Tuber project
#26
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From: Royal Oak, MI
Lynx thanks man i appreciate the kind words.
carswindnwaves its electric and stait axle truck sit higher than indepent susp. truck to begin with,plus the batt pack will be mounted in the bottom portion of the frame so the wieght is low in the chassis.
Madd_Taffy2k cool your getting a clod,the servos will be mounted right on the axle so its very simple to set up and non of the power of the servo is lost from a bunch of linkage that way. Also if your getting a clod then check this site out. www.clodtalk.com its the best clod site out there
carswindnwaves its electric and stait axle truck sit higher than indepent susp. truck to begin with,plus the batt pack will be mounted in the bottom portion of the frame so the wieght is low in the chassis.
Madd_Taffy2k cool your getting a clod,the servos will be mounted right on the axle so its very simple to set up and non of the power of the servo is lost from a bunch of linkage that way. Also if your getting a clod then check this site out. www.clodtalk.com its the best clod site out there
#27
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From: Chepachet, RI
Very Cool!!! Not sure if I'm late with this, but here's my .02. I think that an orange chassis would definately make those nice shocks stick out more. Silver wouldn't be a color of my choice, for no reason other than it would look to cheasy for me. But when in doubt, black ALWAYS works. lol. Take it for what it's worth man. Good luck. and thanks for helping me out. BTW- got any measurements on the suspension? Does it flex pretty well, or was it built for a different purpose?
#28
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From: Royal Oak, MI
Havent painted it yet still not sure what color so i am gonna wait till the weekend to do it.
I built it for mainly genreal bashing and or racing but it actualy ended up with pretty good axle articulation....i'd say about 75degrees of movment.
Let me know what measurments you would like and i'll check and give them to ya?
I built it for mainly genreal bashing and or racing but it actualy ended up with pretty good axle articulation....i'd say about 75degrees of movment.
Let me know what measurments you would like and i'll check and give them to ya?
#29
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From: Chepachet, RI
The measurement I was referring to was the articulation. I should've been more specific. 75 degrees is pretty good. I tried to solder a few pieces of brass together at work today and I impressed myself! LOL I didn't use silver solder, just normal(what I call it anyway) solder and paste. Any reason to use silver solder? Stronger? Easier to work with? Also, I heard/read somewhere(still trying to find the site again) that there's a technique that uses a torch to smooth out the solder joints. Ever hear of this? I guess if you are good enough at soldering than this makes no difference, but I've been known to have a few ugly joints. LOL
#30
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From: Royal Oak, MI
I have used both silver and rosin solder and i think they both work,i havent heard of using a torch to smooth the joints but i would imagine it might work. You can get the same effect as a torch on a ugly solder joint if you just move the solder iron on the brass about a inch from the joint and heat the brass,then the heat will cause the solder in the joint to "melt". Right at the point that the solder starts to turn to liquid pull the iron off the brass and the solder will cool in a smoother puddle.
Also.....
If you lightly sand the ends of the brass with some steel wool it will also help to get a better joint in both apperance and strength[8D]
Also.....
If you lightly sand the ends of the brass with some steel wool it will also help to get a better joint in both apperance and strength[8D]



