Bobcat rigging....
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From: Daytona Beach
Well, the BC is just about ready for test flight this weekend (weather permitting). Still have to plumb the tanks and do some more radio programing but all the gear is in. Pics should be up on the site shortly but here are a few....
Todd
Todd
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From: Daytona Beach
Matt,
Would it be best to install the filter right at the feed line coming off the UAT to the pump? Thats what I had planned? If I am using powermax, should I still have a filter in-line from the propane tank before the valve?
Anyone flying a BC with a JR 460T gyro?? Just wondering what percentage to set the gyro at with gear-down, will 50% be enough? Have 10% at gear up, should I increase/decrease this?
Have you found BV's recommended throws to be ok for first flights?
TIA...
Todd
Would it be best to install the filter right at the feed line coming off the UAT to the pump? Thats what I had planned? If I am using powermax, should I still have a filter in-line from the propane tank before the valve?
Anyone flying a BC with a JR 460T gyro?? Just wondering what percentage to set the gyro at with gear-down, will 50% be enough? Have 10% at gear up, should I increase/decrease this?
Have you found BV's recommended throws to be ok for first flights?
TIA...
Todd
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Originally posted by lov2flyrc
Matt,
Would it be best to install the filter right at the feed line coming off the UAT to the pump? Thats what I had planned? If I am using powermax, should I still have a filter in-line from the propane tank before the valve?
Matt,
Would it be best to install the filter right at the feed line coming off the UAT to the pump? Thats what I had planned? If I am using powermax, should I still have a filter in-line from the propane tank before the valve?
The propane filter goes just befor eht shutoff valve as well. It can have any orientation and be rigidly mounted if you desire.
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From: Daytona Beach
Matt,
Wouldent you want the filter before the pump to stop any possible particles from passing through it? Think my kangaroo is set up that way, should I change this?? Why cant you rigidly mount the kero filter (just curious)?? Always learning
Todd
Wouldent you want the filter before the pump to stop any possible particles from passing through it? Think my kangaroo is set up that way, should I change this?? Why cant you rigidly mount the kero filter (just curious)?? Always learning
Todd
#9
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Hi Todd,
I'm sure opinons will vary - but my preference would be for the filter to be after the pump. That way, if the pump should for any reason shed any material, it gets caught in the filter instead of going through the engine.
That's not a bash at the quality of the pump BTW - just me being cautious. Just two weeks ago at the Reno Air Races, we had a $1000 high-spec ADI pump start shedding minute bits of plastic after only 30 minutes of use... so if this can happen with a $1000 part, it can surely happen on our relatively cheaper and lower-spec parts.
Gordon
I'm sure opinons will vary - but my preference would be for the filter to be after the pump. That way, if the pump should for any reason shed any material, it gets caught in the filter instead of going through the engine.
That's not a bash at the quality of the pump BTW - just me being cautious. Just two weeks ago at the Reno Air Races, we had a $1000 high-spec ADI pump start shedding minute bits of plastic after only 30 minutes of use... so if this can happen with a $1000 part, it can surely happen on our relatively cheaper and lower-spec parts.
Gordon
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From: Daytona Beach
Originally posted by Gordon Mc
Hi Todd,
I'm sure opinons will vary - but my preference would be for the filter to be after the pump. That way, if the pump should for any reason shed any material, it gets caught in the filter instead of going through the engine.
That's not a bash at the quality of the pump BTW - just me being cautious. Just two weeks ago at the Reno Air Races, we had a $1000 high-spec ADI pump start shedding minute bits of plastic after only 30 minutes of use... so if this can happen with a $1000 part, it can surely happen on our relatively cheaper and lower-spec parts.
Gordon
Hi Todd,
I'm sure opinons will vary - but my preference would be for the filter to be after the pump. That way, if the pump should for any reason shed any material, it gets caught in the filter instead of going through the engine.
