Sterner - DH 100 VAMPIRE buildingThread
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RE: Sterner - DH 100 VAMPIRE buildingThread
Hatch stringers:
I am just cutting my spruce hatch stringers, the info says 1/4 x 1/8 but that doesn't seem to fit correctly, should the stringers be 3/8 x 1/8, and with the 3/8 dimension
fitting down into the formers?
If they are 3/8 I can see why there was a problem getting them to bend around the fuz..
Regards and best wishes for 2010 to all Vampires..
Ross
in warm Auckland , NZ
I am just cutting my spruce hatch stringers, the info says 1/4 x 1/8 but that doesn't seem to fit correctly, should the stringers be 3/8 x 1/8, and with the 3/8 dimension
fitting down into the formers?
If they are 3/8 I can see why there was a problem getting them to bend around the fuz..
Regards and best wishes for 2010 to all Vampires..
Ross
in warm Auckland , NZ
#81
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RE: Sterner - DH 100 VAMPIRE buildingThread
Hi Ross,
The stringers are arranged as shown in the attached sketch. The BOTTOM stringer is layed FLAT on it's side and then the 2) UPPER stringers that make-up the Hatch Frame are installed VERTICALLY. I used wax paper between these 2 vertical stringers to make the hatch removal very easy by preventing the glues from getting between these stringers as per the instructions.
Hope this has helped.
Best Regards,
The stringers are arranged as shown in the attached sketch. The BOTTOM stringer is layed FLAT on it's side and then the 2) UPPER stringers that make-up the Hatch Frame are installed VERTICALLY. I used wax paper between these 2 vertical stringers to make the hatch removal very easy by preventing the glues from getting between these stringers as per the instructions.
Hope this has helped.
Best Regards,
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RE: Sterner - DH 100 VAMPIRE buildingThread
i'm looking for a set of retracts/oleos at 1/5 scale...........what's everyone else doing as sierra aren't making any....
cheers
dave
cheers
dave
#84
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RE: Sterner - DH 100 VAMPIRE buildingThread
Dave,
Look at page two, post #30 this thread....There you´ll find a link.
I´ve got my retracts from this company and they look fine. Hydraulic and low cost!
Pete
Look at page two, post #30 this thread....There you´ll find a link.
I´ve got my retracts from this company and they look fine. Hydraulic and low cost!
Pete
#85
My Feedback: (2)
RE: Sterner - DH 100 VAMPIRE buildingThread
Hi Dave,
The gears recomended by Pete have a max load limit of 12 Kg (26#) and meet the need. They also offer an offset trailing fork nose strut as well.
Looks to be quite suitable for the 1/5th scale. HOWEVER, for those building a 1/4 scale at 42#, these units will not be suitable.
Thanks for sharing Pete.
Brg.
The gears recomended by Pete have a max load limit of 12 Kg (26#) and meet the need. They also offer an offset trailing fork nose strut as well.
Looks to be quite suitable for the 1/5th scale. HOWEVER, for those building a 1/4 scale at 42#, these units will not be suitable.
Thanks for sharing Pete.
Brg.
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RE: Sterner - DH 100 VAMPIRE buildingThread
ORIGINAL: Vampire
Alasdair,
The 23012 is a very well known General Aviaiton airfoil and yeilds very good lift even to a few degress negavtive AOA.
You can generate this airfoil in Compufoil as I have this program as well.
Go to - GENERATE TAB from pull down menu, select - N.A.C.A Airfoils, select - 5 Digit, select 23012 and you have it. Save it as an .DXF and you can suck it into ACAD.
30 designates the Max thickness is at 30% chord and the 12 = Airfoil thickness is 12% of wing chord.
Hope this answers your question.
Best Regards,
Alasdair,
The 23012 is a very well known General Aviaiton airfoil and yeilds very good lift even to a few degress negavtive AOA.
You can generate this airfoil in Compufoil as I have this program as well.
Go to - GENERATE TAB from pull down menu, select - N.A.C.A Airfoils, select - 5 Digit, select 23012 and you have it. Save it as an .DXF and you can suck it into ACAD.
30 designates the Max thickness is at 30% chord and the 12 = Airfoil thickness is 12% of wing chord.
Hope this answers your question.
Best Regards,
my name is Michele from Italy, I' m also building a 20% Vampire from your plans, I'm cutting everything by myself with a selfmade 3axis cnc machine. One question regarding airfoil, I had checked on Profili2 NACA23012, imported in autocad and compared with wing section on the drawing. it is completely different. Consider that i had also take in consideration upper and lower skins but the outlines do not matches. Which mistake I'm doing? Your help would be appreciated a lot.
regards and happy new year
p.s. my vampire will be electric
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RE: Sterner - DH 100 VAMPIRE buildingThread
ORIGINAL: Vampire
Hi Dave,
The gears recomended by Pete have a max load limit of 12 Kg (26#) and meet the need. They also offer an offset trailing fork nose strut as well.
Looks to be quite suitable for the 1/5th scale. HOWEVER, for those building a 1/4 scale at 42#, these units will not be suitable.
Thanks for sharing Pete.
Brg.
Hi Dave,
The gears recomended by Pete have a max load limit of 12 Kg (26#) and meet the need. They also offer an offset trailing fork nose strut as well.
