spacoli

I guess I'm just comparing it to my Revo I just bought and the MGT my buddy has. They both shoot off the line better.

I'm hoping it's in the clutch and carb problems I'm having.

I have not run the Revo much, busy trying to get the Warhead straightened out for my son.

Bill Plude

I'm going to make this WarHead work. I'll put whatever I need into it to keep it sturdy and competitive with my stock TMAXX. However, as soon as this comes into my RC store I'm going to have one of these too. There's always room for 1 more
http://www.hpiracing.com/kits/kitMain.php?partNo=10500

MotorPsyko

Yeah I was looking at that the other day, it's pretty cool but honestly what's the difference between the hellfire and the warhead in "race mode"? Aside from the obvious bigger engine anyway heh. hellfire looks like a wheelie beast that's about it. I'm not dogging the hellfire or anyone that wants one, to each his own but it's a tad expensive (tower price). I think the warhead offers more bang for the buck.

The hellfire is a sweet truck tho I'll give it that.

bamaman98

bill...guys...need help. Just got done putting my new clutch shoes and spur gear in. Now (not cranked just reciever on and conroller on) it seems like on the controller the knob that has reverse and forward.... is now reversed...ok let me explain..When I put it in to forward gear it seems like it moves backwards and the spur gear moves when the trigger is pulled...when I put it in reverse and pull the trigger the spur gear moves forward..does this make sense?........ok let me try again...when I put the knob on fwd and pull the trigger the spur gear doesn't move unless I roll the truck backwards...and vis versa. Is there something wrong I did? I would hate to crank it when it gets warmer and then break something again...any advise?? Thanks guys

Bill Plude

The motor only runs in one direction so theres no problem there, the spur gear only turns one way, so thats not a problem either. You also have to remember, depending where your throttle trim is set, your brake may be on.

usc2001gc

Does anyone know for sure if the Savage teflon clutch shoes will work??? I know earlier people were saying the T-Maxx shoes would work, until Bill did the side by side comparison. I'm ordering replacement shoes in the morning and would like to stick to the 2-shoe set-up for the time being. Any information and part numbers would be a great help.

Wide Open

i hope they will, but considering their used on another 1/8 scale mt of simalar weight, i would assume they would work.

Sir Chopps

I have run about 3 tanks through with my 2 shoe savage clutch and it works great!!

Chopps

WeekendRC

The spur gear will is always spinning in the same direction... It does not matter if you are in forward or reverse. Its the gears inside the tranny that reverse the truck. When you are running the truck you may notice when you change direction is still takes a small jump in the opposite direction, i.e. When you are driving forward and stop and switch to reverse, it my go forward an inch or two before it reverses and goes backward. This is a problem when you are pinched up tight against something because sometimes it will not fully engage reverse unless you get it to role slightly forward or spin the tires. (I hope this is helps, or if anyone else has some comments)

WeekendRC

Are you running the stock clutch bell? Can you post the p/n's you are using.

Wide Open

thanks chopps, at least we know itll work now. i cant wait to try mine out again with the new clutch![8D]

bamaman98

bill...guys.... got another ?.... Are you suppose to be able to roll you truck forward and reverse in both directions when in fwd gear? (Not crancked just power to the truck and controller) When I have it in fwd gear I can move it forward (with the trottle pulled) and move it in rev, but when I move it in reverse the spur gear moves...when I move in fwd the spur gear doesn't move...when I put the controller knob on rev..and pull the trottle the truck can move both ways but when I move it fwd the spur gear moves. I don't remember it doing this before I had to put the new spur gear in and clutch shoes. Remember very newbie here..

WeekendRC

Bam... you are fine. Did you ever realize that you never see a car on the road till you go out and buy one for yourself. Now you see them all the time. You are paying more attention to it now. Its working fine. Fire her up and lay some tracks...

bamaman98

Dang...I guess so...It took me over 2 hours to put the new clutch shoes and spur gear on..man for me it was a head ach...But fun..So I guess I am paying more attention to everything..Just don't wann screw anything else up. Thank for the help.

