Ali

My Feedback: (5)

Very nice work Henry. Despite the scheme that Sung picked [:'(] You still made his plane look great. Just as long as his is no better than mine! Remember the second one should always come out the best
Do we need to get some stronger springs for the rear Oleos? Also does john have the pilot figures in stock? If so mine will need a little more of a tan than what they are supplied with from the manufacturer. Is there anything else tha you need for mine??? Did you manage to get a three/four view showing the missile pylons fitted?

schroedm

My Feedback: (1)

Al,

I imagine you're gonna have a big old smile on ya face when you pick yours up from Henry's place! Are you having a full set of ordanance on it too or just the rails?

Rgds,
Mark

schroedm

My Feedback: (1)

David,

Regarding the grilles on top of the fuselage, I had Thomas cut me a pair from some thin Ali sheet as on is model. Took a while to come through but they look good now I have them

Rgds,
Mark

David Gladwin

Ok, Mark I'll swap templates for the stab covers and tracks for templates of the intake grills !
Regards, David Gladwin.

mick15

I can't vouch for that scenario regarding a certain t33!!

schroedm

My Feedback: (1)

Guys,

Originally got a P160 for my Hawk but will now be putting that in my Lightning. Do you guys reckon I should just get another 160 or, now that JetCat have reduced their prices, go for a P180 in the Hawk??

Any views?

Rgds,
Mark

john agnew

Mark

No! I think you should go for a Merlin 160 Mk2, 40lbs of thrust for £2,195.00! And better fuel consumption and spool up than the Jetcat.

John

schroedm

My Feedback: (1)

Needs to be a JetCat [8D]

So, P160 or P180?

Ali

My Feedback: (5)

Go with the 160 in the hawk, put the 180 in the lightning if you have to. The 160 is overpowered in the hawk so I cant see what use the 180 would be I have flown most of the large airworld models now and once in the air they need such little power that I really cant see the need for much other than a 120. The Panther that i flew for Sung in the Florida heat, with all of the extra scale detail still only flew at 3/4 with a Titan in it. The Hawk I think will work out lighter and be a cleaner airframe.
Before buying another turbine you need to finish one of these jets Sorry couldn't resist that one
Regards Al

schroedm

My Feedback: (1)

OK, 160 it is!

Yeah, yeah, I know! If I had an international army of builders working for me then I'd get them done sooner too

If it's any consolation, I should have that Fliton Mini Extra finished by the weekend?!?

See ya,
M

David Gladwin

Flap vanes:

I have built exact scale flap vanes from 1 /64th ply and balsa substructure with lite ply ribs. Chord is 1 inch and section is in the Red Arrows book. The rear wing structure will not allow correct mounting of the vane on the flap so you have to move it back 1/2 inch and this narrows the gaps between the vane and flap and the vane and flap shroud. I think its the nearest it is possible to get to exact scale without modifying the wing structure and that would leave a lot of the top section of the flap shroud (upper wing skin) unsupported. Standoffs will be 1/ 16th glass board.

I think this layout will still act as a very effective double slotted flap as the gap between the vane and flap is nicely convergent.

Regards,

David Gladwin.

Craig B.

Hi David,

Got any pics?

Regards,

Craig.

hvnmodels

I just made the plug for the large wing drop tanks and pylons also.

schroedm

My Feedback: (1)

Henry,

Very nice work! (as usual).

Are you going to be offering any of these parts for sale??

Rgds,
Mark

Ali

My Feedback: (5)

Please tell me that they are drop able.
Regards Al

schroedm

My Feedback: (1)

and that it will be finished by Top Gun??

hvnmodels

Ali,

There is no way I am going to make those drop... After all this work, I am not going to let you smash them with a 200 ft. drop

Yes, both tank sizes will be offered as parts after Top Gun

Ali

My Feedback: (5)

Thats not Fair. Sung's one drops!!!!
If it makes you feel any better I will drop them from three feet. Oh scratch that I mean 25 feet.. Sorry Frank [:@]

-JC-

My Feedback: (26)

Ali, I will see if I can squeeze Henry a bit. I also want to see those big tanks come off in flight. I mean, how tough can it be to install a simple drop mechanism Henry? I thought you where the master builder[&:]

BTW. Henry has 3 of the planes he build (Maybe even 4) competing in Top Gun this year. That has to be a record.

