making your own servo ends
#2

My Feedback: (24)
Mark,
I know some guys I work with in the UAV area bought the stuff and tried it. They're no dummies, but they said that the reliability of their in-house ends weren't as good as the commercial ones, so they stopped doing it and just make custom lengths by splicing wires - which is what I do...
Bob
I know some guys I work with in the UAV area bought the stuff and tried it. They're no dummies, but they said that the reliability of their in-house ends weren't as good as the commercial ones, so they stopped doing it and just make custom lengths by splicing wires - which is what I do...
Bob
#4

My Feedback: (18)
I bought all the stuff to make my own ends.... I find its easier and more reliable to just cut and solder in an extension of HD wire... Crimping the gold connector properly and getting it all the way into the plug is a PIA...
Still do it for my micro helicopters, where the heat shrink from the solder job would be too stiff...but on a long extension... I say solder it...
Mike
Still do it for my micro helicopters, where the heat shrink from the solder job would be too stiff...but on a long extension... I say solder it...
Mike
#5
Banned
My Feedback: (119)
I also spent bucks for the whole Custom Electronics connector kit, the crimping tool, plenty of supplies, all that stuff. Sits in a drawer gather ing dust. Not only is it more time consuming to make your own connectors, they are just incredibly unreliable...dangerously so. I won't use the stuff. Much easier and safer to solder in an extension. Like all the others are saying.
#7
Senior Member
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Folks,
Thought I would share some connectors I have used for a number of years and they work AWESOME. AMP makes a line of connectors called MTE. They come in different pin counts. I use the 3-pin version (obviously).
The nice thing about the connectors is they have a locking tab on them, so you don't need to use any type of extra clamp to make sure they don't pull free. They also are the EXACT same size as the original Servo Ends (see pics)
The connectors come in a variety of !QUOT!crimp!QUOT! styles. I use both the Speed Crimp style, shown here, and the style where you crimp each pin individually.
I show in the pics the crimper you use. It works really slick as you don't have to strip the wire, just insert in into the connector and squeeze.
The single crimp style requires you to strip the wire.
Another good thing is the connectors also come without the locking tab so it will plug right into your receiver as well.
Just my thoughts, hope it helps.
Kevin
Thought I would share some connectors I have used for a number of years and they work AWESOME. AMP makes a line of connectors called MTE. They come in different pin counts. I use the 3-pin version (obviously).
The nice thing about the connectors is they have a locking tab on them, so you don't need to use any type of extra clamp to make sure they don't pull free. They also are the EXACT same size as the original Servo Ends (see pics)
The connectors come in a variety of !QUOT!crimp!QUOT! styles. I use both the Speed Crimp style, shown here, and the style where you crimp each pin individually.
I show in the pics the crimper you use. It works really slick as you don't have to strip the wire, just insert in into the connector and squeeze.
The single crimp style requires you to strip the wire.
Another good thing is the connectors also come without the locking tab so it will plug right into your receiver as well.
Just my thoughts, hope it helps.
Kevin
#8

My Feedback: (60)
Kevin, can you post specific website and specific part numbers and description of each part number so that I can order some of that?
I would like the crimper as well, sounds like that would be a lot easier than the single wire strip and crimp method.
I would like the crimper as well, sounds like that would be a lot easier than the single wire strip and crimp method.
#10

My Feedback: (24)
Kevin,
I third that request, please post the details if you have them. I found the connectors at Newark (www.newark.com), but its a bit confusing to figure out what is needed to make a connection. Perhaps your source has it laid out better?
Bob
I third that request, please post the details if you have them. I found the connectors at Newark (www.newark.com), but its a bit confusing to figure out what is needed to make a connection. Perhaps your source has it laid out better?
Bob
#11
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From: Slidell,
LA
I had some custom harnesses made using those locking AMP connectors, and I have to say that they are very nice! I had the matching connectors put on my servos at the wings and now have a nice locking connector that easily unplugs.
#12
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From: ST. CLAIR, AUSTRALIA
Hi Guys,
I spent some money on my own tools. I bought a MOLEX crimper capable of crimping Graupner wire. Costed me over $500 AUS + about $1.00 every pin. I have JR ends, male and female also FUTABA.
However I never use it soo far, stays there for a while now. To crimp one end costs $3.00 AUS if you make no mistake so both ends $6.00. You still need some wire in the plane but you have a lead to your spec. I am building now an Lightening (Composite ARF). I let you know how I am going. I crimped once with it and was PERFECT! but at what cost, don't ask me.
Regards,
EUGEN
I spent some money on my own tools. I bought a MOLEX crimper capable of crimping Graupner wire. Costed me over $500 AUS + about $1.00 every pin. I have JR ends, male and female also FUTABA.
However I never use it soo far, stays there for a while now. To crimp one end costs $3.00 AUS if you make no mistake so both ends $6.00. You still need some wire in the plane but you have a lead to your spec. I am building now an Lightening (Composite ARF). I let you know how I am going. I crimped once with it and was PERFECT! but at what cost, don't ask me.
Regards,
EUGEN
#15
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From: Slidell,
LA
Hey Kevin,
Yea, that's what I thought( I almost called Without A Trace).....as a matter of fact I have been waiting all this time for some landing gear springs...I'm sure there is some sort of explanation...........[X(]
However just last weekend I got in an order from McMaster Carr and I now have heavier main spring and also an inner spring in the main struts.
I intend on going to the Austin jet meet and Mississippi Afterburner this year. The 15 is ready to fly and will fly this spring!! I'm also working my next project.....a Reaction 54 morphed into an L-39
Take care
Yea, that's what I thought( I almost called Without A Trace).....as a matter of fact I have been waiting all this time for some landing gear springs...I'm sure there is some sort of explanation...........[X(]
However just last weekend I got in an order from McMaster Carr and I now have heavier main spring and also an inner spring in the main struts.

