hendrix

My Feedback: (2)

Hi.
Here is a short description of the valve programming sequence.
for the Jet tronics single valve if you press the push switch (on top of the valve) and then power up, it will toggle modes between
proportional braking(the buzzing mode) and the on/off mode (non buzzing).
Each time you need to change mode you must power down, press the button and power up again.
The proportional settings are not lost if you change mode but in order to adjust the proportional mode
(min brake travel, max brake travel, min braking action and max braking action in that order)
you need to reset the valve while in proportional mode by pressing 5 times the button within a period of 2 seconds
(press fast 5 times the button and after that the valve will start buzzing)
After that you move the brake lever or stick, whatever you use, in the brake off position and press one time the button.
After 2 seconds the valve will start buzzing again and you are ready for step two.
In step two you move the the brake lever or stick to the maximum brake on position and press the valve button twice.
After that the valve will stop buzzing and you can check if you did everything correctly by moving the brake activation lever or stick
from brake off to maximum brake.
The valve should be quiet in brake off position, then start buzzing while you move the throttle lever or stick towards the max brake position and finally stop buzzing when you reach the maximum brake position.
The led on the top of the valve should be off at the minimum position then start flashing in the proportional area (below maximum braking position and then stay always lit when the maximum brake position is reached.
If you need to do it all over again then you must reset the valve (push 5 times the button quickly) and start again.
I don't intend to describe the minimum - maximum braking adjustment because is a little confusing.
Anyway i don't like this valve because it consumes a lot of air when set for proportional braking and i will probably get a UP6
when the time comes.
Chris

extra 300

My Feedback: (3)

Hendrix,

Thank you very much for your cristal clear explanation which will surely make my life easier....

Best regards.

Dany

hendrix

My Feedback: (2)

Ok here is a silly question:
If i use a fuel pump and pump oil to the air brakes would they work or self destruct?
Of course i will use a speed controller, a pressure relief valve and an overflow tank.
I am wondering if i can covert the air brakes to oil operated.
Chris

semc

I have set my jetronics brakes onto switch C (right hand switch Futaba FF8), this is the three way switch (off - Proportional - lock). The lock is for take off on short grass, the proportional (buzzing) is mid position and is mixed with evelator down.
Just prior to landing I switch to mid position and this allows me to use the brakes on down elevator if I need them, the units are fairly easy to setup by following the instructions.
The buzzing ( proportional braking ) is because the end positions have not been setup on the units

extra 300

My Feedback: (3)

semc,

Your setup looks very interesting. Could you please advise more details on how you programmed valve and TX?

Thanks.

semc

The programming is fairly easy for the Futaba FF8.
The valve is setup in proportional braking(the buzzing mode), as explained by Hendrix in the above link, next you need to setup two program mixes, to a three way switch, I use switch C which is easy to operate when flying.
My program setting are

PMIX1 Master (ELV) Slave (CH7 brake) atv down elevator -100, atv up elevator -87 this sets the movement needed for the OFF position and the Full brake on position, SWITCH C Centre. When you operate the elevator from neutral to full down elevator the brake should buzz proportionally and stay fully on with full down elevator.

PMIX2 Master (CH7) Slave (CH7) atv down elevator -100, atv up elevator +100 Link ON switch C down. This will lock the brakes for takeoff on short grass strips.

Make sure that you select mid switch when landing and use your down elevator to control braking, I accidentally selected full brakes once and was landing about 40mph, the boomerang stopped in four feet using the jet A1's but no damage.

semc

Can anybody tell me another method for securing the wings and booms on the BI, one of my securing clamps is badly worn and boomerang do not do spares of the plastic runners

MartinL

Hi, my Boomerang is finally finished and hopefully coming sunday I will maiden it. Jet 1A gear with a P80 for power, should work [>:]

Carsten Groen

Hi Martin,
looks nice !
I have also a P80 in mine, you have enough power

Is it possible for you to take a picture of the frontwheel, I have just a complete set of Jet 1A retracts from Digitech, and I'm looking for ideas for the install of the frontwheel....

Regards,
Carsten

digitech

My Feedback: (10)

hi Carsten
just a idea

Roger Suckling

If done the way you show will the front wheel be fully inside the fuselage when retracted?

Roger

Carsten Groen

Thanks Sandor !

That will even keep the steering servo in it's "original" place == less work which I like

I was very impressed with the gears, it sure looks and feels like a quality product !
The only problem I might face, is to get room for the "air bottle", I have put my pump, fuel valves and ECU under the "floor" to keep the install "clean to the eye", hence no room below for the bottle...
I have a couple of "gas bottles" from my 3 jetcat turbines, I might install two of those instead, any thoughts ?