Ali

My Feedback: (5)

Thank's John. I agree a master builder could do it. Hey stuff it. I will come out a few days early and I will make them come off myself.
They have to come off. Even my Girlfriend says the have to come off, but then again she did ask what batteries they take

-JC-

My Feedback: (26)

[sm=bananahead.gif]

David Gladwin

You asked for pictures, heres my interim solution to the flap vane. The vanes were constructed with 1 /64th ply skins, lite ply ribs and balsa leading edges, glass clothed. Scale section, chord 1 inch and span 18 5/8th inches. Clamped to 4 inch plastic water pipe whilst glue set, gives correct camber to undersurface of vane.
Stand offs construted from 1/16th glass board let into flap LE. Slots cut in undersurface of vane to receive standoffs.
LE of vane is 3/8th inch ahead of flap LE, defined by space behind rear wing structure. gap, at rear of vane is 1/16th inch above flap surface and that gap stays almost constant at all flap angles.

Thats it really.

The vane now forms a double slot which, in theory, should make the flap more effective giving higher CL but with a nose down pitching moment due to aft movement of center of pressure.Thats the theory, flight test will prove or otherwise !

The top of one wing panel had taken a wobbly line above the flap,housing . This was corrected by using 3/8th inch strips of CF, 2 inches long as shown, going through the rear wing structure and glued with Hysol and clamped to a Permagrit straight edge. This edge is now dead straight and stiff. This is how I will support the upper wing skin when I move the rear wing spar forward (by 1/2 inch) so that I can fit a scale vane in exact scale position on my next Hawk. 1/4 inch by 2 inch strips of CF every 1 1/2 inches will be used.

David Gladwin

OK, what suggestions do you guys have for the hingeing the small door on the main gear to give the correct open position, i/e. the leading edge just touching the main door and the bottom corner slightly forward of it and, of course, flush when the door is closed.

I have finished the secondary door on the nose gear (used small hinges cut from glass board) but scale connecting rods are not possible as the geometry of the nose unit is very different from the real thing (the pivot position is totally different.) Ideas?

Ideas would be welcome for both problems then I can get on and finish painting the thing.

Kit no 2 has arrived. Instruction CD is much better and includes CG, travels and former location. Kit also included a mount for the nose steering servo and some wooden bits with I cannot see in any photos and can't think of any use for, having structurally finished no 1 !
............................and just to cheer you all up, if you are thinking of doing a Red Arrows scheme be prepared for a LOT of work for the white paint masking. Drawing stright lines on compound curves is tedious and then some !

Regards, David Gladwin.

Craig B.

Hi David,

Please check your pm's.

Thanks,

Craig.

David Gladwin

Whilst some epoxy sets let me save you guys some time.

Main gear installation. I found that the main retract units needed to be packed up at the outboard ends of the flanges with a piece of 1/64th ply . This allows the main gear door to close properly. Dimensions here are VERY tight so accurate work is essential.

After installation of the main gear install wing to fuselage and check the wheel tracking dead accurately, no space in the well to allow toe-in or out. THEN proceed to do the attchament of the secondary doors which are attached to the strut, any subsequent rotation of the main strut to correct tracking will move the secondary door. .......and thats why I am waiting for glue to set !

Now that the tracking is accurately set I will drill and tap a hole right through the leg and into the spigot to ensure the leg can't twist under landing loads, doubt if two set screws are sufficient.

My new kit has substantially stronger springs in the main gear units, probably to prevent the swerving seen on Tommy's in Hungary.

Ah, that glue is set !

Regards,

David Gladwin.

Just had an email from ralle at Tailor Made Decals, they have the answer to the canopy MDC or exploding string as he calls it. !

These are great guys with top notch products at very reasonable prices, they have done decals and paint masks for my Mig 29 and Hawk and supplied all the entrants at the last JWM. Take a look:

www. tailormadedecals.com

Well, come on guys how about a solution to the small door problem, my brain's beginning to hurt thinking about this problem, there MUST be an answer !