I intend on going to the Austin jet meet and Mississippi Afterburner this year. The 15 is ready to fly and will fly this spring!! I'm also working my next project.....a Reaction 54 morphed into an L-39
Take care
#16
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From: Murphy NC
Kevin
I would really appreciate the info on this as well.
Currently I am working on a 13 foot Yak for IMAC flying that needs lead to the Tail that are over 9 feet.
Thanks for ur help
Ian
#17
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From: Slidell,
LA
Ian there is an article on http://gsal.org/
Look under articles/electronics and the tests this guy did seem to suggest that twisted servo leads are the way to go for long runs.
Look under articles/electronics and the tests this guy did seem to suggest that twisted servo leads are the way to go for long runs.
#18

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i use something the same a kevin suggested, they are called ashloks, and are
basicly the same, but I sometimes use a 6 way, rather than a 2 way to
save me pluging in too many leads when its cold.
see http://www.rc-expertise.com/index.ph...ownload&id=174
http://www.rc-expertise.com/index.ph...ownload&id=175
http://www.ashlok.co.uk/
basicly the same, but I sometimes use a 6 way, rather than a 2 way to
save me pluging in too many leads when its cold.
see http://www.rc-expertise.com/index.ph...ownload&id=174
http://www.rc-expertise.com/index.ph...ownload&id=175
http://www.ashlok.co.uk/
#19

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From: Daytona Beach
Dreamworks is now the US distributor for Ashlok connectors. First shipment due in this week. Have a look...
http://dreamworksrc.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=105_106
http://dreamworksrc.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=105_106
#20
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Mr. Mikes post has the info I think your all looking for (Thanks Mike). I have never used the crimper he shows, only the one from AMP, but be warned that the AMP crimper may be $$$$$.
I am sure it will work to crimp individual pins/sockets.
Thanks.
I am sure it will work to crimp individual pins/sockets.
Thanks.
#22
ORIGINAL: lov2flyrc
Dreamworks is now the US distributor for Ashlok connectors. First shipment due in this week. Have a look...
http://dreamworksrc.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=105_106
Dreamworks is now the US distributor for Ashlok connectors. First shipment due in this week. Have a look...
http://dreamworksrc.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=105_106
Making up special to type leads is not a problem with the right tools, materials and proper procedures. I've just bought a replacement crimping tool from Ashtek here in the UK that crimps both the conductor and insulation in one go and makes a good, reliable connection every time...providing the basic rules are observed. As Todd sells Ashlok stuff in the States, I presume he'll be stocking the crimping tool...and maybe the good quality HD leads and connectors, etc, that's needed to do the job. Details of the crimping tool is available at:
http://ashtekelectronics.com/store/s...tool-p-82.html
They do a tutorial on lead making on their site and sell all sorts of other goodies too.
Cheers,
Dick
England
(Not a rep for anything...just passing information on)
Edited 'cos I can't spell!
#23
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From: Swindon, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi,
Like Dick I have been doing my own servo ends for a long time without problems, I use either Als Hobbies or Ashlok for the best results, takes a little practise to get the technique right and I usually have a few scrapped. I have seen far more problems caused by people pulling on the leads to get the plugs out of the Rx than any failure on the part of the connector, anyone got a really good way to extract them, I normally a pair of curved forceps.....Mike
Like Dick I have been doing my own servo ends for a long time without problems, I use either Als Hobbies or Ashlok for the best results, takes a little practise to get the technique right and I usually have a few scrapped. I have seen far more problems caused by people pulling on the leads to get the plugs out of the Rx than any failure on the part of the connector, anyone got a really good way to extract them, I normally a pair of curved forceps.....Mike





