Guys, some advice please. I am hinging my surfaces. I have always use CA type hinges or flat pinned hinges. I have never used Robart Hinge Points. Now, mind you, I can get them all set up just fine. It is the gluing that I am worried about. I have heard that people are using Gorilla glue with good results. Would anyone care to describe your technique for using that type of glue, or on the glue type you recommend.

TIA!

If its into wood, I use 30 minute epoxy. If its into a composite structure, I use Hysol. Just lube all around the actual hinge area with Vasoline and the epoxy won't stick to it. I haven't tried Gorilla glue, but I would think you'd have to be careful that the glue didn't foam out all over the place...

Robart hinge points are da' bomb... second only to live hinging

Bob

I use 1/2 hour epoxy or hysol and load it into a 10ml syringe with a blunt ended needle on the end (drawing up needle). I put the syringe tip into the deepest point in the socket and start squirting the glue into the socket while withdrawing the needle slowly in a circular motion so that the glue is applied to all wals of the socket. This way I do not get any glue on the hinge axis. I only put a very thin smear of glue on the hinge shaft itself (to wet it) as a larger amount would pile up around the hinge axis during insertion and enhance the chances of binding once the glue has set.

Vaseline on the hinge axis is also a very good idea.

hope this helps!


btw, i would run some pink zap into the hinge socket prior to glueing...this hardens the wood and seems to tighten the fit of the hinge a little because any little wood burs an no longer easily flex.

I simply put the vaseline on the joint-plenty of it to be sure.

Then i use 30 minute epoxy into the hole, then insert the hinge. I use just enough epoxy until its just spilling out.

seems to have worked fine so far.

I have found that if the epoxy does dpill out excessively, its better to let it set in a dollop, rather than try to clean it all up and spread it around before it sets.

Ditto the Vaseline or oil to lube the hinge. The following is for installations in a built-up structure or a traditional foam wing with balsa strip at the hinges: I use long curing epoxy and a syringe. I drill the holes almost too small for the size Robart hinges. With the barbs on the hinges, you almost don't even need to glue them in if the hole is tight enough and the balsa is hard enough. I get a ton of epoxy in each hole, then push in the hinge. The key here is that you want to then orient the part such that the epoxy oozes down and forms a washer around the portion of the hinge point that protrudes out of the internal surface of the balsa strip. In other words, if this is the stabilizer portion of the elevator hinges, stand the airframe on its tail (nose-up) for over-night cure. That epoxy washer locks it in so that a 200 mph Earth impact is the ONLY way that thing will EVER separate from that balsa, EVER!

Here is a link to a RCU How-To video using Robart hinge points and Gorilla Glue.

http://videoserver.rcuniverse.com/rc...torobarthp.wmv

BC

A trick with the Vasalene is to put some in a mixing cup, melt it with your hear gun then fold the hinge all the way back and just dip the pin portion into the melted Vasalene. This gives full coverage of the moving parts with great control over where the Vasalene goes. As Wok said, you really dont need very much epoxy at all if the hole is tight. Scott

BlackCloud,
Glad you found that vid. Iwas looking for it. That's the method I use.

The video was just what I needed. Seems simple enough, just don't want any trouble.

I like to scuff up the hinge with sand paper to take the smoothness off the plastic finish.

V..

I drill my hole to the recommended size for the hinge point and oil the hinge joint. I have used 30 min. epoxy and most recently Pacer Hinge Glue. The Pacer glue has proven to work very well.

Gorilla glue is great in certain applications, as it foams and fills/sticks to anything. But even w/ much experience it's still a crapshoot as to how much to use, how much it will foam..and where it goes. Use epoxy..it's more than enough to do the job as described earlier...and w/o the problems of having to wipe foam/get yer surfaces stuck together, etc.

Ray

Yea, I was thinking the same thing after I watched the video. I'm with Ray, stick to epoxy - its much lower maintenance during the cure phase and has never failed me yet.

Bob

And as long as you have the correct geometry to create that epoxy washer around the Robart hinge, it AIN'T coming out without the entire hinge surface comming with it!

I also think its a good idea to do one surface and let it dry before mating to the other. This way all of the hinges are fixed at the exact same depth and pivot points. Then you can attach the movable surface without disturbing the hinge points, takes a little longer but i have been stung doing it all in one step and ended up with a binding surface.

V..