Not to wish to stir up the argument about sound but even with the turbines that I am fitting it won't sound anything like the turbofans on the real aircraft. Everyone has their own preferences for their own reasons.

I have just received my decals from Tailormade decals. They are very comprehensive and awesome quality. Now I just have to work out where they all go

Hopefully I'll get some more work done on it this weekend.

That is awesome, does he have this file available and redy to sale? If so he can defintely count on selling another set.

And if Tam's 6 cell system will fit in the A-10 and ly it with authority, I am think this will defintely be the way to go. The RamTec fans look the part, but I am worried about the weight. Besides it would be more economical to use two 6 cell packs instead of 4-5S packs, thats for sure.
This thread is turning into a very informative thread. I may learn something yet...LOL

Dont forget charging is better with less batteries also

Slick,

What did those cost you?

Hey sic
I have some decals i could have given you. These look nice. I hope they gave you the right scale. I ordered some from aeroloft and some were scale and some seemed to be for a mibo sized A10 (Dry transfers). Are these dry transfers ,maybe waterslide?

I use to build small UAV's. Some electric some turbine. Before i left they were working on a hybrid gas/electric. There was a generator on board that would charge the electric side when the engine was running and when the engine ran out, it turned into electric. If i remember right, they were getting close to an hour off their electric UAV's. I guess that goes to show you the technology is out there, but these were built for Lockheed.

chris

Whaaalaaa. Finished the gear door detail molds today and made some parts. They came out excellent. I also reconfigured the piece that goes between the engine nacelles. I believe this is a vent on the real A10. I use to lay these up but with all the parts i have to make, i decided to vacuum them. These are going to you Mike, when i ship your A10 out friday. Dont worry sic, i will get you some to. You still have a shist load of parts coming. If you show me some progress on that A10 of yours, i would get some more motivation LOL.

chris

Blisters that go where the wing begins dehydral and the ladder door insert.

All of you that have recieved kits from john and lowell will recieve all these extra parts. I have six kits left that i will include all the detail, including the pylons when they get finished. Unfortunately, the cost of casting resins and plastic sheets as well as time, start to get expensive with all the detail on this plane. I will include a basic detail package with every kit thereafter. But those of you who like more detail, there will be a price to pay. I have not figured it all out yet but the price will be in the $150 range for all the other extras. Sorry.

chris

Here are the slats , stand offs and the strakes that goes on the end of the slat on the inner wing portion of the A10. The slats have an old mount setup that i did not like so these can be ground off and you can cut a slot for the standoffs in there place. You will also need to cut some small slots in the wing for these. The standoffs have tabs on both sides for joining the pieces together. In the picture i have marked the larger tab which goes into the slot that you cut into the slat. The smaller tabs goes into the wing. The strake will sit on this flat part of the leading edge and up against where the wing starts to look like a actual wing leading edge. CA the strake to the wing and slat. With the standoffs and strakes glued in place it locks it all in.

Oh and the slats will need to be lined up and trimmed flush (belt sanded is easiest) with wing root before gluing all this in place.


chris

Pave penny laser tracker.

I attached the pod to the mount by drilling holes and using some small all thread and glued them in place. As for the lense, you can trim the flange off (more than in the pic) and take a fine point permanent marker and run it around it while spinning it to get a straight line. Use some sharp scissors and cut it at the line and sand it flat if needed. The lense is a little to long so dont cut it at the flange. You may have a problem with it obstructing the gear door in the down position. You should glue all this to the fuse after you figure out the clearance for the gear door.

The last picture shows the aprox. location. There is a panel line that it almost butts up against.


chris

Ok, jumping to the servos.

Place the servo where you want it. Put the ply retainers in place and mark them. Move the servo and glue the retainers in place. You can then use the strap as a jig to mark where you need the holes to be drilled. I drilled straight through the ply retainer and through the cover to accept a 4-40 bolt and locknut.

Last pics are aileron and flap covers.

Some good ply hardpoints will need to be added behind the flanges on the wings for mounting the covers.


chris

Not to bring up the fan issue again, but i have to. I just finished watching Tams f-18 video and found another video of the actual A10 demo. Open both links up in separate windows and compare the sounds. At certain points in the videos they are both running at the same high frequency. The A10 does have a high pitch whine but also a second sound that sounds like turbine. Maybe you should use a fan in one pod and turbine in the other and sync them LOL! I am definately about scale appearance and sound, but can you get both? There is also a link to th dynemax. They both sound close, but more so Tams and i think it is because he is running a twin setup.

I also posted one of this A10 running on the turbax.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ADRuViwohw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bx4f7AZsiGs&feature=fvw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqH3Q...eature=related

http://video.google.com/videosearch?...+warthog&emb=0

chris

Try the Stumax - It'll blow you away! As well as the new Schubi!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ex8N0...layer_embedded

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QgW1LRio0iU

As a inpartial observer, IMO none of them sound like the A10, the whistle is there, but the turbine roar is missing, also IMO the Shrubi is the closest, very close in fact, but is slightly off the sound of the real A10, if you guys are looking for turbine sound and have to go electric the Shrubi is the one to go for.