Wide Open

dont worry, it gets alot easier after the first dissasembly. i can get my entire rear end taken apart in about 10 or 15 minutes now.

rdgo3

Bill, I'm not sure what prob. Spacoli & Motor are having I tried to find the orig post.I assume they too were having there's in wot? Well I think I found my prob. my throttle linkage somehow either pull out from the black plastic piece that connects to the carb.and was holding it open when I started it (about1/4).Must of happend when I replaced the spur.I screwed it back in all the way and it seems to idle fine now..But I am interested in the orig prob. they had.Did it all of a sudden take off while driving?Or did there's do like mine start up in about 1/4 thottle? Thnxs for the help.I don't know why DT says to put Locktight on all the screws it's never together long enough to set..J/k Robert

Bill Plude

The problem they had was their idle screw had loosened up on them so they replaced it with a big dam nail! No!!! LOL They just retightened it.

spacoli

Mine wouldn't keep an idle and shut off when breaks applied. Idle screw too loose, when breaks applied, pulled it past the groove in the slide. You have to fine that idle screw point that it won't slide by the idle screw neddle.

I just thought of this.
I was using the small spring on the throttle linkage as a return spring to help close the carb, this might be some of cause of my carb trouble.

A throttle return spring and backing off the small set screw and spring on the throttle linkage would stop it from doing this. This would not allow excessivie pressure on the carb when breaks are applied. I might have that idle end point on my slide worn from doing this.

spacoli

Chopps,

did you see a big/any performance difference with the savage clutch shoes.........or is it just that Savage shoes will just last longer than the stock DT shoes?

Wide Open

spacoli, you are obcuring cars faster than anyone ive seen. i dont remember where i read it but you have an MGT now? you are one lucky dog.[sm=wink.gif][sm=tongue.gif]
anyways, about the clutch shoes, i think they will give a boost in performance and reliability. although its the reliability that really matters.

bamaman98

Got a question on the LSN. In the manual it stats factory 12 1/2 turns from fully closed with the carb open. Does this mean turn everything on and fully open the carb and 12 1/2 turns out from fully closed? If so then my LSN is visible outside the black shell. Is this correct?

lukskywalker

It means 12/5 turns when it is fully closed. Closed meaning when you close it all the way u feel a SLIGHT RESISTANCE. Dont over tighten it or else you will damage the needle tip. Hope this makes sense.

Sir Chopps

I noticed a little more grab with the new clutch. I went to a 13 tooth clutch bell because I am running 40serieas tires(1/3" taller and 3/4" wider), but they willl work with the stock bell. And even with the bigger rubber on there I can still lift the front tires off the ground but I wouldn't really call it a wheelie.

Choppy

lukskywalker

Duratrex (Warhead) Question,

Called in my order today for the front transmisson cover (my brake housing on the tranny broke off yesterday). Upon taking my tranny out, I noticed that my spur gear doesnt turn evenly.I dont know if the hole for the spur gear was drilled unevenly or a bent shaft. Is this a common thing? They are sending me a new spur gear and spur gear shaft also. The only reason is I noticed alot of plastic shavings from my spur gear and I think this is part the reason. The lady asked me next time for me to send in the whole part and then they will send me the parts back. I told her it doesnt make sense, cause I have enough parts laying around and then for me to take apart the whole tranny and then wait 3 days to get there and 3 days back. She said ok. What the best way to fill the tranny up upon putting it back togethor, do I use grease or do I use tranny fluid,or differential grease?? Also do I need a clutch wrench to take my spur gear off. If someone can answer all of these questions for me I certainly would appricate it.

ashburg

What's up guys...

Waiting on front drive shaft...had to do some experiments in the meantime...

Black flakes/spots are definately from clutch (see pic). Will they diminish with use - I think they will, but this stock clutch setup with the flimsy spring just ain't cuttin' it. It's obviously a component that DTX figured we'd upgrade on our own; they cut a corner there. Anyway, took bell off, spring fell out...

Broken spring was culprit for my creeping problem (see pic)...I thought it was the idle lol...

Put new stock clutch/spring in for the time being (until my OS .30 comes in, etc)...spring humps over flywheel pin...is this ok?

Spaccoli (or anyone)...where is this carb leak you're talking about, what's the fix for it, and how do you remove the carb? I took of that set screw that appeared to be holding the carb on, but it didn't release it...obviously a pin there, but how to get it out?????

RE: Motor/Head leak...shims...Took the head off and exposed combustion chamber and these 2 shims I keep reading about (see pic). Took one of the shims out, re-torqued, and the piston bottomed out and would not complete stroke at top. Put shim back in and works fine now. I THINK THE REMOVAL OF SHIMS IS A MISTAKE - I think the "head leak" should be remedied by re-torquing the head after a run (after it heats up)...now I need a miniature torque wrench

So add it up - weak clutch setup, head leaks, broken pull starters (3 now), leaky carb with slide problems, etc...forking out $219 for the OS .30 Motor and an additional $35 or so for the Mugen Aluminum 3 Shoe Clutch setup with the Ofna Hardened Bell is beginning to be more affordable yes??