RAM 750 Question
#1
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From: Australia
Hi All.
Just a quick question. I may have an oppurtunity to buy a Ram 750 at a very reasonable price that has never been started. However the person does not know how old it is as it is from a deceased estate( the family claims it has never been started). From the pics I have seen it would appear it has not been started and I dont have any reason to not beleive this person. My question though is would there be any negative effects from storing a turbine for possibly many years without use?? This would be a first turbine for me and am happy with the fact that it is old and an airstart etc.
Any info appreciated
Just a quick question. I may have an oppurtunity to buy a Ram 750 at a very reasonable price that has never been started. However the person does not know how old it is as it is from a deceased estate( the family claims it has never been started). From the pics I have seen it would appear it has not been started and I dont have any reason to not beleive this person. My question though is would there be any negative effects from storing a turbine for possibly many years without use?? This would be a first turbine for me and am happy with the fact that it is old and an airstart etc.
Any info appreciated
#2
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From: Australia
Guys it doesnt have to pertain to Ram 750. Just want to know if there is anything I should look for on a turbine that may not have been started for years? Walk away or no worries?
#3

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Matty,
I have a RAM750 and I have always loved it. When I bought it (about 10 years ago) it was one of the best engines available and mine always performed superbly and powered my classic Bandit to over 250mph (on radar). I had the "F" mod done to eliminate the need for the oil tank. I never had a single problem with the engine (that wasn't operator error).
As for your storage concerns, I got out of the hobby for six years and had (dumbly) left the engine in my (unheated) garage wrapped in a cloth. When I got back into the hobby this year, the first thing I did was send it to Carlos at RTI for a checkout. He said the turbine was in excellent condition. The only problem was with the Sermos connectors that were used to connect the ECU, battery, and pump. The plastic degrades over time and needed to be replaced so I had him install new Deans connectors.
If you want to buy the engine, I would recommend you making arrangements with the seller that the sale should be conditional on the engine being inspected & test run by Carlos.
These days, we are all a bit spoiled by the autostart electric motors, kero start options, etc. Dragging around a scuba bottle is a bit of a pain, but I never minded. If you want to get rid of the bottle, you can retrofit a joejet (or is that jetjoe) starter and just drag around a 2 cell lipo and switch (much smaller/lighter).
Since this is your first turbine, you might want to consider something newer such that you can get full manufacturer support. If the deal is too good to pass up, then go for it but realize that you will be doing without the support from an manufacturer and the warranty. Personally, if Carlos said the turbine was OK, I'd likely get it myself if the price was right.
Regards,
Jim
I have a RAM750 and I have always loved it. When I bought it (about 10 years ago) it was one of the best engines available and mine always performed superbly and powered my classic Bandit to over 250mph (on radar). I had the "F" mod done to eliminate the need for the oil tank. I never had a single problem with the engine (that wasn't operator error).
As for your storage concerns, I got out of the hobby for six years and had (dumbly) left the engine in my (unheated) garage wrapped in a cloth. When I got back into the hobby this year, the first thing I did was send it to Carlos at RTI for a checkout. He said the turbine was in excellent condition. The only problem was with the Sermos connectors that were used to connect the ECU, battery, and pump. The plastic degrades over time and needed to be replaced so I had him install new Deans connectors.
If you want to buy the engine, I would recommend you making arrangements with the seller that the sale should be conditional on the engine being inspected & test run by Carlos.
These days, we are all a bit spoiled by the autostart electric motors, kero start options, etc. Dragging around a scuba bottle is a bit of a pain, but I never minded. If you want to get rid of the bottle, you can retrofit a joejet (or is that jetjoe) starter and just drag around a 2 cell lipo and switch (much smaller/lighter).
Since this is your first turbine, you might want to consider something newer such that you can get full manufacturer support. If the deal is too good to pass up, then go for it but realize that you will be doing without the support from an manufacturer and the warranty. Personally, if Carlos said the turbine was OK, I'd likely get it myself if the price was right.
Regards,
Jim
#4
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From: Australia
Thanks for the response JIm. The Price is definately too good to pass up at this point. I dont know if you or anyone else could possibly tell which model it is from these pics? Good Idea about getting it checked but sending from Australia might take a while and get a bit pricey. I am not overly concerned about warranty and such for this price. I also got a pic of the compressor wheel front on and it really does look like its never been started. All very tidy.
#5

