and always make it safe when you are taking off.
Every one of the twenty Rebel 2m I have set up and test flown is balanced like this.
Using the JetCat P-130Rx ours all have a 2s 3700 Li-Po in the nose and two Rx packs around 2500-2700 either side of the nose retract frame
Dave
Put 1.5” of fuel in the main tank. Remove the top hatch, stand above the model and look down on the wing spar, hook a finger under the turbine opening hatch side lip each side above the REAR of the wing spar and lift. It should balance there. All the fuel is in front of the balance, so fuel level will influence the balance and always make it safe when you are taking off.
Every one of the twenty Rebel 2m I have set up and test flown is balanced like this.
Using the JetCat P-130Rx ours all have a 2s 3700 Li-Po in the nose and two Rx packs around 2500-2700 either side of the nose retract frame
Dave
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DenisFerrari (02-02-2023)
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DenisFerrari (02-02-2023)
02-02-2023, 07:01 AM
#558
I have a K-142G4 in mine and electron gear. Initially I set it up to the spec on the Xicoy scales with the top hatch on. I initially used two stacked 2000 Mah LiPo Rxer packs in front of and up against the nose gear's former and one 3800 Mah LiFe right in front of the 2 packs, with the UAT full and fuel in ~1/4 of the main tank. The UAT is a little large, but it is on the upper deck. When I rolled the plane over on a 45 upline on the maiden, it remained straight as an arrow and when landing it wanted to keep floating. So, I moved the 3800 LiFe as far forward as possible. Now it lands nicely (i.e. no floating and once on the ground it stays there.) I probably am not finished fine tuning the CG yet. I only have 10 flights on it with lots of snow and wind and no reasonable temps.
The plane is a nice relaxing flier. But I don't like the OEM's clevises. They can't be used on most metal control arms. Plan to change them out this winter. I am also a little uncomfortable with the wood servo mounts. Keeping a close eye on them too! Had the live elevator hinges fail on two separate stabs on my UltraFlash! Keeping a real close eye on the Rebel's live hinges.
The plane is a nice relaxing flier. But I don't like the OEM's clevises. They can't be used on most metal control arms. Plan to change them out this winter. I am also a little uncomfortable with the wood servo mounts. Keeping a close eye on them too! Had the live elevator hinges fail on two separate stabs on my UltraFlash! Keeping a real close eye on the Rebel's live hinges.
02-02-2023, 08:15 AM
#559
I have a K-142G4 in mine and electron gear. Initially I set it up to the spec on the Xicoy scales with the top hatch on. I initially used two stacked 2000 Mah LiPo Rxer packs in front of and up against the nose gear's former and one 3800 Mah LiFe right in front of the 2 packs, with the UAT full and fuel in ~1/4 of the main tank. The UAT is a little large, but it is on the upper deck. When I rolled the plane over on a 45 upline on the maiden, it remained straight as an arrow and when landing it wanted to keep floating. So, I moved the 3800 LiFe as far forward as possible. Now it lands nicely (i.e. no floating and once on the ground it stays there.) I probably am not finished fine tuning the CG yet. I only have 10 flights on it with lots of snow and wind and no reasonable temps.
The plane is a nice relaxing flier. But I don't like the OEM's clevises. They can't be used on most metal control arms. Plan to change them out this winter. I am also a little uncomfortable with the wood servo mounts. Keeping a close eye on them too! Had the live elevator hinges fail on two separate stabs on my UltraFlash! Keeping a real close eye on the Rebel's live hinges.
The plane is a nice relaxing flier. But I don't like the OEM's clevises. They can't be used on most metal control arms. Plan to change them out this winter. I am also a little uncomfortable with the wood servo mounts. Keeping a close eye on them too! Had the live elevator hinges fail on two separate stabs on my UltraFlash! Keeping a real close eye on the Rebel's live hinges.
02-02-2023, 08:43 AM
#560
My Feedback: (1)
I'm also using a K142G4 with Electron gear. I'm getting very close to finishing my build and will be wrangling the CG soon. I mounted my UAT, and pump on a removable tray in front of the fuel tank. Can you, or someone else, post your Xicoy balancer measurements? Thanks! -Tom
I HIGHLY recommend that you get your own measurements. While we like to think each plane is exactly the same, it's unlikely. It's really easy to do with a piece of masking tape on the floor to get your exact measurements. While I have the Max, I can tell you that mine and a friend's measurements were about 1cm off and why I'm recommending this. I attribute this difference mainly due to the exact position of the nose retract in the aircraft being slightly different.
02-02-2023, 08:59 AM
#561
Tom,
I HIGHLY recommend that you get your own measurements. While we like to think each plane is exactly the same, it's unlikely. It's really easy to do with a piece of masking tape on the floor to get your exact measurements. While I have the Max, I can tell you that mine and a friend's measurements were about 1cm off and why I'm recommending this. I attribute this difference mainly due to the exact position of the nose retract in the aircraft being slightly different.
I HIGHLY recommend that you get your own measurements. While we like to think each plane is exactly the same, it's unlikely. It's really easy to do with a piece of masking tape on the floor to get your exact measurements. While I have the Max, I can tell you that mine and a friend's measurements were about 1cm off and why I'm recommending this. I attribute this difference mainly due to the exact position of the nose retract in the aircraft being slightly different.
02-02-2023, 09:59 AM
#562
My Rebel measurements for the Balancer:
Front to Mains 800mm
Mains to CG 83mm
Distance from Mains 1043
The electron's set screw on the main's trailing link is adjusted to fit the wheel wheels. But I did exercise the springs a bit by lifting and compressing the springs a couple times and then lifting and letting the plane settle on its own. The nose gear's spring always sits fully extended.
