Well, I put together the WH this weekend. Now it doesn't want to start. I'll have to pay another 50 dollars to get it tuned. No biggy but, it is 50 dollars I'd rather spend on some upgrades. If I knew how to tune it myself that would be great. So, this is were you guys come in LOL. Would someone mind telling me how to tune the WH? It constantly keeps flooding the engine. Before the transmission failure it used to turn on ASAP. I took the glow plug out & drained the fuel in the carburetor/exhaust & it floods on its own without me even turning the engine. I hope I'm making sense here. Any help is appreciated as always. Thanks in advance.

there is a clip on the fuel line that you are suppose to leave in the pinched position unless you are running it. Mine did the same thing, fuel just runs into the carb. And mine also flooded out bigtime the time couple times try ing to start it. Make sure the HS screw is 4 1/2 turns out from closed and the LS screw is 12-1/2 turns out. It will run, just be patient. Mine is a rocket now. Go theu 5 tanks of fuel and folow the break in procedure, in the instructions.

Cool sounds simple, I'll make sure to try your suggestion. Do I have to mess with the idle screw?

hey what's up i have a duraTrax evo and i am just wondering how fast do you think that it is

I'm new myself but, when it was actually running it looked like about 30 - 45 mph. Maybe I'm over exaggerating but, it was pretty fast to me.

Hey i am new also...
I picked up a warhead this last week off of a guy needind cash payed 50 for it.... the cluthes ane the 2 5x10mm bearing were out going to pick up some more tommorow. I saw that i can pick up the evo upgrade on ebay for 30 bucks... is it really worth it or is it just something that kinda helps but really isnt needed. Sorry for the stupid question. Thx for the carb help also really needed it.

You will find that the upgrade kit is not only a must but its very reasonable when you concider all you get with it. I think its worth having even if you have the evo just for parts and the cost of the kit. 24.95 tower hobbies.
My warhead while not being the fastest now is the most reliable smooth running truck I have out of four. Its the one I can hand a friend to drive with confidence even if they have little experience.

Good luck...Keester

Thank you umm it says on the manual that it needs a special tool to take the fly wheel off? Do you agree or disagree??

disagree, all you need is a good size pair of plier, channel locks or vise grips, then hold the flywhell with them, then take a socket that fits, i can't remember the size, remove the nut and gently tap the backside of the flywheel and it will pop off. then reverse the operation to install.

ok.. seems pretty easy this is my first rc truck that isnt out of walmart. i work on motors a lot but nothing this small just things like weedeaters and lawnmowers so any tips about this money pit that you could give me would be greatly appriciated!

I followed your suggestion and it turned on once. It felt sort of hot (I don't have the temp gauge) & I shut it off but, upon trying to restart it again it didn't do anything. I double checked the glow plug to check it it was working properly. I'll keep trying.

In my little experience I would say read & ask questions. I'm sure I have tons to learn but, it does get interesting as I go along. Good Luck Champ!

LOL thanks.....

No need for a temp gage. Once you got it up and running agian...bring it up to temp then shut it down. Get some spit on your finger and then drop the spit onto the cooling head. if it sizzles right off...to hot. If it just kinda makes a little noise at you your pretty good there and if it does nothing your runnin cold. This is the methoid I've used but i am no professional. I have pretty good luck with getting good milage out of an engine.

Dont be scared to lean that sucker out 1/8 a turn until you get it to start and stay running. I was like you when I first got into the nitro scene and didnt want to muck up the engine....trust me their pretty damn tuff. You wont mess it up running it hot a few times. Also when you get it up and running agian just make sure you have a nice trail of smoke coming out the pipe. Smoking coming out...good sign...no smoke..bad.

Make sure that the idle screw is set to where there is a 1/32" to 1/16" opening in the carb when you pull off the air filter and look in there. Should be a picture some where in the manual or go to duratrax.com

good luck...hopefully this made sense.

when i set it on the settings that the it says to the it wont idle it will run wide open and hald throttle all the way down to almost letting go ot the throttle but when i let go it will jus die.... any ideas????

No biggy. [sm=thumbs_up.gif]




[/quote]ORIGINAL: southernstang

No need for a temp gage. Once you got it up and running agian...bring it up to temp then shut it down. Get some spit on your finger and then drop the spit onto the cooling head. if it sizzles right off...to hot. If it just kinda makes a little noise at you your pretty good there and if it does nothing your runnin cold. This is the methoid I've used but i am no professional. I have pretty good luck with getting good milage out of an engine.



Dont be scared to lean that sucker out 1/8 a turn until you get it to start and stay running. I was like you when I first got into the nitro scene and didnt want to muck up the engine....trust me their pretty damn tuff. You wont mess it up running it hot a few times. Also when you get it up and running agian just make sure you have a nice trail of smoke coming out the pipe. Smoking coming out...good sign...no smoke..bad.



Make sure that the idle screw is set to where there is a 1/32" to 1/16" opening in the carb when you pull off the air filter and look in there. Should be a picture some where in the manual or go to duratrax.com



good luck...hopefully this made sense.

[/quote]

Cool, thanks for the tip there. As always I appreciate the responses. I'll get right back to it as soon as I get off work. Thanks again, I'll report back with my results.

I'm sure you have to tweak with the idle screw. It's found on the side of the carburetor (little black screw). Southernstang recommends the idle screw is set to where there is a 1/32" to 1/16" opening in the carb.

I'm going to give this a shot as well.

well i took a picture to ask you but i dont know how to put it on here so if u can tell me i will show you..

4-1/2 turns out is what they say to start with on a new engine. It's a really rich setting. When you start it, you will notice raw fuel spitting out the exhaust... but it will run. 12-1/2 turns out on the low speed screw. You may want to try bumping up the idle screw alittle to keep it running at first. This is a new motor you are talking about here right?

ok will you guys include pictures of what screws are what?? what it is the one where the fuel line goes in? and what about what the servo hooks to? and there is another one

[quote]ORIGINAL: Purerock Racing

4-1/2 turns out is what they say to start with on a new engine. It's a really rich setting. When you start it, you will notice raw fuel spitting out the exhaust... but it will run. 12-1/2 turns out on the low speed screw. You may want to try bumping up the idle screw alittle to keep it running at first. This is a new motor you are talking about here right?



Actually it is a used WH. The engine is by no means in new condition. Before the accident it ran perfectly. I will continue to attempt all suggestions. If I fail then I'll just take it in & pay $50.00 which I don't mind but, it's more fun when one learns how to do the work himself. Thanks bud.

Click on this site, http://manuals.hobbico.com/dtx/dtxd69-manual.pdf then go to page 7 of 24. There you should see High speed needle, Low speed needle & the Idle stop screw.

alright well i just ordered the evo upgrade for it so in a fw days when tower will deliver i will try it out and see if this truck will even move

Hey, I have a real quick question about the tuning settings, when you say 4 1/2 turns, are you referring to 4 half turns (2 full turns), or 4.5 turns?
I assume the LSN would follow the same guidelines.

Thanks

4-1/2 turns means, turn the HS screw in all the way till it seats (DO NOT OVER TIGTHEN IT), then back it out a full 4.5 turns. 1 turn = 360 degrees on your screwdriver. I figure out what position the slot in the screw is when it's fully seated, then you can easily figure out where 4-1/2 turns out will be