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Matty:
If I where you I would take it right away for the price (I saw it on RCG...) the only reason you will be able to buy it is because I decided not to offer to buy it, the reason being it's on AUS, very, very far from me... the thruth is that it's a bargain, they guy will take any offer over 500 AUS dollars($408 US dollars). I have two of them at home and they will never die, one of them was not started for over 4 years, started on the first try after all that time, the lowest price I was able to get on one was $250 for a RAM750F in perfect condition.
You can validate the model number by removing the front cover and reading the serial number on the compressor cover, the last digits are the model number, if it's an "F" model, "F" would be the last character on the serial number
If I where you I would take it right away for the price (I saw it on RCG...) the only reason you will be able to buy it is because I decided not to offer to buy it, the reason being it's on AUS, very, very far from me... the thruth is that it's a bargain, they guy will take any offer over 500 AUS dollars($408 US dollars). I have two of them at home and they will never die, one of them was not started for over 4 years, started on the first try after all that time, the lowest price I was able to get on one was $250 for a RAM750F in perfect condition.
You can validate the model number by removing the front cover and reading the serial number on the compressor cover, the last digits are the model number, if it's an "F" model, "F" would be the last character on the serial number
#6
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From: Australia
LOL, I knew i shouldn have posted the pics. Gave it away. He is only starting the bidding at 500. will go for a bit more than that. I know his bottom price but its still a good price none the less.
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From: Longwood ,
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The mini "DIN" receptical in the plastic bag should be installed in the ECU. I don't see one anywhere else in the photo.
It is the start box connection to the ECU ...the ECU won't work without it.
The nozzle is a very early nozzle too...pre F model.
It is the start box connection to the ECU ...the ECU won't work without it.
The nozzle is a very early nozzle too...pre F model.
#9

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I had two air start Ram 750F's and they were built proof! Other than having to deal with the air tank for starting they were and are great engines, the guys who bought mine are still flying them. I only sold them once the shop where I worked became a Jetcat dealer after Ram went out of business.
#13
Ron Stahl is right. I am the proud owner of one of those he had and it has been and still is a great engine. By the way, thanks again Ron! See you at Fentress next year.
Mike
Mike
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From: Australia
ok guys, I took the cover off and there is no F at the end of the serial number so am guessing its not the F but the P version ( although there is no P at the end either. It is hand engraved also ). I received the manuals for the F version and it appears to all look the same as the Fuel and what i gather was the oil line are T'd together as it says to do in the F instructions. So what will be the difference if i hook up the propane fuel and air as it states in the F model instructions??
cheers for all yor help so far.
cheers for all yor help so far.
#18

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From: Longwood ,
FL
I still pose the question to you I asked you on 9-8.....i
Is there a "mini DIN" connector (like the one in the plastic bag in your photos) attached to the ECU? It should exit the ECU in the same place as the other wiring does.
That connector is where the mini DIN male connector on the start box attaches for startup. (The gray colored round cable) The engine will not start without that connector installed in the ECU.
Do you have a manual for the engine?
Andy Lo of Electrodynamics made your ECU and might install the plug for you.
Is there a "mini DIN" connector (like the one in the plastic bag in your photos) attached to the ECU? It should exit the ECU in the same place as the other wiring does.
That connector is where the mini DIN male connector on the start box attaches for startup. (The gray colored round cable) The engine will not start without that connector installed in the ECU.
Do you have a manual for the engine?
Andy Lo of Electrodynamics made your ECU and might install the plug for you.
#19

