Scale "hidden" hinging tutorial
#27
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I use this Dremel freehand router for the next step. I guess you could also use a sanding block with a strip of 80 grit on it, but I have not tried that.
Now PRACTICE on some scrap balsa, and set the router depth so that the cap will fit flush in the pocket formed by the router. Now get up your nerve and route out the pocket you drew in the previous step.
Now PRACTICE on some scrap balsa, and set the router depth so that the cap will fit flush in the pocket formed by the router. Now get up your nerve and route out the pocket you drew in the previous step.
#34
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From: Oxford, MS
Matt,
Another step that you could add to really lock the hinges in is to drill a hole through the surface perpendicular to your hinge line. about 3/4 of the depth of your hinge, then fill with aeropoxy from that hole. until the aeropoxy oozes out around the hinge at the hinge line. After it dries you will have to rip a chunk out of the wing or surface for it to pull out, as it forms a Tee with the shaft of the Tee being the hinge. I have also started using the BVM CF hinges for all of my hidden hinge lines they work very well and a very strong.
Good tutorial!
DR
Another step that you could add to really lock the hinges in is to drill a hole through the surface perpendicular to your hinge line. about 3/4 of the depth of your hinge, then fill with aeropoxy from that hole. until the aeropoxy oozes out around the hinge at the hinge line. After it dries you will have to rip a chunk out of the wing or surface for it to pull out, as it forms a Tee with the shaft of the Tee being the hinge. I have also started using the BVM CF hinges for all of my hidden hinge lines they work very well and a very strong.
Good tutorial!
DR
#37
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Originally posted by sideshow
Great article. It should be archived......
Not sure how we do that.......hmmmm
Great article. It should be archived......
Not sure how we do that.......hmmmm
Seems to me that the easiest way to do this would be if we used a separate "how to" forum for this kind of info, so that there is a central core of such articles. Of course, if we did that, we would probably get the usual complaints about "I only ever want to look in just this one forum"... so that might not be well received.
Gordon
#38

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matt,
wonderful tutorial. I will be using soon. I understand how the long wire lines up all the hinges. one question I seem to miss. what sets the actual hinge depth, that is how much of the hinge hangs out of the trailing edge in post #13?
I love the idea of building the leading edge cap around the pivot point. rather than just "wallering" out the balsa.
wonderful tutorial. I will be using soon. I understand how the long wire lines up all the hinges. one question I seem to miss. what sets the actual hinge depth, that is how much of the hinge hangs out of the trailing edge in post #13?
I love the idea of building the leading edge cap around the pivot point. rather than just "wallering" out the balsa.
#39
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Originally posted by patf
one question I seem to miss. what sets the actual hinge depth, that is how much of the hinge hangs out of the trailing edge in post #13?
one question I seem to miss. what sets the actual hinge depth, that is how much of the hinge hangs out of the trailing edge in post #13?
Yeah I looked back through my photos, and I did not have one that showed the depth of the hinge. Just imagine the center of the hinge wire. It lines up precisely with the cap on the leading edge of the elevon. In other words it lies half way in the trough that you make in the leading edge of the elevon, before putting the cap on.
I love the idea of building the leading edge cap around the pivot point. rather than just "wallering" out the balsa.
#40

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Matt, this is a great tutorial, thank you for posting it, that looks like a far better method than the way I've done it in the past, what I like most is, the single hinge pin that is removable.
Once you paint your surfaces and are ready for final assembly, what do you do to keep the hinge pin from sliding side to side?
Once you paint your surfaces and are ready for final assembly, what do you do to keep the hinge pin from sliding side to side?
#41
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Originally posted by Jeremy Ferguson
Once you paint your surfaces and are ready for final assembly, what do you do to keep the hinge pin from sliding side to side?
Once you paint your surfaces and are ready for final assembly, what do you do to keep the hinge pin from sliding side to side?
On my old fast Bandit, the elevator pins came in from the tip of the stab, as the elevator torque rod was in the way (very much like how BVM does the Super Bandit now).
Those had nothing holding them in but friction, they never came close to moving in almost 500 flights.