That's not a bash at the quality of the pump BTW - just me being cautious. Just two weeks ago at the Reno Air Races, we had a $1000 high-spec ADI pump start shedding minute bits of plastic after only 30 minutes of use... so if this can happen with a $1000 part, it can surely happen on our relatively cheaper and lower-spec parts.
Gordon
Todd
#11

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Gordon has hit it on the head, you want to catch anything coming AFTER the pump, before it can clog the shutoff valve or the turbine. The pump can pretty much take anything a UAT can offer it (you get a lot of filter action from a UAT BTW). We put the UAT into the manual, it really is a pretty much mandatory piece of equipment as far as JetCAT USA is concerned.
As for the kero filter, we believe that, incorrectly installed, the kero filter can become a sort of air trap, capturing "micro" air bubbles and thereby creating an air pocket within the filter itself. At the wrong time (of course!) the pocket gets expelled, goes into the turbine and you flame out.
So first and foremost, mount the filter vertically. That will allow these "micro" bubbles to go through the pump and on to the turbine without adverse effect.
As for not rigid mounting, if the filter is loose on the line, the natural jostling of the plane will help dislodge any micro bubbles before they get big enough to matter.
Also a loose mounted filter is easier to check for dirt and to flush as needed. Over time you will need to do that.
Good luck
Matt
As for the kero filter, we believe that, incorrectly installed, the kero filter can become a sort of air trap, capturing "micro" air bubbles and thereby creating an air pocket within the filter itself. At the wrong time (of course!) the pocket gets expelled, goes into the turbine and you flame out.
So first and foremost, mount the filter vertically. That will allow these "micro" bubbles to go through the pump and on to the turbine without adverse effect.
As for not rigid mounting, if the filter is loose on the line, the natural jostling of the plane will help dislodge any micro bubbles before they get big enough to matter.
Also a loose mounted filter is easier to check for dirt and to flush as needed. Over time you will need to do that.
Good luck
Matt
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From: Ft Wayne, IN
Per the instruction that came with my JETCAT , the filter should be in-line between the kerosene shut-off valve and the fuel pump.
http://www.jetcatusa.com/PDFFiles/In...onManualV4.pdf page 12/64
http://www.jetcatusa.com/PDFFiles/In...onManualV4.pdf page 12/64
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From: Daytona Beach
Originally posted by ghost_rider
Per the instruction that came with my JETCAT , the filter should be in-line between the kerosene shut-off valve and the fuel pump.
http://www.jetcatusa.com/PDFFiles/In...onManualV4.pdf page 12/64
Per the instruction that came with my JETCAT , the filter should be in-line between the kerosene shut-off valve and the fuel pump.
http://www.jetcatusa.com/PDFFiles/In...onManualV4.pdf page 12/64
Thanks Ben,
Hey I put that manual on the site, guess I should have read it huh...
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From: Ft Wayne, IN
Originally posted by lov2flyrc
Thanks Ben,
Hey I put that manual on the site, guess I should have read it huh...
Thanks Ben,
Hey I put that manual on the site, guess I should have read it huh...
Later
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From: Oxford, MS
Anyone flying a BC with a JR 460T gyro?? Just wondering what percentage to set the gyro at with gear-down, will 50% be enough? Have 10% at gear up, should I increase/decrease this?
Todd,
I have mine set for about 10% gear up and around 60% gear down. I also leave the knob active so that I can vary this depending upon the conditions. If you have a strong crosswind you might want more compensation gear down.
DR
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From: Daytona Beach
David,
How does this work with the knob? If I set the atv to 60% I have 60% gyro with gear down, right? Now if I leave the knob active as well, this would mean at full travel on the knob I would max at 60%, right? Or do I set the atv at 100% and aproximate 60% on the knob giving me the option to go to 100% gyro? Never used a gyro like this, a bit confusing.....
Todd
How does this work with the knob? If I set the atv to 60% I have 60% gyro with gear down, right? Now if I leave the knob active as well, this would mean at full travel on the knob I would max at 60%, right? Or do I set the atv at 100% and aproximate 60% on the knob giving me the option to go to 100% gyro? Never used a gyro like this, a bit confusing.....
