Aeropoxy ?
#3
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From: Morecambe, UNITED KINGDOM
Yes but it does not go off instantly.
dry fit everything first then when satisfied glue up check for alignment
and leave over night to set
Brian
dry fit everything first then when satisfied glue up check for alignment
and leave over night to set
Brian
#9
ORIGINAL: volkan
is Aeropoxy the same, (or similar) as standard epoxy,
why is it soo expensive??
is Aeropoxy the same, (or similar) as standard epoxy,
why is it soo expensive??
Steven
#11

My Feedback: (1)
I too am new to using BVM Aeropoxy and had a strange experience. I was using a new tube of Aeropoxy to create a fillet between a wood bulkhead and fiberglass on my F-16. I used the three inch mixing tube and everything seemed fine. However.........I created a fillet all the way around the bulkhead, about twenty inches total. Now the wierd part; after 18 hours of cure time I went to check the fillet. A three inch section that I had applied about half way through the job hadn't cured at all! I waited two more days and still no change at all. Eventually (ONE WHOLE WEEK LATER) I scraped out the white goop and applied a new fillet to the area and it cured in the normal time. I've read on RCU that its best to store the unused tubes in the freezer, so I did that before I opened the tube. Any thoughts or similar experiences out there? I've since had no other problems with the stuff, but my experience with Aeropoxy is currently restricted to only two jets.
Tim
Tim
#13
I think what happens sometimes is that the tubes are not exactly filled to the same level. When you go to squeeze it, the air bubble is bigger on one side. Consequently, the first little bit is unmixed resin, and it simply never dries. I like to use the clear mix tubes you can get from Tri-City paints so that I can see it mix up as it goes in. Hope this helps.
#15
ORIGINAL: Oosiksmith
I too am new to using BVM Aeropoxy and had a strange experience. I was using a new tube of Aeropoxy to create a fillet between a wood bulkhead and fiberglass on my F-16. I used the three inch mixing tube and everything seemed fine. However.........I created a fillet all the way around the bulkhead, about twenty inches total. Now the wierd part; after 18 hours of cure time I went to check the fillet. A three inch section that I had applied about half way through the job hadn't cured at all! I waited two more days and still no change at all. Eventually (ONE WHOLE WEEK LATER) I scraped out the white goop and applied a new fillet to the area and it cured in the normal time. I've read on RCU that its best to store the unused tubes in the freezer, so I did that before I opened the tube. Any thoughts or similar experiences out there? I've since had no other problems with the stuff, but my experience with Aeropoxy is currently restricted to only two jets.
Tim
I too am new to using BVM Aeropoxy and had a strange experience. I was using a new tube of Aeropoxy to create a fillet between a wood bulkhead and fiberglass on my F-16. I used the three inch mixing tube and everything seemed fine. However.........I created a fillet all the way around the bulkhead, about twenty inches total. Now the wierd part; after 18 hours of cure time I went to check the fillet. A three inch section that I had applied about half way through the job hadn't cured at all! I waited two more days and still no change at all. Eventually (ONE WHOLE WEEK LATER) I scraped out the white goop and applied a new fillet to the area and it cured in the normal time. I've read on RCU that its best to store the unused tubes in the freezer, so I did that before I opened the tube. Any thoughts or similar experiences out there? I've since had no other problems with the stuff, but my experience with Aeropoxy is currently restricted to only two jets.
Tim
You can pull the interior out of the mixing nozzel and clean it with acetone.
Steven
#17
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From: Laguna Niguel, CA
Will Aeropoxy work on glass/ Poly fuselages? The Yellow aircraft instructions say to use " stabilit" to join wood to the glass.. They said Aeropoxy will crack off or 'release' from the fiberglass fuse.. Is this so?
thanks
Anton
thanks
Anton
#18
Anton,
There shouldn't be any mention of Aeropoxy in any Yellow Aircraft instructions, since those were written well before the widespread use of Aeropoxy. You can use Stabilit, but you'll arrive at the same result through a lot more hassle and a little more expense. A little solvent to clean the glass, followed by a little coarse paper to rough it up, and the Aeropoxy will bond the polyester glass. Trust me on that!
There shouldn't be any mention of Aeropoxy in any Yellow Aircraft instructions, since those were written well before the widespread use of Aeropoxy. You can use Stabilit, but you'll arrive at the same result through a lot more hassle and a little more expense. A little solvent to clean the glass, followed by a little coarse paper to rough it up, and the Aeropoxy will bond the polyester glass. Trust me on that!
#21

My Feedback: (7)
Tony call Tam at (408) 224-7600 or you can go to his webpage tamjets.com, he sells and builds nothing but Yellow jets and he will be more than happy to explain the qualities and benefits of Hysol a lot of the jet guys like it because it does not run, you will see. 
Happy flying.
ps: If you go to the website go to our products and scrowl down.
CARS II

Happy flying.

ps: If you go to the website go to our products and scrowl down.
CARS II
#22
Tony,
There are a lot of places you can get Hysol. There is a guy here online named Kevin Greene, for example, who has it available at a considerable savings. This adhesive will work superbly on your P-47. Just make sure to clean the surface first with a solvent such as denatured alcohol or acetone, then scuff it up a bit with coarse paper. After that, it will take an act of God to separate your polyester glass from whatever you glue it to with Hysol. Hope this helps. Give a call if you have any further questions.
There are a lot of places you can get Hysol. There is a guy here online named Kevin Greene, for example, who has it available at a considerable savings. This adhesive will work superbly on your P-47. Just make sure to clean the surface first with a solvent such as denatured alcohol or acetone, then scuff it up a bit with coarse paper. After that, it will take an act of God to separate your polyester glass from whatever you glue it to with Hysol. Hope this helps. Give a call if you have any further questions.
#23

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From: Deland,
FL
Just a little note - as wth just about any epoxy, a little heat helps this stuff cure up faster.
-Brought to mind by the fact that I found a use for my old toaster oven in the shop. I was making a pushrod from threaded rod and CF tube. Rolled the threaded rod in aeropoxy, slipped it into the tube, and stuck the end in the toaster oven. The toaster oven was preheated to 300 degrees but turned off before putting the hardware in. When I got back to it in a half hour, the 'poxy was cured and the pushrod was ready to mount.
-Brought to mind by the fact that I found a use for my old toaster oven in the shop. I was making a pushrod from threaded rod and CF tube. Rolled the threaded rod in aeropoxy, slipped it into the tube, and stuck the end in the toaster oven. The toaster oven was preheated to 300 degrees but turned off before putting the hardware in. When I got back to it in a half hour, the 'poxy was cured and the pushrod was ready to mount.




Thanks....
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