Looks to be quite suitable for the 1/5th scale. HOWEVER, for those building a 1/4 scale at 42#, these units will not be suitable.
Thanks for sharing Pete.
Brg.
Pete
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RE: Sterner - DH 100 VAMPIRE buildingThread
Wheels and Brakes,
I am just getting to the stage of thinking about cutting the hatch, then planking the wings (on top) and turning the Vampire over.
In which case I am starting to look at the retract units.
Petera, I see you have used the UMS units, which selection did you finally decide on, and what length main units did you order,
and especially if you have used the 5inch Du Bro wheels, what have you done about brakes?.
Regards
Ross.
I am just getting to the stage of thinking about cutting the hatch, then planking the wings (on top) and turning the Vampire over.
In which case I am starting to look at the retract units.
Petera, I see you have used the UMS units, which selection did you finally decide on, and what length main units did you order,
and especially if you have used the 5inch Du Bro wheels, what have you done about brakes?.
Regards
Ross.
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RE: Sterner - DH 100 VAMPIRE buildingThread
Ross,
Due to the extreme cold we experience here at the moment, I discovered, today, that I couldn´t get into my workshop, the door binding to the frame caused by the higher daytime temperature....Hm!!! I have to wait till it gets colder again tonight....
I believe that my main gear legs are 15cm long. I´m not going for an exact scale look, so I have used the largest size wheels from Umstech .... approximately 4 inches. They come with brakes. I could choose to spend a fortune on landing gear if I wanted scale..but this whole enterprise is going to be low cost...
Regards
Pete
Due to the extreme cold we experience here at the moment, I discovered, today, that I couldn´t get into my workshop, the door binding to the frame caused by the higher daytime temperature....Hm!!! I have to wait till it gets colder again tonight....
I believe that my main gear legs are 15cm long. I´m not going for an exact scale look, so I have used the largest size wheels from Umstech .... approximately 4 inches. They come with brakes. I could choose to spend a fortune on landing gear if I wanted scale..but this whole enterprise is going to be low cost...
Regards
Pete
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RE: Sterner - DH 100 VAMPIRE buildingThread
I´m back again! After I removed a double window in the door, I could help my daughter through the hole. She opened a window, so using a step ladder I was able to enter my workshop.
First thing I did was to clean up the room.
Now I´m almost done with the fuselage. It still need some sanding...but besides from that it´s almost finished, so I´ll put it aside...while I start on the wing.
The balsa inlet lips was the last job I did on the fuse....now I only need to give them filler and sand.....
PS: Today I tried to unlock and open the door...and "SESAM" it just opened!!
First thing I did was to clean up the room.
Now I´m almost done with the fuselage. It still need some sanding...but besides from that it´s almost finished, so I´ll put it aside...while I start on the wing.
The balsa inlet lips was the last job I did on the fuse....now I only need to give them filler and sand.....
PS: Today I tried to unlock and open the door...and "SESAM" it just opened!!
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RE: Sterner - DH 100 VAMPIRE buildingThread
Hello,
Apologies for breaking into your thread, which I might add is brilliant! Looks very helpful and informative. I love the Vampire and have always thought about building one, is there a website with costs etc.. for the plans or kits? Do you know if plans are available for a 1/7th scale version? Are the plans able to be scaled down?
Again sorry for breaking into your thread..
Andrew.
South Australia.
Apologies for breaking into your thread, which I might add is brilliant! Looks very helpful and informative. I love the Vampire and have always thought about building one, is there a website with costs etc.. for the plans or kits? Do you know if plans are available for a 1/7th scale version? Are the plans able to be scaled down?
Again sorry for breaking into your thread..
Andrew.
South Australia.
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RE: Sterner - DH 100 VAMPIRE buildingThread
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RE: Sterner - DH 100 VAMPIRE buildingThread
This is a very interesting thread, and looking forward to seeing more of the build.
Are the GRP intake ducts and wing tanks Sterner Eng. parts also? If so, are they available from Belair or direct from you Kerry?
Jim
Are the GRP intake ducts and wing tanks Sterner Eng. parts also? If so, are they available from Belair or direct from you Kerry?
Jim
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RE: Sterner - DH 100 VAMPIRE buildingThread
Put the fuse aside and started on the wing panels.
Had to cut out new spruce spars, since nothing I had in stock had the right dimension. With my new circular saw it was a breeze...!
Bought a dozen of 90 degrees iron hardware which were ideal for fixating the ribs. One screw in the building surface and a clamp to keep the rib in place.
Notice the 91,5 degrees balsa jigs (photo # 2)keeping the first rib in correct angle tilted a bit towards the next rib.........Had to open up the notches a bit to secure a good fit and to avoid tension...white glue and thick cyano and let it dry over the night. So now it´s just to turn the panel over and glue the spars in place.
Had to cut out new spruce spars, since nothing I had in stock had the right dimension. With my new circular saw it was a breeze...!
Bought a dozen of 90 degrees iron hardware which were ideal for fixating the ribs. One screw in the building surface and a clamp to keep the rib in place.
Notice the 91,5 degrees balsa jigs (photo # 2)keeping the first rib in correct angle tilted a bit towards the next rib.........Had to open up the notches a bit to secure a good fit and to avoid tension...white glue and thick cyano and let it dry over the night. So now it´s just to turn the panel over and glue the spars in place.