rjpmodel

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I have received the first set of Kevlar tanks from Gary today and they look great. I reshaped and refinished the two main plugs to get the best fit to the fuselage form. Gary has made the molds directly from my finished plugs. The fuel capacity of the two tanks came out to be a total of 83oz. I believe Charles of Yellow told me that the plastic tanks that Yellow is comming out with have a capacity of around 62 or 64oz. I decided to forget about the third small tank behind the bulkhead above the wheels for several reasons. I think 83oz will be plenty and my plug for the third tank only worked for my setup using offset struts which allowed more room but the offset part of the strut sticks down below the bottom of the fuselage. I have since re-purchased straight struts like the kit recomends. This setup will also make it easier to get at the rear mounting hardware for the tank. I am working on the mounting details and will post them shortly. Basicly the rear of the tanks will be supported by a plywood strip that is glued across the back surface of the rear outer bulkhead pieces. A piece of wood will be glued to the back of each tank which will then be screwed to the plywood strip. A piece of wood will also be glued to the top of the front of each tank and this wood will then be screwed to the speed brake servo support plywood plate. I will post more detail on the mounting after I get mine mounted. I hope to do this by tomorrow. Gary said that he has posted pictures of these first tanks on his website.

Chris Z

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Hey Bob,
do you know what the tanks are going to sell for?
Chris

rjpmodel

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Hi Chris. They are shown on Garys web site. I believe he has them listed for $135 for the pair.

rjpmodel

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I have finally completed the mounting of the first stingray tanks in my fuselage. I was delayed several days working on my computer. The following suggestions on how to mount the tanks are based on what I believe is the need to hold the tanks in the fuselage firmly and not to apply fuel weight pressure to the bottom of the fuse. The tanks are put in the fuselage on at a time down through the canopy opening. Place one tank in and slide it back and then place the other tank in and slide it back along the other. They are shaped to fit the fuselage cavity with little clearance to get the maximum fuel capacity.

The front of the tank is held up to the plywood speed brake servo plate using screws that screw down through the top of the servo mount surface between the servo and the end of the canopy opening into wood blocks (3/8” x ¾” x 2”) which are glued to the front face of the tank 1/8” down from the top surface of the tank. The 3/8” thick block just fits between the servo and the tank front surface. Make sure to sand the tank surface where glue is applied. I used Aeropoxy here.

I used spruce for the wood blocks (execpt where ply designated) but other hardwood or basswood could be used here. I have a supply of Sitka spruce left over from old spars from my full size Aeronca Champ.

Glue a 1/8” x 1.5” x 10” strip of plywood on the back surface of the rear bulkhead which is just in front of the wheel wells. A small amount (only about 1/8”) of the end (arc shape) of each bulkhead is cut away before the ply strip is glued to the bulkhead so that the end of the tanks fit through the bulkhead opening to the back surface of the bulkheads. Make sure both tanks fit through the rear bulkhead opening to the back surface. The ply strip is positioned to the bottom of the fuse.

After the ply strip is glued in, slide the tanks in and mark on the tanks where the top edge of the ply strip with a short cut off pencil so that the pencil will fit inside and the line is drawn exactly where the top of the ply strip is located.
Glue a ½” x ¾” x 2” wood block to the back surface of each tank at and above the pencil line. Again sand first.

Glue a ¼”x ½” x 4.5” ply block to the back surface of the ply strip with the ¼” edge glued to the ply strip (ply block lays horizontal). The top of the ply block is flush with the top of the ply strip. The tank is held down to the ply strip using wood screws through the bottom of the ¼” ply block up into the wood blocks glued to the tanks.

I hope these directions are clear. I will be happy to discuss any of this over the phone if any further help is desired. Thank you. Bob Price 512-259-9232.

Glorfindel

just wanna know what is the advantage to put tip tank? That way the plane will be more difficult to roll, will act slower too. I know that stingray can be slowered a little bit more on landing with tip tank, but i dont think they worth it...

rjpmodel

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I am confused. Am I missing something. Who has said anything about tip tanks??

Glorfindel

nobody lol i was just asking

ishu4u

My Feedback: (9)

any pics on the tanks in your plane?
and gary's web addr pls....
just bought the kit and gear from shaun on rcu..can't wait to get started. i think i will use a jde54 and build it myself.. what are you using for power?

rjpmodel

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Gary's address is http://www.angelfire.com/wi/jettech/. I am using a RAM500 for power. I will post some pictures of the tank mounting tomorrow if I can figure out how to post pictures. The install directions and some pictures will also be posted on Gary's site soon.

rjpmodel

My Feedback: (2)

I am sending pictures of my tank installation to Gary today along with the description. He will post them on his website within a day or two I am sure. I will also include some pictures of a new speed brake control horn setup I have built into my plane. I don't like the stock control rod setup because when the speen brake is up full (needing the most servo power) there is a very large angle between the plane of the servo arm and the linkage to the speed brake. This is a very poor way to get the power needed for the speed brake deliverered from the servo to the speed brake. I have ground the control post boss and supplied round plywood post support in the center between the vertical hinge members and glued in a plywood plate. I made a control horn out of aluminum angle material and screwed it down to the new plywood platform. the control linkage point is now farther foreward and at a much better position relative to the hinge pin. There is now a straight line between the plane of the servo arm and the control linkage hole on the control horn allowing full power to be transmitted from the servo to the speed brake. Again feel free to call me if you have any questions. 512-259-9232.

JPOFL

My Feedback: (36)

Here is a different way of doing a speedbrake for the StringRay.
I have found that this method works well on my StringRay.Getting the aircraft to slow down for a landing has been solved. I also put Wing Tip Tanks on mine I had to increased throws to give it more roll rate.I know on one of my other posts someone from over seas suggested it. Thanks.

The Fuel tanks that Gary made up work well.......
Hats off to another job well done Gary!!!!!!!!

Thanks Paul H. JPOFL

JPOFL

My Feedback: (36)

Here is another picture with the speedbrake closed.
Paul JPOFL

Glorfindel

Ok...I was just wondering if some kind of 'strut speed brake' like bobcat one can do the job. Simply putting a 'plate' on the nose gear should do a good job, isnt it?

JPOFL

My Feedback: (36)

Thanks for the guys over the big water for this Idea.
Note the Light Instlation made easy.
Paul H. JPOFL

JPOFL

My Feedback: (36)

I think there is alot of different ways to get the job done. And most all will work with a little help from past projects. If you put five guys in a room they will all come up with different ways of doing the job. That is what makes us different. When I go to shows I am always looking for new ideas.
Good Luck and Happy Holidays !!!
Paul Hopkins JPOFL

rjpmodel

My Feedback: (2)

Gary has now posted my pictures and installation instructions of the first fuel tanks installed in my plane on his web site www.angelfire.com/wi/jettech/.
Also shown and described is a mod I made on the speed brake linkage setup. If there are any questions on the tanks or installation, feel free to call me at 512-259-9232.