whitham69

Revo shock works well, I put a TT .18pro in mine, you need to cut the cooling head down alittle so it clears the brake servo.

nothinbetr2do

will this bike do wheelies and endoes( if i buy the front brake kit). or do i need to change somthing, thanks

whitham69

Not with the standered .12 in there. A larger motor or proper raced tuned .12 will pull wheelies, endoes only the superbikes can pull these as they weigh alot less.

SJN

Patrick, get yours here :

http://www.rc-motorradshop.de/

HerrSavage

What kind of top-speed can you expect bone-stock??

Thanks..

And thanks for the link SJN.. Still thinking about what I want.. Also considering a Traxxas Jato...

nothinbetr2do

whitham69 is this the engine your talking about ( http://www.thundertiger4u.com/pro18bx-p-7546.html ) if so how much more speed or proformance does it have? thanks

whitham69

That the one. the .12 that comes with the bike put out .6bhp the .18 is .9bhp. i bought it as it fairly cheap easy to tune as the engines in bikes need a bit more fineesing than car engines for some reason and the OWB/carb and socket attachment for rota starting (sorry not to sure what that called) is interchangable exaust gaskets and pipe will straight on np. the cooling fins need alittle triming around the servo i also had to remove most the bottom as well to fit my tank but you should not need to do that.It make a far bit faster( it was clocked at 68mph at brooklands but also drank the fuel, i needed to make a larger tank in order to finish a 7 min race and 2 min warm up we have here in the uk.Tank slapping became a problem but i put a small notch under the steering arm to get more rake angle A few fuzzy pic taken on the phone dueing a strip down before the nationals

nothinbetr2do

whitham69 thanks i think i'm going to try it. will it wheelie alot?

whitham69

It like pulling a wheelie on a real bike using the power. you need to know the speed of the bike and the thottle imput to to use. Beware pulling wheelies can damage the the rear of bike if it all goes wrong!!! i don't don't doing them because of this.

nothinbetr2do

is there somthing i could do to keep the front down, i like the bigger engine so it'll go faster

whitham69

i changed my thottle curve on my Tx, or you could put bigger clutch bell on. any modula one clutch bell will work

bikeracer

The front end coming up is always a problem once you use high grip rear tyres,I've got two bikes with Rossi TOP.12 engines and they both wheelie too easily,really need a 12t clutch bell but the cast ali ones disintegrate and 13t is a bit too much.
Bigger engines mean more wheelies with the resultant repairs.I run an OS.18 in one bike with a 15t clutch bell and I still have problems with wheelies.A harder rear tyre that spins rather than grips will help,also a softer rear suspension set up.

Wheelies are good for spectators,but they don't get the repair bills.

Allan

nothinbetr2do

hi again guys, this time i lost the spring that goes under the front body mount, what could i use to replace it. or should i just get a new one. also my bike is not turning real tight , it's just stock. could it be because of the spring. i did move back the crash bars, but not until after i noticed about the spring. to kill all the slop from not having the spring i tighten up the pivot screw for the front end. is the also the reason for the really wide turns. i dont know if it's supposed to be able to move(the front trees) on their own in and out while turning. i'm thinking it should because thats the way it came. so did i do wrong by tighten up the pivot screw and i this the cause of the really wide turns. thanks guys p.s. i was running it with out the body and rider, thought it should be off for break in. the front mounting post must of moved and released the spring. would not having them on cause the wide turns. thanks again

bikeracer

You need to fit a new spring,also fit some tight fitting silicone tube over it to stiffen it up before you fit it.The pivot bolt wants to be tight enough to eliminate any slop but still just loose enough to let the spring do its job.

If you want tighter turns, put the steering back to neutral once the bike's leaned over,use the throttle to control the radius of the turn.Holding the steering on like if you're driving a car will just make the front wash out.

Running without the bodywork on will break and bend the bike parts,the bodywork protects the rest of the bike.

Allan

nothinbetr2do

hi all, thanks for the steering tips!!!!! i was driving it nicely, through the hole break in process now my problem is that only after break in and maybe 4 tanks, that i needed to adjust my chain, so i start doing so, and i dicover i'm not getting smooth rotation of the back wheel. so after a while of messing with it, i take the back wheel off and bearing parts start falling in to my hand. so i take it all the way off, and find that it's been like that for a while. my rear hub has deep grooves in it, and the spacer as grooves in it also.the other bearing feels like it suffered becuase of the free bearing parts from the first one. inside the wheel. any way i called thundertiger, and i waited for like 2 hours on hold and finaly hung up.mine you this bike is only days old, what sould i do? maybe i'm going to call new ear models next, thats where my hobby store said they ordered it from. can somebody please help. i think i'm going to get stuck, the warranty say 60 days, so we'll see. also does any body know of a service center that i could talk to? thanks again guys

nothinbetr2do

well i finally got to talk to some one, so i told them what had happened. they are going to honor their warranty, and let me to just send them the rear tire. and thats good, i have to eat the cost of shipping it to them. so after i write them a letter and box it up, i'll be shipping it out. hopefully in a week or three i will be getting it back. i'll let you guys know about how i make out. also keep in mind this bike is only a few days old, has any body else had wheel bearing failure with their bikes? it just doesn't seem right, maybe it was just a bad one. we'll see. thanks again

nothinbetr2do

i was wondering if i could get someone to post a pic of the front brake set up, please just the stock version. thanks

nothinbetr2do

ok forget the pic, i got that together. but now i don't know how to hook up the brake line to the servo. the instructions are not that clear, so if someone could explain this to me i would be thankful

whitham69

I think Dez has sorted you out with the info you need, i would keep an eye on the 3 little lugs which locate the disk onto the wheel some times the disk might slip round locking the front wheel when they get worn with alittle use. If you thinking of get serious about the bikes i would think about the KP brakes

[link]http://www.moto-5.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?t=896[/link]

nothinbetr2do

yes he did thanks

nothinbetr2do

well i got my front brake installed, and thanks to you guys i learned about the disk coming off the hub and jamming up the front tire. some one showed me a pic of their fix, sorry i can't remember who or i would give you props. but anyway it was a wire off of the center bolt and went to the disk to stop it from moving to far off the hub. well i took that and made it lay acrossed the whole disk instead of one spot. i thought it would cause less damage to the disk. thanks for your help sorry i don't remember the one with the pic. anyway here's what i came up with, its the wire just under the caliper

whitham69

That good fix for the problem, Not sure why it was released like that im sure there test riders would of come across that peoblem when it was being tested.

How you finding running the thing?

nothinbetr2do

it's good whitham69 , when first put it on it was rubbing while going straight but would stop when turning left. so i gave it some more space and it only rubs alittle when turning right. the one i seen only had the wire to one spot, so i thought it would wear out that spot on the disk, thats why i made it cover the the whole disk. . i just did it so i don't know how it will hold up, i'll have to let you know.

nothinbetr2do

on some good advice from someone on rcgroups.com i moved the wire forward. it made sence after i thought about it. there is the caliper holding it in the back and nothing in the front. this never crossed my mine when first done, i'm glad i was told to move it

whitham69

There alot of little tips that make the bike handle and perform better. have added some washer to the top of the forks to get more ground clearance and better lean angles? Also adding some grease into the sliders on the front forks will give soem better damping and stop the front end from pattering