Av8r
#6
Roy
Awesome pics and congratulations! I know you have given this whole turbine thing a lot of thought. The complete package is sure to be very successful! I am betting on it....as I will have a similar combo ( AV8R + PST J600 ) to fly with you at upcoming events in the Pacific NorthWest!
See you soon
Awesome pics and congratulations! I know you have given this whole turbine thing a lot of thought. The complete package is sure to be very successful! I am betting on it....as I will have a similar combo ( AV8R + PST J600 ) to fly with you at upcoming events in the Pacific NorthWest!
See you soon
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 726
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Bangkok, THAILAND
Nice lookin' Aviator. I must get one of this little bird soon. It seems to be very popular in the USA. I have a Five Jet plus a Serpent coming from Iain Nicol of IAD Model Design. This one should be nice.
B777
#9
Thread Starter

Thanks, Dean, B777, Charlie. Weather has been cold but no rain or snow around here. Only have two local fields within a 2 hour drive and both are AMA club fields. Just waiting for the AMA approval for the J600 and then off to do the test fly.
Roy
Roy
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,718
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Southport, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi Roy, just taken delivery of and started construction of my kit here in England. Once I have the flying surface skins epoxied on I think building should progress fairly rapidly. I see from your pics you seem to have put the rudder servos at the base of the fins with a direct link to each ? Rob.
#11
Thread Starter

Rob
You are correct. I had some 30 oz servos and embedded them in the dorsal surface of the horizontal stab with a short linkage. I had some thin sheet aluminum and a small pan brake that I used to bend the servo covers. I used BVM heat shield to cover them and the dried ceramic blends right into the color scheme.
The other modification I made was an additional front hatch cover. The front area is designed for batteries and I just couldn't get my fingers into the area with the small access in the front former. I placed my ECU battery on the nose tray, my dual 1700 mAh Rx batteries on the front of the former that holds the nose gear and located the Rx on top of those batteries. All the switches are also under the front hatch cover where I also mounted my antenna.
My thinking is to keep all the radio gear (RX and batt) in the front hatch and all the turbine gear (ECU, pump, solenoids) in the main hatch. All the turbine wire and tubing runs down the right side of the fuse and all the radio gear runs down the left side. Trying to keep as much separation as possible between all the components.
Roy
You are correct. I had some 30 oz servos and embedded them in the dorsal surface of the horizontal stab with a short linkage. I had some thin sheet aluminum and a small pan brake that I used to bend the servo covers. I used BVM heat shield to cover them and the dried ceramic blends right into the color scheme.
The other modification I made was an additional front hatch cover. The front area is designed for batteries and I just couldn't get my fingers into the area with the small access in the front former. I placed my ECU battery on the nose tray, my dual 1700 mAh Rx batteries on the front of the former that holds the nose gear and located the Rx on top of those batteries. All the switches are also under the front hatch cover where I also mounted my antenna.
My thinking is to keep all the radio gear (RX and batt) in the front hatch and all the turbine gear (ECU, pump, solenoids) in the main hatch. All the turbine wire and tubing runs down the right side of the fuse and all the radio gear runs down the left side. Trying to keep as much separation as possible between all the components.
Roy
#12
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,718
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Southport, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi Roy, some good ideas in there which I would probably use on mine. I was also wondering about mixing in the ailerons with the flaps to enable the whole trailing edge to droop for even shorter t/o and landing. Pat McCurry did warn me that drooping the flaps more than around 16deg for t/o would only add more drag. I would like like to try this as I have a very local flying site which so far I have been unable to fly my jets from because the runway is just a 100' mown grass circle.....so maybe ? Cheers, Rob.
#13
Thread Starter

Rob
Reported take off distance for AV8R is 100 ft with 16 degree flaps so hopefully you won't have any tall grass or other obstacles at the end of your 100 ft circle. I am one of the more fortunate ones to have long asphalt runways at both of the fields I have access to, so I have not used flaperons. I personally would not be able to get a jet into a 100 ft circle unless it was an EDF.
Roy
Reported take off distance for AV8R is 100 ft with 16 degree flaps so hopefully you won't have any tall grass or other obstacles at the end of your 100 ft circle. I am one of the more fortunate ones to have long asphalt runways at both of the fields I have access to, so I have not used flaperons. I personally would not be able to get a jet into a 100 ft circle unless it was an EDF.
Roy
#15

My Feedback: (9)
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Tomball,
TX
A friend of mine is just finishing his av8r up and it is looking real sharp....here is a nice pic it.....he even used some of that new carbon fibre pattern from monokote... looks extremely nice.
#16
Thread Starter

Jetfreak
I like the Navy color scheme. Very nice!
There are three of us in the local area that are building AV8R's and each has his own ideas for color and modifications. It will be fun to have all three in the air at the same time. Love this hobby!
Roy
I like the Navy color scheme. Very nice!
There are three of us in the local area that are building AV8R's and each has his own ideas for color and modifications. It will be fun to have all three in the air at the same time. Love this hobby!
Roy
#17
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,718
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Southport, UNITED KINGDOM
Yes, certainly breaks up the 'non-jet' looks, tip tanks are a particularly nice touch, they add an enormous amount to the presence of a model, even on the ground. One guy who posted on here had even addded retracting maingear ! Something that is puzzling me slightly is the 2 positions of the hopper tank that are shown, one over the main 50oz Dubro and another further forward in the nose ? Out of interest what weights are the finished AV8R's coming out at with fuel ? Cheers, Rob.
#19
Thread Starter

I did not do retracts. I added a second 1700 mAh Rx batt, two rudder servos and an additional hatch and mine came out at 15 lbs dry.
I did not do a hopper tank on top of the 50 oz main but I did add the BVM UAT in the front compartment under the ECU. It also balanced right on the indicated CG with the UAT full.
Roy
I did not do a hopper tank on top of the 50 oz main but I did add the BVM UAT in the front compartment under the ECU. It also balanced right on the indicated CG with the UAT full.
Roy



