Just wondering if anyone has any different methods of riveting they would like to share.
I have tried a few different methods but always seem to go back to burning them in one at a time, I even made a wheel with limited success. I have 3 different sizes on my F18 a little trick I find is to have a little cap of solvent to dip the brass tip in to keep it clean. I also find it easier to do all the fastener and screw head detail after paint with less heat.
Heres a few pics of my F18 the bottom is done just working on the top.

Thanks

Ted

where are the pictures??????????????

Sorry about that , my pics don't upload for some reason

Ted

Burned in ones work well for a primered and glass surface. Tried a bit in a dremel once but it wandered way to much. I use a tip from the iron that is turned down to the correct outer DIA and then drill a hole in the center to complete the tool. this leaves a small ring in the surface. For raised rivets, you can go the glue drop route, which I am sure we all have used. They are not the same size for each and everyone. The dimple after drying looks bad. I have used thick CA out of a insulin syringe, I think they are better than white glue as they dry with no dimple. But still various sizes. the best I have found is to make them out of plastic sheet and glue them on. They are ALL the same size, no dimples and you can line up each row perfectly straight. You can make different sizes to use on each plane.

Now that took some time P-47 [X(],,,,,,,, very nice

Hey P47dman

Looks good, how do you make plastic rivets.
Do you cut them out with a brass tube on a drill or can you buy them.

Thanks

Ted

Ok Dave-Inquiring minds want to know-Can you give us a step by step on the abs plastic rivet method-ie, what kind of glue is used to glue them down, and is there some sort of jig to keep things lined up. PS That C-45 looks ALOT like the one that proudly resides in my hangar !

Hi Mike, by golly it is pretty close to yours!
The plastic rivets are glued on one at a time with green CA. They are made from sheet styrene, you can use various thickness for the effect that you want to produce. the ones in the pics are from .015 plastic. I have a punch block made from steel that has a hole drilled into it the same size as the punch. The punch is made from music wire in what ever DIA that you want the rivets to be.
Now that you have just punched out 10,000 rivets you need to glue them on. First lay out the pattern on the plane. I just use a #2 pencil with very light pressure, this way when all is done you come back and wipe the lines with denatured alcohol to remove them. Don't want them bleeding through paint. One of the tools that you will need is a clear, flexible plastic ruler. You can see through it to line up each row of rivets, this way they are all perfectly straight and uniform distance apart. Since it is a ruler with increments already marked out, this makes it very easy to space the rivets exactly 1/4 1/8 apart, what ever your scale is. since the ruler is flexible you can tape it in place around curves, fuse, where ever is needed.
So you now have your pattern layed out, your ruler taped next to your line, your rivets ready to pickup with a new exacto blade, if the blade is sharp all that is needed is to just touch the rivets and this will pick them up. Take a paint brushed dipped in zip kicker and paint 5 or 6 inches of your rivet line, this makes them stick instantly and not wander off course. Pick up a rivet, dip it into green CA, just barely touch the puddle of CA, to much will leave a ring outside of the rivet, then touch down in its location, with the zip kicker already applied. Now just walk down your ruler and glue a mess of them on. you will be surprised at how fast they can go.
I think they are much better than glue drops as they are the same as the next one, no dimples and using the ruler they are all perfectly straight.
They work well if you have a glass fuse that has rivets molded in. You can use them to duplicate them onto the wing and tail surfaces as you can make them any size and thickness that you want.
Oh yah and by the way, you have to watch lots of hockey games while you apply them.
Give them a try, you will like them. Dave.

Hi Dave

That is a great way of applying raised rivets, I'll try that method.
Thanks for the input

Ted

Vario has 2 types of rivets they sell .. for larger scales, one is a drill and insert kit, and the other which i have used with good efect is a stick on type ..

http://us.vario-helicopter.biz/shop/...ducts_id=33787

http://us.vario-helicopter.biz/shop/...ducts_id=31668

Wojtek

OK Dave-Got it-One last question-What do you mean by 'green CA' ? Thanks-Mike

Medium CA.

Pink = thin
Green = medium
Yellow = thick


Has she flown yet Mike?

TOO &&$#@ busy at work-Hopefully will get some time off soon-Mike