Regards,
Carsten

digitech

My Feedback: (10)

no it will always stick out a bit ..

digitech

My Feedback: (10)

next to the fueltank?
what turbine are you using?

Carsten Groen

I'm using a P80, and a 2 liter tank from "RS componets", no room at the tank

Regards,
Carsten

MartinL

Hi Carsten, I´ll make a few shots of the nose gear install for you later on this week.
I´m using the springair 101 retracts with the Jet1A struts and wheels/brakes. The way I fitted the nosegear it fully retracts into the fuselage, so when it´s retracted no parts of the nosestrut/wheel sticks out!

hendrix

My Feedback: (2)

Or do what i am doing right now.
Use a ram cylinder or better a Eurokit oil brake pump together with a strong servo and convert the air operated brakes to fully proportional
Hydraulic brakes.
I don't know if your brakes can be oil operated but i checked mine and they can, so i am converting them to oil brakes.
There are two ways you can do this:
1) use a oil pump of some type (Eurokit, ram cylinder, syringe etc.) and one strong servo.
2) a speed controller, one fuel pump, one tee connector, one small tank full of oil and a wheel collar.
The main output of the oil tank goes to the pump input.
The output of the pump goes to the tee connector and then one end goes tot he brakes and the other to the return path of the small oil tank.
the wheel collar goes around the return tube from the tee connector and by adjusting how much oil can get back to the oil tank you can adjust the maximum pressure.
The speed controller adjust the brake pressure.
Both systems are true proportional because the pressure does not fall like the pressure from an air tank so if you move the brake stick an X amount it will always correspond to the same braking effect.
I won't know if everything worked ok until i finish the conversion but i can't think of any reason why not.
Chris

hendrix

My Feedback: (2)

Oh yes it works perfectly well!!!
I am now testing it for any loss of pressure over time.
If it holds a preset pressure for over a week i am set to go.
There is no point of having a Hydraulic system that leaks air.
I will let you know...
Chris

Ayrtonsenna

My Feedback: (1)

Hi MartinL:
I'm also hoping to get the nose gear fully retracted, so I'm really interested in the pictures your going to post
As I'm about to order my jet1A gear- so is it rail mount or fire wall- I should order-

(My Boomas in Australia...[])

Ants

nt flyer

Hi Ants, I am waiting on my Boomer too. do you have an updated delivery time? When I last spoke to Peter Agnew, he inidcated they'll be here towards the end of the month.

Cheers,

Greg

Ayrtonsenna

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Greg-
Yeah.....Ive been told end of November now.......its a bit of a bugger as a good friend of mine whos working in OZ was going to bring mine home, but due to the late delivery date- hes coming home with out it.......arhhhhhhhh
I managed to get a quote the other day / freight to NZ from Vic $280!!!

So if theres anyone one out there...planing a trip to oz at the end of November.....hehe....if only [&o]

What retracts you going for?

Ants

nt flyer

$280, Bugger!

After much thought I decided to go with the Jet1A set. Mark Kyle (and Sandor) organised this for me. Very nice gear! Go for it, you wont be dissapointed!


Cheers,

Greg

hendrix

My Feedback: (2)

Hi.
I have to add some details for the brake conversion i made to my Boomerang.
The conversion works perfectly well for the brakes that use pistons
(i have the Intairco brakes but i assume that any machined piston system will work)
and not the O ring method.
Simply i used the fuel pump method (Flightworks 200B, 9,5 bar max pressure@no flow)
and i removed one piston from each brake in order to remove air from the system
and completely fill the brakes with oil.
The brakes did not leaked and the overflow tank makes sure that if any oil leaks exist (minute quantity) the system replenish the oil lost from the tank.
The pros are:
1) perfect proportional braking all the time.
2) No need for air.
3) you always know how much brake input to use since the fluid does not get lost like air.
4) The whole system can be made smaller in volume than the air bottle.

Cons:
1) the system is slightly heavier (well about one pump's worth of weight) than the air system.
2) more expensive.
3) you better make sure that no leaks are present

Chris

Carsten Groen

Chris,
pictures, pleeeeze

Regards,
Carsten

hendrix

My Feedback: (2)

I forgot to mention that i also used the syringe-piston and servo system that also worked very well.
Let me take some picture and i will post them.
The pump system is buried under the plywood deck where the air tank used to be and it is a little difficult to get to it.
I am testing both methods so i can decide what to do.
The servo-piston method is simpler lighter and works very well.
Chris