THE RETURN OF THE VIPERJET
 

This thread previously started at:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2682729/tm.htm
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Finally it is my turn to put my Viperjet together.
I been working on him for about 3 weeks with some interruptions :eek: but that ok considering my jet buddies are cool guys [sm=thumbup.gif] and independently of who's the plane's owner, we really have good time at the Jet-Lab all afternoon after work.

I really enjoy every minute of building a jet model, and even knowing the Viperjet does not need any modification at all, I just could not resist the temptation of giving my personal touch to this babe. So is up to you to do take these ideas into consideration, or even better, to improve them [sm=thumbup.gif], welcome ;)

Speed Brakes
I decided to cut a different shape than the already marked at the fuselage.- This system use a hinge system made out of 1/8" brass tube and 4-40 rod. Is removable and very strong, also adding a good cool look to the model [8D].-
Instead of a servo, I'll be using 2 air cylinder and a jetronic double action valve [8D]
A template is available and i'll posted here if someone request it.
The installation is not ready yet, so later on will complete the details adding more photos.-

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THE SMOKE SYSTEM (SSS)
As I had mention before, I made my own system with a Pepsi pep bottle and a B&B valve drive by a HS-81 mini servo, all this installed on one of the turbine base mount which I made removable for a good reason (details later).
The round brass plate + the cap is glue to the bottle with hysol....bullet proof.
The panel with the valves + filling air valve is where the smoke system is controlled. Both valve's exits will exit outside at the bottom of the fuselage so no mess is possible inside the plane. Both valve are open to fill the system with the smoke liquid. Then are close to apply 80 psi of air pressure through the air filling valve.
The !QUOT!tank!QUOT!is mounted on top of the front wing former in a base as per the picture.-
Some details bellow, will add more later on.

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A cool touch [8D]...details later on:)

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All these picture were taken last night right before leaving home....and the camera run our of batteries [:o] due all the weeks it has sitting there just waiting for me.....I'll complete the shots today :eek:

In the mean time, here are a some small additional details:

NOSE GEAR DOOR
It has a light reflective housing for a ultra bright LED....I'm putting landing lights along with strobe light system [8D]....you'll see.
Also as my previous Viper, the nose gear door will have 2 connecting rods that will swing the door open and close with the gear. I'll post this detail later on....sorry.

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As always Miguel, FIRST CLASS STUFF! Keep it coming ;)

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Excellent work Miguel. Keep the pictures coming.

Dave

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Todd, with you building and posting around I need to try been at your level [sm=thumbup.gif]
I hope to bring this Viper to FJ next year and let an axcellent pilot like Dave to do his thing with it...[sm=wink.gif]...I mean flying :D

An important modification made is that I move the turbine about 2" to the front, cutting about the same lengt out of the bypass mounth, with the idea of reducing as much weight possible from the tail with the hope to at least save one of the two RX battert pack out of the plane.....lets see if I'm lucky.

More pictures up to come tomorow [&:]

BTW, I'm going to paint it...and so far I'll reproduce its original scheme but with urethane paint ;)....unless I found a new scheme as elegant as the original. Any ideas?

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Beautiful modeling. Thanks for taking the time to make the pictures.


What are you using for an LED?

Thanks

Matt

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Thanks you Matt ;)

There is a new type of led available with 1 watt of power :);)[&:], at All Electronics.

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...110&type=store

A good friend of mine and an EXCELLENT electronic-man and modeler ( TOP TOP [sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif]) is helping me out with the circuit board to control the system ( http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...021&type=store ), is a flashing kit that need some modifications changing some parts as per the new led requirements....[&:], not my area of work.
For the nose gear door, cos of the shape, I'll be using one the ultra-bright T 1 3/4 led ( http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...-75&type=store )

This time I'll be using a RAM electronic switch for on-off On-Off by remote control(http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDZ89&P=0)

In total 3 landing lights: 2 at the wing tips, and 1 at the nose, all activated by a micro swith when the gear is dropped.
In total 3 flashing (instead of strobing) lights: green/starboard , red/port, red at the tip of the vertical fin ( or is it white?).


Stay around ;)

Miguel

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I had good time last night completing the nose gear door set up.;)
I made a brass base that is attached to the retract's trunium....and connected with 2 ball linked rods to the door, as per the picture. Works great :)

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and at the end, nothing like looking the results...