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The serial numbers were all hand engraved. I have a 750F and the tail cone is different...a bit shorter and not as tapered. Hook up should be the same if you are sure there is not
a seperate oil tank to provide lubrication. I'm not sure at what point RAM switched to fuel/oil lubrication. Great engines though, the sound of an air start turbine is not to be missed!
I will mention one other thing about these engines. Once the engine has ramped up and is running you will usually see some white smoke at the GSU. This is normal as the engine
expels propane and unburnt fuel back through the gas line. The first time I started mine, I freaked out and thought the whole thing was going to blow!
a seperate oil tank to provide lubrication. I'm not sure at what point RAM switched to fuel/oil lubrication. Great engines though, the sound of an air start turbine is not to be missed!
I will mention one other thing about these engines. Once the engine has ramped up and is running you will usually see some white smoke at the GSU. This is normal as the engine
expels propane and unburnt fuel back through the gas line. The first time I started mine, I freaked out and thought the whole thing was going to blow!

#20

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From: Longwood ,
FL
RAM switched from a seperate oil tank to the fuel/oil mix in mid-1999 with the introduction of the "F" engine.
By "Superman" in 1999, the "F" engine were on the street in large numbers.
Rei and Albert (owners of RAM) supplied fuel to all of their customers at the Superman meet.
My first RAM was an early oil tank engine, from the first production run...S/N 0043. The early engines like mine had a black engine casing.
As I recall, the "F" engines introduced the gray colored casing, and that color continued until the end of RAM production.
By "Superman" in 1999, the "F" engine were on the street in large numbers.
Rei and Albert (owners of RAM) supplied fuel to all of their customers at the Superman meet.
My first RAM was an early oil tank engine, from the first production run...S/N 0043. The early engines like mine had a black engine casing.
As I recall, the "F" engines introduced the gray colored casing, and that color continued until the end of RAM production.
#21
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From: Australia
Thanks guys,
Harley - yes there is a mini DIN connector coming out of the ECU and the start box so that should all be fine. Everything seems to be in order. I will email RTI and ee if they can identifyit from th serial number.
Thanks for all the answers, I think there will be mor though :-)
Harley - yes there is a mini DIN connector coming out of the ECU and the start box so that should all be fine. Everything seems to be in order. I will email RTI and ee if they can identifyit from th serial number.
Thanks for all the answers, I think there will be mor though :-)
#22
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OK guys next question/problem
From my understanding from the manuals once I have everything set up correctly and my throttle settings programmed all i need to do is hook up the batts turn on the TX. Start pumping the air and propane then hit the Ignite button to ignite the glowplug. Once up totemp the ecu should start the fuel pump and then I turn off the gas and air. My problem though is that I start the air and the propane but as soon as i hit the ignite button it starts the fuel pump and not the glow plug. If I start the air and gas it lights easily when i hold a lit flame at the rear but this isnt using the ecu. I am sure it must be something simple i am missing. all the electrics are hooked up as per the instructions. Any thoughts??
From my understanding from the manuals once I have everything set up correctly and my throttle settings programmed all i need to do is hook up the batts turn on the TX. Start pumping the air and propane then hit the Ignite button to ignite the glowplug. Once up totemp the ecu should start the fuel pump and then I turn off the gas and air. My problem though is that I start the air and the propane but as soon as i hit the ignite button it starts the fuel pump and not the glow plug. If I start the air and gas it lights easily when i hold a lit flame at the rear but this isnt using the ecu. I am sure it must be something simple i am missing. all the electrics are hooked up as per the instructions. Any thoughts??
#24

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Could your pump be connected to the glow plug connector?
Hold it! before you do anything, can you post pictures of your glow and pump connections to the ECU?? the actual terminals is what I mean so that I can see which of the ecu terminals you are using for each of them(pump/glow plug).....
Hold it! before you do anything, can you post pictures of your glow and pump connections to the ECU?? the actual terminals is what I mean so that I can see which of the ecu terminals you are using for each of them(pump/glow plug).....
#25
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From: Australia
nah the glow plug leads from the ECU are definately connectedas per the instructions. Maybe they are wrong. will double check it. Even if the plug was bad the pump still shuldnt be starting as soon as I depress the start button. It would seem logical that the pump is connected to the glow leads. will swap them over on the weekend and see if the pump starts after she has ramped up. I guess it cant do any harm? I will get a new plug also. Does anyone know which glow plugs are best??
Thanks guys
Thanks guys


