I am new to painting jets. Most of the people I know recommend using the base coat-clear coat method. It is my understanding that the paint used as the base coat is a laquer type paint. From what I understand this paint is not fuel proof and is not as durable as the two part paints such as PPG's Concept. The guys at Radio South recommend using the two part paints as your base coat. It does not have to be clear coated but if you desire you can.

I was wondering what the pros and cons of each method are.


Hal
MMRC - Jackson, MS

Hal,
I've read your question three times and still dont understand what your asking??

I think the answer is, the "base Coat" is nothing more than a "colored primer" after which a 2 part urethane clear MUST be applied to finish the process.

However, there are 2 part systems such as DuPont System-2000 which is a "single" step application of a 2 part "colored" urethane which has a gloss finish.

BOTH are fuel proof to Kero and Gasoline.

There are a couple of things I do to make sure that it's all fuel proof, first, I either prime my work with a 2 part fuel proof primer, or I seal it with a coat of clear first. The base coat is a poly base, but it is one part and not fuel proof, it's not even glossy for that matter. Once all your color is applied, you spray a component type clear (2 parts plus reducer).

If you haven't painted with these types of paints before, let me stress this.....

USE A GOOD RESPIRATOR!!!!!! these paints are highly toxic and will damage your respiratory and in some cases nervous system very badly. They are also cumulative meaning they will never leave your system. Also, cover up as best as you can, don't spray with short sleeves and no gloves, get a disposable paint suit, they are like $10 and have hoods that will cover almost all of your skin.

I did a painting tutorial on here that you may want to read over, it will probably help answer many of your questions.

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_745346/mpage_1/key_painting%252Ctutorial/anchor/tm.htm#745346]Painting tutorial[/link]

I think the poly base they are referring to is lacquer based paint. It has no hardener. I have watched a friend use it. It is a flat looking PPG paint that is easily sanded. The guys at Radio South do not recommend it because it is not fuel proof. They say that if you happen to drill a hole after you have clear coated your plane, fuel can get in and cause the paint to come up. I have sprayed my colors with two part paint. It is much harder to work with than the one part they are using.

Hal

true, but your holes should all be drilled before you paint LOL!!!

Like I say, I base with a 2 part primer, that seals the fiberglass completely, or a clear. Then I use the single part because it is so much easier (not to mention cheaper and lighter) to use. then clear it all. If you should need to drill a hole, just wipe the edge with some thick CA after you drill it, it will seal it all.

Hal,

I have the answers to your questions.........Yes, regular basecoats are not fuel proof. (Heck, they can't even stand up to most wax and grease removers) The solution is EASY!!!! Go to the paint store and ask for PPG's line of basecoats that require a REACTIVE REDUCER. Reactive reducers actually have a small amount of "hardener" (activator) blended into the reducer. This will give you the fuel proofing you require and the necessary base to apply the clear. Don't clean your gun or anything else with reactive reducer...It will foul your gun!!!

True "laquers" are really not ideal to use as suitable basecoats. Laquers have a tendency to draw in and absorb the chemicals in the clear coat that provide shine. This is called "Dulling Back". Use the recommended basecoat for your clearcoat system. I hope this helps....

Kevin

Kevin...You got it right. You win a cookie! LOL
To expound, more of the story is as follows:
The PPG "Deltron" basecoat/clearcoat system we are referring to is called "DBU". It uses DRR 1185 Reactive Reducer, which as Kevin Greene has stated, contains a catalyst which promotes the hardening process, and reduces the viscosity of the material. There are other numbers for the Reactive Reducer that are suitable for various shop temperatures. I use DRR 1185 here in San Diego, as it never gets very cold or hot here. They make a hot temperature reducer, (think of Phoenix) and one for colder climates like Kaslispell, Montana.
One of the things to remember, is to make sure that you get the clearcoat applied within about 24 hours of the basecoat application in order to get the best adhesion. If you can't do that, sand the surface lightly and re-spray the basecoat before proceeding with the clear. You don't need to sand enough to remove the first coat...just scuff, then re-shoot.
The basecoat will dry to tape in about 20 minutes. I feel that it is wise to allow about 45 minutes before taping for the next color. If you work fast, you could possibly paint three or four colors in one long, hard day. Apply the graphics from Pro-Mark, Blast on the clearcoat, and you have a fuel proof, ultra glossy paint job!
A good clear coat is PPG 2021 or 2042 high solids clear. PPG can offer you guidance on compatible clears. Some clears are NOT COMPATIBLE.

The name "Deltron" is confusing to some. It is used in the original two part formula (DAU) acrylic urethane enamel, and then came "Deltron 2000" which is another two? part, then Deltron DBU, the subject basecoat/clearcoat form of "Deltron".
Then along came PPG "Concept", which is a premium gloss two part acrylic urethane enamel. That was in response to EPA rules that regulate the amount of VOC's (Volatile organic compounds) in paint formulations. The EPA is doing a great job of keeping me confused.
When you go to the PPG store, pick up some of the free literature on the various products. They are quite educational, and easy reading. Ask for a Full Line Catalog. It will solve the incompatability questions you might have. I'm sure that the PPG store people can answer any questions you may have.
Other paint companies make comparable products, so I'm not just blowin' the horn for PPG. I just haven't used anything else, as they are close at hand and have been very helpful.
A good spray gun/compressor setup is invaluable. Good equipment and good technique makes the difference between a good paint job and a great paintj job!
You should ask Bill Brundle....He's a great painter!

Good luck!

Harley Condra
BVM REP
Team JetCat