ok, you need a new glo plug, if no matter what you are doing it dies right after removing the ignitor, then just put in a new glo plug. the one that came with my SS died out on me 1/4 way through my 1st idle tank.

go ahead and put the truck on the ground, the wheels can touch, that's how you should do it.
adjust your throttle trim up as much as you can at 1st till you see the truck inch forward. then ease it back just till it idles. as the tank runs through you can back off the idle more as needed.

the second tank you might even have the trim back to the middle.


as far as the shaving go, i doubt this is what they are but they almost look like the plastic sheet that covers the body to keep paint off. i doubt you forgot to peel that off so i am honestly pretty stumped on that .

i just finished tank 2 on my SS tonight and this version of the 25 is harder then the force 25 or 26 to get kicked in on that 1st tank, but after you finish it seems to be starting much better now.

I tested the glow plug by holding it in the igniter with pliers, and it lit up just fine. Can a glow plug be bad and still light up? If so, I'll go get some new glow plugs tomorrow.

yes, why not try another and save the one that came in it if you feel it might work, i assume you did buy a few?

what fuel are you using?

Yes, I bought 3 O.S. A-3 glow plugs.

I'm using HPI 20% nitro fuel....I bought a gallon of it at my LHS

Update: I put a brand new A-3 glow plug in about 30 min. ago and she fired right up!! I set it on my styrofoam makeshift stand and proceded to do the very first 1 tank idle. I had the tires spinning some, and it ran right till the end of the tank. I have one question, though. About halfway through the tank, I could hear the rpm of the engine getting a tiny bit higher. Right when the gas was about to run out, the engine rpm jumped drastically. It was almost as if I floored it, but I had done nothing. My receiver and radio were both on, because I had trimmed the throttle to back it off a bit. Why the sudden burst in throttle out of nowhere?? It was so much throttle that I got ancy and pinched the fuel line to shut off the engine (right at the end of the tank). The batteries in my receiver and radio are good, and my radio was reading 11.6v.

They all do that, right before the tank emptys, the engine runs very lean for a few seconds. Its normal, sounds like your on your way

Great!! I was hoping it was normal.

The revving when you were halfway through the tank was probably small bubbles in the fuel line.

If you think about it, running lean gives you higher RPMs. You run a car leaner by having more air and less fuel in there.

If you have bubbles in the fuel line, or if you're on the last few drops of fuel, then you have more air getting through

Yeah i got my SS on aug 30th and finally everything is running great. I had some much trouble getting the engine to start that i got the roto start. Also man did it take me a while to get the idle and low end set correctly. But man is it worth it. I brought my SS to work to show my friends. Man were they impressed. This sunday im taking my SS to lake perris to play around with.

The end of tank issue has been explained; I never let my run-in tanks go completely dry.

The middle of the tank issue; well, you've just demonstrated the stock tank leaning issue on Savage tanks. Some folks think that this is due to the location of the fuel pick-up. I, however, subscribe to the belief that it's a tank elevation issue.

At the start of this thread, you mentioned the flooding issue. This was due to the fuel level being above the carb. On the standard SS set-up, the carb is even with the middle of the tank. So, as the fuel level drops below the level of the carb, the fuel pressure level at the carb decreases. This produces a leaner mixture. It shouldn't be a big issue as long as you're tuned rich to start with. If you race tune with a full tank, you run the risk of over-leaning when the tank reaches half-full. This could create excessive temps.

This is a well-known issue in Savage circles, although the cause is debated. There are solutions to the issue which include swapping in a different tank or adding a second, intermediate tank. Go to savage-central.com and do a search on "dual tank mod".

I'm in the midst of deciding what I want to do on my Savage. In the meantime, I'm just keeping it rich!

Maybe someone can help me out with a picture or a description here.....I'm trying to set up my throttle linkage so that when the throttle servo arm is at a 90 degree angle (perpendicular to the servo), the engine idles. Can anyone tell me how much the slide carb should be opened for the engine to idle? I thought I had it set pretty good, but with the servo arm at 90 degrees, the engine revved pretty high. So, I need to extend my linkage to close the slide carb more, but I don't know how much to close it.

On the SS, you should have the servo arm/saver, and another 90 degree horn on the side brace near the engine. the only adjustable piece is the ball link from the 90 degree horn to the carb.

The idle on the motor is set at the factory. Mine was fine, and yours is likely OK as well. I'm guessing that you have the 18T gear on the motor, becasue with that set-up the motor is further away from the 90 degree horn than the instructions assumed (15T is a bit closer). So, when you set the length of the ball link per the instructions, a 90 degree servo position is not idle. If you set the trim for a decent idle, then it's hard to get enough brake because the servo arm is already about 15 degrees past 90 degrees.

To fix this, remove the ball link piece from the carb and from the 90 degree horn. Unsrew the ball cup (lefty loosey) until you get it to a length that sets the servo arm at 90 degrees. Then set up the brake. This should work, but you have to go through the same thing again any time you change clutch bells.

I solved this whole issue by changing the entire set-up. If I figure out how to post pictures, I'll put them and some instructions on the site.

Gotcha. Everything makes sense, except that I don't know how much closed the slide carb has to be to make the engine idle (wheels dont spin at all, or very very very slowly). Should I elongate the ball link so that a 90 degree servo arm closes the slide carb all the way?? Almost all the way?? If not, how much open should the slide carb be?

The slide carb should be closed "all the way" - ie, if you were to put the brakes on your carb shouldn't close any more.

You use the idle screw to adjust how much air gets through when the engine is in this state, and the usual seems to be a 1mm gap when you peer down the carb (take the air filter off first!)

If you're gonna adjust the idle, open the throttle first to avoid damaging the needles.

When the slide carb is pushed all the way in by the servo, there's a little needle on the end of the idle screw, inside the throat of the carb, that keeps the carburetor open ever so slightly (about 1mm, or so). The size of the small opening can be controlled by turning the idle screw, on the outside of the carb, in and out.

The servo saver assembly on your SS keeps the slide pushed in all the way at idle with the help of that spring ring you installed between the two halves of the throttle/brake servo horn. You really want to make sure that the slide moves all the way in, and then the servo moves another 5 degrees or so to compress the spring. This gives you a "true" idle. If you rely on the servo position itself to set the idle, it's called "false" idle.

To answer your question specifically:
Lengthen the ball link so that the slide stops moving, plus a little more. Your servo saver will put pressure on the slide, which will give you a consistent idle.