Personally, my many experiences using the balancer is you don't need to be exact. I normally get as close as possible on the measurements for the Xicoy and then confirm a reasonable balance on the Easy Balancer. Ultimately, even then, I typically end up doing some sort of fine CG adjustments after the maiden. Everybody's idea of "good handling" is frequently different.
I have the UAT on the top deck. The Fuel Tank is forward of the CG. So, you may want to put the pump behind the fuel tank, etc.
2 Spektrum 2000 Mah LiPo Rxer Packs & 1 Kingtech 3800 Life
Fuel Pump Location
UAT, Powerbox & LG Control Location
Front to Mains 800mm
Mains to CG 83mm
Distance from Mains 1043
The electron's set screw on the main's trailing link is adjusted to fit the wheel wheels. But I did exercise the springs a bit by lifting and compressing the springs a couple times and then lifting and letting the plane settle on its own. The nose gear's spring always sits fully extended.
Personally, my many experiences using the balancer is you don't need to be exact. I normally get as close as possible on the measurements for the Xicoy and then confirm a reasonable balance on the Easy Balancer. Ultimately, even then, I typically end up doing some sort of fine CG adjustments after the maiden. Everybody's idea of "good handling" is frequently different.
I have the UAT on the top deck. The Fuel Tank is forward of the CG. So, you may want to put the pump behind the fuel tank, etc.
2 Spektrum 2000 Mah LiPo Rxer Packs & 1 Kingtech 3800 Life
Fuel Pump Location
UAT, Powerbox & LG Control Location
Last edited by Len Todd; 02-02-2023 at 10:02 AM.
02-02-2023, 10:17 AM
#563
Here is my setup, picture was taken before I mounted the nose gear and electronics on top panel. I installed a small light ply beam under the CortexPro to make the top panel more ridged and stiff for the gyro.
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DenisFerrari (02-11-2023)
02-11-2023, 12:01 AM
#566
Junior Member
I have a K-142G4 in mine and electron gear. Initially I set it up to the spec on the Xicoy scales with the top hatch on. I initially used two stacked 2000 Mah LiPo Rxer packs in front of and up against the nose gear's former and one 3800 Mah LiFe right in front of the 2 packs, with the UAT full and fuel in ~1/4 of the main tank. The UAT is a little large, but it is on the upper deck. When I rolled the plane over on a 45 upline on the maiden, it remained straight as an arrow and when landing it wanted to keep floating. So, I moved the 3800 LiFe as far forward as possible. Now it lands nicely (i.e. no floating and once on the ground it stays there.) I probably am not finished fine tuning the CG yet. I only have 10 flights on it with lots of snow and wind and no reasonable temps.
The plane is a nice relaxing flier. But I don't like the OEM's clevises. They can't be used on most metal control arms. Plan to change them out this winter. I am also a little uncomfortable with the wood servo mounts. Keeping a close eye on them too! Had the live elevator hinges fail on two separate stabs on my UltraFlash! Keeping a real close eye on the Rebel's live hinges.
The plane is a nice relaxing flier. But I don't like the OEM's clevises. They can't be used on most metal control arms. Plan to change them out this winter. I am also a little uncomfortable with the wood servo mounts. Keeping a close eye on them too! Had the live elevator hinges fail on two separate stabs on my UltraFlash! Keeping a real close eye on the Rebel's live hinges.
02-11-2023, 12:18 PM
#569
Some metal arms are too thick. The holes in most metal arms are too large. One needs to use heat shrink over the clevis. Gas line, won't last several years. Then when you are all done, you have a plane dependent on several ~1/16th diameter pins with ~ 1/2 of that diameter poked into a clevis side plate about 1/16th of an inch. Why settle for that, when all your other planes have a 3mm bolt, nut and ball link on them? For the price of these particular planes, IMO, the OEM is creating unnecessary risk to our airframes, our pilots and our spectators. These substandard components also make our shopping more difficult. Where can you find a quality 1.25" metal servo arm with the ~1/16th" hole in them? For me there is enough risk in what we do w/o building in unnecessary risk.
02-11-2023, 12:36 PM
#570
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Skunkwrks (02-11-2023)
02-11-2023, 10:44 PM
#572
Senior Member
Len have you look at MKS carbon servo arms.!
If you have seen what other manufacturers call good quailty you would realize very quickly that Carf hardware is very good !!!
Do what you want and if you have issues contact Carf with you concerns.
https://www.mksservosusa.com/home.php?cat=33
If you have seen what other manufacturers call good quailty you would realize very quickly that Carf hardware is very good !!!
Do what you want and if you have issues contact Carf with you concerns.
https://www.mksservosusa.com/home.php?cat=33
Last edited by Skunkwrks; 02-11-2023 at 10:52 PM.
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Desertlakesflying (02-13-2023)
02-12-2023, 01:41 AM
#573
Pi$$ing in the sea difference! A tank with smooth outer surface and rough inner to wear the clunk is not a better design. In the U.K. all 2m Rebel’s use the stock tank and fly perfectly when balanced my way.
02-12-2023, 04:47 AM
#574
My Feedback: (38)
Len have you look at MKS carbon servo arms.!
If you have seen what other manufacturers call good quailty you would realize very quickly that Carf hardware is very good !!!
Do what you want and if you have issues contact Carf with you concerns.
https://www.mksservosusa.com/home.php?cat=33
If you have seen what other manufacturers call good quailty you would realize very quickly that Carf hardware is very good !!!
Do what you want and if you have issues contact Carf with you concerns.
https://www.mksservosusa.com/home.php?cat=33
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Skunkwrks (02-12-2023)
02-12-2023, 10:32 AM
#575
Senior Member