Any Tips and tricks to glueing in Robart style hinges without glueing them so they don't function?

I've used Robart hinge points (#307 or #308) in all my jets for years. The success to using Robart hinge points is to plot the hole accurately and have neat 1/8" holes. For center point hinging, also be sure to set the depth of the hinge so it reflects the diagram shown on the package.

The hinges are easy to install and rock solid if you do the following: 1) put oil on the hinge surface itself, 2) glue in using Titebond white glue, and 3) glue them first into the moving surface. After you put the hinge into the hole in the moving surface, remove any excess glue with hot water and a paint brush; damp away any excess liquid with a paper towel. Once the glue has dried, use the same process to glue the hinge into the fixed surface. When gluing into the fixed surface, allow the glue to dry for about 1 hour, come back and move the surface a little bit to make sure it is free. Then allow to dry overnite or in the sun for 4-5 hours.

I just completed the hinge installation last nite on my turbine powered Fury.

Hope this helps.
Larry Wolfe
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Alphetic resin works great and you can clean up the hinges with water. Other option is to grease the hinge and use epoxy or my new favorite, aeropoxy to glue them in then clean up any over-fill with denatured alcohol. It is best to do one side at a time!

you can use a continuous wire for the hinge, then install one side a time, easy to make sure no glue got in it

I always add a little vaseline to the hinge itself and that keeps the glue out, and the hinge hinging! I too use aeropoxy, it ain't coming out, and the aeropoxy gives you time to work with it.

David Reid

I uses one of those precision oilers with the needle point on it. Bought it at radio shack. I oil the hinge precisely and completely. Then I secure the hinge with aeropxy. Aeropoxy works well because it will not drip off of where you place it. Epoxy tends to flow back out of the hole. Hope this helps