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Veeeery promising BTW :)[8D]

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Very nice Miguel!

How is the brass base attached to the trunion? I also see you have pivot blocks screwed to the fuse (for the nose door), are they just wood blocks or aluminum?

Keep up the great work and great ideas along with pics.

Your going to make me get another if you keep it up :D

George

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Also added the horns to the speed brakes.
Is a 4-40 flat head 1 1/2" screw. This way allow me to adjust and match both speed brakes travels...very simple set up ;)

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Hi George, glad you like it.
This Viper is WAY lot better than previous version....go for it [8D]
The brass base was rescued from my old Viper, were I was using Spring Air if you remember.
It is hold in place with the same screw at he trunium that is holding the centering wire.
For the Spring Air ( which I think you have) I drilled and tapped two 2-56 holes at the trunium front face.....careful should be taken...you don't want to damage the housing for the strut....;)

Forgot something....the door base are made our of hardwood. I drilled and inserted an small piece of 1/8" brass tube to for the pivoting of the 4-40 rod-axle. Is glued and screw in place. Not removable. Later on will show you how the door is removable.

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For mounting the nose gear retracts....I drilled oversize holes to the wood gear base, then using a 3mm carbon fiber plate with 6-32 size holes, glued with hysol in place at the bottom getting the proper gear alignment. Instead of blind nuts.....I made 2 aluminum plates tapped for 6-32 screws.

In my previous Viper I had a pretty bad landing once [&o] and broke the gear mount. Taking that mount out was almost impossible....[:o] I tried to make something like the flex plate BVM use, but there is not much room in the nose for an adequate work with some tooling.... I guess I'll learn to land :D

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Something simple, but part of the job....:eek:

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I decided to mount the air switch for the door in a place out of the middle....
I think is practical....the trigger is activated once the strut hit the cable....;), not big deal.
In the opposive side of the switch is located a quick link to adjust the cable tension....

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For the tail cone.....I cut the simulation out....and then insert a former to compensate the strength taken.
This issue is not finish yet, need some cosmetics work :)

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and some complementary pictures of the smoke system....

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Nice work Miguel! I should post a pic of my Viperjet. I let Dave him fix an air leak and now when you take of the cockpit it looks like a birds nest in there.


You putting on gear doors on the mains? Any other lights or strobes besides on the nose?
I just built my new wings and put in Tams Viperjet retracts with the new wheels... Soooo Stout!

Keep posting more pics!

Jimmy

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As said before, I moved the turbine 2 inches forward trying to reduce tail weight....also cut about same length of the bypass mouth.
By doing all that and with the addition of the tail cone, I was short by 3 inches with the tail pipe.
My supporting friend Tam made me an tailpipe extension ;)

As a consequence of moving the turbine so far front....I had to made a small mods to the turbine bracket in order to archive the more displacement possible....not big deal...but forgot to picture it [&o]

Anyway, this is also the reason for making my turbine base mount removable, due I was not able to insert the tanks...;)

The exact lenght cutted out of the bypass was 1.5", and to be able to insert or dismount the turbine w/o having to remove the bypass/tailpipe, you'll have to make a notch at the front lip of the hatch OR instead of 1.5" just cut 1" .

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Hey Jimmy,
Yeah, Dave is an excellent pilot.- ;)
Gear doors only at the nose....so far....I don't have vacuum molding yet...[&o]....Anyway I'll keep my option open.
Good to hear from you.-

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Love that nose door. I tried something similar with my dead BVM F-4, and my friend Rob got a lot of exercise running out to the runway to pick up the nose of my plane so I could taxi back in. I used a cable instead of a link like you did, I did not think to connect a rigid link to the non rotating part of the trunion. The air loads caused an interference on the gear every time, very hard to troubleshoot on the ground.

Very nice idea on the hinging. Do the wheel collars release the door? I like to have everything come apart for painting and maintenance. I do something similar with Yellow hinges. I spent weeks trying to figure that out. I will definitely copy your set up and give you no credit!!

Very very nice work, threads like this are the best on RCU IMHO.

Matt

PS you are not using the Luxeon on the nose door are you??

PPS Funny how helpful that unprofessional pr*ck Tam is......Hi Tam!!!

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Miguel, your work on this ViperJet is impecable......its nice to know your good at something other then posting incriminating photo's of me.:)
Keep up the good work, I look forward to seeing more pictures.
Take care bud,
Dave