Mike

The Tailormade decals are available now. Mine are at 1:9.5 scale which I hope is correct and they certainly look the part.

Cost was 44 Euros plus a few Euros postage.

The Schubeler is just awsome .. I have had three of them and still run one in my Tam Jets A-4.. the older version with four blades DS-94 hdt

The new DS-94 HST is a 128mm fan... same size as the Dyn-e-max... the problem is for now the motor is desinged to run on 14s
So you would need two 14s setups, He is working on a 12s version but it's not out yet.. also it's $1500 bucks a fan with motor, esc, and fan...

but it's a very nice fan Danielle Schubeler makes some of the finest fans in the word.. but they do come with a price tag
I do want to try a 12s verison in my A-4 when they come out... maybe even the 14s

here is a link : http://www.schuebeler-jets.de/
It can be bought through Altecare in October..link: http://www.altecare.com/hstpropulsionsystems.htm


so many options out there it's great

Ron

I've just started my favourite job and started cutting holes in a fuselage that I have waited quite a while for and has travelled half way around the world[X(]

So far I have opened up four of the holes for the detail parts and cut out the noseleg door. Everything was pretty straightforward. I don't know if it was intentional (I'm sure it was) but the nosedoor area is inset from the skin of the fuselage. This produces a solid edge that you can run a blade along and it makes it much easier to cut the door out.

Chris,

Whilst cutting out the nose door I have started wondering about the gun. Is that a separate moulding or have you fabricated it out of dowel or tube or something?

Also, have you reinforced the fuselage where the wings attach? I am thinking of adding some 1/8 ply doublers to the wing mounting area (inside the fuselage) to give the fuselage a bit of extra support.

Did you get my PM about the gear and wheels?

Hey sic
You should leave part of the nosegear flange on. Hopefully you have not cut it yet but if you have then you can put some bumpers in its place.

I am in a hurry to leave right now but i will get back on here and start posting in a few hours.

thanks
chris

Sic
About a 1/16" to 1/8" of that inset should have remained around the perimeter of the inset ,so your gear doors would have had a flange to sit against. Like i siad, if you had already cut it out, you can put some bumpers in its place.


chris

Sic

I have 2 different sizes of phenolic tubes, 3/16" brass tubing, and some end caps that i machine for the 3/16" barrels to slide through. The larger of the 2 tubes will need to be trimmed to fit the fuselodge and go back into the scoop. If you want to get real picky, the end of this shroud has a slight bevel to it. The small tube will need to be cut to size and the end caps glued on to each end as well as the venting holes drilled out around the barrels. You can then slide your 3/16" brass barrels through the end cap holes and glue them into place.Make sure you cut the smaller of the two tubes to the right length. This whole piece will not be that long because it will hit against the nose of the fuselodge when sliding it into the larger tube. There is a little amount of play between the tubes and you will need to shim it out with some thin material. I think i slid some 1/32" balsa in 4 spots to keep it all aligned. The wall thickness on the smaller tube is pretty thick and will need to be drum sanded out in order for the barrels to slide through. Unfortunately this size material does not come with a thinner wall. At least none that i have found.

chris

Some real pics for reference.

Sic
There should be an 1/8" piece already sandwhiched between the glass and carbon fiber in the wing area of the fuse. There were a couples fuselodges that i expiromented with as open mold layups but do not recall not adding this piece. Shoot me a pic and i will try and have a look see. The wingtube socket , like in the pic below, also gets glued through the fuselodge and makes this area a bit more rigid.

Did you get the 5/16" pins for the wing? The 2 outer holes will need to be drilled for these.

I cannot remember if i recieved that pm about the gear. Can you shoot me that one again?


chris

I'm not sure I fully understand about the doors. If I leave a lip on the gear door opening surely the cut out part will be too small to use as the door? It certainly wouldn't be able to sit correctly against the flange.

The wing part of the fuselage does look like your photo so hopefully I won't have to add any reinforcement. I will have a look when I drill for the wings tubes. I will have to look and see if I have a wingtube socket as I can't remember seeing it. Hopefully it is there somewhere.

Unfortunately, apart from 2 bits that I still haven't identified and the main wing tube, I have nothing else in my kit. No wings pins. No hinges (apart from the composite flap ones) and no hardware apart from the bits in the photos on the first page[&o]

I thought they were going to put a hardware pack in the kit for you. I guess not. Check to make sure you have all this and what you do not have i will try and send out asap.

The actual door skin is a separate piece. The piece you cut out can be discarded. I will need to send you these also. The door detail in the pics will go on the skin and all that should have sit on the flange that you were cutting on.

thanks
chris

Chris,

What are the parts in the first pic?

I have taken a couple of very bad pics of the fuselage wing area. Can you tell from those whether I need to add any further reinforcement here?

Ah, I think I've worked out what those pieces are. Wing fairings?

Should there be a moulding for the gun scoop in the kit?