I just started workin on this model and i need help keeping the pipe on. Im not sure how this pipe is held onto the header. It doesnt look like thiers a place for a coupler to mount to on the pipe. Also i need info on what to get for the rubber insulator, it looks like a flat band the header has a flat surface that band slips onto not a round oring style. Maybe this looks familier with you ol school DF guys. Sorry for the low quality pics but they may help[].

Normally, there is a small ring which slides over the pipe end that couples to the engine. The ring will have a spring or wire with tie screws that goes around the engine cylinder. As for coupling the two pipe pieces together, I always used a silicone coupler made by Pranther. Normally used for boats, etc.

Hope this helps.

JR Gautreaux

Looks like an O.S. coupler. The red ring is O.S. p/n 27126258. JR is right about the springs. If you have the right pipe, you don't need an outside coupler. I do run an extra o-ring at the base to cushion the pipe flange and help with sealing.

Does anyone have a part number or a website from which to order the rubber O-ring, not the red silicone ring, but the O-ring at the base of the header? Thanks.

Richie

I get the base o-ring from McMaster-Carr " http://www.mcmaster.com/ "
Part number 9396k33 (silicon o-ring, dash-212) $8.18 for a package of 25.

Doug

Great website!!! Very reasonably priced too!!! Thanks Doug...

Richie

Awesome guys, I dont know what id do without yall's. Where can i order a spring coupler and these orings? Sorry for being such a noob

Wow....you guys are on fire!

tenrail,

I think you are missing a piece in there. The header shown needs to have either a pipe with a flange built in to mate with it like here

http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=54757

notice how the pipe has a flange where it mates directly onto the header.

If your pipe does not have this flange already, and it appears that way, then you need a pipe adaptor, these were common in the byron setup. Basically it is the first section of the pipe in the link above, only about three inches long. then you would connect to the other portion of pipe with the silicon connector.

you cannot connect this type of pipe to the header shown with directly with the silicone connecter.

Check out TGAJETS.COM then go to accesSories and click on tuned pipe retainer assemb.
This may be what you need, I have one of these retainers and it has worked fine, very strong and durable, BVM has one like it and I have one also but I like the TGA one better.

Keep the flying.


CARS II

Hey Pat, it apears the pipe i have is a two piece. The black grooved part in front of the white sylicone does slide over the o-ring. Would it be ok to use a good guage of copper wire twisted around the adapter base and sling it around the cylinder?

PM me your address. I have some snap rings and springs you can use.

does your couple look like this one on terry's?

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfi...53/Us52976.jpg

Pat, maybe you can help me with this one....what kind of retainer, if any, other that these flimsy little clip on springs, can I use on this Weston pipe? Notice that the edge of the pipe has a flange that doesn't allow anything to just slide on for the purpose of retaining it on to the header. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Even though this is a short pipe, I really just don't like the spring clip idea. I see that pipe coming off in flight at some point. Thanks

Richie

On my Weston pipe, I drilled an extra set of holes next to the holes for the springs. I used 2 springs and a piece of safety tie wire around the cylinder head. That way, if the springs broke, the tie wire would hold it. Mine was installed in a Byron powered airframe and I was worried about the pipe going through the fan.

the westons are known for fatigue cracking around where they meet the header, i would follow Gary's lead on two sets of spring with two holes.

I do like terry's solution of using fuel tubing around the springs to not marr up your cylinder. (see pic in post above)

i find myself partial to BVM's music wire solution.

Sounds good.....thanks again guys!!

If you want your problems to go away, see if Jet Model Products has a header system to fit your model. I know people that have over 50 flights without messing with the seal or have any other problems . It's just the best bullet proof header system out there for Ducted fans.

Hope this helps
Marty O

Hey Pat! Thanks for the perfect illistration, where can i get that spring and ring? i have to slide the header out of the rubber coupler to put the ring on right? Can i put another oring in that groove behind the main oring for more seal? -dann

i have a bunch i can send you. email an address. the original clips were purchased at a hardware store. the springs a friend had some made with another order for his company.

K Pat i mailed ya, what happens when the spring might snap one day? Do you usually end up replacin a impeller? -dan

pat! I got your package, thank you greatly the snap rings are perfect idea. I put two sets of springs with two washers. Great to have people like you to help us out! Thanks all -dann

tenrail

re: snapping springs.. yep anything that comes loose in front of the byron fan will go through the fan. that is why the more used ones have lots of nicks in the blades. some guys started safty wiring things in place, passing a wire through the center of the spring... again, if things come loose, there is more metal to pass through the fan.

it took a few more days to get that out than i had thought. i hope it works out for you...

Hey Pat! Thanks for the parts, they came the same day my finish it package came lol. Thanks for helping me get my first df off the ground. Good idea with the safety wire too. -dann