Todd
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From: Oxford, MS
Todd,
First off I am using a JR 10X I plug the gyro into the rudder channel and the gain into Aux 5. I mix Aux 5 to Aux 5. I activate it with the retract switch. I set the values up by trial and error until I get 10% gear up and 60% gear down. I can get more gain or I can turn it off by turning the knob.
DR
First off I am using a JR 10X I plug the gyro into the rudder channel and the gain into Aux 5. I mix Aux 5 to Aux 5. I activate it with the retract switch. I set the values up by trial and error until I get 10% gear up and 60% gear down. I can get more gain or I can turn it off by turning the knob.
DR
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From: Daytona Beach
Not helping me here David
, you know I fly Futaba
.I know the 10x has a gyro field that the futaba systems do not have.
From what you stated I gather that you have a estimated spot on the dial that you turn it to get the required 60% gain gear down? From there you can add or subtract gain by rotating the dial in the required direction?
Am I correct in assuming that the amount of gyro gain is directy controlled by the amout of ATV (EPA) you give the aux gyro channel? If this is the case then if I leave the ATV at 100% with the dial mixed in, I would turn the dial to what I perceive to be 60% of the total dial rotation?
Any Futaba fliers out there know the correct way to set this up?
Todd
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From: Marine on St. Croix,
MN
Todd
I think it's a good idea to zip-tie or velcro in the main tank that sits on the wing, should you be one of those people that has there hatch pop off. It happened to me once in twenty eight flights this year.
Scott
I think it's a good idea to zip-tie or velcro in the main tank that sits on the wing, should you be one of those people that has there hatch pop off. It happened to me once in twenty eight flights this year.
Scott
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From: Daytona Beach
Scott,
how the heck did you loose the hatch?? Was the pin not long enough? I am using those carbon blocks BV provides to secure the tank in the hatch, did you not install them?
Todd
OOOps....just re-read your post and I think you mean the tank in the fuse not the wing.....Yes, already have made provisions to tie that tank down when I have completed plumbing them. Thanks for the input though.....
Todd
how the heck did you loose the hatch?? Was the pin not long enough? I am using those carbon blocks BV provides to secure the tank in the hatch, did you not install them?
Todd
OOOps....just re-read your post and I think you mean the tank in the fuse not the wing.....Yes, already have made provisions to tie that tank down when I have completed plumbing them. Thanks for the input though.....
Todd
#22
David or anyone else. How are you mounting the fuel filter?
Horizontal or vertical. Right now mine is horizontal. Should I change this to prevent a posible problem later. Leaving for Superman Monday morning. No new news on Dan's mother.
Horizontal or vertical. Right now mine is horizontal. Should I change this to prevent a posible problem later. Leaving for Superman Monday morning. No new news on Dan's mother.
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From: Daytona Beach
No way man, already had one expensive switch this year. Besides...going from a FF9 to a 10sx is like going from windows programing to Unix
. I'll figure it out I guess, just have to sit down with the radio and play.... Now, if you want to donate your 10x to the cause.....
Todd
#25

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Todd,
Go to BV's web site and take a look at the hatch addendum. Due to the angle of the canopy/fuse the hatch pin does not engage far enough. It may look like it does on the ground. I don't know if the fuse is flexing under loads or if air pressure is building up inside of the fuse through the nose gear opening, (or a combo of both) but quite a few BobCat hatches have parted company with the fuse. Those of you that just Velcro the RX and gyro in the fuse could find them flopping around in the breeze once the hatch parts company.... Kevin
Go to BV's web site and take a look at the hatch addendum. Due to the angle of the canopy/fuse the hatch pin does not engage far enough. It may look like it does on the ground. I don't know if the fuse is flexing under loads or if air pressure is building up inside of the fuse through the nose gear opening, (or a combo of both) but quite a few BobCat hatches have parted company with the fuse. Those of you that just Velcro the RX and gyro in the fuse could find them flopping around in the breeze once the hatch parts company.... Kevin


